After Hours Skin Clinic

Would you put menstrual blood on your face if it made your skin glow? Should we all be Menstrual Masking? Or, is it actually causing more harm than good? Halloween is just around the corner, so in this episode Consultant Dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid explore the more unusual skincare practices. Stuff involving the use of human blood! What's the evidence? Should a Vampire Facial (PRP - Platelet Rich Plasma injections) be on your list this Halloween? ...They also cover the absolute non-negotiables for staying safe under the knife or the needle! Plus, in the spirit of spooky season, they look at DIY face mask ingredients like pumpkin, garlic, and eggs to ascertain whether they’re worth the effort - or not. SPOILER: one of them frequently causes contact allergies!

Key Questions Answered:

• Does applying menstrual blood to your face actually improve skin quality or glow? And what are the risks?
• Vampire facials: Do PRP injections live up to the hype or claims?
• What are the clinical infection risks of getting a blood-related procedure in an unregulated setting?
• Can household items like garlic, pumpkin or egg whites safely treat acne or tighten skin? Are the DIY Halloween themed skincare trends worth following?

Episode Highlights:

• The Menstrual Blood Mask Trend: Deconstructing why viral period blood skincare makes zero physiological sense and introduces severe bacterial risks.
• The 500 Dalton Rule: Why your skin’s natural barrier keeps large pathogens and proteins out.
• The Truth About Vampire Facials: How PRP (platelet-rich plasma) works, the "buffy layer" separation, and lessons from the Albuquerque clinic outbreak.
• Microneedling & Bloodletting Safety: Why sterile CQC-registered environments are non-negotiable for any procedure breaking the skin barrier.
• Lasers vs. Blood: How modern fractional and ablative lasers (like UltraClear) create intentional clinical micro-injuries compared to DIY methods.
• Kitchen Skincare Fails: Why garlic causes fingertip contact dermatitis and why pumpkin enzymes belong in cleansers, not raw DIY masks.

👇 Let us know your thoughts in the comments

💌 Send us your questions ahsc@raconteur.tv

Connect with us:

After Hours Skin Clinic Instagram: ⁠⁠@afterhoursskinclinic⁠⁠

Dr Ellie Rashid: ⁠⁠@drellierashid⁠⁠

Dr Emma Craythorne: ⁠⁠@dremmacraythorne⁠⁠

TikTok: ⁠⁠@afterhoursskinclinic⁠⁠

YouTube: ⁠⁠After Hours Skin Clinic Channel⁠⁠

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.

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Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid separate scientific fact from marketing fiction to reveal the top 5 lifestyle and environmental factors actively breaking down your skin's collagen scaffolding.

In this episode, Emma and Ellie examine how 95% of accelerated skin aging stems from UVA radiation, why perimenopausal hormone drops impact skin texture, and what sugar has to do with collagen loss. Plus, they explore the impact of urban air pollution (particulate matter) on pigmentation and share expert evidenced based ways to preserve and stimulate your collagen.

Episode Highlights:

• Collagen Anatomy 101: How fibroblast cells manufacture your skin's scaffolding.
• The #1 Collagen Killer (UVA & Infrared): Why cloud-cover UV rays degrade collagen and elastin long before your skin burns.
• The Smoking & Vaping Factor: Why plastic surgeons test for nicotine before surgery due to compromised wound healing and micro-vascular constrictions.
• Hormones, HRT & Menopause: Differentiating between systemic hormone replacement benefits and estrogen creams.
• The Sugar-Glycation Connection: How high blood sugar stiffens collagen and why topical "anti-glycation" creams fail to reach deep dermal layers.
• The Hidden Enemy (Air Pollution): How PM2.5 and PM10 soot particles trigger oxidative stress, collagen breakdown, and dark spot formation.
• The ultimate collagen defense strategy.

Key Questions Answered:

• What are the top 5 things that destroy skin collagen?
• Do topical estrogen creams or anti-glycation moisturizers actually work to restore collagen?
• How does daily resistance training exercise increase dermal skin thickness?

👇 Let us know your thoughts in the comments

💌 Send us your questions ahsc@raconteur.tv

Connect with us:

After Hours Skin Clinic Instagram: ⁠@afterhoursskinclinic⁠

Dr Ellie Rashid: ⁠@drellierashid⁠

Dr Emma Craythorne: ⁠@dremmacraythorne⁠

TikTok: ⁠@afterhoursskinclinic⁠

YouTube: ⁠After Hours Skin Clinic Channel⁠

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit https://podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Is social media helping your skin or making it worse? Consultant Dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid expose how algorithms, fake experts, and viral trends are wrecking skin barriers.

Drawing on the latest research presented at the British Association of Dermatologists meetings, Emma and Ellie examine the double-edged sword of online beauty culture.

In this episode, they break down how mechanisms on social media are amplifying fake medical advice, how big skincare brands and high-end magazines inadvertently validate non-expert voices, and why the algorithm pushes controversial content to your feed. Plus, they explore a shocking new study connecting social media screen time to destroyed skin barriers, discuss the hyper-targeting of 13-year-olds with unnecessary active ingredients, and outline how consumers can verify real clinical expertise.

Episode Highlights:

•

The Three-Layer Misinformation Trap: Why engagement algorithms and exaggerated claims trick even savvy consumers.

•

Brand & Media Endorsements: How major skincare brands and top magazines accidentally legitimize non-experts by failing to do basic due diligence.

•

The Filter vs. Reality Gap: Decoding the psychological impact of invisible retouching tools alongside the positive rise of "skin realism" accounts.

•

The 13-Year-Old TikTok Study: What happened when researchers analyzed the first 100 videos served to teenage accounts (and why 6+ active ingredients are wrecking skin barriers).

•

The Screen-Time & Skin-Barrier Correlation: Shocking new clinical findings linking higher social media consumption directly to increased product purchases and worse acne/barrier damage.

•

Reclaiming Digital Skin Health: The three pillars of responsibility required from creators, consumers, and social platforms to fix online medical advice.

Key Questions Answered:

• How can I tell if someone offering skincare advice on TikTok or Instagram is a real dermatologist?
• Why using viral skincare products could be making your skin barrier worse instead of better
• Does social media screen time actually correlate with worse skin conditions like acne?

👇 Let us know your thoughts in the comments

💌 Send us your questions ahsc@raconteur.tv

Klira⁠ - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to ⁠klira.skin⁠

Connect with us:

After Hours Skin Clinic Instagram: @afterhoursskinclinic

Dr Ellie Rashid: @drellierashid

Dr Emma Craythorne: @dremmacraythorne

TikTok: @afterhoursskinclinic

YouTube: After Hours Skin Clinic Channel

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit https://podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Is your monthly gel manicure damaging your skin and triggering hidden face allergies?

From gel manicures causing mysterious eye eczema to the concerning rise of methacrylate allergies and the UK’s brand-new chemical ban on TPO, our nails are undergoing more clinical scrutiny than ever. This week, Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid lift the lid on the hidden risks hiding inside your monthly manicure routine and expose why cutting your cuticles is a recipe for permanent damage.

In this episode, Emma and Ellie unpack the crucial anatomical role of the proximal nail fold (the 'true' cuticle), why DIY gel nail kits are driving a massive surge in contact allergies, and how un-cured acrylates can trigger reactions on your eyelids. Plus, they examine the UVA radiation emitted by gel curing lamps, the clinical rise of periungual warts, and practical steps to protect your hands without ditching your favorite gel polish.

Episode Highlights:

• The Anatomy of a Nail: Why everyone confuses the proximal nail fold with the cuticle and why removing it breaks your nail’s waterproof seal.
• The UK TPO Chemical Ban: What the new restriction on Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide means for your nails.
• The Rise of Acrylate Allergies: How improperly cured home gel kits are causing severe contact dermatitis across the face and eyes.
• The Danger of Periungual Warts: How moisture traps and aggressive cuticle removal propagate stubborn viral infections around the nail.
• Eczema Awareness Connection: Why mysterious eyelid rashes are increasingly linked to nail polish and cosmetic glues.
• UVA Lamps & Skin Damage: Dermatologist-approved strategies (including UV-blocking gloves) to protect your hands during gel treatments.

Key Questions Answered:

• Why should you tell your nail technician never to push back or cut your cuticles?
• Can using a DIY UV gel nail kit at home cause long-term skin allergies?
• How do gel nail chemicals cause allergic reactions around your eyes and face?

Connect with us:

After Hours Skin Clinic Instagram:@afterhoursskinclinic

Dr Ellie Rashid Instagram:@drellierashid

Dr Emma Craythorne Instagram:@dremmacraythorne

TikTok:@afterhoursskinclinic

YouTube:After Hours Skin Clinic Channel

👇 Let us know your thoughts in the comments

💌 Send us your questions ahsc@raconteur.tv

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.

CHAPTERS:

00:00 - Introduction: The UK Chemical Ban on TPO & Nail Health

02:26 - Cuticle Anatomy 101: The Protective Waterproof Seal

04:02 - The Real Danger of Cutting Cuticles (Rashes, Infections & Warts)

07:34 - The Rise of Gel Nail Acrylate Allergies & DIY UV Kits

13:13 - Why Gel Nail Allergies Show Up on Your Eyelids

13:50 - Eczema Awareness Month & Contact Dermatitis Triggers

14:00 - UVA Lamps & How Dermatologists Protect Their Hands

17:55 - UK ban on a chemical (TPO) used in nail hardening products

22:01 - Supplements for nail growth & surprising truth about biotin

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From Jennifer Aniston’s peptide confessions to unregulated online vials sold for £5, teenagers asking for acne fixes, and DIY under-the-skin injections, peptides are e.v.e.r.y.w.h.e.r.e. This week, Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid pull back the curtain on the worrying, unregulated world of injectable "longevity" peptides and separate real pharmaceutical science from social media hype.

In this episode, Emma and Ellie break down what a peptide actually is, why GLP-1 weight-loss medications (like Ozempic and Mounjaro) have created a halo effect for unsafe knock-offs, and why DIY under-the-skin injections carry massive unmonitored risks. Plus, they examine the truth behind copper peptides (GHK-Cu), why that viral blue liquid injection might be a complete waste of money, and the startling results of clinical studies that the beauty industry ignores.

Episode Highlights:

• The Jennifer Aniston Effect: How celebrity skincare confessions can fuel an unregulated online frenzy.
• What Is a Peptide? Deconstructing the science of amino acid chains, from essential insulin to GLP-1s.
• The Unregulated Black Market: Why £5 internet vials labeled "for research purposes only" are a health disaster waiting to happen.
• BPC-157 & Small Animal Studies: Why rat tendon research does not translate to human safety or skin rejuvenation.
• The Truth About Copper Peptides (GHK-Cu): Debunking the myths around wound healing, acne, wrinkles, and reversing gray hair.
• The "No Side Effects Reported" Trap: Why non-drug products lack mandatory reporting systems for adverse events.
• Topical vs. Injectable: Why that viral blue copper peptide serum looks pretty on TikTok but lacks solid clinical backing.

Key Questions Answered:

• Are injectable peptides bought online safe or effective for skin aging and longevity?
• Do topical copper peptides (GHK-Cu) actually cure acne, reduce wrinkles, or stop gray hair?
• What is the difference between prescription GLP-1 peptides and unregulated DIY peptide vials?

Want to learn more about peptides? Listen to our episode 'Peptides: What Are They, How Do They Work, and Should You Use Them?' on Apple, Spotify or YouTube.

Connect with us:

After Hours Skin Clinic Instagram:@afterhoursskinclinic

Dr Ellie Rashid Instagram:@drellierashid

Dr Emma Craythorne Instagram:@dremmacraythorne

TikTok:@afterhoursskinclinic

Listen on Spotify:After Hours Skin Clinic

Listen on Apple Podcasts:After Hours Skin Clinic

👇 Let us know your thoughts in the comments

💌 Send us your questions ahsc@raconteur.tv

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit https://podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Navigating skincare during pregnancy can feel like an overwhelming minefield of misinformation, fearmongering, and conflicting advice. This week on the After Hours Skin Clinic, Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid unpack the latest clinical evidence to bring expectant mothers complete peace of mind.

In this episode, Emma and Ellie run down a definitive A-to-Z list of popular skincare ingredients: from tretinoin, retinol, and hydroquinone to azelaic acid, salicylic acid, and vitamin C. They explain the difference between localised skin application and systemic absorption, break down why you shouldn't panic if you used a retinoid before finding out you were pregnant, and share the exact ingredients dermatologists rely on to manage pregnancy acne, melasma, and rosacea safely.

Episode Highlights:

• The Anxiety of Pregnancy Skincare: Why fear-based advice causes unnecessary stress and how science guides safe choices.
• Topical vs. Oral Retinoids: Why you should stop prescription tretinoin and why over-the-counter retinol are not advised, but why accidental use of topical retinoids isn't a reason to panic.
• The Hard No Ingredient: Why hydroquinone must be strictly avoided during pregnancy due to high systemic absorption into the bloodstream.
• Managing Hormonal Acne & Melasma Safely: Why azelaic acid, benzoyl peroxide, and low-dose glycolic acid are dermatologist-approved pregnancy powerhouses.
• Navigating Acids & Bakuchiol: Understanding the safety thresholds for salicylic acid (2% limit) and the latest 2026 data on bakuchiol.
• Nipple Balms & Newborn Safety: The single evidence-backed ingredient safe for breastfeeding babies (and why it makes the ultimate lip balm).

Key Questions Answered:

• What skincare ingredients are strictly unsafe to use during pregnancy?
• Is it safe to use salicylic acid, glycolic acid, or azelaic acid while pregnant?
• What should I do if I accidentally used a retinoid before realizing I was pregnant?

Products Mentioned:

• Klira (Custom prescription skincare formulated by Dr Emma Craythorne)
• Lansinoh Lanolin Nipple Cream / Lip Balm
• Azelaic Acid (Topical treatment evaluated for pregnancy safety)
• Hydroquinone (Prescription agent strictly not advised in pregnancy)
• Benzoyl Peroxide (Topical antibacterial ingredient cleared for pregnancy)
• Salicylic Acid (up to 2%) & Glycolic Acid
• Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid, 10–15% at pH 2.5)

Connect with us:

After Hours Skin Clinic Instagram: @afterhoursskinclinic

Dr Ellie Rashid: @drellierashid

Dr Emma Craythorne: @dremmacraythorne

TikTok: @afterhoursskinclinic

YouTube: After Hours Skin Clinic Channel

👇 Let us know your thoughts in the comments 💌 Send us your questions ahsc@raconteur.tv

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.

⁠Klira⁠ - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to ⁠klira.skin⁠

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit https://podcastchoices.com/adchoices

From jaw pain caused by "mewing" to extreme internet trends where young men take hammers to their face, the internet’s obsession with "looksmaxxing" is going far beyond a basic skincare routine. This week, Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid investigate the bizarre, dark, and often dangerous underworld of extreme aesthetic manipulation.

In this episode, Emma and Ellie unpack the medical realities behind softmaxxing vs. hardmaxxing, the psychological impact of online body ideals, and why trying to "mew" or "bone-smash" your way to a chiselled jawline is a recipe for permanent damage. Plus, they explore how these online trends exploit vulnerability, the dangerous black-market use of prescription skin-bleaching ingredients like hydroquinone, and why true attraction is so much more than skin deep.

Episode Highlights:

• The Medical Reality of 'Mewing': How a 15-year-old’s unexplained jaw pain led Dr Ellie down the internet rabbit hole of DIY facial re-shaping.
• Softmaxxing vs. Hardmaxxing: Breaking down the line between healthy self-care and extreme physical alteration.
• The Danger of 'Bone Smashing': Why hitting your face with a hammer triggers soft-tissue trauma and swelling rather than structural bone growth.
• Facial Nerve Damage & Fracture Risks: The permanent clinical consequences of unmonitored facial trauma.
• Black-Market Hydroquinone: The dangerous rise of unsupervised skin bleaching and the risk of irreversible ochronosis.
• Beyond 2D Aesthetics: Why online image trends exploit psychological vulnerabilities and distort real-world human connection.

Key Questions Answered:

• What is looksmaxxing, and why are young men resorting to dangerous DIY face reshaping?
• Is "mewing" or "bone smashing" medically safe or effective for creating a stronger jawline?
• What are the clinical dangers of using hydroquinone without a dermatologist's supervision?

👇 Let us know your thoughts in the comments

💌 Send us your questions ahsc@raconteur.tv

Connect with us:

• After Hours Skin Clinic Instagram:@afterhoursskinclinic
• Dr Ellie Rashid:@drellierashid
• Dr Emma Craythorne:@dremmacraythorne
• TikTok:@afterhoursskinclinic
• YouTube:After Hours Skin Clinic Channel

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.

⁠Klira⁠ - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to⁠klira.skin⁠

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit https://podcastchoices.com/adchoices

From high-end night creams to cheap and effective cleansers, what do skin specialists actually buy with their own money? This week, Consultant Dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid pull back the curtain on their personal shopping lists, revealing where they like to splurge and where they save the most when it comes to skin health and the right products or procedures.

In this episode, Emma and Ellie unpack the truth about luxury vs. high-street skincare, why muscle-building exercise changes dermal thickness, and the surprising mental health "glow" that comes from joy, relaxation and movement. Plus, they break down why expensive collagen powders fail to deliver, which in-office laser technologies are actually worth the investment over home gadgets, and their favorite budget-friendly drugstore staples.

Episode Highlights:

• The Science of Exercise & Dermal Thickness: How resistance training releases muscle myokines that directly boost skin structure and sleep quality.
• Sensory Joy vs. Active Ingredients: The real reason Dr Ellie splurges on her night cream (and how to layer it with prescription actives).
• In-Office Lasers vs. At-Home Gadgets: Why dermatologists skip handheld home devices in favor of Alexandrite, Nd:YAG, and CO2 in-clinic treatments.
• The Lymphatic Drainage Myth: How targeted massage techniques support fluid flow and overall relaxation.
• Dietary Collagen vs. Eating the Rainbow: Why expensive collagen supplements fall short compared to whole-food nutrition.
• Dermatologist-Approved Budget Staples: The exact drugstore cleansers, body creams, and anti-dandruff shampoos Emma and Ellie buy on repeat.

Key Questions Answered:

• Do expensive night creams work better than drugstore moisturisers, or are you just paying for fragrance?
• Are at-home skincare devices and laser gadgets worth your money?
• What are the best affordable cleansers and body moisturizers recommended by dermatologists?

Products Mentioned:

• Klira (Bespoke prescription skincare formulated by Dr Emma Craythorne)
• Niance Night Care Regenerate
• Aveeno Skin Relief Moisturizing Cream
• La Roche-Posay Lipikar Baume AP+M
• Byredo Hair Perfume
• Dyson Airwrap & GHD Hairdryer
• Ziip (Nano-current facial device)
• Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser & Cetaphil Rich Night Cream
• CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser
• E45 Cream
• QV Skincare Range
• Head & Shoulders Shampoo (Classic Original & Citrus Fresh)

Find The Times article mentioned in the episode here.

👇 Let us know your thoughts in the comments

💌 Send us your questions ahsc@raconteur.tv

Connect with us:

After Hours Skin Clinic Instagram:@afterhoursskinclinic

Dr Ellie Rashid:@drellierashid

Dr Emma Craythorne:@dremmacraythorne

TikTok:@afterhoursskinclinic

YouTube:After Hours Skin Clinic Channel

This is a Raconteur Studios Production. ⁠

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit https://podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Do collagen supplements actually work?

Collagen powders, drinks and supplements promise plumper skin, fewer wrinkles and more collagen, but what does the science actually show?

In this episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic, Consultant Dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid break down what collagen is, why we lose it as we age, and whether taking collagen orally can really improve your skin.

They examine the evidence behind collagen supplements, discuss UV exposure and lifestyle factors that damage collagen, and explain which skincare ingredients and treatments have stronger evidence for supporting collagen.

You'll learn:

• Whether collagen supplements are worth the money
• What happens to collagen as you age
• How UV exposure damages collagen
• Whether collagen can reduce wrinkles
• Why food and protein may matter more
• The evidence behind tretinoin, vitamin C and peptides
• How in-clinic treatments can stimulate collagen

👇 Let us know your thoughts in the comments

💌 Send us your questions ahsc@raconteur.tv

🤍 Follow us on Instagram

👀 Watch us on ⁠Youtube⁠

🔔 Subscribe for dermatologist-led, evidence-based skincare.

Producer: Ella Blaxill Series Editor: Eve Streeter
Music: Simon Elms

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit https://podcastchoices.com/adchoices

We all know exercise is good for our heart, muscles and mental health, but what does it do for our skin? In this episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic, Consultant Dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid answer the question: Can exercise actually make your skin healthier? They explore the surprising connection between exercise and skin health, including how resistance training may increase dermal thickness and collagen, why exercise is linked with less severe psoriasis, and whether sweating really “detoxes” your skin. They also discuss the potential downsides of exercise for conditions including rosacea, hives and sweat-related rashes, and what you can do if exercise triggers your skin. In this episode:

• Can exercise make your skin thicker?
• Exercise, collagen and skin ageing
• Why resistance training may benefit your skin
• The relationship between exercise and psoriasis
• Does sweating actually detox your skin?
• Exercise, blood flow and the post-workout glow
• Can exercise make rosacea worse?
• Exercise-induced hives and sweat rashes
• Why movement throughout the day matters
• How exercise can support better sleep and healthier skin

🎧 Listen on Apple Podcasts & Spotify. 🔔 Subscribe for dermatologist-led, evidence-based skincare. Producer: Ella Blaxill Series Editor: Eve Streeter Music: Simon Elms This is a Raconteur Studios Production.

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit https://podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Sunburn isn't just red, sore skin...

Consultant Dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid explain what happens to your skin when UV radiation causes sunburn, why repeated UV exposure increases the risk of skin damage and skin cancer, and what you can actually do if you've been caught out.

You'll learn:

• Why some people burn faster than others
• What sunburn does to your DNA
• Whether there's such a thing as a safe tan
• Why sunbeds don't give you a protective "base tan"
• How to use the UV Index
• What actually helps treat sunburn
• Which popular sunburn remedies aren't worth it

Products mentioned:

• Avène Thermal Spring Water
• Aloe vera gel

Don't forget to follow and subscribe so you don't miss another episode!

You can watch us on YouTube and find us on Instagram too.

Producer: Ella Blaxill

Series Editor: Eve Streeter

Music: Simon Elms

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit https://podcastchoices.com/adchoices

In this episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic, Consultant Dermatologist Dr Ellie Rashid explains why scalp health is so important for healthy hair, from dandruff and oily scalps to hair growth, shedding and scalp inflammation.

She tackles the biggest hair and scalp myths, including whether dirty hair grows better, whether you can "train" your scalp to produce less oil, and whether rosemary oil really works for hair growth.

In this episode:

• What makes a healthy scalp
• Dandruff vs a dry scalp
• Seborrhoeic dermatitis and Malassezia
• How often should you wash your hair?
• Can you train your scalp to produce less oil?
• Does dirty hair grow faster?
• Should you exfoliate your scalp?
• Rosemary oil vs minoxidil
• Does shampoo affect hair growth?
• Why conditioner shouldn't go on your scalp
• When scalp inflammation can contribute to hair problems

Products mentioned:

• Nizoral 2% Ketoconazole Shampoo
• Head & Shoulders
• Briogeo Hydrating Shampoo
• Pureology Hydrating Shampoo
• K18 Detox Shampoo
• Minoxidil 5%

🎧 Listen on Apple Podcasts & Spotify.

🔔 Subscribe for dermatologist-led, evidence-based skincare and hair advice.

Producer: Ella Blaxill

Series Editor: Eve Streeter

Music: Simon Elms

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit https://podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Psoriasis affects around 125 million people worldwide but there's still so much misunderstanding around the condition.

In this special Psoriasis Awareness Month episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic podcast, Consultant Dermatologist Dr Ellie Rashid explains what psoriasis is, what causes it, and the treatment options available today.

Alongside a personal story (special thanks to Alys for sharing her experience), Ellie discusses common triggers, the different types of psoriasis, whether diet plays a role, and how treatments such as phototherapy, topical therapies and biologics can help manage the condition.

You'll learn:

• What causes psoriasis
• Common triggers and flare-ups
• How psoriasis is treated
• Why phototherapy works differently for everyone
• The latest biologic treatments
• The emotional impact of living with psoriasis
• When to speak to your GP or dermatologist

If you've recently been diagnosed or have lived with psoriasis for years, or know someone who needs help or reassurance, this episode is packed with practical, evidence-based advice from a consultant dermatologist.

Producer: Ella Blaxill
Series Editor: Eve Streeter
Music: Simon Elms

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit https://podcastchoices.com/adchoices

In this episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic podcast, Consultant Dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid discuss why misleading skincare advice spreads so quickly online, how social media algorithms reward sensational claims, and what to look for when deciding who to trust.

In this episode:

• Why skincare misinformation spreads so quickly
• Can you trust skincare influencers?
• How to tell if advice is evidence-based
• Why dermatologist-led education matters
• The truth about viral sunscreen myths
• How to spot misleading skincare claims and why qualifications matter
• Emma and Ellie's experiences creating educational content online.

If you've ever wondered who you should believe when it comes to skincare advice, this episode will help you separate fact from fiction.

👇 Have you come across skincare misinformation online? Let us know in the comments.

🔔 Subscribe for dermatologist-led, evidence-based skincare.

🎧 Listen on Apple Podcasts & Spotify.

Producer: Ella Blaxill

Series Editor: Eve Streeter

Music: Simon Elms

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit https://podcastchoices.com/adchoices

What are milia? Should you squeeze them? And why do they keep coming back?

In this episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic podcast, Consultant Dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid explain everything you need to know about milia, the tiny white bumps that commonly appear around the eyes, cheeks and face.

Often mistaken for whiteheads or spots, milia are one of the most common skin concerns dermatologists are asked about. Emma and Ellie explain what causes them, why they won't pop like a pimple, when they disappear on their own, and the safest way to remove them.

They also tackle some of the biggest myths circulating on social media, including DIY extraction techniques, home remedies and whether certain skincare products can make milia worse.

Whether you've had milia yourself, noticed them on your baby, or are simply wondering what those tiny white bumps on your skin actually are, this episode is packed with practical, evidence-based advice from two consultant dermatologists.

This episode covers:

• What are milia?
• Milia vs whiteheads: what's the difference?
• Why you shouldn't squeeze milia
• What causes milia to develop?
• Can moisturisers and eye creams cause milia?
• Why babies commonly develop milia
• The link between sun damage and milia
• Can retinoids help prevent milia?
• The safest way to remove milia
• Why DIY extraction can lead to infection and scarring
• Common milia myths debunked
• When you should see a dermatologist

Emma and Ellie also explain why milia become more common with age, why they often develop around the eyes, and what they personally recommend to patients in clinic.

If you've ever searched "How do I get rid of milia?" or "What are the tiny white bumps on my face?", this episode is for you.

👇 Let us know your skincare questions in the comments.

🔔 Subscribe for dermatologist-led, evidence-based skincare.

👀 Watch us on YouTube.

Producer: Ella Blaxill

Series Editor: Eve Streeter

Music: Simon Elms

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit https://podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Are you washing your face the right way? Is double cleansing always necessary? And why do dermatologists say that "squeaky clean" skin is actually a bad thing?

In this episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic podcast, Consultant Dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid explain everything you need to know about facial cleansers, skin barriers and how to choose the right cleanser for your skin type.

From acne-prone skin and eczema to rosacea and sensitive skin, Emma and Ellie break down how cleansers work, why some can damage your skin barrier, and why an expensive cleanser isn't necessarily a better one.

You'll learn why cleansing is one of the most important steps in your skincare, how easy it is to get wrong, and how using the incorrect product could be undoing the benefits of the rest of your routine.

This episode covers:

• Are you washing your face the right way? Yes, there is a right way!
• Why "squeaky clean" skin is a warning sign
• How cleansers actually work
• The truth about double cleansing
• How to choose the right cleanser for your skin type
• The difference between cream, foaming and salicylic acid cleansers
• Cleansers for acne, rosacea, eczema and sensitive skin
• Why your skin barrier matters
• Should you use hot or cold water?
• How long should you cleanse for?
• Do expensive cleansers work better?
• Should you wash your face in the morning?
• Are cleansing brushes and facial scrubs damaging your skin?

Emma and Ellie also explain why cleanser is one of the most important steps in any skincare routine, how to avoid over-cleansing, and the simple techniques they recommend to patients every day in clinic.

This episode includes a paid partnership with @cerave, a skincare brand developed with dermatologists, focused on repairing and strengthening the skin barrier. Emma and Ellie discuss the different CeraVe cleanser formulations and how they may suit different skin types and concerns.

If you've ever felt overwhelmed by the number of cleansers available, or wondered whether you're actually cleansing your skin correctly, then this episode is for you.

👇 Let us know your skincare questions in the comments.

🔔 Subscribe for dermatologist-led, evidence-based skincare.

🎧 Listen on Apple Podcasts & Spotify.

🎥 Watch us on YouTube @afterhoursskinclinic.

Find us on Instagram and TikTok @afterhoursskinclinic.

Products mentioned:

• CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser
• CeraVe Foaming Cleanser
• CeraVe Blemish Control Cleanser
• CeraVe SA Smoothing Cleanser

Dr Emma and Dr Ellie’s Cleanser cheat-sheet…

Dry

CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser

Gently removes dirt while helping support the skin barrier with ceramides and hyaluronic acid.

Sensitive

CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser

A gentle, non-stripping formula that's suitable for easily irritated skin.

Eczema-prone

CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser

Cleanses without leaving skin feeling tight or "squeaky clean".

Rosacea-prone

CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser

A gentle cream cleanser that's less likely to disrupt an already sensitive skin barrier.

Normal skin

CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser or Foaming Cleanser

Choose based on your preferred texture—cream or foam.

Combination skin

CeraVe Foaming Cleanser

Removes excess oil while helping maintain the skin barrier.

Oily skin

CeraVe Foaming Cleanser

Cleanses away oil and impurities without leaving skin stripped.

Breakout-prone

CeraVe Blemish Control Cleanser

Contains 2% salicylic acid & Niacinamide. It Unclogs pores & helps regulate excess oil. Also suitable for those who may be prone to acne.

Blackheads & clogged pores

CeraVe Blemish Control Cleanser

Contains 2% salicylic acid. It penetrates & unclogs pores to help clear congestion.

Bumpy Body Skin

CeraVe SA Smoothing Cleanser

Contains 2% Salicylic acid. It gently exfoliates while moisturising to help support the skin barrier. Also suitable for those prone to Keratosis Pilaris (KP).

Body Breakouts

CeraVe SA Smoothing Cleanser

A practical body cleanser for breakout-prone areas. Also suitable for those who may be prone to acne on their body.

Disclaimer: This cheat sheet is not part of the episode sponsorship, recommendations are Emma & Ellie’s own.

Producer: Ella Blaxill

Series Editor: Eve Streeter

Music: Simon Elms

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.

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What are the biggest skincare myths dermatologists wish everyone would stop believing? Here’s Consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne’s and Dr Ellie Rashid’s top ten skin truths.

To celebrate the 100th episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic podcast, Consultant Dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid share their ten biggest skin truths. Evidence-based advice they wish every patient knew.

From sunscreen and pores to expensive skincare, hydration, dandruff and skin cancer, Emma and Ellie separate fact from fiction, debunk some of the internet's biggest skincare myths, and explain what really matters when it comes to healthy skin.

Whether you're building your first skincare routine or trying to make sense of conflicting advice on social media, this episode is packed with practical, science-backed guidance from two consultant dermatologists.

This episode covers:

• The biggest skincare myths dermatologists hear every day
• Can you really open and close your pores?
• Does shaving make hair grow back thicker?
• How to understand your own skin type
• Why "medical grade" skincare is mostly a marketing term
• Should you trust skincare claims and before-and-after photos?
• Does expensive skincare actually work better?
• Why consistency beats complicated skincare routines
• Why wearing sunscreen every day matters for skin ageing
• Does drinking more water hydrate your skin?
• What skin cancer really looks like (it's not what you might think)
• What dandruff actually is and why oils can make it worse

Emma and Ellie also discuss why personalised skincare is more effective than copying someone else's routine, how to avoid misleading marketing claims, and the simple habits that have the biggest impact on long-term skin health.

Whether you're new to skincare or a lifelong skincare enthusiast, these are the skin truths every dermatologist wishes more people knew.

👇 Let us know your thoughts in the comments

Find us on⁠Instagram⁠

👀 Watch us on⁠Youtube⁠

🔔 Subscribe for dermatologist-led, evidence-based skincare.

🎧 Listen on Apple Podcasts & Spotify.

Products mentioned:

• Nizoral® (Ketoconazole 2%) Shampoo
• Klira⁠ - Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, Klira is a bespoke luxury skincare formula prescribed by dermatologists. You may hear it mentioned from time to time on the podcast and if you want to find out more head over to⁠klira.skin⁠

Producer: Ella Blaxill

Series Editor: Eve Streeter

Music: Simon Elms

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit https://podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Summer can be one of the easiest times to accidentally damage your skin.

In this episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic podcast, Consultant Dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid answer the questions they're asked every year about preparing your skin for summer.

Should you wax before your holiday? Is a "base tan" ever a good idea? Do you need a complicated skincare routine on a flight? And can I use last year's sunscreen?

Emma and Ellie explain how to time beauty treatments to minimise irritation and pigmentation, why sunbeds are never worth the risk, and how simple changes to your routine can help keep your skin healthy all summer long.

This episode covers:

• Preparing your skin for summer
• Laser hair removal, waxing and shaving before holidays
• How to avoid post-inflammatory pigmentation
• Retinoids, exfoliating acids and summer skincare
• In-flight skincare myths
• Holiday acne and travel breakouts
• Perfume, essential oils and UV reactions
• Lime juice and phytophotodermatitis
• Why a "base tan" doesn't protect your skin
• The risks of sunbeds and skin cancer
• When to replace your sunscreen
• Favourite summer skincare essentials

Whether you're planning a beach holiday, spending more time outdoors or simply want to protect your skin this summer, this episode is packed with practical, evidence-based advice from two consultant dermatologists.

👇 Let us know your thoughts in the comments

👀 Watch us on Youtube

🔔 Subscribe for dermatologist-led, evidence-based skincare.

Products mentioned:

• Ultrasun Lip Protection SPF
• NUXE Huile Prodigieuse® Or (Shimmer Dry Oil)

Producer: Ella Blaxill

Series Editor: Eve Streeter

Music: Simon Elms

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit https://podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Consultant dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid explain what keratosis pilaris (KP), also known as strawberry skin or chicken skin, actually is, why it develops around hair follicles, and which evidence-based treatments work best, including lactic acid, urea creams, chemical exfoliants, retinoids, moisturisers and laser hair removal.

In this episode:

• What keratosis pilaris (KP) actually is
• Why people call it strawberry skin or chicken skin
• The real cause of keratosis pilaris
• Why KP often runs in families
• The connection between hair follicles, keratin and inflammation
• Why KP gets worse during winter
• The truth about physical exfoliation and scrubs
• Lactic acid vs salicylic acid: which works best?
• The role of urea creams and moisturisers
• When retinoids may help
• Why laser hair removal may be one of the most effective treatments
• How to prevent redness and pigmentation

Key Takeaways:

• Keratosis pilaris affects around 50% of people
• Physical scrubbing can make KP worse
• Chemical exfoliants outperform mechanical exfoliation
• 10% lactic acid appears more effective than 5% salicylic acid
• Urea-based moisturisers help soften and smooth rough skin
• Consistent moisturising supports the skin barrier
• SPF helps prevent post-inflammatory pigmentation
• Laser hair removal may provide longer-term improvement

Products Mentioned:

• Ameliorate Transforming Body Lotion
• Eucerin UreaRepair
• The Ordinary Glycolic Acid
• CeraVe SA Smoothing Range
• Cetaphil Salicylic Acid Range

Subscribe for evidence-based skincare advice from consultant dermatologists.

Follow & Connect:

Instagram: @afterhoursskinclinic

Email: info@afterhoursskinclinic.com

Producer: Ella Blaxill

Exec: Eve Streeter

Music by Simon Elms.

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit https://podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Do mineral sunscreens really work better than chemical sunscreens? Are chemical filters actually harmful? And what should you believe when sunscreen misinformation is everywhere?

In this episode of the After Hours Skin Clinic podcast, Consultant Dermatologists Dr Emma Craythorne and Dr Ellie Rashid tackle one of the most controversial topics in skincare: the debate between mineral and chemical sunscreens.

From TikTok myths and conspiracy theories to concerns about ingredient absorption, coral reefs, vitamin D, and skin cancer, Emma and Ellie break down what the evidence actually says about sunscreen safety and effectiveness.

They explain why sunscreen remains one of the most important tools we have for preventing skin cancer, pigmentation, and premature ageing — and why fear-based misinformation could be putting people at risk.

This episode covers:

• Mineral vs chemical sunscreens: what's the difference?
• Are chemical sunscreen filters absorbed into the body?
• The truth about oxybenzone and sunscreen safety studies
• Why absorption does not equal toxicity
• Common sunscreen myths circulating on social media
• Do sunscreens cause cancer?
• What the evidence says about skin cancer prevention
• Coral reefs, environmental concerns, and sunscreen bans
• Can sunscreen cause vitamin D deficiency?
• Why UV exposure still damages skin, even in the UK
• How sunscreen helps prevent pigmentation and premature ageing
• The importance of UVA, UVB and visible light protection
• Why finding a sunscreen you enjoy using matters most
• The best sunscreen formulations for different skin types

Emma and Ellie also share the sunscreens they regularly recommend in clinic, discuss why sunscreen technology has improved dramatically over the past decade, and explain why the "mineral versus chemical" debate isn't actually a competition at all.

This episode includes a paid partnership with Eucerin, a skincare brand with a long history of dermatological research. During the episode, Emma and Ellie discuss Eucerin Oil Control Gel Cream SPF50+ and the formulation features that may make it suitable for oily and acne-prone skin. All opinions expressed remain those of the hosts.

If you've ever felt confused by conflicting sunscreen advice online, this episode will help you separate evidence from misinformation.

👇 Let us know your thoughts in the comments

🔔 Subscribe for dermatologist-led, evidence-based skincare

🎧 Listen on Apple Podcasts & Spotify

Products mentioned:

• Eucerin Oil Control Gel Cream SPF50+
• Altruist Sunscreen
• Klira The DayScript
• Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh Rice Sunscreen

Producer: Ella Blaxill

Series Editor: Eve Streeter

Music: Simon Elms

This is a Raconteur Studios Production.

Learn more about your ad choices. Visit https://podcastchoices.com/adchoices