Chemist Confessions

Why popular over-the-counter ingredients might be falling short, how prescription options like low-dose tretinoin and spironolactone fit into the picture, and what a realistic, long-term management game plan looks like for aging, irritation-prone skin. Tune in to cut through the marketing noise and get the hard science on managing adult acne!

00:00 | HOT TAKE!

02:20 | The Four Biological Culprits of Breakouts

06:50 | Age Brackets & Defining Post-Adolescent Acne

09:16 | Persistent vs. Late-Onset Acne & Lifestyle Factors

11:37 | Spotlight on The Specialist Acid Booster

15:35 | Men vs. Women: Breaking Down the Prevalence Stats

23:23 | Hormones, DHT, and Systemic Factors

31:47 | Clinical Deep Dive: Low-Dose Tretinoin Efficacy

39:04 | Modern Retinoids Beyond Tretinoin

44:42 | Hot Takes on Salicylic Acid and Azelaic Acid

#skincarescience #acnecare

We spent three years developing our own mask tech, and it’s finally here! Meet CryoGoo, our lattice jelly peel-off mask, built to get around the material limits of traditional masks.

To celebrate, we are going down a mask tech rabbit hole with everyone. In this episode,we break down what a face mask actually needs to do: occlusion, hydration, and active delivery. Then we put fabric sheet masks, bio-cellulose, hydrogel, PVA wrapping masks, and alginate modeling masks to the test, covering the real pros, cons, and performance of each. And of course, last but not least, we go through what makes our CryoGoo different from everyone else.

LINKS & PRODUCTS Chemist Confessions CryoGoo Jelly Peel-Off Mask: https://chemistconfessions.com/products/cryogoo-cooling-jelly-peel-off-mask

Biodance Bio-Collagen Real Deep Mask: https://go.shopmy.us/p-95630015

Revision Skincare Biocellulose Mask: https://go.shopmy.us/p-95631114

Medicube Collagen Night Wrapping Mask: https://go.shopmy.us/p-95630093

Mediheal Derma Modeling Mask: https://go.shopmy.us/p-95630988

CC Podcast Products: https://shopmy.us/collections/4698294

Shop Favorites: https://shopmy.us/chemistconfessions

#skincarescience #sheetmask #cosmeticchemistry #newskincareproduct

In this special episode, we're joined by Rita Silva, Acting Director of Scientific Communications at DECIEM, for a deep dive into the science behind The Ordinary's popular peptide serums. From Multi-Peptide and Matrixyl to Argireline and the latest plant-derived growth factors, we're getting into the formulation history, clinical research, and what these products can realistically do for your skin.

And of course, we have to tackle some of your biggest peptide questions. Can you mix copper peptides with vitamin C? Are peptide serums worth adding to a retinoid routine? And where should a peptide beginner even start?

#skincarescience #sponsored #peptides #cosmeticchemist

PLEASE NOTE: In this episode, the original Skinceuticals CE Ferulic formula with only 15% ascorbic acid, 1% tocopherol, and 0.5% ferulic acid was tested for this episode. We dive into part two of our vitamin C series by putting popular C E Ferulic dupes to the test. Before revealing our side-by-side stability results, we go through a very helpful study from Slovenia examining 41 finished vitamin C products using HPLC testing to compare the quirks of various vitamin C derivatives—including L-ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid. Then we go through our 8 week test findings of 7 CE Ferulic dupes and compare them to the mother formula from Skinceuticals.

Shop our favorite C E Ferulic Dupes We've Tried Here: https://shopmy.us/collections/40252

Mentioned in Video & Liked! SKINCEUTICALS | C E Ferulic: https://go.shopmy.us/p-362235

TIMELESS SKIN CARE | 20% Vitamin C + E Ferulic Acid Serum: https://go.shopmy.us/p-362237

MAELOVE | The Glow Maker Serum: https://go.shopmy.us/p-362240

DRMTLGY | Vitamin C E + F Serum 30ml: https://go.shopmy.us/p-87127883

EDUCATED MESS | Golden Hour Gold-Stabilized Vitamin C Serum: https://go.shopmy.us/p-87128013

00:00 | Vitamin C Dupes Series Round 3 Overview

01:16 | Slovenian Study: Analyzing 41 Vitamin C Products with HPLC

06:31 | Comparing L-Ascorbic Acid Stability to the Other Vitamin C Derivatives

15:43 | Meet the Contenders: Pricing and Packaging of Popular Dupes

20:15 | Week 0 to Week 8: Accelerated Oven Stability Test Results

24:53 | Pump Disasters, Gas Buildup, and Sedimentation Issues

28:31 | pH Levels and Batch-to-Batch Consistency in Serums

33:23 | Top Affordable C E Ferulic Alternatives We Recommend

35:16 | Final Thoughts on Vitamin C Derivatives and Derivatives Wrap-Up

Don't forget to like, subscribe, and drop your favorite mineral SPF in the comments! #30for30 #SunscreenChallenge #SkincarePodcast

We dive into a science-heavy breakdown of vitamin C formulations, focusing on the recent updates to the gold-standard C E Ferulic serum. We explore the history of L-ascorbic acid efficacy studies dating back to the 1990s by Dr. Pinnell’s lab, highlighting the classic UV-induced erythema protocol used to validate antioxidant skin protection. Then, we analyze emerging clinical data around new CE Ferulic additions: carnosine and dandelion endophytol and discuss the available data to see if the chemists can figure out whether or not this is worth the Skinceuticals price tag.

00:00 | Intro! 03:15 | L-Ascorbic Acid: A Brief Review

12:48 | What is Dandelion Endophytol?

25:00 | Carnosine's Clinical UV MED Study

29:30 | Reviewing Carnosine's Clinical Testing

34:15 | The Challenges of Plant Extracts and Actives

38:30 | Chemists discuss CE Ferulic vs. CE Ferulic 2.0

41:45 | The Chemists' Feelings on Patents

Check out Soko Glam: Check out our products: https://sokoglam.com/collections/chemist-confessions?_pos=1&_psq=chemist+confessions&_psid=080163648&_ss=e

In celebrating our arrival on Soko Glam, we sat down with founder Charlotte Cho to dive deep into the real science, mechanics, and formulation realities behind K-Beauty. We break down the evolution of multi-step routines, the truths behind product categories like toners and essences, and why classic ingredients like snail mucin continue to hold up under scientific scrutiny. From the manufacturing hurdles of hot-pour cleansing balms to navigating US sunscreen filter regulations, we unpack what it takes to formulate effective products amidst viral TikTok trends.

If you enjoyed this deep dive, don't forget to LIKE, SUBSCRIBE, and hit the notification bell 🔔 for more science-backed skincare breakdowns! #sokoglam @sokoglam #skincarescience

#sponsored We’re taking a deep dive into the science behind K-Beauty brand Dr. Reju-All!

In this sponsored episode, we've partnered with Dr. Reju-All, to share some of their testing behind the products: the Advanced PDRN Rejuvenating Cream and their latest launch, the Advanced PDRN Copper Peptide Serum. We discuss their PDRN ingredient sourcing and why higher concentrations aren't always better—highlighting in vitro and clinical data showing why 1,200 ppm of salmon-derived PDRN is an optimal sweet spot for barrier recovery and hydration. We also analyze their Advanced PDRN Copper Peptide Serum, exploring how encapsulating delicate copper tripeptides helps maintain formula integrity, alongside its clinical results on heat-induced skin stress, elasticity, and fine lines. Finally, we share our real-world user experience on how to layer these unique gel-gel textures into your existing routine. #rejuall #pdrn #copperpeptide

• Dr. Reju-All Official Amazon Store: https://amzn.to/4gfUXI1.
• Dr. Reju-All Advanced PDRN Rejuvenating Cream: https://amzn.to/4gdo4LT.
• Dr. Reju-All Advanced PDRN Copper Peptide Serum: https://amzn.to/4gAJmo6. #drrejuvall #ad #pdrnserum

We’re cutting through the marketing fluff to decode five popular copper peptide serums! In this episode, we analyze the formulas, active ingredient combinations, and clinical data behind products from the Remedy, COSRX, Dr. Reju-All, The Ordinary, and Peach & Lily. We break down what these serums intend to treat, highlight potential formula overlap (like sneaky niacinamide and bakuchiol), and discuss the layering rules you may need to consider for your routine. Hear the chemists' perspective on where peptides fit into a smart anti-aging strategy.

Timestamps

00:01 | Copper Peptide Formula Breakdown Strategy

03:00 | Remedy Copper Peptide Complex Review

06:15 | COSRX Blue Peptide Bakuchiol Serum

15:39 | Dr. Reju-All PDRN Copper Peptide Serum

19:02 | The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + Copper Peptides

21:54 | The Orindary Copper Peptide Serum's Layering Restrictions

23:33 | Peach & Lily Copper Peptide Pro Serum

26:24 | Chemists Discuss Copper Peptide Category Efficacy

31:32 | Where Peptides Fit in Your Skincare Routine

#GHKCu #CopperPeptides #SkincareScience #FormulationScience #AntiAgingSkincare #SkincarePodcast #ChemistConfessions #30for30 #

🧪 Is GHK-Cu Overrated? The Science of Copper Peptides Explained Are Copper Peptides (GHK-Cu) actual anti-aging powerhouses, or just smart marketing hype?

In this video, we dive deep into the 50-year scientific history of GHK-Cu, breaking down the exact biological pathways behind collagen and elastin synthesis. We analyze the physiological realities of peptide size, molecular weight, and the famous 500 Dalton Rule to reveal how much of your product actually penetrates the skin barrier. And most importantly... all the theories and in vitro studies aside, what do the clinical studies REALLY say?

YouTube Timestamps

00:00 | Biological Role of Copper Peptides

02:55 | The Four Categories of Skincare Peptides

04:18 | What is the 500 Dalton Rule? (Skin Permeation Guidelines)

08:32 | GHK-Cu Molecular Weight & Permeability Limitations

18:41 | Copper Peptide better than Tretinoin? What the clinical data ACTUALLY say)

25:20 | Animal Fun Fact! Copper peptides in the animal kingdom

30:58 | Can you use copper peptide with vitamin C? Active Ingredient Incompatibilities & Layering Guidelines

🔗 Resources & Links Animal fun fact study for the curious: https://www.livescience.com/bloodworms-fangs-origins

Blank Slate Gel Cleanser https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser (add to cart and get the mini for free with code MINIME)

Our Sunscreen Database! https://www.chemistconfessions.com/sunscreen

If you enjoyed this deep dive, don't forget to LIKE, SUBSCRIBE, and hit the notification bell 🔔 for more science-backed skincare breakdowns!

#GHKCu #CopperPeptides #SkincareScience #FormulationScience #AntiAgingSkincare #SkincarePodcast #ChemistConfessions #30for30 #SunscreenChallenge

Description: We are tackling our top 10 sunscreen takeaways after four straight years of testing dozens of formulas in our 3430 series! From figuring out how much SPF you actually need to apply (and why we rating-split over the infamous Rich Area Hold Cream), we get into all the messy details. We also dive into eye-area stinging, why US mineral sunscreens hit differently, layering under makeup, handling acne flare-ups, and finding out if dropping to SPF 30 actually gives you better texture.

Timestamps
00:01:05 | How Much Sunscreen Should You Actually Apply?

00:03:22 | Why Did the Rich Area Hold Cream Get a Mediocre Rating?

00:05:51 | Can You Safe Apply Sunscreen to Eyelids Without Eye Stinging?

00:09:09 | Does Rubbing Sunscreen in Too Long Ruin the Protective Film?

00:12:09 | Are US Sunscreens Inferior to International Sunscreens?

00:15:47 | How Do You Layer Sunscreen Under Makeup Without Pilling?

00:18:00 | What Is the Best Replacement for Banana Boat Light as Air?

00:20:00 | Does Sunscreen Cause Acne Breakouts?

00:20:53 | Does Lowering to SPF 30 Offer Better Texture Than SPF 50?

00:25:17 | How Do You Proper Remove Water-Resistant Sunscreen?

Check out the rest of the sunscreen tested at chemistconfessions.com/sunscreen Don't forget to like, subscribe, and drop your favorite mineral SPF in the comments! #30for30 #SunscreenChallenge #skincarepodcast

WE ARE BACK! Our 30 for 30 sunscreen challenge continues by diving into the wild world of US chemical sunscreens! In this episode, we break down 13 different formulas—categorized by price point from budget-friendly drugstore finds to eye-watering luxury formulas.

TIMESTAMPS:

00:31 | US Chemical Sunscreens Overview

01:30 | Economical & Drugstore Sunscreens

05:11 | Neutrogena Sport Face SPF Review

07:01 | Testing Vacation Sunscreen & Pilling Issues

09:45 | Eucerin Tinted Chemical Sunscreen

13:05 | e.l.f. Suntouchable Silicone Texture

15:35 | Anua Invisible Matte & Numbuzin SPF

25:14 | Sephora & High-End Sunscreen Breakdown

28:48 | ISDIN Fusion Water Magic Performance

33:16 | Tatcha The Silken Sunscreen & Avobenzone Stability

Check out the rest of the sunscreen tested at chemistconfessions.com/sunscreen Don't forget to like, subscribe, and drop your favorite mineral SPF in the comments! #30for30 #SunscreenChallenge #SkincarePodcast

We are wrapping up the next leg of our #30for30 sunscreen challenge testing roundup! In this episode, we dive deep into the world of international sunscreens, putting five popular EU formulas and eight Asian sunscreens to the test. Plus, don't miss a hilarious, science-backed detour into the sophisticated culinary habits of cockatoos!

Products Mentioned:

• Avene Anti-Pigmentation Tinted Fluid https://go.shopmy.us/p-64086387

• La Roche Posay UVMune Tinted Fluid https://go.shopmy.us/p-67227007

• La Roche Posay UV Air Serum https://go.shopmy.us/p-71463108

• Geek & Gorgeous Zero Feel https://go.shopmy.us/p-68997384

• La Roche Posay UV Mune Hydration https://go.shopmy.us/p-67239571

• Curel Moisture Intensive Care https://go.shopmy.us/p-65141082

• Cell Fusion C Laser UV Defense https://go.shopmy.us/p-71465193

• Biore Watery Hold Cream https://go.shopmy.us/p-71465570

• Biore Rich Airy Hold Cream https://go.shopmy.us/p-71465508

• Canmake Mermaid Skin Gel Feel https://go.shopmy.us/p-71465758

• Anessa Moisture Perfect https://go.shopmy.us/p-71465924

• Rhoto Skin Aqua Hyaluronic Acid Serum https://go.shopmy.us/p-67228915

Check out the rest of the sunscreen tested at chemistconfessions.com/sunscreen Don't forget to like, subscribe, and drop your favorite mineral SPF in the comments! #30for30 #SunscreenChallenge #SkincarePodcast

The #30for30 Sunscreen Challenge is back, and we are officially kicking off our deep dive! In this episode, we’re breaking down the US mineral sunscreens we put to the test. From "accidental" foundations and heavy-duty rub-ins to luxury formulas that claim to erase wrinkles, we’re giving you the unfiltered truth on what’s worth your cash and what you should pass on. Grab your SPF, and let's get into the reviews!

Timestamps

0:00 - Intro 0:45 - Missha Perfect Cover: hybrid formula that's better as a foundation than standalone sunscreen

02:15 - Merit The Uniform: A solid coverage - SPF usage rate balance

04:00 - Bloomeffects Tulip Screen Dew Drops: serious glow, $$$$$

05:30 - CeraVe Invisible Mineral: okay daily basic, not for those in sweat-happy scenarios

07:15 - Kiehl’s Better Screen: Redness reduction & post-procedure stats

09:45 - SkinCeuticals Future Mineral: Luxury pricing vs. real anti-aging results

Products Mentioned

• Missha Perfect Cover BB Cream SPF 42 PA+++ ($24/50mL) go.shopmy.us/p-69775225

• Merit The Uniform Tinted SPF 45 ($38/50mL) go.shopmy.us/p-68610171

• Bloomeffects Tulip Screen Dew Drops SPF 50 ($39/30mL) go.shopmy.us/p-67231497

• CeraVe Invisible Mineral SPF 50 ($17/50mL) go.shopmy.us/p-69775395

• Kiehl’s Better Screen Miner-all UV Serum SPF 50 ($36/40mL) go.shopmy.us/p-69775593

• SkinCeuticals Future Mineral UV Defense SPF 50 ($60/50mL) go.shopmy.us/p-69775734

Check out the rest of the sunscreen tested at chemistconfessions.com/sunscreen Don't forget to like, subscribe, and drop your favorite mineral SPF in the comments! #30for30 #SunscreenChallenge #SkincarePodcast

Sunscreen database: https://chemistconfessions.com/sunscreen

Shop other products tested on the CC podcast here: https://shopmy.us/collections/4698294

Shop more of my favorite products here: https://shopmy.us/chemistconfessions

Instead of getting bogged down by marketing fluff, we dive deep into the real metrics of sunscreen performance: initial application speed, the science behind "watery breaks," and how a product's long-term finish affects different skin types. Listeners will walk away knowing exactly how to spot uneven film formation, navigate the nuances of water and friction resistance, and decode why certain formulas cause eye irritation or pilling so they can find their perfect, reliable daily match. #skincarescience #skincare #skincareroutine #sunscreen

Sunscreen database: https://chemistconfessions.com/sunscreen

Shop other products tested on the CC podcast here: https://shopmy.us/collections/4698294

Shop more of my favorite products here: https://shopmy.us/chemistconfessions

We are deep in sunscreen season, but unfortunately, it is also fear-mongering season. In this episode, we take a scientific look at prominent clean beauty advocacy voices like EWG and the Yuka app to untangle the science from the marketing fluff. We pull back the curtain on how these platforms analyze formulations, revealing why their extreme stances and rigid rating systems often lead to massive inconsistencies, misguided consumer fear, and ultimately, unsafe choices for your skin. By walking you through real-world formulation realities—from the stabilization challenges of zinc oxide to the actual toxicological safety profiles of chemical filters like octocrylene and vital preservatives like phenoxyethanol—we give you the context needed to tune out the noise. Tune in to ground yourself in cosmetic chemistry, find peace of mind, and gain the confidence to choose formulas that actually protect your skin daily without the unnecessary anxiety.

#skincarescience #skincare #skincareroutine

Sunscreen database: https://chemistconfessions.com/sunscreen

Shop other products tested on the CC podcast here: https://shopmy.us/collections/4698294

Shop more of my favorite products here: https://shopmy.us/chemistconfessions

We are starting of this series with tinted sunscreens. Navigating this category can feel like an existential crisis because these formulas are highly dependent on specific skin types and coverage needs. In this episode, we categorize this year's contenders by pigment level—ranging from completely sheer fluids to high-coverage, foundation-like hybrids, while analyzing the formulation realities behind heavy textures, solvent loads, and the myth of the "universal tint".

We are officially diving into the sunscreen segment to break down a burning, highly technical question for anyone tackling stubborn dark spots: is iron oxide a non-negotiable must-have for your hyperpigmentation routine?

Sunscreen database: https://chemistconfessions.com/sunscreen

Shop other products tested on the CC podcast here: https://shopmy.us/collections/4698294

Shop more of my favorite products here: https://shopmy.us/chemistconfessions

We are reviewing five popular K-Beauty products to see if they actually live up to the hype. We break down the science behind different PDRN sources, explore the "50 peptides" marketing claims, and analyze clinical data to separate realistic skin improvements from clever lighting tricks. You will learn how these products perform on different skin types—from "sticky and drying" textures to clinical-grade results—so you can decide which formulas are worth your routine and which are just "science-flavored" fillers.

Shop other products tested on the CC podcast here: https://shopmy.us/collections/4698294

IOPE | XMD Stem III Clinical Recovery Serum 50ml: https://go.shopmy.us/p-56645998

MEDIHEAL | PDRN Lifting Serum: https://go.shopmy.us/p-56646034

DR.REJU-ALL | Advanced PDRN Rejuvenating Cream 20ml: https://go.shopmy.us/p-56646069

REJURAN | Rejuran Turnover Ampoule C-PDRN 0.5% Renewing Serum for Smooth Texture & Glass Skin 1.01 Oz/30 mL: https://go.shopmy.us/p-56646122

NUMBUZIN | No.9 NAD+ PDRN Glow Boosting Toner: https://go.shopmy.us/p-56646193

Shop more of my favorite products here: https://shopmy.us/chemistconfessions

We take an objective look at two polar opposite formulas—a $20 "junior" product and a $250 luxury serum—to see if the high science matches the high price tag. We break down the mysteries of sourcing, discuss why your 1% active might not be what it seems, and share our honest (and sometimes smelly) trial experiences. Whether you’re looking for genuine rejuvenation or just want to avoid lighting $500 on fire, we’ve got the data you need to navigate this rapidly changing landscape.

Products Mentioned: Shop everything mentioned in this video here: https://shopmy.us/collections/4698294

Check out the better oil https://chemistconfessions.com/products/the-better-oil

Try our Mr. Reliable https://chemistconfessions.com/products/mr-reliable-lightweight-moisturizer

Check out our newly facelifted Double Play Retinol! https://chemistconfessions.com/products/double-play-retinol-face-eye-treatment
https://go.shopmy.us/p-51236391 MEDIK8 | Crystal Retinal 6 Serum: https://go.shopmy.us/p-51236422 (use code: CHEMISTCONFESSIONS for 15% off)
Shop more of my favorite products here: https://shopmy.us/chemistconfessions

#skincare #skincarescience #pdrnserum #pdrn #salmonpdrn

Chemist Confessions Minis! https://chemistconfessions.com/shop/kits&minis

We're pickup where we left off with another science update episode! Today, we're diving into another buzzy ingredient in the "longevity" space: PDRN. In this episode, we go beyond the "salmon sperm" headlines to investigate the latest science update on plant-derived PDRN from peony & rose, discuss the potential impact of molecular weight, and discuss early looks of unique PDRN delivery systems. Let's navigate the complex clinical data behind these DNA fragments and see if they actually match up to the marketing hype.

Products Mentioned: Shop everything mentioned in this video here: https://shopmy.us/collections/4698294

Check out the better oil https://chemistconfessions.com/products/the-better-oil

Try our Mr. Reliable https://chemistconfessions.com/products/mr-reliable-lightweight-moisturizer

Check out our newly facelifted Double Play Retinol! https://chemistconfessions.com/products/double-play-retinol-face-eye-treatment

https://go.shopmy.us/p-51236391

MEDIK8 | Crystal Retinal 6 Serum: https://go.shopmy.us/p-51236422 (use code: CHEMISTCONFESSIONS for 15% off)

Shop more of my favorite products here: https://shopmy.us/chemistconfessions

#skincare #skincarescience #pdrnserum #pdrn #salmonpdrn