ARENI Global: In Conversation

Why do some wines turn to vinegar — while others last for decades? And how did learning to age wine turn a perishable drink into a luxury good worth collecting and trading?

In this three-part series from Areni Global, Pauline Vicard and Felicity Carter look at how the quest for ageability shaped not just wine itself, but also the trading environment, leading to today’s fine wine market.

For most of wine’s history, the challenge was to keep wine drinkable. Early vignerons and merchants tried everything, from sealing containers with pitch to adding spices and herbs, or boiled must. But solutions came from the strangest places, whether it was unwelcome tariffs and taxes that drove innovation, or decrees about firewood leading to the development of the strong glass bottle.

We talk to leading experts and historians, who explain Roman wine snobs, the early American taste for Madeira and why Australian winemakers and London importers were sending angry letters to one another.

In this episode, we explore:

• What the Romans knew about ageing wine, and why Falernian wine was the toast of the ancient world;
• How the barrel went from a receptacle to the trade’s unit of measurement;
• How Madeira’s tax exemption created a taste for older wine;
• How a 1615 ban on wood-fired glass furnaces led to stronger bottles, Champagne and branded château wines;
• How the journey of 12,000 nautical miles from Australia to Britain pushed the country towards fortified wine production; and
• An intriguing discussion about whether the statistical revolution of the Victorian era changed how people thought about age.

About the guests:

Dr Emlyn Dodd is an archaeologist at the University of Adelaide who specialises in the ancient Mediterranean, including Greek and Roman wine production and trade.

Rod Phillips teaches history at Carleton University in Ottawa. He is the author of several of the most important modern histories of wine.

David Hancock is Professor of History at the University of Michigan and the author of a major study of Madeira and its trade in the 18th century.

Jennifer Regan-Lefebvre is Professor of History at Trinity College, Connecticut. She is the author of Imperial Wine, a history of wine in Australia, New Zealand and South Africa.

About Vinventions

Bottling Time was made possible with the support of Vinventions, one of the world’s leading producers of wine closures. Areni kept full editorial freedom. To learn more about Vinventions’ research and its range of closures, visit http://www.vinventions.com/.

About Areni Global

Areni Global is an independent think tank dedicated to the future of fine wine. Headquartered in London, its mission is to help the fine wine sector understand and respond to the economic, cultural and societal changes reshaping the world around it.

Through independent research, strategic reports, podcasts and industry events, Areni brings together producers, merchants, distributors, collectors and experts from across disciplines to explore the questions that will define the next generation of fine wine.

To learn more about Areni's work, subscribe to the newsletter or become a member, visit https://www.areni.global/.

What happens when the economics of selling fine wine in restaurants stop adding up? And what does this mean when these changes happen in the world’s largest wine market?

Locked into the middle of a perfect storms of rising operating costs, price-conscious consumers and a disrupted distribution landscape, US restaurants are rethinking the economics of their wine lists.

For fine wine, this is reshaping not only what makes it onto those lists and at what price, but the entire route through which producers reach restaurants and, ultimately, consumers.

In this episode of Areni Global in Conversation, Pauline Vicard sits down with Master Sommelier Emily Wines, Vice President of Wine and Beverage Experience at Cooper’s Hawk Winery & Restaurants, to look at what these changes mean in practice.

With around 85 restaurants and a wine club numbering hundreds of thousands of members, Cooper’s Hawk gives Emily an unusual vantage point from which to observe how American consumers are drinking and spending. The conversation moves from Sauvignon Blanc and wine cocktails to fine Burgundy, restaurant margins, distribution and the changing role of the sommelier.

In this episode, we explore:

· How restaurants are changing the way they make money from their wine lists

· The biggest mistakes sommeliers are still making when building a wine list

· How consumer price sensitivity is changing the way people trade up

· How distributor consolidation and changing sales incentives are affecting smaller producers’ ability to get attention and placements

· Why fewer markets and greater focus might make more sense for producers trying to build a presence in the US

About the guest

Emily Wines is a Master Sommelier and leader in wine, hospitality, and education. At Cooper’s Hawk Winery & Restaurants, she leads wine innovation and experiences for more than 850,000 Wine Club members. She is one of only two women to receive the Remi Krug Cup for passing all three sections of the Master Sommelier exam on her first attempt and previously served as Chair of the Board of the Court of Master Sommeliers, Americas.

Emily is also the founder of the Women’s Sommelier Symposium, created to provide mentorship, education, and community for women in the profession. A frequent speaker and media contributor, she was selected by MasterClass to teach its wine appreciation class, which launched on the platform in 2024 and brought her approachable style of wine education to a global audience.

To learn more about the Camille Series mentioned in the episode: https://shop.coopershawkwinery.com/Wine/super-premium-wine/

To learn more about Somm Biz, the Court of Master Sommeliers America Online Wine Business Course for the Sommelier and Service Professional: https://www.mastersommeliers.org/sommbiz/

About Areni Global

Areni Global is an independent think tank dedicated to the future of fine wine. Headquartered in London, its mission is to help the fine wine sector understand and respond to the profound economic, cultural and societal changes reshaping the world around it.

Through independent research, strategic reports, podcasts and industry events, Areni brings together producers, merchants, distributors, collectors and experts from across disciplines to explore the questions that will define the next generation of fine wine.

To learn more about Areni's work, subscribe to the newsletter or become a member, visit http://www.areni.global/.

What can a private members' club teach us about the future of fine wine?

The origins of private members' clubs in the UK are deeply tied to the emergence of modern urban elite culture in 19th-century London. Britain's political and commercial elite wanted somewhere to build trust, exchange ideas and strengthen relationships away from public view. Informal circles gradually became formal memberships.

Today, private members' clubs continue to evolve. While politics has largely given way to business, culture and leisure, they still perform the same fundamental role: creating trusted communities around shared interests. Few illustrate that evolution more clearly than 67 Pall Mall.

In this episode, Pauline Vicard speaks with Grant Ashton, founder and CEO of 67 Pall Mall, about how a club that began almost by accident grew into one of the world's largest international fine wine communities, with locations across Europe and Asia.

Together, they explore what private members' clubs reveal about changing patterns of work, community and consumption; why fine wine has become increasingly inaccessible; how younger consumers engage with the category; and what happens when a distinctly British institution is transplanted into cities such as Singapore, Shanghai and Bordeaux.

The result is a conversation that uses the private members' club not simply as a business model, but as a lens through which to examine some of the structural challenges—and opportunities—shaping the future of fine wine.

In this episode

• Why 67 Pall Mall exists — and why it was never supposed to be a members' club.
• What private members' clubs actually do
• How the concept adapts across different cultures and cities.
• Why pricing has become one of fine wine's greatest structural challenges.
• What membership organisations understand about customer relationships that much of the wine trade still does not.

About the guest

Grant Ashton is the founder and CEO of 67 Pall Mall, a private members' club dedicated to fine wine. A former investment banker, he established the first club in London in 2015 before expanding the concept internationally, with locations in Singapore, Hong Kong, Verbier, Bordeaux, Shanghai and Melbourne, alongside further developments in progress. Today, 67 Pall Mall has more than 11,000 members worldwide and has become one of the largest communities of fine wine enthusiasts globally.

About Areni Global

Areni Global is an independent think tank dedicated to the future of fine wine. Headquartered in London, its mission is to help the fine wine sector understand and respond to the profound economic, cultural and societal changes reshaping the world around it.

Through independent research, strategic reports, podcasts and industry events, Areni brings together producers, merchants, distributors, collectors and experts from across disciplines to explore the questions that will define the next generation of fine wine.

To learn more about Areni's work, subscribe to the newsletter or become a member, visit http://www.areni.global.

What does a luxury boutique know about customer loyalty that most wineries, merchants, and retailers don't? Unsurprisingly, quite a lot.

In this episode, Pauline sits down in Hong Kong with Charles de la Portbarré, a mathematician who has spent 15 years building customer data models and loyalty programs for major luxury houses.

Together they unpack "clienteling" — the practice of segmenting your customers, analyzing their purchase history, and tailoring how you engage with them depending on where they sit in their journey with your brand. They dig into customer loyalty strategies, allocation systems, and the practical steps wine businesses — whether they sell direct-to-consumer or through distributors — can take to grow not just sales performance, but long-term customer engagement and retention.

The result is a practical, step-by-step guide to building a customer segmentation strategy for wine, even if all you have to start with is an Excel spreadsheet of sales transactions.

Topics discussed include:

• What luxury brands measure today — and why engagement matters more than sales alone

• The principles of clienteling and how to apply them in wine

• The four essential customer buckets: new, loyal, re-engaged, and dropped clients

• Why re-engaging former customers is often more valuable than acquiring new ones

• How to identify future ambassadors for your brand

• Allocation systems, fairness, and the challenge of developing future customers

About the Guest:

Charles de La Portbarre is a data scientist and client analytics specialist with over 15 years of experience, including nearly a decade working for major international luxury Maisons in Hong Kong and Asia. His work focuses on translating complex customer behaviour data into actionable commercial strategy, with a particular expertise in clienteling, customer segmentation, and loyalty programme design.

About Areni Global:

In Conversation is the podcast of Areni Global, an independent think tank dedicated to the future of fine wine. Hosted by Pauline Vicard, each episode features in-depth conversations with experts from wine, luxury, retail, finance, and beyond — exploring the ideas and strategies shaping the future of fine wine.

Subscribe / Follow:

Available on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, and all major podcast platforms. Search Areni Global In Conversation.

Subscribe to Areni newsletter: https://bit.ly/AreniNewsletter

What makes a wine event memorable? And why do some experiences succeed in turning people into long-term wine drinkers, while others leave no lasting impression at all?

In this final episode of New Consumers, New Narratives, Pauline Vicard speaks with Loïc Lamy and Milena Berman, founders of Hautes Côtes and creators of the now cult Vin & Hip Hop events in Burgundy.

Drawing on their experience organising events in Burgundy, Champagne, and Los Angeles, they discuss what younger consumers actually look for when they engage with wine: not status or technical knowledge alone, but hospitality, emotion, community, and a sense of belonging.

For anyone organising events, hosting clients, or building wine tourism experiences, this conversation offers a timely reminder: people do not remember how much information they received. They remember how they felt, who they met, and whether they felt genuinely welcomed into the world of wine.

More on Hautes Cotes: https://www.hautescotes.com/en

And to take part in their upcoming wine and music events:

· Montrachet Jazz festival in Puligny Montrachet, 30-31 May 2026

· Pop and Hip Hop in Champagne, 23 June 2026

· Vin and Hip Hop in Vougeot, October 2026

Why - and how- did wine become collectible?

Pauline Vicard speaks with Amayés Aouli, Global Head of Wine & Spirits at Bonhams, one of the world’s oldest auction houses. Together, they explore the often-misunderstood world of wine auctions, beyond the spectacle of paddles and hammer prices. The discussion reveals how auctions translate desire into value, navigating scarcity, logistics, trust, and global demand. A conversation that offers a deeper lens on the fine wine ecosystem—and where it is heading.

In this conversation:

• What auctions actually do—and why they exist

• How wine became a collectible asset (only recently)

• The role of knowledge in shaping demand and price

• What auctions reveal about the future of fine wine

To know more about Bonhams Wine: https://www.bonhams.com/department/WIN/wine/

To know more about Areni's latest research: The New Fine Wine Consumer: How Under 40 Find Their Way Into Fine Wine: https://areni.global/report/the-new-fine-wine-customer/

As part of Women’s History Month, we are sharing a revisited edition of a conversation first recorded in June 2021 during the Bâtonnage Forum—an initiative dedicated to advancing women in the wine industry.

In this episode, Pauline Vicard is joined by Jordan Sale, founder of 81cents, and Felicity Carter, now Editorial Director at Areni Global. Together, they explore a deceptively simple question: how much is enough?

The discussion examines gender pay gaps, negotiation behaviours, and what happens when an industry that has traditionally avoided conversations about money begins to engage with them more openly.

This conversation also had a lasting impact on Areni Global’s work. It contributed to a broader reflection on the structural challenges facing the wine trade—particularly its persistent lack of profitability—and the role that education may play in addressing them. These questions were later explored in our report: Rethinking Education: Shaping the Future of the Trade, available on our website.

For more information on Areni Global: https://areni.global/

For more information on the Batonnage Forum: https://www.batonnageforum.com/

What makes an allocated wine offering work — and when does it fail?

In this episode, Pauline Vicard sits down with Peter Yeung to unpack the mechanics behind scarcity in fine wine. From waitlists and wishlists to pricing strategy and sell-out psychology, they explore how allocation systems shape brand value and customer loyalty.

Drawing on insights from ARENI Global’s upcoming New Fine Wine Consumers study, they also examine why younger collectors approach wine like a video game: they don’t just want access — they want to understand the rules.

Because in fine wine, it’s not just about getting the bottle. It’s about playing the game — and belonging to the community.

For more information on Peter's course Allocated Wine Offerings, visit: https://www.xchateau.com/store/

Areni's study The New Fine Wine Consumer: How Under 40 Find Their Way Into Fine Wine launches on February 19. More info here: https://areni.global/new-consumers-new-narratives/

Why is the world drinking less — and do they really drink less fine wine?

For the first episode of 2026, Pauline and Felicity unpack one of the most pressing shifts reshaping the wine industry: global deconsumption.

Far from being a simple generational story, they reveal how economics, demographics, social change, regulation and new health narratives are collectively transforming alcohol consumption across every age group.

Drawing on Areni Global’s upcoming research on new fine wine consumers (launching Feb. 2026), they explore how economics, demographics, social change, regulation and new health narratives are transforming alcohol consumption across every age group, and how the fine wine sector must adapt to stay relevant.

This podcast series is part of a larger Areni Global research project. Subscribe to our newsletter to get access to our articles and publications: https://bit.ly/AreniNewsletter

Does spirituality have a role in winemaking?

Where else to have this conversation than in Burgundy, the region that claims 1,000 years of a wine history that began with monks. We sat down with Aubert de Villaine, co-owner of Domaine de la Romanée Conti, who is not just acknowledged as one of the greatest winemakers of all time, but also one of the most spiritual.

We were joined by Ted Lemon, owner of Littorai in Sonoma, a deep thinker, who articulated his vision for winemaking.

The conversation ranged across what spirituality means in the context of fine wine today, but also how it influenced the historic growth and development of wine.

It was the most unconventional discussion that Areni Global has ever hosted, but also one of the most meaningful.

For more articles, reports and insights on the future of fine wine, visit www.areni.global and subscribe to our newsletter.

What does terroir mean today? How does it differ from the idea of sense of place? Is terroir a matter of nature or nurture? Do these questions even matter today?

And if they do, how much does an understanding of terroir influence winemakers in their everyday work?

For this fifth episode of the Areni Live Series, we take you inside one of the most unfiltered and thought-provoking conversations we had during our 2025 think tank.

Gathered around Jacques Devauges, manager of the iconic Domaine des Lambrays in Burgundy, and Samantha O’Keefe, owner and winemaker of Lismore Wines in South Africa, a small group of fine minds from all around the world explore one of the geekiest, yet most fundamental, topics in fine wine today.

Behind the famous glazed roofs of Beaune lies a story where wine, care, and community are inseparable. Founded in the 15th century as a hospital for the poor, the Hospices de Beaune has evolved into one of the world’s most unique institutions — part working hospital, part wine estate, and a living expression of humanity, charity and hospitality.

In this fourth episode of the Areni Live Series, we sat down with Guillaume Koch, Director of the Beaune Civil Hospitals, and Ludivine Griveau, Winemaker and Estate Manager, to explore how the wines of the Hospices sustain local healthcare, preserve Burgundian heritage, and reflect deep human values.

Together, they explore:

• How a centuries-old hospital came to own — and still run — one of Burgundy’s most celebrated wine estates.
• The delicate balance between charity, healthcare, and fine wine.
• What Humanity, Charity, and Hospitality mean in practice for those who care for both people and vines.
• How the annual wine auction sustains local healthcare while shaping the global perception of Burgundy.
• Why understanding the Hospices de Beaune offers a deeper understanding of terroir itself.

Recorded live in the King’s Chamber of the Hospices, this conversation reveals how a centuries-old model continues to unite purpose, place, and people.

China has long been one of the most complex and fascinating markets for fine wine. Once driven by gifting and status, the market is now undergoing a dramatic reset — with consumers buying wine for themselves, new generations shaping demand, and logistics and e-commerce opening fresh possibilities.

In this episode of Areni Live Sessions, Felicity Carter speaks with Don St Pierre Jr., a pioneer of the Chinese wine trade and co-founder of ASC Fine Wines, about his surprising return to the market. Together, they explore:

• Why the old gifting culture collapsed — and what’s replacing it
• How consumer tastes are shifting, including the rise of white wine
• The role of storytelling in connecting producers with Chinese drinkers
• The impact of logistics and e-commerce on market access
• What international producers need to know about pricing, brand integrity, and regulation
• Why Don believes the Chinese fine wine market is poised for long-term growth

Whether you’re already exporting to China or just curious about its future, this episode offers valuable insight into the opportunities — and the challenges — shaping the next chapter of fine wine in China.

About the Series:

From impactful panels and roundtables to winery visits centred around case studies, this podcast gives listeners the opportunity to engage with the high level conversations recorded live at Areni Live 2025 Burgundy Edition that took place between July 1st and July 3rd 2025.

About Areni:

Areni Global is a research organisation dedicated to the future of fine wine. Areni Global helps wineries, distributors and retailers to understand how the world is changing, and how that creates risks to be managed and opportunities to be seized.

To subscribe to our newsletter: https://bit.ly/AreniNewsletter

What does success really mean in today’s fine wine sector? In this episode, recorded live at Domaine des Lambrays in Burgundy in July 2025, host Pauline Vicard is joined by three leading voices: Mathieu Jullien, CEO of Vins d’Exception at LVMH, Steve Smith MW, Managing Director of AONZ Fine Wine in New Zealand, and Pierre Mansour, Head of Wine at The Wine Society in the UK.

Together they explore how success can no longer be measured by profit and growth alone, but by the ability to create value, build reputation, and ensure wines are truly enjoyed. The conversation moves through five central themes: redefining what success looks like, reshaping fine wine strategies to meet changing demographics, the role of acquisitions in preserving heritage, how to create emotional connections with the next generation of wine lovers, the urgent need for sustainability, and the evolving challenges of distribution in Bordeaux and beyond.

This episode offers rare insight from three senior leaders with very different perspectives—cooperative, corporate, and entrepreneurial. Their reflections reveal both the challenges and opportunities that will define the fine wine sector in the years ahead.

An unmissable conversation for anyone who wants to understand where the future of fine wine is heading.

About the Series:

From impactful panels and roundtables to winery visits centred around case studies, this podcast gives listeners the opportunity to engage with the high level conversations recorded live at Areni Live 2025 Burgundy Edition that took place between July 1st and July 3rd 2025.

About Areni:

Areni Global is a research organisation dedicated to the future of fine wine. Areni Global helps wineries, distributors and retailers to understand how the world is changing, and how that creates risks to be managed and opportunities to be seized.

To subscribe to our newsletter: https://bit.ly/AreniNewsletter

The situation around wine, alcohol and health is complex, and a lot of important conversations are happening within the realm of public affairs, an area that most of the wine world doesn’t think much about.

What is the social context in which these changes to public health policy are happening? How serious is the threat to the wine industry? Does the medical and scientific evidence support the “no safe level” claim?

We asked three key personalities to help us understand what is happening, and what is at stake.

With Felicity Carter, founder of Drinks Insider, Julian Braithwaite, CEO of the International Alliance for Responsible Drinking (IARD) and Dr Laura Catena, founder of In Defense of Wineand managing director, Catena Zapata.

About the Series:

From impactful panels and roundtables to winery visits centred around case studies, this podcast gives listeners the opportunity to engage with the high level conversations recorded live at Areni Live 2025 Burgundy Edition that took place between July 1st and July 3rd 2025.

About Areni:

Areni Global is a research organisation dedicated to the future of fine wine. Areni Global helps wineries, distributors and retailers to understand how the world is changing, and how that creates risks to be managed and opportunities to be seized.

To subscribe to our newsletter: https://bit.ly/AreniNewsletter

In 2021, 30y old Burgundian winemaker Charles Lachaux was crowned Best Rising Star at the inaugural Golden Vines Awards, and the wine world lost its mind. Prices for his bottles skyrocketed on the secondary market, he was endorsed by President Macron, and suddenly this sixth-generation Burgundian was being hailed as the successor to Lalou Bize-Leroy.

But Lachaux’s rise didn’t begin with fame — and it hasn’t ended there either.

In this unusually frank conversation, Charles Lachaux joins Pauline Vicard to explain the sweeping changes he’s made to viticulture at his family estate in Vosne-Romanée: no tilling, no trimming, organic and biodynamic practices, and a firm belief in letting the vine “be.” He details how becoming a father clarified his approach to stewardship, why he uses ceramics instead of oak, and how his commitment to regenerative agriculture meant choosing quality over yield — even in the face of disastrous vintages.

We also go deep on the commercial fallout of success: why he pulled his wines from retail and changed his route to private clients, how NFTs are being used to track and reward consumption, and why he no longer submits his wines to wine critics.

An unfiltered look at the price of integrity in Burgundy — and what it means to build a legacy in a region that’s both tradition-bound and in flux.

Visit us at Areni Global to learn more about becoming a member and subscribe to our newsletter HERE.

Follow Areni on Instagram and Linkedin: @areniglobal

Pauline spent a few days in the Florida capital and sat down with key players. Here is what we learned about the incredibly dynamic, passionate, hungry and growing wine scene of a city that might change a thing or two for the future of fine wine.

Based in London, Laurence Whyatt is Head of European Beverages Research for Barclays Investment Bank, meaning that his job is to predict the future of alcohol consumption globally, so that companies can invest accordingly.

Drawing from his latest multi-year analysis, How Demographics and Economics Shape Global Alcohol Consumption, we answer some of the world of wine's burning questions on Gen Z, the role of women in premiumisation and the impact of cannabis and Ozempic on alcohol sales.

And if you want to know which markets represent the biggest opportunities for premium wine companies and why, stay tuned until the end of the episode.

This podcast series is part of a larger Areni Global research project. Subscribe to our newsletter to get access to our articles and publications: https://bit.ly/AreniNewsletter

How should leaders prepare to succeed in an impossible-to-predict world?

Elizabeth (Lizzy) Rudd is the Chair of Berry Bros. & Rudd, Britain’s oldest wine merchant.

Founded in 1698 at number 3 St James street in London, the company still occupies the same address 327 years later. But today, it offers more than 1,500 SKUs and stores more than 1.5 million cases of wine in a state-of-the-art warehouse in Hampshire. They also have offices in Tokyo, Hong Kong and Singapore, and sell to customers in more than 100 countries.

After more than three centuries, there aren’t many changesthat Berry Bros & Rudd haven’t seen. The company has survived wars, riots,geopolitical turmoil, the Great Depression and more minor recessions.

From their investment in regenerativeviticulture to the huge budget they allocate to digital transformation, Lizzy Rudd, the Chair, explains how the company is planning to thrive through yet another challenging time.

Visit us at Areni Global to learn more about becoming a member and subscribe to our newsletter HERE.

Follow Areni on Instagram and Linkedin: @areniglobal

What does the wine trade need to become more profitable?

At the very moment that everything is changing, it is important to take some time to evaluate professional wine education. Is it fit for purpose? How could a revised professional wine education answer some of our industry’s crucial issues?

Pauline Vicard and Felicity Carter present Areni's latest whitepaper key findings, based on 18 months of research.

They discuss:

• What needs to be on the curriculum to make the wine trade more profitable
• What remains core knowledge, but also what set of skills are missing from the curriculum
• The gap between what wine professionals love learning about and what they need to know, and how can this gap be bridged
• Who should offer this training

Get access to the full publication HERE.

Subscribe to our newsletter to get access to our articles and publications.

About your hosts:

Pauline Vicard is the co-founder and executive director of Areni Global, the leading organization dedicated to addressing the critical challenges facing fine wine.

Felicity Carter is Editorial Director of Areni Global, and also writes for numerous wine publications. We highly recommend her podcast Drinks Insider.