A is for Apple: An Encyclopaedia of Food & Drink

Allie, Neil and Sam have been on the road. We recorded our first live podcast at the Ludlow Food Festival in September 2026 where we discussed what foods you need for a fabulous feast in a castle. We discuss magnificent pies and spectacular sugar sculptures in our usual tongue in cheek manner.

Useful Links

Read more about Neil’s experience of cooking a Yorkshire Christmas Pie. You’ll find Part 1 here and Part 2 here

You can find some examples of elaborate sugar work on Ivan Day’s website.

Ludlow Castle

Ludlow Food Festival

Netherton Foundry

Listen to Neil and Sam’s podcast on Tripe

Further Reading

Forme of Cury

French cookery: comprising L'art de la cuisine francaise, Le patissier royal, Le cuisinier parisienby Marie-Antoine Carême (1836)

The Women in White by Wilkie Collins (1860)

The Art of Cookery, Made Plain and Easy by Hannah Glasse (1747)

The Accomplisht Cook - Robert May (1660/1685)

Rebecca by Daphne du Maurier (1938)

You can follow the A is for Apple Podcast on Instagram and Bluesky

Sam Bilton also hosts the award winning Comfortably Hungry Podcast and is the author of First Catch Your Gingerbread, Fool’s Gold: A History of British Saffron The Philosophy of Chocolate and Much Ado About Cooking: Delicious Shakesperean Feasts for Every Occasion(written in collaboration with Shakespeare’s Globe). You can find her on Instagram and Bluesky

Hello and welcome to a little bonus minisode all about this year’s Serve it Forth Food History Festival 2026, which is online and on Saturday 17 October 2026.

The team, made up of the A is for Apple crew - Sam Bilton, Alessandra Pino and Neil Buttery - plus The Delicious Legacy's Thomas Ntinas, go through the day’s sessions to whet your appetite before the big day.

This episode also includes an interview by Sam Bilton with Kevin Booth of English Heritage ahead of her session on the Bayeux Tapestry, all about the skeleton and facial reconstruction of Conquest Man.

We can’t wait to see you there!

Serve it Forth website: https://serveitforthfest.wixsite.com/info

The Bill of Fare: https://serveitforthfest.wixsite.com/info/bill-of-fare

Serve it Forth Tickets (£12 + booking fee): https://www.eventbrite.com/e/serve-it-forth-food-history-festival-2026-tickets-1992224789976?aff=oddtdtcreator

More on Conquest Man: https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/about/search-news/310826-conquest-man/

It’s a Listener Choice special as the team tackle three very different culinary favourites. Sam champions custard in all its forms, from medieval recipes to modern puddings. Allie investigates the mischievous history of Sicily’s “Chancellor’s Buttocks” pastry. And Neil celebrates the crumpet, exploring the history of those hole-filled griddle cakes that have become a staple of the British tea table.

Sources/ Useful links

Custard

• There’s a very good overview of custard by Neil on thehttps://britishfoodhistory.com/2012/02/18/custard/British Food History Podcast website along with ahttps://britishfoodhistory.com/2012/03/02/proper-custard/recipe for proper custard.
• The history ofhttps://www.birdscustard.co.uk/our-story/Birds Custard
• How to make pastry cream (Crème pâtissière)
• Two Fifteenth Century Cookbooks by Thomas Austin (1888)
• Cooking and Dining in Medieval England by Peter Brears (2012)
• Dumas on Food (Translated by Alan and Jane Davidson) by Alexandre Dumas (1979)
• A Room of One’s Own by Virginia Woolf (1935)
• The Tale of the Custard Dragon by Ogden Nash (1936) - a cute poem about a cowardly dragon called custard.
• Laurel and Hardy - The Battle of the Century (1927) - The Pie Fight
• Dr Who ‘Fish Fingers and Custard’ onhttps://youtu.be/Oo2RKAHu-kI?si=yj37h2cc16Mm1O6OYouTube
• Rhubarb and Custard (the 1970s cartoon) onhttps://youtu.be/9RSaqZR9Ajk?si=gtWUPFlh3X0YqrUbYouTube
• Custard Pie song by Led Zeppelin
• Byron’s letters, including references to custard and other food-related observations, can be accessed via Peter Cochran’s edition of Byron’s Correspondence.
• Allie’s talk on Byron and baked rosewater custards, hosted with Sam Hirst, is available here.

Chancellor’s Buttocks

• Simeti, M.T. (1989) Pomp and Sustenance: Twenty-Five Centuries of Sicilian Food.
• "Palermo's Secret Dessert Scene" (Saveur) – an introduction to Palermo's historic pastry culture, includingfedde del cancelliere(Chancellor's Buttocks).
• Cavalli, Rita, “Fedde del monastero, il dolce delle monache di Palermo che si prendevano gioco del fondoschiena del Primo Ministro”, FIRSTonline (17 February 2024):FIRSTonline article on the Fedde del Cancelliere and Palermo's convent confectionery traditions

Crumpets

• Neil’s crumpets recipe fromBritish Food: A History
• Neil’s muffins recipe with table of crumpet-muffin recipes showing the fluidity between the two
• Knead to Know: A History of Bakingby Neil Buttery (2024)
• English Bread & Yeast Cookeryby Elizabeth David (1977)
• The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easyby Hannah Glasse (1747)
• Crumpets with Potted Shrimps on Foodism
• Want to make the dripping crumpets of Rebecca? Pre-order Allie's A Gothic Cookbook, out this October, published by The History Press.

Don’t forget Allie will be exploring food and feasting in the works of the Brontë sisters and other classic gothic writers at an in-person event at the Brontë Parsonage Museum on 18 July 2026.

Allie will also be presenting an online talk on Gothic feastswith Morbid Anatomy on 26 October 2026.

Join Sam, Neil and Allie in person for a live recording of A is for Apple at Ludlow Food Festivalon 11 September 2026.

Allie will be appearing at theBury St Edmunds Literature Festival on 11 October 2026, where she will be in conversation with author Kate Young.

The Serve It Forth Food History Festivalreturns online on 18 October 2026. Keep an eye on social media for further announcements.

This is the final episode of Season C of A is for Apple. Thank you to everyone who listened, shared episodes, and sent in suggestions for our Listener Choice special.

We look forward to welcoming you back for Season D. Until then, happy cooking, happy reading, and thank you for joining us on this alphabetical adventure through food and drink culture.

The team return to the theme of vegetables for this episode. Neil champions the much maligned cabbage which he calls the ‘dog of vegetables’. Sam expresses her beef with celery and why it needs a lot of help from its friends to make it more palatable. And Allie delves into the anthropomorphic qualities of cauliflower.

Sources/Useful Links

Cabbage

• Jane Grigson’s Vegetable Book (1978)
• A Nievve Herbale, or Historie of Plantes by Dodoens (translated by Henry Lyte; 1578)
• Regula Ysewijn’s Cabbage Pudding on CKBK

Celery

• ‘Herbs in History: Celery’ on the American Herbal Products Association
• Apiaceae description on Britannica
• How to Grow Celery by RHS
• ‘Ancient Greek Funerals Were Decked Out in Celery’ on Atlas Obscura

Cauliflower

• The People of 1381The website of an innovative new research project set to produce the most comprehensive interpretation of the Peasants’ Revolt to date.
• Opera dell’arte del cucinare. Bartolomeo Scappi (1570)
• The Art Of CookeryHannah Glasse (1747)
• A Cauliflower in Her Hair (1944) by Shirley Jackson
• Mark Twain on cauliflower in The Tragedy of Pudd’nhead Wilson (1894)
• Roasted cauliflower steaks BBC Goodfood recipe

Don’t forget…

Sam will be discussing food in Shakespeare with Will Tosh, Sheila T Cavanagh and the actor Sir Simon Russell Beale at the British Library on Saturday, 13 June 2026.

Allie will be digging into food themes and motifs in a series of classic and contemporary gothic novels from the 19th century to the present day at the Brontë Parsonage Museum on 18 July 2026.

Coming up next is our Listener’s Choice episode. Which culinary C’s did we miss?

As promised in the last episode of A is for Apple, here is the full interview with Tom Tibbits and Lydia Crimp of Artistraw Cidery and Orchard in Herefordshire.

Lydia and Tom go to great efforts to make a natural cider and perry using fruit from their own orchards, fermented the natural way without pitching any yeast.

You can find out more about Artistraw on their website http://www.artistraw.co.uk, where you can also sign up to their newsletter, or follow them on Twitter, Instagram and Bluesky @artistrawcider.

Today, we talk about the basic process of natural cider making, and how it is both an art and a science, what makes a good cider apple, terroir, and the folklore associated with cidermaking.

I’ll be back in a week with Alessandra Pino and Sam Bilton with the next regular episode of A is for Apple.

See Artistraw on BBC Countryfile: https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/m002kw2w

Don’t forget to email us at aisforapplepod@gmail.com or tag us onhttps://www.instagram.com/aisforapplepod_/Instagram orhttps://bsky.app/profile/aisforapplepod.bsky.socialBlueSky if you have any suggestions for future episodes.

You can follow the A is for Apple Podcast onhttps://www.instagram.com/aisforapplepod_/Instagram andhttps://bsky.app/profile/aisforapplepod.bsky.socialBluesky

Sam Bilton also hosts the award winninghttps://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/comfortably-hungry/id1652356197Comfortably Hungry Podcast and is the author ofhttps://prospectbooks.co.uk/products-page/current-titles/first-catch-your-gingerbread-by-sam-bilton-2/First Catch Your Gingerbread,https://prospectbooks.co.uk/products-page/current-titles/2022-fools-gold-a-history-of-british-saffron-by-sam-bilton/Fool’s Gold: A History of British Saffronhttps://shop.bl.uk/collections/the-philosophy-of/products/the-philosophy-of-chocolateThe Philosophy of Chocolate andhttps://uk.bookshop.org/a/16372/9781035427680Much Ado About Cooking: Delicious Shakespearean Feasts for Every Occasion (written in collaboration with Shakespeare’s Globe). You can find her onhttps://www.instagram.com/mrssbilton/Instagram andhttps://bsky.app/profile/mrssbilton.bsky.socialBluesky

Dr Neil Buttery also hosts thehttps://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/the-british-food-history-podcast/id1577849126British Food History Podcast and is the author ofhttps://www.pen-and-sword.co.uk/A-Dark-History-of-Chocolate-Hardback/p/19247A Dark History of Sugar,https://www.pen-and-sword.co.uk/Before-Mrs-Beeton-Hardback/p/22437Before Mrs Beeton: Elizabeth Raffald Britain’s Most Influential Housekeeper as well ashttps://www.iconbooks.com/ib-title/knead-to-know/Knead to Know: A History of Baking andhttps://shop.bl.uk/collections/the-philosophy-of/products/the-philosophy-of-puddingsThe Philosophy of Pudding with another book in progress. You can find him onhttps://www.instagram.com/dr_neil_buttery/Instagram andhttps://bsky.app/profile/neilbuttery.bsky.socialBluesky

Dr Allie Pino produces and hosts thehttps://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/a-curious-appetite-with-dr-alessandra-pino/id1879857025Curious Appetite Podcast and thehttps://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/fear-feasts-food-in-horror/id1672786626Fear Feasts Podcast with Vanessa Baca. She is also the co-author ofhttps://unbound.com/books/a-gothic-cookbookA Gothic Cookbook and is currently working on a new book. You can find her onhttps://www.instagram.com/dr_alessandra_pino/Instagram andhttps://bsky.app/profile/alessandrapino.bsky.socialBluesky

Drink is the theme for this episode! Sam explores the (reputedly) perfect beverage to drink while giving birth. Neil chats to Tom and Lydia from Artistraw who make natural cider and perry. And Allie reveals there is a whole lot more to a cappuccino than a frothy top.

You can listen to the latest episode here or wherever you get your podcasts.

This is the penultimate episode before our Listener’s Choice finale so don’t forget to send us your suggestions for the culinary ‘C’s that we’ve overlooked and tell us why we should cover them!

Sources/Useful Links

Early modern stuffed carrots video (from around 29 mins 10 secs)

Sam’s cameline sauce post on Substack

Caudle

• Forme of Cury (1390) also don’t forget to check out Jennie Hood’s Substack, Medieval Food with Jennie
• Giving Birth in Eighteenth Century England by Sarah Fox (2022)
• Mrs Caudle’s Curtain Lectures by Douglas Jerrold (1866)
• A New System of Domestic Cookery by Maria Rundell (1806)
• Liquid Nourishment: Potable Foods and Stimulating Drinks edited by C. Anne Wilson (1993)

Cider

• Artistraw website
• Follow Artistraw on Instagram @artistrawcider
• Why is it that some pubs won’t serve ‘snakebite’?
• Cider Planetby Claude Jolicoeur (2022)

Cappuccino

• Purity and Danger by Mary Douglas (1966)
• “Deciphering a Meal” by Mary Douglas, in Implicit Meanings (1975)
• Distinction: A Social Critique of the Judgement of Taste by Pierre Bourdieu (1979)
• “Toward a Psychosociology of Contemporary Food Consumption” by Roland Barthes, in Food and Culture: A Reader edited by Carole Counihan and Penny Van Esterik
• The Rituals of Dinner: The Origins, Evolution, Eccentricities and Meaning of Table Manners by Margaret Visser (1991)
• Food Is Culture by Massimo Montanari (2006)
• Italian Identity in the Kitchen, or Food and the Nation by Massimo Montanari (2013)
• Coffee: A Global History by Jonathan Morris (2018)
• Espresso Coffee: The Science of Quality edited by Andrea Illy and Rinantonio Viani (2005)

Don’t forget to email us at aisforapplepod@gmail.com or tag us onhttps://www.instagram.com/aisforapplepod_/Instagram orhttps://bsky.app/profile/aisforapplepod.bsky.socialBlueSky if you have any suggestions for future episodes.

You can follow the A is for Apple Podcast onhttps://www.instagram.com/aisforapplepod_/Instagram andhttps://bsky.app/profile/aisforapplepod.bsky.socialBluesky

Sam Bilton also hosts the award winninghttps://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/comfortably-hungry/id1652356197Comfortably Hungry Podcast and is the author ofhttps://prospectbooks.co.uk/products-page/current-titles/first-catch-your-gingerbread-by-sam-bilton-2/First Catch Your Gingerbread,https://prospectbooks.co.uk/products-page/current-titles/2022-fools-gold-a-history-of-british-saffron-by-sam-bilton/Fool’s Gold: A History of British Saffronhttps://shop.bl.uk/collections/the-philosophy-of/products/the-philosophy-of-chocolateThe Philosophy of Chocolate andhttps://uk.bookshop.org/a/16372/9781035427680Much Ado About Cooking: Delicious Shakespearean Feasts for Every Occasion (written in collaboration with Shakespeare’s Globe). You can find her onhttps://www.instagram.com/mrssbilton/Instagram andhttps://bsky.app/profile/mrssbilton.bsky.socialBluesky

Dr Neil Buttery also hosts thehttps://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/the-british-food-history-podcast/id1577849126British Food History Podcast and is the author ofhttps://www.pen-and-sword.co.uk/A-Dark-History-of-Chocolate-Hardback/p/19247A Dark History of Sugar,https://www.pen-and-sword.co.uk/Before-Mrs-Beeton-Hardback/p/22437Before Mrs Beeton: Elizabeth Raffald Britain’s Most Influential Housekeeper as well ashttps://www.iconbooks.com/ib-title/knead-to-know/Knead to Know: A History of Baking andhttps://shop.bl.uk/collections/the-philosophy-of/products/the-philosophy-of-puddingsThe Philosophy of Pudding with another book in progress. You can find him onhttps://www.instagram.com/dr_neil_buttery/Instagram andhttps://bsky.app/profile/neilbuttery.bsky.socialBluesky

Dr Allie Pino produces and hosts thehttps://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/a-curious-appetite-with-dr-alessandra-pino/id1879857025Curious Appetite Podcast and thehttps://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/fear-feasts-food-in-horror/id1672786626Fear Feasts Podcast with Vanessa Baca. She is also the co-author ofhttps://unbound.com/books/a-gothic-cookbookA Gothic Cookbook and is currently working on a new book. You can find her onhttps://www.instagram.com/dr_alessandra_pino/Instagram andhttps://bsky.app/profile/alessandrapino.bsky.socialBluesky

C is for Caraway, Curry & Cinnamon

In this episode of A is for Apple, we turn to aromatics and ask what these ingredients carry with them beyond flavour.

From the binding qualities of caraway in early modern folklore to the layered histories of curry and its place in Britain, and the enduring warmth of cinnamon, we explore how spices move, adapt, and settle. Along the way, we think about trade, migration, memory, and the ways in which taste is shaped over time.

And somewhere along the line… did we get a little carawayed?

What we discuss

Cinnamon

What is the difference between cinnamon and cassia, and does it matter?

Why is cinnamon so strongly associated with comfort and memory?

How has it been used historically, both in cooking and in medicine?

Curry

If one dish tells the story of Britain, is it chicken tikka masala?

Can food ever belong to one place once it starts to travel?

What do curry houses reveal about adaptation and taste?

Is “authenticity” a useful concept, or does it obscure more than it reveals?

We also draw on insights from Allie’s previous conversation with Mallika Basu on A Curious Appetite with Dr Alessandra Pino, her new podcast, particularly around migration, flavour, and the politics of naming.

Caraway

From comfits to cupboards, how has caraway been used in cooking?

Why was it once believed to prevent loss, theft, or even wandering lovers?

What does this tell us about the symbolic life of everyday ingredients?

Useful links amd further reading

Caraway

Anderson, I. (2023). The History and Natural History of Spices: The 5,000 Year Search for Flavour. The History Press.

Brears, P. (2012). Cooking & Dining in Medieval England. Prospect Books.

Davidson, A. (1999). The Oxford Companion to Food. Oxford University Press.

Hieatt, C. B., & Butler, S. (1985). Curye on Inglysch: English culinary manuscripts of the fourteenth century. Oxford University Press.

Mason, L. (1988). Sugar-Plums and Sherbert: The Prehistory of Sweets. Prospect Books.

Curry

Collingham, Lizzie. Curry: A Tale of Cooks and Conquerors. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2006.

Dickson Wright, Clarissa. A History of English Food. London: Random House, 2011.

Glasse, Hannah. The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy. 1803.

Huxley, Aldous. Jesting Pilate. 1926.

Panayi, Panikos. Migrant City: A New History of London. 2020.

Panayi, Panikos. Spicing Up Britain. 1995.

Sukhadwala, Sejal. The Philosophy of Curry. 2023.

https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/empire-world-history/id1639561921Empire Podcasthttps://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/empire-world-history/id1639561921– “Inventing Curry: The British Taste for India”

Cinnamon

https://www.britannica.com/plant/cinnamon

How cinnamon is harvested:

https://youtube.com/shorts/4LINdKpRmpM?si=dYt_TS0Ny9KqJQo-

https://youtu.be/fNguphwF_hI?si=1jS0qWsyseRQGVFR

Get in touch

If there’s something you’d like us to think with, a food, a memory, a question, do write in. We’d love to hear what you’re curious about.

You can get in touch with us via Bluesky @AisforApplepod. You can also Tweet us at A is for Apple Pod and we’re on Instagram at A is for Apple Pod_ and you can find a group dedicated to the podcast on Facebook. Or you can email us at 📩aisforapplepod@gmail.com.

Things get wet and wild in this episode as the team explore fish and seafood. Allie explores the world of caviar, bumps and all. Sam introduces the gang to cockle bread and Neil asks whether there is any real point to cod?

Don’t forget to email us at aisforapplepod@gmail.com or tag us on Instagram or BlueSky if you have any suggestions for future episodes. You may also want to subscribe to the A is for Apple Substack where we publish recipes and extra audio content.

Sources/Useful Links

Cockles

• North Atlantic Seafood by Alan Davidson (1980)
• First Catch Your Peacock: The Classical Guide to Welsh Food by Bobby Freeman (1996)
• In Search of Wales by H. V. Morton (1944)
• Domestic Life in Wales by S. Minwel Tibbott (2002)
• Welsh Fare by S. Minwel Tibbott
• Cockle gathering at Penclawdd in the 1930s onYouTube
• Remembering the Cockle Women
• Marine Stewardship Council information on cockles

Caviar

• Inga Saffron, Caviar: The Strange History and Uncertain Future of the World’s Most Coveted Delicacy (2002) –https://archive.org/details/caviarstrangehis00saff
• IUCN Red List – Sturgeon (Acipenseridae) species accounts –
• https://www.iucnredlist.org
• World Sturgeon Conservation Society – https://www.wscs.info
• NOAA Fisheries – Sturgeon species overview – https://www.fisheries.noaa.gov
• Adam Olearius, The Voyages and Travels of the Ambassadors (1647) –https://archive.org/details/voyagestravellso00olea
• Jonas Hanway, An Historical Account of the British Trade over the Caspian Sea (1753) –https://archive.org/details/in.ernet.dli.2015.31214
• John Perry, The State of Russia under the Present Czar (1716) –https://archive.org/details/bim_eighteenth-century_the-state-of-russia-und_perry-john_1716
• Cavi-Art (official site) – https://caviart.com/
• Daniel Pauly et al., “Fishing Down Marine Food Webs,” Science (1998) –https://www.science.org/doi/10.1126/science.279.5352.860
• Stanley Tucci eats caviar:https://fb.watch/FA1F4UtvRf/
• What is a Caviar Bump?

Cod

• English Seafood Cookery by Rick Stein (1988)
• Jane Grigson’s Fish Book (1986)
• The River Cottage Fish Book by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and Nick Fisher (2007)
• French Provincial Cookery by Elizabeth David (1960)

You can follow the A is for Apple Podcast on Instagram and Bluesky

Sam Bilton also hosts the award winning Comfortably Hungry Podcast and is the author of First Catch Your Gingerbread, Fool’s Gold: A History of British Saffron The Philosophy of Chocolate and Much Ado About Cooking: Delicious Shakesperean Feasts for Every Occasion(written in collaboration with Shakespeare’s Globe). You can find her on Instagram and Bluesky

Dr Neil Buttery also hosts the British Food History Podcast and is the author of A Dark History of Sugar, Before Mrs Beeton: Elizabeth Raffald Britain’s Most Influential Housekeeper as well as Knead to Know: A History of Baking and The Philosophy of Pudding with another book in progress. You can find him on Instagram and Bluesky

Dr Allie Pino produces and hosts the Curious Appetite Podcast and the Fear Feasts Podcast with Vanessa Baca. She is also the co-author of A Gothic Cookbook and is currently working on a new book. You can find her on Instagram and Bluesky

Today’s theme is PEOPLE! Allie, Neil and Sam bring some guests with them to this episode (metaphorically speaking). One is renowned for her flamboyancy; another is an avid champion of fruit and veg and the last has a very large bone to pick with one of history’s most renowned cookbook authors. But can you guess who they are?

(Well of course you can because their names are in the title, but indulge us by playing along!)

Don’t forget to email us at aisforapplepod@gmail.com or tag us on Instagram or BlueSky if you have any suggestions for future episodes. You may also want to subscribe to the A is for Apple Substack where we publish recipes and extra audio content.

Sources/Useful Links

Fanny Cradock

• Fear of Fanny - BBC 2006
• Keep Calm and Fanny On! By Kevin Geddes
• British Food History Podcast Episode
• Fanny Cradock with Kevin Geddes - The British Food History Podcast
• Gwen Troake and Fanny Cradock (1976)
• Fanny Cradock Cooks for Christmas (1975) | BBC

Ann Cook

• Professed Cookeryby Ann Cook
• A Cook’s PerspectivebyClarissa F. Dillon & Deborah J. Peterson
• The Art of Cookery Made Plain & Easyby Hannah Glasse
• Book review of A. Cook’s Perspective by Neil onBritish Food: a History
• Neil’s disastrous attempt at cooking Hannah Glasse’s Christmas Pie onNeil Cooks Grigson
• Before Mrs Beeton: Elizabeth Raffald, England’s Most Influential Housekeeperby Neil Buttery
• Ivan Day’s 22-stone Yorkshire Christmas Pye

Giacomo Castelvetro

• The Fruit, Herbs & Vegetables of Italy by Giacomo Castelvetro (1614)
• Profitable insructions [sic] for the manuring, sowing, and planting of kitchin gardens Very profitable for the common wealth and greatly for the helpe and comfort of poore people. Gathered by Richard Gardiner of Shrewsberie. (1603)

You can follow the A is for Apple Podcast on Instagram and Bluesky

Sam Bilton also hosts the award winning Comfortably Hungry Podcast and is the author of First Catch Your Gingerbread, Fool’s Gold: A History of British Saffron The Philosophy of Chocolate and Much Ado About Cooking: Delicious Shakesperean Feasts for Every Occasion(written in collaboration with Shakespeare’s Globe). You can find her on Instagram and Bluesky

Dr Neil Buttery also hosts the British Food History Podcast and is the author of A Dark History of Sugar, Before Mrs Beeton: Elizabeth Raffald Britain’s Most Influential Housekeeper as well as Knead to Know: A History of Baking and The Philosophy of Pudding with another book in progress. You can find him on Instagram and Bluesky

Dr Allie Pino produces and hosts the Curious Appetite Podcast and the Fear Feasts Podcast with Vanessa Baca. She is also the co-author of A Gothic Cookbook and is currently working on a new book. You can find her on Instagram and Bluesky

Sam Bilton Allie Pino and Neil Buttery are back with a brand new season exploring the culinary alphabet. This time it’s the letter ‘C’. In the first episode of this season our team had free reign to explore whatever took their fancy.

Sam opens with carbonado, diving into its rich history and cultural associations. Allie follows with carrots, exploring their meanings, myths, and surprising journeys through food history. Neil brings things to a close with cabinet pudding, a comforting and curious dish that rounds the conversation off rather nicely.

Don’t forget to email us at aisforapplepod@gmail.com or tag us on Instagram or BlueSky if you have any suggestions for future episodes. You may also want to subscribe to the A is for Apple Substack where we publish recipes and extra audio content.

Sources/Useful Links

Carbonado

• Modern Cookery for Private Families - Eliza Acton (1845)
• Cooking and Dining in Tudor and Early Stuart England by Peter Brears (2015)
• Mots de table, mots de bouche: dictionnaire étymologique et historique du vocabulaire classique de la cuisine et de la gastronomie by Claudine Brécourt-Villars (1996)
• Kettner’s Book of the Table - E. S. Dallas (1877)
• Gargantua And His Son Pantagruel by Rabelais (1534)

Carrot

• Vegetable Gardening the Colonial Williamsburg Way: 18th-Century Methods for Today’s Organic Gardeners - Wesley Greene (2012)
• Do carrots help you see in the dark? - Dr Emma Davies BBC Science Focus Magazine (2026)
• Step by Step. London: Thornton Butterworth - Churchill, W. S. (1939)
• Originally published as a collection of Churchill’s newspaper articles and speeches from the late 1930s, including his commentary on Nazi Germany and the use of reward and punishment, encapsulated in his metaphor of “the carrot and the stick.”
• Good Things - Jane Grigson (2006)
• The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy - Hannah Glasse (1747) Recipe: To Make a Carrot Pudding
• An Anonymous Andalusian Cookbook of the 13th Century Translated by Charles Perry et alRecipe: Carrot Paste

Cabinet pudding

• Neil’s Cabinet pudding recipe
• The Philosophy of Puddings by Neil Buttery (2024)
• The Pudding Book by Helen Thomas (1980)
• Pride and Pudding by Regula Ysewijn (2015)
• Eleanor Fettiplace’s Receipt Book by Hilary Spurling - my Lord Devonshire’s Pudding (1986)
• Neil’s Spotted Dick recipe from his blog
• Neil’s How to Steam a Pudding post on his blog
• Neil on the BBC Travel Show talking about the history of puddings and sugar (UK only)

Welcome to Episode 7 of Season B. This is a Listener’s Choice ep, and things get hot, messy and monstrous as Sam, Neil and Alessandra look at Boiling, Bloody Mary and bay leaves.

Things mentioned in this episode

Sam Bilton wins at the Fortum & Mason Awards

Museum of Royal Worcester project wins at the British Library Food Season Awards

Sam’s black pudding episode on Comfortably Hungry

Neil is appearing at the Chalke Festival on 27 June

Follow Serve it Forth History Festival 18 October on Instagram @serveitforthfest

Links & Further Reading

Boiling

Acton, E. (1845). Modern Cookery For Private Families. Quadrille.

Beeton, I. (1861). The Book of Household Management. Lightning Source.

Davidson, A. (1999). The Oxford Companion to Food. Oxford University Press.

Grigson, J. (1992). English Food (Third Edit). Penguin.

McGee, H. (1984). On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen (1st ed.). Allen and Unwin.

Smith, D. (1998). Delia’s How to Cook Book 1. BBC Books.

Bayleaf:

Culpeper’s Herbal (I’ll find a link late)

What Is a Bay Leaf, Exactly? – Atlas Obscura https://www.atlasobscura.com/articles/what-is-a-bay-leaf

Pliny Natural History iv: Books 12-16 https://archive.org/details/L370PlinyNaturalHistoryIV1216/page/n391/mode/2up?q=laurel

Ovid Metamorphosis https://www.gutenberg.org/files/21765/21765-h/21765-h.htm

Bloody Mary:

Why Is There an Entire Fried Chicken on My Bloody Mary?: An exploration of outrageous garnishes and the drink’s over-the-top evolution. The Spruce Eats

The Tomato in America by Andrew F. Smith (1994): A rich history of the tomato- from suspicion to Bloody Mary staple. Essential reading for any cocktail historian.

James Bond’s Other Drink: Long before Vesper, Bond was sipping Bloody Marys- shaken, not stirred, of course.Bormioli Luigi

Bloody Mina Gothtail: A Gothic twist on the classic- dark, dramatic, and dangerously drinkable.Instagram Recipe

Welcome to this bonus episode of A is for Apple: An Encyclopaedia of Food & Drink.

Last episode the theme was Meat, and as usual, the three of us nattered away for a bit too long and some of our conversation was edited out for time. One of these things was the part of Neil’s section on brains and the BSE crisis.

We’re busy behind the scenes getting the listener's choice episode ready for you, but hopefully this little snackette will keep you going.

You can follow the A is for Apple Podcast on Instagram and Bluesky

Sam Bilton also hosts the Comfortably Hungry Podcast and is the author of First Catch Your Gingerbread, Fool’s Gold: A History of British Saffron and The Philosophy of Chocolate. You can find her on Instagram and Bluesky

Dr Neil Buttery also hosts the British Food History Podcast and is the author of A Dark History of Sugar, Before Mrs Beeton: Elizabeth Raffald Britain’s Most Influential Housekeeper as well as Knead to Know: A History of Baking and The Philosophy of Pudding. You can find him on Instagram and Bluesky

Dr Allie Pino hosts the Fear Feasts Podcast with Vanessa Baca and is the co-author of A Gothic Cookbook. You can find her on Instagram and Bluesky

Welcome to Episode 6 of Season B. The theme is ‘Meat’ and Sam, Neil and Alessandra get beefy with three choice nuggets of fleshy goodness, looking at Beef Wellington, Brains and Bovril. Don’t get the meat sweats!

Don’t forget the next episode is the Listeners’ Choice. Please send your suggestions (with a reason why you’ve chosen it) to aisofrapplepod@gmail.com. Your deadline is 21st May!

Links & Further Reading

• Did Sam win the awards for Best Audio at the Fortnum & Mason Awards?
• Allie will be taking part in the online conference an ONLINE conference on 23rd and 24th August 2025 marking the 100th anniversary of MR James A Warning to the Curious and Other Ghost Stories talking about food and the supernatural: https://romancingthegothic.com/2025/01/06/cfp-for-a-warning-to-the-curious-ghostly-supernatural-and-weird-tales/
• Follow Serve it Forth history festival on Instagram @serveitforthfest
• The Leeds Symposium of Food History and Traditions facebook page

Beef Wellington

• Manuale de cuoco e del pasticciere III by Vincenzo Agnoletti (1834) (Italian)
• Paddington Takes The Testby Michael Bond (1999)
• Julia Child cooks beef wellington on The French Chef
• Betty Crocker’s Hostess Cookbook (1967)
• Irish Traditional Food by Theodora Fitzgibbon (1984)
• Fashionable food: seven decades of food fads by Sylvia Lovegren, (1995)
• The French Menu Cookbook by Richard Olney (1970)
• You can read more about the Waterloo banquets on the Apsley House and Wellington Arch blog here and here.
• Lines of Wellington trailer
• Read about how beef wellington was used as a murder weapon in Australia.

Brains

• English Food (Third Edition) by Jane Grigson (1992
• The Complete Nose to Tail: A Kind of British Cooking by Fergus Henderson (2012)
• Jane Grigson’s Brains in Black Butter recipe on Neil Cooks Grigson
• Good Food by Ambrose Heath (1932; contains brain and tongue pudding recipe)
• Neil’s blog post about cooking snipe with recipe

Bovril

• Vril: The Coming Raceby Edward Bulwer-Lytton (1871)
• Shackleton Bovril advert: http://www.tommyspackfillers.com/gallery/medpopup.php?imageNo=1085
• How the British empire spells Bovril: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O828155/how-the-british-empire-spells-print-dolman-ernest/
• My Bones and My Flute by Edgar Mittelholzer (1955)

You can follow the A is for Apple Podcast on Instagram and Bluesky

Sam Bilton also hosts the Comfortably Hungry Podcast and is the author of First Catch Your Gingerbread, Fool’s Gold: A History of British Saffron and The Philosophy of Chocolate. You can find her on Instagram and Bluesky

Dr Neil Buttery also hosts the British Food History Podcast and is the author of A Dark History of Sugar, Before Mrs Beeton: Elizabeth Raffald Britain’s Most Influential Housekeeper as well as Knead to Know: A History of Baking and The Philosophy of Pudding. You can find him on Instagram and Bluesky

Dr Allie Pino hosts the Fear Feasts Podcast with Vanessa Baca and is the co-author of A Gothic Cookbook. You can find her on Instagram and Bluesky

Welcome to this bonus episode of A is for Apple: An Encyclopaedia of Food & Drink.

Last episode had the blue theme, and Neil chose to look at blue cheese, in particular Stichelton, which is made on the beautiful Welbeck Estate in rural Nottinghamshire. Neil spoke to Joe Schneider, who makes this delicious, unique farmhouse cheese. Neil cut the interview down to 6 minutes or so, but here it is in full.

They talk about how one gets into farmhouse cheesemaking, the importance of consistency and the best places to buy Stichelton as well as many other things.

A big thank you to Thomas Ntinas for his sound engineering support.

Things mentioned in today’s episode:

Stichelton website

The Welbeck Estate

Welbeck Farm Shop

Neal’s Yard Dairy

Chorlton Cheesemongers

You can follow the A is for Apple Podcast on Instagram and Bluesky

Sam Bilton also hosts the Comfortably Hungry Podcast and is the author of First Catch Your Gingerbread, Fool’s Gold: A History of British Saffron and The Philosophy of Chocolate. You can find her on Instagram and Bluesky

Dr Neil Buttery also hosts the British Food History Podcast and is the author of A Dark History of Sugar, Before Mrs Beeton: Elizabeth Raffald Britain’s Most Influential Housekeeper as well as Knead to Know: A History of Baking and The Philosophy of Pudding. You can find him on Instagram and Bluesky

Dr Allie Pino hosts the Fear Feasts Podcast with Vanessa Baca and is the co-author of A Gothic Cookbook. You can find her on Instagram and Bluesky

In Episode 5 the intrepid team enter their blue period. Neil finds out how a unique blue cheese was resurrected from obscurity thanks to some mouldy leather. Allie explores the significance of blue corn to the Hopi in Arizona. And Sam explains why a blue flower was believed to lift the spirits (and also looks great in a glass of Pimms).

Useful Links and Further Reading:

Blue Cheese

• Stichelton Dairy
• Neal’s Yard Dairy
• Eau de Stilton
• Harold McGee, On Food & Cooking (1984)
• Val Cheke, The Story of Cheese-Making in Britain (1959)

Blue Corn

• Flour: A Comprehensive Guide by Christine McFadden, 2018
• Hopi Culture - https://itcaonline.com/member-tribes/hopi-tribe/
• The Corn Maiden in Hopi Tradition: https://blog.kachinahouse.com/the-corn-maiden-unveiling-the-harvest-and-fertility-symbolism-among-the-hopi/

Borage

• ‘Borage – A Star Of Nature’ on Stories From The Museum Floor , 25 August 2017
• Robert Tyas,The sentiment of flowers; or, Language of flora (1841)
• John Gerard, The Herbal, or a Generall historie of plantes(1636)
• Pliny, Natural Histories VII
• Anon, A Proper New Booke of Cookery (1575)

You can follow the A is for Apple Podcast on Instagram and Bluesky

Sam Bilton also hosts the Comfortably Hungry Podcast and is the author of First Catch Your Gingerbread, Fool’s Gold: A History of British Saffron and The Philosophy of Chocolate. You can find her on Instagram and Bluesky

Dr Neil Buttery also hosts the British Food History Podcast and is the author of A Dark History of Sugar, Before Mrs Beeton: Elizabeth Raffald Britain’s Most Influential Housekeeper as well as Knead to Know: A History of Baking and The Philosophy of Pudding. You can find him on Instagram and Bluesky

Dr Allie Pino hosts the Fear Feasts Podcast with Vanessa Baca and is the co-author of A Gothic Cookbook. You can find her on Instagram and Bluesky

Check out Thom's podcast The Delicious Legacy here:

https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/the-delicious-legacy/id1494707127

Watch Thom smoke pork and mutton over a charcoal fire like an ancient Greek:

https://youtu.be/u7JN1pl_JVs?si=k-j6dZGYVne_0zUa

The Odyssey by Homer:

https://www.gutenberg.org/files/1727/1727-h/1727-h.htm

In this bonus episode, Allie explores the rich tradition of barbacoa from Chef Edson Diaz-Fuentes' hometown, diving into its regional variations and the traditional pit-cooking techniques that define its deep, smoky flavours. They also discuss his journey through London’s dynamic food scene and how his three restaurants bring the heart of Mexican cuisine to the city.Ciudad de México: Recipes and Stories from the Heart of Mexico City by Edson Diaz Fuentes (2021)

Useful Links

• Ciudad de México: Recipes and Stories from the Heart of Mexico City by Edson Diaz Fuentes (2021)
• Edson and Natalie Feary have three restaurants in London- find out more here: https://www.santoremedio.co.uk/

Cooking is essentially a series of techniques. In Episode 4 Neil, Sam and Allie explore an ancient form of hearth cookery; find out why being called Béchamel could merit a kick in the posterior and get sizzling on the barbie. (No cakes or dolls were harmed in the making of this podcast 😉).

Useful Links

Neil’s recipes:

• https://britishfoodhistory.com/2012/02/21/pancake-day/
• https://britishfoodhistory.com/2020/12/03/to-make-crumpets/
• https://britishfoodhistory.com/2024/10/29/singin-hinnies/
• https://neilcooksgrigson.com/2015/07/13/411-brains-with-curry-and-grape-sauce/
• Delicious Legacy Podcast- A Short History of Barbecue
• Motherland Pig Episode:https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p07rsphm
• The Cook, the Thief, His Wife & Her Lover- Peter Greenaway (1989)
• Goodfellas BBQ Scene
• Saint Lawrence Patron Saint of Cooks
• First Catch Your Gingerbread - Sam Bilton (2020) Perkins recipe
• Mark Meltonville - https://www.meltonville.uk/
• The Culinary Triangle Claude Lévi-Strauss (1966)
• Sumario de la historia general de las indias - Gonzalo Fernández de Oviedo y Valdés (1526)
• A New Voyage Round the World - William Dampier(1697)
• Dictionary of the English Language - Samuel Johnson (1755)

Suggested Reading

• French cookery: comprising L'art de la cuisine francaise, Le patissier royal, Le cuisinier parisien - Marie Antoine Carême (1836 edition)
• Kettner’s Book of Table - E. S. Dallas (1877)
• English Bread and Yeast Cookery - Elizabeth David (1977)
• A Book of Bakestone Cookery - Bobby Freeman (1984)
• The Scots Kitchen: It’s Lore and Recipes - F Marian McNeill (1929)
• Cooked - Michael Pollan (2013)
• The Saucier’s Apprentice - Raymond Sokolov (1976)
• Le cuisinier françois - François Pierre de la Varenne (1651)
• Food & Cooking in Sixteenth-Century Britain: History and Recipes - Peter Brears (1985)

You can follow the A is for Apple Podcast on Instagram and Bluesky

Sam Bilton also hosts the Comfortably Hungry Podcast and is the author of First Catch Your Gingerbread, Fool’s Gold: A History of British Saffron and The Philosophy of Chocolate. You can find her on Instagram and Bluesky

Dr Neil Buttery also hosts the British Food History Podcast and is the author of A Dark History of Sugar, Before Mrs Beeton: Elizabeth Raffald Britain’s Most Influential Housekeeperas well as Knead to Know: A History of Baking and The Philosophy of Pudding. You can find him on Instagram and Bluesky

Dr Allie Pino hosts the Fear Feasts Podcast with Vanessa Baca and is the co-author of A Gothic Cookbook. You can find her on Instagram and Bluesky

In this bonus episode of A is for Apple, Allie looks into the unexpected Britishness of bagels, their nostalgic ties to celebrations, and even their royal connections.

In this episode:

• Discover how bagels earned a place in Good Housekeeping's 2024 best street party food list
• Learn about bagels' links to Queen Elizabeth’s Silver Jubilee and William and Kate's visit to Brick Lane's famous Beigel Bake
• Explore inventive modern bagel fillings, from peanut butter and strawberries to chicken katsu
• Hear from Debs Rinkoff of the iconic Rinkoff Bakery, who reveals their all-time best-selling bagel fillings - salmon and cream cheese, and salt beef with gherkins and mustard - and shares her thoughts on bagels' growing popularity

Please note: This episode was recorded on location at Rinkoff Bakery, so the audio may be less polished than usual, but the insights (and bagel talk) are well worth it.

We’d love to hear from you. Connect with us at:

Twitter: @aisforapplepod

Instagram: @aisforapplepod_

Email: aisforapplepod@gmail.com

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Enjoy this tasty bonus bite of food history!

In this episode of Season B, Sam, Neil and Ally focus on the world of baking. Sam cooks up some delicious (or not) baked beans, Neil considers the Bath bun and Ally dives into bagel culture.

Useful links, references and things mentioned in the episode:

Baked Beans

Beans: A History by Ken Albala (2007)

The Frugal Housewife by Lydia Maria Child (1829)

The Boston Cooking-School Cookbook by Fannie Merrit Farmer (1896) - (this is a link to the 1910 version)

The Truth about Baked Beans by Megan Muckenhoupt (2015)

America’s Founding Food: The Story of New England Cooking by Keith Stavely & Kathleen Fitzgerald (2004)

A shilling cookery for the people : embracing an entirely new system of plain cookery and domestic economy by Alexis Soyer (1854)

Britain’s obsession with baked beans

What’s For Tea, Mum? Beanz Meanz The Who!

Martha Stewart’s Boston Baked Beans

Bath Buns

English Bread & Yeast Cookery by Elizabeth David (1977)

English Food by Jane Grigson (3rd edition, 1992)

The Taste of Britain by Laura Mason and Catherine Brown (1999)

Neil’s recipe for seed cake

Neil’s recipe for wigs

Cobb’s Bath Buns recipe on Neil Cooks Grigson

The Bath Bun Teashoppe

Bagels

https://www.goodhousekeeping.com/uk/food/recipes/g43212153/street-party-food-ideas-recipes/

https://www.vice.com/en/article/these-black-bagels-are-the-anti-rainbow-bagel/

The Bagel: The Surprising History of a Modest Bread by Maria Balinska

https://fairmountbagel.com/bagels-in-space/

Prince William and Kate Make Bagels in East London: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nhhDQeLWMfY

https://www.hackneycitizen.co.uk/2014/06/17/curious-history-bagel/

https://www.thejc.com/lets-eat/bagels-can-change-your-perspective-on-history-by77e9sr

https://www.vice.com/en/article/these-black-bagels-are-the-anti-rainbow-bagel/

https://www.eastlondonlines.co.uk/2024/03/meet-the-trader-a-jewish-bakery-founded-by-a-ukranian-refugee-serving-the-local-muslim-community/