Podcast
Facet Nation: A Gemmology Podcast
Facet Nation is a new kind of gemmology podcast. Rigorous enough for serious students, but fascinating and funny enough for anyone craving an inside look at gemstones, jewellery and the shadowy world surrounding them. Part revision aide, part storytime, Lucinda and Simon are your qualified guides to the world’s most ancient treasures.
- Episodes
- 44
- Releases
- Weekly
- Typical length
- 45 min
- On air since
- 2025
- Latest episode
- 1 day ago
Episodes
44 episodes, newest first
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1 hr 13 min
44. A Geology Lesson for Gemmologists with Emily Coulter
Season 2, Episode 44
Show notes
Geologist and Crystal Case Studies founder Emily Coulter joins Facet Nation hosts Lucinda and Simon to explain geology from the ground up, connecting Earth’s structure and moving plates to the environments where minerals and gemstones form. Her clear, food-based analogies make core concepts - from rock types to crystallisation - easier to understand, while the hosts bring a gemmology learner’s perspective and practical questions. Geologist Emily explains how magma chemistry, metamorphism and the rock cycle shape the rocks and gemstones we encounter. Simon and Lucinda ask the questions, connect the science to gemmology, and close with Emily’s favourite gems and where to find her.
• Emily Coulter traces her path from studying geology from age 12 to mineral wholesale, jewellery marketing, and founding Crystal Case Studies.
• Geology is the study of Earth and its processes across roughly 4.5 billion years; rocks and minerals preserve clues to that history.
• Minerals have a defined chemistry and ordered crystal structure, while rocks are usually mixtures of minerals; lapis lazuli is a gemstone that is also a rock.
• The hosts and Emily use a peach analogy for Earth’s crust, mantle, and core, and discuss differences between oceanic and continental crust.
• Plate boundaries include divergent, convergent, and transform settings; examples include the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, the Andes, the Himalayas, and the San Andreas Fault.
• Gem formation depends on the right ingredients, heat, pressure, fluids, and time; Emily contrasts metamorphic garnets with opal forming in a sedimentary basin.
• The three rock groups are igneous, sedimentary, and metamorphic; Emily explains how each forms and why metamorphic minerals may align under pressure.
• Intrusive igneous rocks cool underground and can develop larger crystals; extrusive rocks cool at the surface, while magma becomes lava once erupted.
• Igneous chemistry ranges from silica-poor ultramafic and mafic rocks to silica-rich felsic rocks such as granite and rhyolite. Emily compares runny basaltic lava with viscous felsic magma, explaining why felsic eruptions can trap gas and explode.
• Fractional crystallization sorts minerals as magma cools: olivine can form early, while feldspar crystallizes later.
• Pegmatites cool slowly and can contain exceptionally large crystals, as well as concentrated incompatible elements such as lithium and beryllium.
• Emily describes metamorphism as recrystallization without melting, and names garnet, ruby, sapphire, spinel and kyanite among metamorphic gems and minerals.
• Regional metamorphism is associated with mountain-building pressure; contact metamorphism heats surrounding rock, while metasomatism involves chemically active fluids.
• Fluid-driven alteration is important in Colombian emerald formation, where separated ingredients can meet and recrystallize.
• The rock cycle continually recycles material among igneous, sedimentary and metamorphic rocks over geological time.
• Weathering breaks rock down, erosion transports it, and deposition can concentrate dense gems and gold in river gravels.
• Emily shares her interest in unusual amethyst localities, including Jackson Crossroads in Georgia, and her love of garnet varieties.Takeaways
• Geology, put really, really simply, is the study of Earth and the processes that make up the Earth.
• We're essentially like picking up on the writing of what Earth has left us.
• Minerals, there is like a set definition for a mineral, which is a naturally occurring solid with a defined chemistry and an ordered crystal structure.
• Rocks, on the other hand, are normally mixtures of minerals.
• You want something fiery going on. You want some heat, you want some pressure, you want some fluids.
• The longer that they are in a fluid, the longer that they are able to move around and be mobile and connect with each other and go and hold hands, the bigger the result is.
• Intrusive means below the Earth's surface. Extrusive means above the Earth's surface.
• The moment it gets above the Earth's crust, it is erupted or extruded like toothpaste. It becomes lava.
• The three environments within geology where all rocks form are sedimentary, metamorphic and igneous.
• The more quartz something has, the more viscous it is. The more felsic a rock is, thicker it is.
• They crystallise in sequence and basically are minerals that are able to crystallise at higher temperatures, crystallise first.
• I think of this as all of the elements having time to find their friends.
• They don't like it and they rearrange themselves. They're not melting. It is not melting. It is recrystallisation without melting.
• The key element of metasomatism is the fact that those mineral rich fluids are interacting with the minerals that they're coming into contact with.
• Rocks, like elements within the earth and on the earth are continually being recycled and reused in different ways.
• Weathering, earth processes like wind, rain, ice, weather things down.
• Erosion moves them away from there, like from where they were living before.
• I feel like it's easy for people to not realise necessarily how recycled everything is.
• I love making Gemstone friends with people.Key Frameworks
• Fractional crystallisation
• The rock cycle
• Regional, contact and fluid-driven metamorphismSound Bites
• "I have fear of being involved."
• "They crystallise in sequence"
• "they want to be dropped."Chapters
00:00
Meet geologist Emily Coulter and hear her path into gems05:46
A beginner-friendly definition of geology06:58
What makes a mineral different from a rock08:55
Granite, basalt, limestone and marble11:21
Earth’s layers and the peach analogy14:18
Oceanic and continental crust, plus magnetic stripes17:57
How moving plates shape Earth’s surface20:27
Divergent boundaries and new oceanic crust22:26
Subduction zones, mountain building and transform faults25:17
Why heat, pressure and fluids matter for gemstones26:27
The conditions minerals need to crystallize28:33
Opal’s slow formation in a sedimentary basin31:06
The three rock types, simply explained33:10
How pressure gives metamorphic rocks their texture35:18
Intrusive versus extrusive igneous rocks38:10
Mafic, ultramafic and felsic chemistry40:21
How magma changes as it rises through the crust40:50
Why felsic magma erupts explosively44:01
Fractional crystallization sorts minerals as magma cools47:02
Pegmatites, giant crystals and lithium-rich melts50:47
Metamorphic rocks and Emily’s Scottish garnet story53:23
Ruby, sapphire, spinel and the challenges of kyanite55:08
Regional, contact and fluid-driven metamorphism58:14
How fluids help form Colombian emeralds01:00:03
The rock cycle: how rocks are recycled01:02:17
Weathering, erosion and the journey of river gems01:05:13
Emily’s geology takeaways and favorite gems01:08:05
Collecting unusual amethyst and different garnets01:11:17
Where to find Emily and the show’s sign-offgeology basics, rocks and minerals, gemstone formation, tectonic plates, igneous rocks, metamorphic rocks, sedimentary rocks, crystallisation, gemmology, Emily Coulter geology, gemstones, gemmology, fractional crystallisation, pegmatites, metamorphic rocks, rock cycle, volcanic eruptions, garnet, amethyst, gemology
Instagram: @crystalcasestudies
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43 min
43. Halloween Spooktacular 2026 - Haunted Gems
Season 2, Episode 43
Show notes
Lucinda's favourite time of year.
The Spooktacular returns for Halloween 2026.
Join us as we explore the fascinating world of haunted gemstones, ghost stories linked to jewellery, and the mysterious history behind some of the UK's most intriguing ghost tales. Discover the stories, history, and cultural significance of these spectral legends.
The difference between curses and hauntings in gemmology
Historical ghost stories linked to jewellery and gemstones
The story of Lady Ingram's lost pearl necklace and her ghost
The Cheapside Horde and its ghostly apparitions
The legend of the Lady in Red and her lost engagement ring
Queen Elizabeth's pearls and ghostly sightings in Rye
The significance of pearls in ghost stories and folklore
sound bites
"The Cheapside Horde was buried for 300 years."
"The woman on the fifth floor was called Rose."
"Pearls symbolise purity and religious devotion."
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Haunted Gemstones and Ghost Stories
01:54 The Difference Between Cursed and Haunted Gemstones
05:05 Lady Ingram's Pearl Necklace and Her Spirit
10:09 The Cheapside Horde and Its Ghostly Encounters
14:56 The Legend of the Lady in Red and the Midsummer's Ring
20:00 Queen Elizabeth's Pearls and Ghostly Sightings in Rye
25:00 The Significance of Pearls in Ghost Lore
29:58 Historical and Cultural Reflections on Haunted Jewellery
haunted gemstones, ghost stories, jewellery history, UK ghost tales, gemmology, paranormal, historical mysteries, spooky stories, ghostly legends, jewellery folklore, uncanny ghost stories, gemology, spooky, halloween, horror, intrigue, mystery
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41 min
42. Garnet: Part Two - Tsavorite, Faberge and the fate of Campbell Bridges
Season 2, Episode 42
Show notes
In part two, we explore the Ugrandite series of garnets, including their chemistry, history, and the stories behind famous varieties like Tsavorite and Demantoid. Join us for a deep dive into gemstone lore, geology, and the vibrant stories that make these stones so captivating.
key topics
The isomorphous series of garnets and their chemical formulas
The story of tsavorite's discovery and its geological background
The history and lore of demantoid garnet and its connection to Faberge
The marketing and storytelling aspect of gemstone branding
Different varieties of garnets including grossular, andradite, and uvarovite
The significance of inclusions and their identification in garnets
The story of Campbell Bridges and the discovery of tsavorite in Africa
The cultural and historical significance of garnets in jewelrysound bites
"Garnets are part of two isomorphous series."
"Tsavorite was discovered in the 1960s in Zimbabwe."
"Uvarovite is a tiny, beautiful green garnet."Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Garnets and Episode Overview
01:57 The Isomorphous Series of Garnets Explained
07:56 Discovery and Geology of Tsavorite in Africa
14:56 The Story of Demantoid Garnet and Faberge
28:02 Varieties of Garnets: Grossular, Tsavorite, and More
40:05 The Lore, Inclusions, and Market of Garnets
44:01 The Tragic Tale of Campbell Bridges and Tsavoritegarnets, gemstone lore, tsavorite, demantoid, geology, jewellery, gemstone stories, mineralogy, gemmology, gemology, gems, Tiffany, Campbell Bridges, science
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58 min
41. Interview: Arya Akhavan returns! Growing Exotic and Novel Lab Sapphires
Season 2, Episode 41
Show notes
Arya Akhavan returns! To reveal the secrets he couldn't disclose last time.
Arya has been growing sapphires! And not just any sapphires, every colour of sapphire you can imagine.
A gemologist and scientist, Arya shares groundbreaking insights into synthetic gemstone production, including sapphire growth, colour manipulation, and future innovations. Discover how science and passion are transforming the gem industry and what it means for collectors, faceters and jewellers alike.
Get involved by joining 'The Gemstone Lab' kickstarter here:
Groundbreaking sapphire growth techniques
Chemical processes in gemstone creation
The role of computer modeling in gemmology
Market implications of synthetic versus natural gems
Innovations in gemstone colour and treatments
Challenges in sourcing synthetic materials
Future projects in gemstone research
The impact of technology on gem cutting and designsound bites
"We want to do this scientifically, rigorously."
"Some synthetics are more rare than natural gems."
"Market perceptions have diverged completely."Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Arya Akhavan and his work
02:54 Chemical processes in sapphire creation
06:18 Modeling and reverse engineering natural sapphires
08:34 Market trends and consumer preferences for synthetics
12:20 Industrial applications of synthetic gemstones
17:46 Market perception and the future of synthetic gems
22:37 Unique features of synthetic gemstones and market demand
28:43 Market diversification and consumer behavior
34:14 The evolution of synthetic gemstone marketing
43:56 Research and development in gemstone science
50:19 Current progress and future plans for gemstone synthesis
54:07 Closing thoughts and upcoming projectssynthetic gemstones, sapphire growth, gemmology, gemology, gemstone science, lab-grown gems, gemstone colour, gemstone innovation, gem industry, gemstone research, gem cutting, faceting, lapidary, kickstarter, coloured gemstones
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39 min
40. Season 2: Garnet Part One
Season 2, Episode 40
Show notes
Hello and welcome back to Season 2 of Facet Nation: A Gemmology Podcast
In this episode, we explore the fascinating world of garnets, their varieties, history, and gemmological properties, revealing insights that will deepen your understanding of these captivating gemstones.
key topics
Garnet varieties and their chemical compositions
Historical significance and trade of garnets
Gemmological properties and identification techniques
The spectrum of garnet colours and their causes
Hybrid garnet varieties and their market value
The importance of locality and deposit sources
Chemical formulas and systems of garnet classification
Inclusions and phenomena in garnet stones
The story behind the names and trade names of garnetssound bites
"Most garnets you see are that common brownish red."
"The Ugrandite series has calcium fixed and Y variable."
"Garnet spectrum goes thick, thin, thick, thin."Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Garnets and Episode Overview
02:01 Common Misconceptions About Garnet Colours
04:08 The Diversity of Garnet Varieties and Their Names
05:32 Historical Trade and Significance of Garnets
07:00 Chemical Foundations of Garnet Classification
09:06 The Pyrope and Almandine Series Explained
11:02 Understanding Garnet Spectra and Colour Variations
12:52 The Rich History of Garnet Use in Jewellery
15:10 The Discovery and Naming of Rhodolite Garnet
17:00 Identifying and Differentiating Garnet Types
18:58 Inclusions, Phenomena, and Cutting Challenges
21:00 Localities and Market Trends for Garnets
23:00 The Fascinating World of Pyrope and Spessartine Garnets
25:08 The Unique Colours and Market Value of Spessartine
26:54 The Story of Malaya Garnet and Its Cultural Significance
29:02 Summary and Final Thoughts on Garnet Diversitygarnets, gemstone varieties, gemmology, almandine, pyrope, spessartine, Ugrandite, gem deposits, gemstone history, bohemian garnets, jewellery, gems, science, learning, education, study
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19 min
39. Season 2 Preview and Summer Catch Up Bonus
Season 2, Episode 39
Show notes
In this mini episode, Simon shares his summer adventures including gem mining in Oregon, visiting the Spectrum Sunstone Mine, and participating in gemmology events. Lucinda discusses her new gemmology brand, TikTok presence, and recent travels, highlighting the vibrant gem community and upcoming events.
Gem mining in Oregon
Spectrum Sunstone Mine visit
Gemmology events and community outreach
Lucinda's new gemmology brand and TikTok presence
Travel stories and gem history insightssound bites
"Met some amazing people in Oregon"
"Spotted a cougar in the wild"
"Check out my new gemmology brand, Cunning Folk"Chapters
00:00 Introduction and episode overview
02:09 Memorable encounters and wildlife in Oregon
03:00 Exploring Oregon’s history and hot springs
06:58 Meet George, the versatile genius
08:02 Sunstone mining and collecting experiences
09:43 Gem community events and upcoming gatherings
14:34 Lucinda’s gemmology brand and social media launch
15:26 Lucinda’s trip to California and museum highlights
16:18 Lucinda’s UK adventures and historical sites
17:37 Season updates and upcoming episodesgemmology, Oregon sunstone, gemstone mining, gem events, gem community, TikTok gemmology, Spectrum Sunstone Mine, gem education
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42 min
38. End of Season 1: Fashioning Part Two - Gemstone faceting techniques
Season 1, Episode 38
Show notes
This episode explores the intricate process of diamond manufacturing, from designing and marking to shaping, faceting, and polishing. Hosted by gemmologists Simon and Lucinda, it offers detailed insights into cutting techniques, tools, and the science behind creating stunning gemstones.
End of Season One. THANK YOU FOR LISTENING.
We will be back, enjoy your summer
key topics
Diamond designing and marking
Dividing and cleaving methods
Shaping and faceting techniques
Polishing and final finishing
Tools and equipment used in gem cuttingMastering Diamond Cutting: From Rough to Brilliant
The Art and Science of Gemstone Facetingsound bites
"Only diamond can cut a diamond"
"Lasers cut diamonds in twenty minutes"
"Start with the pavilion, then the crown"Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Diamond Manufacturing
02:35 The Process of Cutting Diamonds
05:13 Dividing and Shaping Diamonds
08:03 Bruting and Faceting Diamonds
10:28 The Role of Technology in Diamond Cutting
13:26 Understanding Diamond Facets and Angles
15:46 Lapidary: The Art of Gemstone Cutting
18:48 Understanding Facet Diagrams
21:24 Dopping Techniques and Adhesives
24:49 The Faceting Process Begins
28:19 Grit Sequence and Polishing
32:31 Cutting the Crown Facets
36:58 Final Steps and Reflections
39:49 Looking Ahead: Future Plans and Wrap-Upresources
Gemology Project - Facet Diagrams - https://gemologyproject.com
Ultratech Gem Faceting Machines - https://ultratec.com
Andrew Ian Brown's Gemstone Design Books - https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Andrew+Ian+Brown+gemstone+designInstagram - https://instagram.com/gemmology_si
diamond manufacturing, gemmology, faceting, cutting techniques, gemstone design, diamond polishing, gemmology course, gemstone tools, gemmology education
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50 min
37. Gemstone Fashioning Part One: An Overview for Gemmology Study
Season 1, Episode 37
Show notes
In this episode, Lucinda and Simon explore the fascinating world of gemstone cutting and fashioning, covering essential terminology, techniques, and historical insights crucial for gemologists and enthusiasts alike.
key topics
Gemstone cutting terminology
Differences between lapidary and diamond manufacturing
Factors influencing gemstone cut decisions
Historical gem cutting techniques and innovations
Practical tips for evaluating rough stonesGem Cutting Vocabulary
Diamond Manufacturing Process
Gemstone Cut OptimizationReview gemstone terminology regularly
Practice evaluating rough stones before cutting
Explore historical gem cutting techniquesTitles
Mastering Gemstone Cutting: Techniques, History, and Industry Insights
The Art and Science of Gem Cutting: A Comprehensive Guidesound bites
"The old mine cut has a rich history."
"Inlays and carvings add artistic value."
"A break in gem cutting is coming soon."Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Cutting Gemstones
03:01 The Importance of Understanding Gemstone Cuts
05:43 Insights from Gem Cutting Experts
08:26 The Process of Fashioning Gemstones
11:09 Types of Gemstone Fashioning
13:58 Evaluating Rough Gemstones
16:37 Key Factors in Gemstone Cutting
19:13 Understanding Diamond Manufacture
21:58 Historical Perspectives on Gem Cutting
24:42 Modern Trends in Gem Cutting
27:24 Conclusion and Future of Gem Cutting
29:12 Understanding Diamond Cuts and Their History
32:29 The Anatomy of a Diamond: Key Features
34:51 Exploring Brilliant Cut Stones
36:42 Step Cuts vs. Brilliant Cuts: A Comparison
38:04 The Evolution of Rose Cuts and Mixed Cuts
40:32 Fantasy Cuts: The Art of Gemstone Cutting
41:35 Cabochons: The Gateway to Gem Cutting
44:25 Beads, Cameos, and Intaglios: Decorative Techniques
46:10 Carvings, Inlays, and Mosaics: Artistic ExpressionsThe V&A Museum Gem Collection - https://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/gems
UK Facet Cutters Guild - https://ukfcg.org/guest links
Instagram - https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology
Email - mailto:facetnation@facetnation.co.ukgemmology, gemstone cutting, gem fashioning, gemmology exam, gem cutter, gemstone shapes, diamond manufacturing, gemmology history, gemstone grading, jewellery industry
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53 min
36. Interview: Michelle Mai - Cutting and Designing Gemstones
Season 1, Episode 36
Show notes
Join Lucinda, Simon, and Michelle Mai as they explore the art and science of precision gem cutting. Discover techniques, tools, design principles, and the inspiring journey of a master gem cutter in this engaging episode.
Precision gem cutting techniques
Tools and machinery for faceting
Design principles for gemstones
Materials used in gem cutting
The journey of a gem cutterGuest name
Michelle MaiTitles
Mastering Precision Gem Cutting: Techniques and Inspiration
The Art and Science of Gem Faceting with Michelle Maisound bites
"Equipment is a huge barrier to entry"
"Polishing quartz is challenging for me"
"Start with cabochons to learn the basics"Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Precision Gem Cutting
08:09 Michelle's Journey into Gem Cutting
10:53 Understanding Gem Cutting Machinery
13:09 The Learning Curve in Gem Cutting
15:57 Design Principles in Gem Cutting
18:57 Challenges with Different Gem Materials
21:36 Creating Unique Gem Designs
24:36 The Role of Light in Gem Performance
27:00 Inspiration Behind Michelle's Designs
29:59 Favorite Designs and Techniques
32:31 Conclusion and Future Aspirations
35:41 Exploring Favourite Materials in Gem Cutting
37:53 Natural vs. Synthetic Gemstones: A Balanced Perspective
39:48 Navigating Risk and Responsibility in Gem Cutting
44:08 Advice for Aspiring Gem Cutters
51:04 Encouragement for Beginners in Lapidary Artsresources
Amateur Gemstone Faceting Volume One by Tom Herbst - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V4V7V4X
UK Facet Cutters Guild - https://www.ukfcg.org/
Gem Cut Studio - https://gemcutstudio.com/
Reddit r/shinypreciousgems - https://www.reddit.com/r/shinypreciousgems/guest links
Reddit - https://www.reddit.com/user/MichelleMai
Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/michellemai/gem cutting, gemmology, precision faceting, gemstone design, gem tools, gemstone materials, gem industry, gem education
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40 min
35. Tourmaline Part II: The King of Tourmaline...?
Season 1, Episode 35
Show notes
In this episode of FacetNation, Simon and Lucinda delve into the fascinating world of tourmaline, particularly focusing on its significance in San Diego's gemstone history and the impact of the Dowager Empress Cixi on the pink tourmaline market. They explore the rise and fall of the tourmaline industry, the unique characteristics of the stone, and the methods used to identify it. The conversation is rich with historical anecdotes and insights into the gemmology field, making it an engaging listen for enthusiasts and newcomers alike. Also in this episode, Lucinda and Simon delve into the fascinating world of tourmaline, exploring its color variations, treatments, and the rise of Paraiba tourmaline as a highly sought-after gemstone. They discuss the geological origins of Paraiba tourmaline, its global appeal, and highlight famous examples, including the Ethereal Carolina Divine Paraiba. The episode concludes with a look at the stunning Liddicoat tourmaline slice, showcasing the beauty and complexity of this remarkable gemstone.
Tourmaline is a significant gemstone with various types.
San Diego has a rich history of gemstone mining.
The Dowager Empress Cixi played a crucial role in popularising pink tourmaline.
Zixi's love for pink tourmaline influenced the gemstone market.
The decline of the tourmaline market followed Cixi's death.
Testing tourmaline requires specific techniques due to its colour variations.
Tourmaline can be mistaken for other gemstones.
Historical context enhances the value of gemstones.
Gemstones often have fascinating stories behind them.
Understanding gemstone history can enrich appreciation for them. Some stones show two completely different colours.
Watermelon tourmalines need both pleochroic responses listed.
Tourmaline can be treated to enhance colour.
Paraiba tourmaline is the most valuable type.
The discovery of Paraiba tourmaline changed the market.
Paraiba tourmaline's price skyrocketed due to rarity.
Geological events created the conditions for tourmaline formation.
Nigerian and Mozambican tourmalines are similar to Brazilian Paraiba.
Famous tourmalines often have historical significance.
The Liddicoat tourmaline slice is a stunning example of tourmaline beauty.The Allure of Tourmaline: A Gemstone Journey
Unveiling San Diego's Gemstone Secrets
The Legacy of the Dowager Empress Cixi
Tourmaline: From Mine to Market"She banned foot binding."
"It's a serious bottleneck."
"It's called Heitorita."
"It looks like stained glass."Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Tourmaline Part Two
02:30 Exploring San Diego's Gemstone History
05:57 The Dowager Empress Cixi and Pink Tourmaline
17:20 The Decline of the Tourmaline Market
18:22 Testing Tourmaline: Identification Techniques
22:01 Understanding Tourmaline's Colour Variations
25:01 The Treatment and Enhancement of Tourmaline
26:17 The Discovery of Paraiba Tourmaline
30:39 The Rise of Paraiba Tourmaline's Value
34:00 Geological Origins of Paraiba Tourmaline
38:25 The Global Appeal of Paraiba Tourmaline
39:05 Famous Paraiba Tourmalines and Their Significance
42:30 The Liddicoat Tourmaline Slice and Its Beautytourmaline, gemstones, San Diego, Dowager Empress Cixi, gemmology, pink tourmaline, gemstone testing, history, gem market, California tourmaline, Paraiba tourmaline, gemstone treatment, colour variations, gemmology, gemstone value, geological origins, famous gemstones, Liddicoat tourmaline
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38 min
34. Gemstone Colour: Charge Transfer and Colour Centres
Season 1, Episode 34
Show notes
Explore the fascinating science of gemstone colour, focusing on charge transfer mechanisms, the role of ions, and how treatments like heat affect gemstone hues. Perfect for gemmology enthusiasts and professionals alike.
key topics
Charge transfer in gemstones
Colour centres and defects
Effects of heat treatment on gemstone colour
Titles
The Science Behind Gemstone Colours: Charge Transfer Explained
Unlocking the Secrets of Sapphire and Diamond Colours
sound bites
"Blue sapphire's colour is a football match of ions."
"Charge transfer mechanisms reveal gemstone secrets."
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Colour in Gemmology
02:53 Understanding Charge Transfer in Gemstones
05:35 Oxygen to Metal Charge Transfer
08:28 Metal to Metal Charge Transfer: The Sapphire Story
10:58 Organic Molecular Electron Transition
16:22 Colour Centres in Diamonds
22:39 The Science of Synthetic Diamonds
25:27 Understanding Green Diamonds
27:44 The Mystery of Pink Diamonds
30:48 Exploring Colour Centers in Diamonds
35:28 The Future of Gemmology and Podcasting
resources
Gem-A Gemmology Course - https://gem-a.com/education
Instagram - https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology
Email - mailto:facetnation@facetnation.co.uk
gemmology, gemstone colour, charge transfer, sapphire, diamond, heat treatment, colour centres, spectroscopy, mineralogy
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42 min
33. Tourmaline Part One: Conquistadors and the party where everyone's invited
Season 1, Episode 33
Show notes
Join us as we explore the fascinating world of tourmaline, its formation, varieties, and historical significance, with insights from gemmologists Lucinda and Simon.
Tourmaline's chemical complexity and isomorphous series
Formation of tourmaline in pegmatites and metamorphic rocks
Varieties of tourmaline and their unique features
Historical lore and the myth of pyroelectricity
Testing and identifying tourmaline in gemmologySimon and Lucinda
Titles
The Hidden World of Tourmaline: From Conquistadors to Colourful Crystals
Unlocking the Secrets of Tourmaline: Varieties, Formation, and Loresound bites
"Paraiba tourmalines glow like neon blue."
"Rubellite is the most popular tourmaline."
"Rubellite is a deep, moody red."Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Facet nation and Personal Updates
04:26 Shout Outs and Community Engagement
08:38 Exploring Tourmaline: A Gemstone Overview
12:59 The Chemistry and Characteristics of Tourmaline
17:28 Historical Significance and Unique Properties of Tourmaline
20:26 The Science Behind Tourmaline
24:17 Formation of Tourmaline
29:24 Varieties of Tourmaline
36:40 Favourite Tourmalines and Their Unique QualitiesInstagram - https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology
tourmaline, gemstones, gemmology, mineral formation, jewellery, gem varieties, gemstone history, gem testing, gem inclusions
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28 min
32. Causes of Gemstone Colour: Dispersed Metal Ions
Season 1, Episode 32
Show notes
This episode explores the science behind gemstone colours, focusing on dispersed metal ions, valency states, atomic environments, and their effects on colour and luminescence. Hosted by Lucinda and Simon, it combines scientific insights with personal reflections and industry tips.
Dispersed metal ions and their role in gemstone colour
Valency states of transition metals and their effects
Atomic environment and its influence on gemstone hue
Luminescence and fluorescence in gemstones
Energy transfer and electron excitation in gemologyEnergy transfer in electrons
Valency and atomic environment influence on colour
Colour change effect in gemstonesReview the valency states of transition metals in your gemstone collection
Use a spectroscope to observe absorption bands and fluorescence
Experiment with heating and irradiation to alter gemstone colorsThe Science of Gemstone Color: Dispersed Metal Ions and Atomic Environments
Unlocking Gem Colors: Valency, Atomic Environment, and Light"Light as packets of energy excite electrons."
"Atomic arrangement affects gemstone colour."
"Chromium electrons jump, causing fluorescence."Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Colour in Gemmology
02:50 Philosophical Reflections on Energy and Colour
05:31 Understanding Ions and Their Role in Colour
08:03 The Impact of Valency State on Gemstone Colour
10:47 Atomic Environment and Colour Variations
13:30 The Role of Chromium in Colour Change
16:16 Luminescence and Its Connection to Colour
18:56 Fluorescence and Crystal Defects
21:25 Conclusion and Future Topicsresources
Gem-A (Gemological Association of Great Britain) - https://gem-a.com
Spectroscope and Light Source Information - https://www.gemologyonline.com
Simon and Lucinda's Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/facetnationgemmology/gemmology, gemstone colour, dispersed metal ions, valency, atomic environment, luminescence, gemstone spectroscopy, Alexandrite, ruby, emerald
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55 min
31. Interview: Ian Dun FGAA FGSGA, Federal President Gemmological Association of Australia
Season 1, Episode 31
Show notes
This week we are joined by Ian Dun, president of the Gemological Association of Australia. Discover insights into gemstone grading, Australian gemstones, and the future of gemological research. Of Particular interest is GAA's, world first, Opal Studies Course. Come and listen to find out all you need to know.
key topics
Gemological education and certification in Australia
Australian gemstones: Opal, Sapphire, and more
Advances in gemstone grading and identificationguest name
Ian DunTitles
Unlocking the Secrets of Gemmology with Ian Dun
Australian Gemstones: A Deep Dive into Opal and Moresound bites
"Welcome to Facet Nation, a gemmology podcast."
"Opal is misunderstood and polarizing."
"Australian opal is my favourite gemstone."Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Facet Nation and Ian Dun
01:52 Ian Dun's Gem Story and Career Path
08:49 The Gemological Association of Australia: History and Courses
12:55 Diploma of Diamond Technology and Practical Grading
21:42 The Online Opal Course: Development and Purpose
23:39 The Journey of Opal: From Mine to Market
27:36 Understanding the Opal Course: Structure and Feedback
29:21 The Allure of Opal: Personal Perspectives
34:19 Opal's Renaissance: Trends and Design Innovations
38:19 Research and Future of Opal Studies
40:39 Exploring Other Australian Gemstones
52:32 The Future of Gemmology: Education and Career PathsResources
Gemological Association of Australia - https://www.gem.org.au/Opal Course - https://www.gem.org.au/courses/opal-studies/
CIBJO Opal Guide - https://www.cibjo.org/
keywords
gemmology, gemstones, Australian gemstones, gemstone grading, gemmological education, opal, diamond, jewellery design, opal study, education -
41 min
30. Colour: Physical Optics and Colour Phenomena
Season 1, Episode 30
Show notes
Explore the fascinating world of physical optics in gemstones, focusing on iridescence, thin film interference, and the science behind colour phenomena like labradorescence and opalescence. Perfect for budding gemologists and enthusiasts alike.
key topics
Physical optics in gemstones
Iridescence and wave interference
Thin film interference in gem materialsUnveiling Gemstone Colours: The Science of Iridescence and More
The Hidden Physics of Gemstone Beauty: A Deep Divesound bites
"Iridescence is caused by wave interference."
"Labradorescence is due to the chemistry of feldspar."
"Pearlescence results from stacked layers of aragonite."Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Physical Optics
02:09 Understanding Iridescence
11:00 Exploring Twin Planes and Their Effects
14:11 The Fascination of Labradorescence and Adularescence
20:03 The Nature of Light and Colour
21:06 Exploring Rainbow Moonstone
22:28 The Allure of Pearls
25:06 Understanding Iridescence in Pearls
28:27 The Mystique of Opals
36:52 Reflections on Quality and Value in Gemstonesresources
Facet Nation Podcast - https://youtube.com/@facetnationukguest links
Instagram - https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology
TikTok - https://tiktok.com/@facet.nation.pod
Email - mailto:facetnation@facetnation.co.ukgemmology, physical optics, iridescence, labradorescence, opalescence, gemstone science, thin film interference, gemstone phenomena
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37 min
29: Organics: Coral. Don't bleach it! Or Maybe you should.
Season 1, Episode 29
Show notes
This episode explores the fascinating world of coral, its history, types, and significance in gemmology. Hosted by Simon and Lucinda, it covers everything from the biological origins of coral to its cultural importance and modern regulations.
sound bites
"Polyps are tiny creatures related to sea anemones."
"Coral structures are like a living family tree."
"Black and gold coral are rare and often bleached."
key topics
Definition of organic materials
History of coral harvesting and trade
Types of coral: precious, soft, fossilised, black and gold
Identification and authenticity of coral in jewelry
Regulations and sustainability in coral trade
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Coral and Organic Materials
02:53 The Importance of Organic Materials
05:14 Coral Fishing in History
07:57 Understanding Coral Polyps
10:32 The Journey of Coral Harvesting
13:03 Regulations and Sustainability in Coral Harvesting
15:33 Coral as a Jewelry Material
18:03 Types of Coral and Their Significance
21:50 Identifying Coral: Key Features and Characteristics
24:33 Understanding Soft Coral: Misleading Names and Textures
26:42 Fossilised Coral: The Transformation Process
28:20 Exploring Black and Gold Coral: Unique Properties and Origins
32:17 Coral Conservation: The Impact of Overfishing and Regulations
34:44 Closing Thoughts: The Beauty and Importance of Coral
resources
Gemmology by C. D. M. Roberts - https://www.amazon.com/Gemmology-C-D-M-Roberts/dp/XXXXXX
CITES - Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species - https://cites.org/
Coral Museum in Naples, Italy - https://www.coralmuseumnaples.it/
https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology
guest links
Instagram - https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology
TikTok - https://tiktok.com/@facet.nation.pod
coral, gemmology, organic materials, jewellery, coral harvesting, coral types, coral regulation, fossilised coral, coral history, coral identification
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32 min
28. Colour: Pleochroism and Colour Filter Gem testing
Season 1, Episode 28
Show notes
In this episode, Lucinda and Simon explore the fascinating world of gemmology instruments, focusing on colour filters like the Chelsea colour filter and pleochroism testing methods. Learn how these tools aid in gemstone identification and enhance gem cutting techniques.
Educational
key topics
Colour filters in gemmology
Chelsea colour filter purpose and use
Pleochroism and its significance in gemstone identification
Testing for pleochroism with London Dichroscope and calcite dichroscope
Importance of light source and gemstone orientation in testing
Natural vs synthetic gemstone identification techniques
key frameworks
Colour absorption principles
Pleochroism and optical anisotropy
Gemstone orientation and cutting strategies
Titles
Mastering Gemstone Identification: The Power of Colour Filters and Pleochroism Tests
Unlocking Gem Secrets: Chelsea Filter and Pleochroism in Gemmology
sound bites
"Record your observation by stating the colour scene."
"Always think about why you're looking at the stone."
"Share your pleochroic observations with others."
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Colour Filters in Gemmology
01:55 Understanding Pleochroism and Selective Absorption
05:27 Testing for Pleochroism with the London Dichroscope
10:34 Comparing the London Dichroscope and Calcite Dichroscope
15:36 Documenting Pleochroism Observations
17:35 Understanding Gemstone Colours and Pleochroism
20:04 The Chelsea Colour Filter: A Gemstone Testing Tool
26:23 Practical Applications of the Chelsea Colour Filter
28:50 Identifying Gemstones: Colour Responses and Observations
resources
Gem-A - https://www.gem-a.com
Pleochroism in Gemstones (Book) - https://www.amazon.com/pleochroism-gemstones
Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/facetnationgemmology
Email - facetnation@facetnation.co.uk
gemmology, colour filters, Chelsea filter, pleochroism, gemstone identification, gem testing, gem cutting, gemmology tools
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56 min
27. Jadeite: A Cultural Icon
Season 1, Episode 27
Show notes
This episode explores the fascinating world of jadeite, covering its geology, colours, treatments, cultural significance, and the latest gemological insights. Hosted by gemmologists Lucinda and Simon, it offers a deep dive into one of the most revered gemstones across cultures.
key topics
Jadeite vs Nephrite
Colours and Varieties of Jadeite
Treatments and Impostors in Jadeite
Cultural Significance of Jade in China and Central America
Geology and Formation of Jadeite
Titles
Jadeite Unveiled: 10 Facts Every Gemologist Should Know
The Hidden World of Jadeite: From Burma to Central America
sound bites
"Imperial Jade is the poster child for jadeite"
"Mining jadeite involves cutting into massive boulders"
"Testing includes SG, hardness, and visual clues"
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Jadeite
02:54 The Complexity of Jadeite
05:43 Understanding Jadeite's Properties
08:39 The Formation and Sources of Jadeite
11:20 Cultural Significance and Jewellery of Jadeite
14:08 Impostors and Imitations of Jadeite
18:40 Testing and Identifying Jadeite
26:46 Exploring Literature and Its Influence
28:01 Understanding Specific Gravity in Gemmology
29:59 Testing Gem Hardness and Its Implications
31:30 Refractive Index: A Key to Gem Identification
33:28 The Complex World of Jade Treatments
39:14 Cultural Significance of Jade in China
51:31 Jade's Historical Importance in Central America
Resources
Gem-A (Gemological Association of Great Britain) - https://gem-a.com
Real Jade Co. - https://realjade.com
Instagram - https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology
jadeite, gemmology, gemstones, jade, mineralogy, treatments, cultural significance, Guatemala jade, gem identification
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53 min
26. Interview: Andrew Geoghegan - Jewellery Design, Branding and Keeping it Real
Season 1, Episode 26
Show notes
Join us as we explore the journey of jewellery designer Andrew Geoghegan, from childhood fascination with treasure to creating innovative collections inspired by history and nature. Discover insights on craftsmanship, branding, and staying authentic in a digital world.
key topics
Andy Geoghegan's early fascination with treasure and jewellery
The journey from university to professional jewellery design
The importance of authenticity and personal style in branding
Inspiration from history, nature, and personal experiences
Challenges and insights in modern jewellery marketing
guest name
Andrew Geoghegan
Titles
From Childhood Mischief to Jewellery Mastery: Andrew Geoghegan's Creative Journey
Unlocking the Secrets of Gem Setting and Jewellery Design
sound bites
"That moment sparked my love for jewellery"
"The use of colour in jewellery is about expression"
"Finding that relic was like discovering treasure"
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Andrew Geoghegan
01:20 The Journey Begins: Early Memories of Jewellery
02:57 From Art College to Jewellery Design
09:10 Building the Brand: The Early Days
11:32 Navigating Challenges and Perseverance
16:22 The Digital Age: Marketing Jewellery Today
23:56 Design Inspirations and Client Connections
30:08 The Art of Craftsmanship in Jewellery
34:06 Innovative Use of Colour in Jewellery Design
36:59 Embracing Individuality in Gemstone Choices
37:21 Inspiration from Nature and History
42:33 The Thrill of Treasure Hunting
48:44 Launching the Treowth Collection
resources
Susannah King on Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/susannahkinglondon/
The Detectorists (TV Series) - https://www.netflix.com/title/80064446
Gemology Resources - https://www.gia.edu/
Jewelry Design Books - https://www.amazon.com/s?k=jewelry+design
guest links
Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/andrewgeoghegan/
jewellery design, gemmology, jewellery collection, craftsmanship, branding, authenticity, goldsmithing, gemstone, jewellery inspiration, digital marketing
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1 hr 3 min
25. Interview: Wim Vertriest - GIA Field Gemmology, Gem Identification and Mozambique Rubies
Season 1, Episode 25
Show notes
Join us as Wim Vertriest, head of field gemmology at GIA, shares his journey from geology to gemmology, insights into Mozambique rubies, and the fascinating science behind gemstone origin determination. Discover how field gemmology connects geology, anthropology, and the gemstone trade to deepen your understanding of these precious stones.
Key topics
Wim Vertriest's journey from geology to gemmology
Insights into Mozambique ruby deposits and mining practices
The role of field gemmology in understanding gemstone origins
Scientific techniques for gemstone identification and origin determination
The impact of Mozambique rubies on the global gemstone market
Guest name
Wim Vertriest
Titles
The Science and Secrets of Mozambique Rubies: An Interview with Wim Vertriest
From Geology to Gemmology: Wim Vertriest's Journey at GIA
sound bites
"Gemmology is about understanding the whole ecosystem."
"Heat treatment leaves subtle but detectable clues."
"My favourite gemstone is the Cat's Eye Chrysoberyl."
Chapters
00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Guest Background
02:57 Wim's Journey into Gemmology
05:19 The Role of Field Gemmology
07:55 Understanding Gemstone Origins
10:14 Geological Mysteries of Rubies
12:39 The Impact of Mining on Gemstones
15:12 The Evolution of Consumer Awareness
17:43 Building a Reliable Gemstone Collection
20:30 The Multidisciplinary Nature of Field Gemmology
23:04 Exploring the Origins of Sapphires
24:09 Field Gemmology: Balancing Lab Work and Expeditions
26:03 Research-Driven Gemmology: Filling Knowledge Gaps
27:39 Emerging Trends in Gemstone Popularity
29:24 The Challenges of Diamond Origin Determination
30:37 Identifying Gemstones: The Art of Exclusion
33:23 Declassifying Misidentified Stones
39:55 The Canary in the Coal Mine: Ruby Heating Experiments
44:18 The Chemistry of Gemstones
46:47 Advanced Techniques in Gemmology
48:08 The Rise of Mozambique Rubies
52:42 The Evolution of Ruby Mining
58:42 Changing Perceptions of Rubies
01:01:11 The Future of Gemmology
resources
GIA Official Website - https://www.gia.edu
Gems and Gemology Journal - https://www.gia.edu/gems-gemology
Mozambique Ruby Mining Insights (Report) - https://www.gia.edu/mozambique-ruby-report
Wim Vertriest's Profile on LinkedIn - https://www.linkedin.com/in/wimvertriest
Guest links
LinkedIn - https://www.linkedin.com/in/wimvertriest
GIA Profile - https://www.gia.edu/wim-vertriest
gemmology, gemstones, Mozambique rubies, gemstone origin, field gemmology, GIA, gem research, gemstone mining, gemstone identification, gem science
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