Podcast

Facet Nation: A Gemmology Podcast

Education, Natural Sciences, Science

Facet Nation is a new kind of gemmology podcast. Rigorous enough for serious students, but fascinating and funny enough for anyone craving an inside look at gemstones, jewellery and the shadowy world surrounding them. Part revision aide, part storytime, Lucinda and Simon are your qualified guides to the world’s most ancient treasures.

Episodes
44
Releases
Weekly
Typical length
45 min
On air since
2025
Latest episode
1 day ago

Episodes

44 episodes, newest first

  1. 44. A Geology Lesson for Gemmologists with Emily Coulter

    Season 2, Episode 44

    Show notes

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    Geologist and Crystal Case Studies founder Emily Coulter joins Facet Nation hosts Lucinda and Simon to explain geology from the ground up, connecting Earth’s structure and moving plates to the environments where minerals and gemstones form. Her clear, food-based analogies make core concepts - from rock types to crystallisation - easier to understand, while the hosts bring a gemmology learner’s perspective and practical questions. Geologist Emily explains how magma chemistry, metamorphism and the rock cycle shape the rocks and gemstones we encounter. Simon and Lucinda ask the questions, connect the science to gemmology, and close with Emily’s favourite gems and where to find her.

    • Emily Coulter traces her path from studying geology from age 12 to mineral wholesale, jewellery marketing, and founding Crystal Case Studies.
    • Geology is the study of Earth and its processes across roughly 4.5 billion years; rocks and minerals preserve clues to that history.
    • Minerals have a defined chemistry and ordered crystal structure, while rocks are usually mixtures of minerals; lapis lazuli is a gemstone that is also a rock.
    • The hosts and Emily use a peach analogy for Earth’s crust, mantle, and core, and discuss differences between oceanic and continental crust.
    • Plate boundaries include divergent, convergent, and transform settings; examples include the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, the Andes, the Himalayas, and the San Andreas Fault.
    • Gem formation depends on the right ingredients, heat, pressure, fluids, and time; Emily contrasts metamorphic garnets with opal forming in a sedimentary basin.
    • The three rock groups are igneous, sedimentary, and metamorphic; Emily explains how each forms and why metamorphic minerals may align under pressure.
    • Intrusive igneous rocks cool underground and can develop larger crystals; extrusive rocks cool at the surface, while magma becomes lava once erupted.
    • Igneous chemistry ranges from silica-poor ultramafic and mafic rocks to silica-rich felsic rocks such as granite and rhyolite. Emily compares runny basaltic lava with viscous felsic magma, explaining why felsic eruptions can trap gas and explode.
    • Fractional crystallization sorts minerals as magma cools: olivine can form early, while feldspar crystallizes later.
    • Pegmatites cool slowly and can contain exceptionally large crystals, as well as concentrated incompatible elements such as lithium and beryllium.
    • Emily describes metamorphism as recrystallization without melting, and names garnet, ruby, sapphire, spinel and kyanite among metamorphic gems and minerals.
    • Regional metamorphism is associated with mountain-building pressure; contact metamorphism heats surrounding rock, while metasomatism involves chemically active fluids.
    • Fluid-driven alteration is important in Colombian emerald formation, where separated ingredients can meet and recrystallize.
    • The rock cycle continually recycles material among igneous, sedimentary and metamorphic rocks over geological time.
    • Weathering breaks rock down, erosion transports it, and deposition can concentrate dense gems and gold in river gravels.
    • Emily shares her interest in unusual amethyst localities, including Jackson Crossroads in Georgia, and her love of garnet varieties.

    Takeaways

    • Geology, put really, really simply, is the study of Earth and the processes that make up the Earth.
    • We're essentially like picking up on the writing of what Earth has left us.
    • Minerals, there is like a set definition for a mineral, which is a naturally occurring solid with a defined chemistry and an ordered crystal structure.
    • Rocks, on the other hand, are normally mixtures of minerals.
    • You want something fiery going on. You want some heat, you want some pressure, you want some fluids.
    • The longer that they are in a fluid, the longer that they are able to move around and be mobile and connect with each other and go and hold hands, the bigger the result is.
    • Intrusive means below the Earth's surface. Extrusive means above the Earth's surface.
    • The moment it gets above the Earth's crust, it is erupted or extruded like toothpaste. It becomes lava.
    • The three environments within geology where all rocks form are sedimentary, metamorphic and igneous.
    • The more quartz something has, the more viscous it is. The more felsic a rock is, thicker it is.
    • They crystallise in sequence and basically are minerals that are able to crystallise at higher temperatures, crystallise first.
    • I think of this as all of the elements having time to find their friends.
    • They don't like it and they rearrange themselves. They're not melting. It is not melting. It is recrystallisation without melting.
    • The key element of metasomatism is the fact that those mineral rich fluids are interacting with the minerals that they're coming into contact with.
    • Rocks, like elements within the earth and on the earth are continually being recycled and reused in different ways.
    • Weathering, earth processes like wind, rain, ice, weather things down.
    • Erosion moves them away from there, like from where they were living before.
    • I feel like it's easy for people to not realise necessarily how recycled everything is.
    • I love making Gemstone friends with people.

    Key Frameworks

    • Fractional crystallisation
    • The rock cycle
    • Regional, contact and fluid-driven metamorphism

    Sound Bites

    • "I have fear of being involved."
    • "They crystallise in sequence"
    • "they want to be dropped."

    Chapters

    00:00
    Meet geologist Emily Coulter and hear her path into gems

    05:46
    A beginner-friendly definition of geology

    06:58
    What makes a mineral different from a rock

    08:55
    Granite, basalt, limestone and marble

    11:21
    Earth’s layers and the peach analogy

    14:18
    Oceanic and continental crust, plus magnetic stripes

    17:57
    How moving plates shape Earth’s surface

    20:27
    Divergent boundaries and new oceanic crust

    22:26
    Subduction zones, mountain building and transform faults

    25:17
    Why heat, pressure and fluids matter for gemstones

    26:27
    The conditions minerals need to crystallize

    28:33
    Opal’s slow formation in a sedimentary basin

    31:06
    The three rock types, simply explained

    33:10
    How pressure gives metamorphic rocks their texture

    35:18
    Intrusive versus extrusive igneous rocks

    38:10
    Mafic, ultramafic and felsic chemistry

    40:21
    How magma changes as it rises through the crust

    40:50
    Why felsic magma erupts explosively

    44:01
    Fractional crystallization sorts minerals as magma cools

    47:02
    Pegmatites, giant crystals and lithium-rich melts

    50:47
    Metamorphic rocks and Emily’s Scottish garnet story

    53:23
    Ruby, sapphire, spinel and the challenges of kyanite

    55:08
    Regional, contact and fluid-driven metamorphism

    58:14
    How fluids help form Colombian emeralds

    01:00:03
    The rock cycle: how rocks are recycled

    01:02:17
    Weathering, erosion and the journey of river gems

    01:05:13
    Emily’s geology takeaways and favorite gems

    01:08:05
    Collecting unusual amethyst and different garnets

    01:11:17
    Where to find Emily and the show’s sign-off

    geology basics, rocks and minerals, gemstone formation, tectonic plates, igneous rocks, metamorphic rocks, sedimentary rocks, crystallisation, gemmology, Emily Coulter geology, gemstones, gemmology, fractional crystallisation, pegmatites, metamorphic rocks, rock cycle, volcanic eruptions, garnet, amethyst, gemology

    Instagram: @crystalcasestudies

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    1 hr 13 min
  2. 43. Halloween Spooktacular 2026 - Haunted Gems

    Season 2, Episode 43

    Show notes

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    Lucinda's favourite time of year.

    The Spooktacular returns for Halloween 2026.

    Join us as we explore the fascinating world of haunted gemstones, ghost stories linked to jewellery, and the mysterious history behind some of the UK's most intriguing ghost tales. Discover the stories, history, and cultural significance of these spectral legends.

    The difference between curses and hauntings in gemmology

    Historical ghost stories linked to jewellery and gemstones

    The story of Lady Ingram's lost pearl necklace and her ghost

    The Cheapside Horde and its ghostly apparitions

    The legend of the Lady in Red and her lost engagement ring

    Queen Elizabeth's pearls and ghostly sightings in Rye

    The significance of pearls in ghost stories and folklore

    sound bites

    "The Cheapside Horde was buried for 300 years."

    "The woman on the fifth floor was called Rose."

    "Pearls symbolise purity and religious devotion."

    Chapters

    00:00 Introduction to Haunted Gemstones and Ghost Stories

    01:54 The Difference Between Cursed and Haunted Gemstones

    05:05 Lady Ingram's Pearl Necklace and Her Spirit

    10:09 The Cheapside Horde and Its Ghostly Encounters

    14:56 The Legend of the Lady in Red and the Midsummer's Ring

    20:00 Queen Elizabeth's Pearls and Ghostly Sightings in Rye

    25:00 The Significance of Pearls in Ghost Lore

    29:58 Historical and Cultural Reflections on Haunted Jewellery

    haunted gemstones, ghost stories, jewellery history, UK ghost tales, gemmology, paranormal, historical mysteries, spooky stories, ghostly legends, jewellery folklore, uncanny ghost stories, gemology, spooky, halloween, horror, intrigue, mystery

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    43 min
  3. 42. Garnet: Part Two - Tsavorite, Faberge and the fate of Campbell Bridges

    Season 2, Episode 42

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    In part two, we explore the Ugrandite series of garnets, including their chemistry, history, and the stories behind famous varieties like Tsavorite and Demantoid. Join us for a deep dive into gemstone lore, geology, and the vibrant stories that make these stones so captivating.

    key topics
    The isomorphous series of garnets and their chemical formulas
    The story of tsavorite's discovery and its geological background
    The history and lore of demantoid garnet and its connection to Faberge
    The marketing and storytelling aspect of gemstone branding
    Different varieties of garnets including grossular, andradite, and uvarovite
    The significance of inclusions and their identification in garnets
    The story of Campbell Bridges and the discovery of tsavorite in Africa
    The cultural and historical significance of garnets in jewelry

    sound bites
    "Garnets are part of two isomorphous series."
    "Tsavorite was discovered in the 1960s in Zimbabwe."
    "Uvarovite is a tiny, beautiful green garnet."

    Chapters
    00:00 Introduction to Garnets and Episode Overview
    01:57 The Isomorphous Series of Garnets Explained
    07:56 Discovery and Geology of Tsavorite in Africa
    14:56 The Story of Demantoid Garnet and Faberge
    28:02 Varieties of Garnets: Grossular, Tsavorite, and More
    40:05 The Lore, Inclusions, and Market of Garnets
    44:01 The Tragic Tale of Campbell Bridges and Tsavorite

    garnets, gemstone lore, tsavorite, demantoid, geology, jewellery, gemstone stories, mineralogy, gemmology, gemology, gems, Tiffany, Campbell Bridges, science

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    41 min
  4. 41. Interview: Arya Akhavan returns! Growing Exotic and Novel Lab Sapphires

    Season 2, Episode 41

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    Arya Akhavan returns! To reveal the secrets he couldn't disclose last time.

    Arya has been growing sapphires! And not just any sapphires, every colour of sapphire you can imagine.

    A gemologist and scientist, Arya shares groundbreaking insights into synthetic gemstone production, including sapphire growth, colour manipulation, and future innovations. Discover how science and passion are transforming the gem industry and what it means for collectors, faceters and jewellers alike.

    Get involved by joining 'The Gemstone Lab' kickstarter here:

    https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/canadacrystallabs/the-gemstone-lab-growing-never-before-seen-lab-sapphires

    Groundbreaking sapphire growth techniques
    Chemical processes in gemstone creation
    The role of computer modeling in gemmology
    Market implications of synthetic versus natural gems
    Innovations in gemstone colour and treatments
    Challenges in sourcing synthetic materials
    Future projects in gemstone research
    The impact of technology on gem cutting and design

    sound bites
    "We want to do this scientifically, rigorously."
    "Some synthetics are more rare than natural gems."
    "Market perceptions have diverged completely."

    Chapters
    00:00 Introduction to Arya Akhavan and his work
    02:54 Chemical processes in sapphire creation
    06:18 Modeling and reverse engineering natural sapphires
    08:34 Market trends and consumer preferences for synthetics
    12:20 Industrial applications of synthetic gemstones
    17:46 Market perception and the future of synthetic gems
    22:37 Unique features of synthetic gemstones and market demand
    28:43 Market diversification and consumer behavior
    34:14 The evolution of synthetic gemstone marketing
    43:56 Research and development in gemstone science
    50:19 Current progress and future plans for gemstone synthesis
    54:07 Closing thoughts and upcoming projects

    synthetic gemstones, sapphire growth, gemmology, gemology, gemstone science, lab-grown gems, gemstone colour, gemstone innovation, gem industry, gemstone research, gem cutting, faceting, lapidary, kickstarter, coloured gemstones

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    58 min
  5. 40. Season 2: Garnet Part One

    Season 2, Episode 40

    Show notes

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    Hello and welcome back to Season 2 of Facet Nation: A Gemmology Podcast

    In this episode, we explore the fascinating world of garnets, their varieties, history, and gemmological properties, revealing insights that will deepen your understanding of these captivating gemstones.

    key topics
    Garnet varieties and their chemical compositions
    Historical significance and trade of garnets
    Gemmological properties and identification techniques
    The spectrum of garnet colours and their causes
    Hybrid garnet varieties and their market value
    The importance of locality and deposit sources
    Chemical formulas and systems of garnet classification
    Inclusions and phenomena in garnet stones
    The story behind the names and trade names of garnets

    sound bites
    "Most garnets you see are that common brownish red."
    "The Ugrandite series has calcium fixed and Y variable."
    "Garnet spectrum goes thick, thin, thick, thin."

    Chapters
    00:00 Introduction to Garnets and Episode Overview
    02:01 Common Misconceptions About Garnet Colours
    04:08 The Diversity of Garnet Varieties and Their Names
    05:32 Historical Trade and Significance of Garnets
    07:00 Chemical Foundations of Garnet Classification
    09:06 The Pyrope and Almandine Series Explained
    11:02 Understanding Garnet Spectra and Colour Variations
    12:52 The Rich History of Garnet Use in Jewellery
    15:10 The Discovery and Naming of Rhodolite Garnet
    17:00 Identifying and Differentiating Garnet Types
    18:58 Inclusions, Phenomena, and Cutting Challenges
    21:00 Localities and Market Trends for Garnets
    23:00 The Fascinating World of Pyrope and Spessartine Garnets
    25:08 The Unique Colours and Market Value of Spessartine
    26:54 The Story of Malaya Garnet and Its Cultural Significance
    29:02 Summary and Final Thoughts on Garnet Diversity

    garnets, gemstone varieties, gemmology, almandine, pyrope, spessartine, Ugrandite, gem deposits, gemstone history, bohemian garnets, jewellery, gems, science, learning, education, study

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    39 min
  6. 39. Season 2 Preview and Summer Catch Up Bonus

    Season 2, Episode 39

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    In this mini episode, Simon shares his summer adventures including gem mining in Oregon, visiting the Spectrum Sunstone Mine, and participating in gemmology events. Lucinda discusses her new gemmology brand, TikTok presence, and recent travels, highlighting the vibrant gem community and upcoming events.

    Gem mining in Oregon
    Spectrum Sunstone Mine visit
    Gemmology events and community outreach
    Lucinda's new gemmology brand and TikTok presence
    Travel stories and gem history insights

    sound bites
    "Met some amazing people in Oregon"
    "Spotted a cougar in the wild"
    "Check out my new gemmology brand, Cunning Folk"

    Chapters
    00:00 Introduction and episode overview
    02:09 Memorable encounters and wildlife in Oregon
    03:00 Exploring Oregon’s history and hot springs
    06:58 Meet George, the versatile genius
    08:02 Sunstone mining and collecting experiences
    09:43 Gem community events and upcoming gatherings
    14:34 Lucinda’s gemmology brand and social media launch
    15:26 Lucinda’s trip to California and museum highlights
    16:18 Lucinda’s UK adventures and historical sites
    17:37 Season updates and upcoming episodes

    gemmology, Oregon sunstone, gemstone mining, gem events, gem community, TikTok gemmology, Spectrum Sunstone Mine, gem education

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    19 min
  7. 38. End of Season 1: Fashioning Part Two - Gemstone faceting techniques

    Season 1, Episode 38

    Show notes

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    This episode explores the intricate process of diamond manufacturing, from designing and marking to shaping, faceting, and polishing. Hosted by gemmologists Simon and Lucinda, it offers detailed insights into cutting techniques, tools, and the science behind creating stunning gemstones.

    End of Season One. THANK YOU FOR LISTENING.

    We will be back, enjoy your summer

    key topics
    Diamond designing and marking
    Dividing and cleaving methods
    Shaping and faceting techniques
    Polishing and final finishing
    Tools and equipment used in gem cutting

    Mastering Diamond Cutting: From Rough to Brilliant
    The Art and Science of Gemstone Faceting

    sound bites
    "Only diamond can cut a diamond"
    "Lasers cut diamonds in twenty minutes"
    "Start with the pavilion, then the crown"

    Chapters
    00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Diamond Manufacturing
    02:35 The Process of Cutting Diamonds
    05:13 Dividing and Shaping Diamonds
    08:03 Bruting and Faceting Diamonds
    10:28 The Role of Technology in Diamond Cutting
    13:26 Understanding Diamond Facets and Angles
    15:46 Lapidary: The Art of Gemstone Cutting
    18:48 Understanding Facet Diagrams
    21:24 Dopping Techniques and Adhesives
    24:49 The Faceting Process Begins
    28:19 Grit Sequence and Polishing
    32:31 Cutting the Crown Facets
    36:58 Final Steps and Reflections
    39:49 Looking Ahead: Future Plans and Wrap-Up

    resources
    Gemology Project - Facet Diagrams - https://gemologyproject.com
    Ultratech Gem Faceting Machines - https://ultratec.com
    Andrew Ian Brown's Gemstone Design Books - https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Andrew+Ian+Brown+gemstone+design

    Instagram - https://instagram.com/gemmology_si

    diamond manufacturing, gemmology, faceting, cutting techniques, gemstone design, diamond polishing, gemmology course, gemstone tools, gemmology education

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    42 min
  8. 37. Gemstone Fashioning Part One: An Overview for Gemmology Study

    Season 1, Episode 37

    Show notes

    Send us Fan Mail

    In this episode, Lucinda and Simon explore the fascinating world of gemstone cutting and fashioning, covering essential terminology, techniques, and historical insights crucial for gemologists and enthusiasts alike.

    key topics
    Gemstone cutting terminology
    Differences between lapidary and diamond manufacturing
    Factors influencing gemstone cut decisions
    Historical gem cutting techniques and innovations
    Practical tips for evaluating rough stones

    Gem Cutting Vocabulary
    Diamond Manufacturing Process
    Gemstone Cut Optimization

    Review gemstone terminology regularly
    Practice evaluating rough stones before cutting
    Explore historical gem cutting techniques

    Titles
    Mastering Gemstone Cutting: Techniques, History, and Industry Insights
    The Art and Science of Gem Cutting: A Comprehensive Guide

    sound bites
    "The old mine cut has a rich history."
    "Inlays and carvings add artistic value."
    "A break in gem cutting is coming soon."

    Chapters
    00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Cutting Gemstones
    03:01 The Importance of Understanding Gemstone Cuts
    05:43 Insights from Gem Cutting Experts
    08:26 The Process of Fashioning Gemstones
    11:09 Types of Gemstone Fashioning
    13:58 Evaluating Rough Gemstones
    16:37 Key Factors in Gemstone Cutting
    19:13 Understanding Diamond Manufacture
    21:58 Historical Perspectives on Gem Cutting
    24:42 Modern Trends in Gem Cutting
    27:24 Conclusion and Future of Gem Cutting
    29:12 Understanding Diamond Cuts and Their History
    32:29 The Anatomy of a Diamond: Key Features
    34:51 Exploring Brilliant Cut Stones
    36:42 Step Cuts vs. Brilliant Cuts: A Comparison
    38:04 The Evolution of Rose Cuts and Mixed Cuts
    40:32 Fantasy Cuts: The Art of Gemstone Cutting
    41:35 Cabochons: The Gateway to Gem Cutting
    44:25 Beads, Cameos, and Intaglios: Decorative Techniques
    46:10 Carvings, Inlays, and Mosaics: Artistic Expressions

    The V&A Museum Gem Collection - https://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/gems
    UK Facet Cutters Guild - https://ukfcg.org/

    guest links
    Instagram - https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology
    Email - mailto:facetnation@facetnation.co.uk

    gemmology, gemstone cutting, gem fashioning, gemmology exam, gem cutter, gemstone shapes, diamond manufacturing, gemmology history, gemstone grading, jewellery industry

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    50 min
  9. 36. Interview: Michelle Mai - Cutting and Designing Gemstones

    Season 1, Episode 36

    Show notes

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    Join Lucinda, Simon, and Michelle Mai as they explore the art and science of precision gem cutting. Discover techniques, tools, design principles, and the inspiring journey of a master gem cutter in this engaging episode.

    Precision gem cutting techniques
    Tools and machinery for faceting
    Design principles for gemstones
    Materials used in gem cutting
    The journey of a gem cutter

    Guest name
    Michelle Mai

    Titles
    Mastering Precision Gem Cutting: Techniques and Inspiration
    The Art and Science of Gem Faceting with Michelle Mai

    sound bites
    "Equipment is a huge barrier to entry"
    "Polishing quartz is challenging for me"
    "Start with cabochons to learn the basics"

    Chapters
    00:00 Introduction to Precision Gem Cutting
    08:09 Michelle's Journey into Gem Cutting
    10:53 Understanding Gem Cutting Machinery
    13:09 The Learning Curve in Gem Cutting
    15:57 Design Principles in Gem Cutting
    18:57 Challenges with Different Gem Materials
    21:36 Creating Unique Gem Designs
    24:36 The Role of Light in Gem Performance
    27:00 Inspiration Behind Michelle's Designs
    29:59 Favorite Designs and Techniques
    32:31 Conclusion and Future Aspirations
    35:41 Exploring Favourite Materials in Gem Cutting
    37:53 Natural vs. Synthetic Gemstones: A Balanced Perspective
    39:48 Navigating Risk and Responsibility in Gem Cutting
    44:08 Advice for Aspiring Gem Cutters
    51:04 Encouragement for Beginners in Lapidary Arts

    resources
    Amateur Gemstone Faceting Volume One by Tom Herbst - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V4V7V4X
    UK Facet Cutters Guild - https://www.ukfcg.org/
    Gem Cut Studio - https://gemcutstudio.com/
    Reddit r/shinypreciousgems - https://www.reddit.com/r/shinypreciousgems/

    guest links
    Reddit - https://www.reddit.com/user/MichelleMai
    Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/michellemai/

    gem cutting, gemmology, precision faceting, gemstone design, gem tools, gemstone materials, gem industry, gem education

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    53 min
  10. 35. Tourmaline Part II: The King of Tourmaline...?

    Season 1, Episode 35

    Show notes

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    In this episode of FacetNation, Simon and Lucinda delve into the fascinating world of tourmaline, particularly focusing on its significance in San Diego's gemstone history and the impact of the Dowager Empress Cixi on the pink tourmaline market. They explore the rise and fall of the tourmaline industry, the unique characteristics of the stone, and the methods used to identify it. The conversation is rich with historical anecdotes and insights into the gemmology field, making it an engaging listen for enthusiasts and newcomers alike. Also in this episode, Lucinda and Simon delve into the fascinating world of tourmaline, exploring its color variations, treatments, and the rise of Paraiba tourmaline as a highly sought-after gemstone. They discuss the geological origins of Paraiba tourmaline, its global appeal, and highlight famous examples, including the Ethereal Carolina Divine Paraiba. The episode concludes with a look at the stunning Liddicoat tourmaline slice, showcasing the beauty and complexity of this remarkable gemstone.

    Tourmaline is a significant gemstone with various types.
    San Diego has a rich history of gemstone mining.
    The Dowager Empress Cixi played a crucial role in popularising pink tourmaline.
    Zixi's love for pink tourmaline influenced the gemstone market.
    The decline of the tourmaline market followed Cixi's death.
    Testing tourmaline requires specific techniques due to its colour variations.
    Tourmaline can be mistaken for other gemstones.
    Historical context enhances the value of gemstones.
    Gemstones often have fascinating stories behind them.
    Understanding gemstone history can enrich appreciation for them. Some stones show two completely different colours.
    Watermelon tourmalines need both pleochroic responses listed.
    Tourmaline can be treated to enhance colour.
    Paraiba tourmaline is the most valuable type.
    The discovery of Paraiba tourmaline changed the market.
    Paraiba tourmaline's price skyrocketed due to rarity.
    Geological events created the conditions for tourmaline formation.
    Nigerian and Mozambican tourmalines are similar to Brazilian Paraiba.
    Famous tourmalines often have historical significance.
    The Liddicoat tourmaline slice is a stunning example of tourmaline beauty.

    The Allure of Tourmaline: A Gemstone Journey
    Unveiling San Diego's Gemstone Secrets
    The Legacy of the Dowager Empress Cixi
    Tourmaline: From Mine to Market

    "She banned foot binding."
    "It's a serious bottleneck."
    "It's called Heitorita."
    "It looks like stained glass."

    Chapters
    00:00 Introduction to Tourmaline Part Two
    02:30 Exploring San Diego's Gemstone History
    05:57 The Dowager Empress Cixi and Pink Tourmaline
    17:20 The Decline of the Tourmaline Market
    18:22 Testing Tourmaline: Identification Techniques
    22:01 Understanding Tourmaline's Colour Variations
    25:01 The Treatment and Enhancement of Tourmaline
    26:17 The Discovery of Paraiba Tourmaline
    30:39 The Rise of Paraiba Tourmaline's Value
    34:00 Geological Origins of Paraiba Tourmaline
    38:25 The Global Appeal of Paraiba Tourmaline
    39:05 Famous Paraiba Tourmalines and Their Significance
    42:30 The Liddicoat Tourmaline Slice and Its Beauty

    tourmaline, gemstones, San Diego, Dowager Empress Cixi, gemmology, pink tourmaline, gemstone testing, history, gem market, California tourmaline, Paraiba tourmaline, gemstone treatment, colour variations, gemmology, gemstone value, geological origins, famous gemstones, Liddicoat tourmaline

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    40 min
  11. 34. Gemstone Colour: Charge Transfer and Colour Centres

    Season 1, Episode 34

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    Explore the fascinating science of gemstone colour, focusing on charge transfer mechanisms, the role of ions, and how treatments like heat affect gemstone hues. Perfect for gemmology enthusiasts and professionals alike.

    key topics

    Charge transfer in gemstones

    Colour centres and defects

    Effects of heat treatment on gemstone colour

    Titles

    The Science Behind Gemstone Colours: Charge Transfer Explained

    Unlocking the Secrets of Sapphire and Diamond Colours

    sound bites

    "Blue sapphire's colour is a football match of ions."

    "Charge transfer mechanisms reveal gemstone secrets."

    Chapters

    00:00 Introduction to Colour in Gemmology

    02:53 Understanding Charge Transfer in Gemstones

    05:35 Oxygen to Metal Charge Transfer

    08:28 Metal to Metal Charge Transfer: The Sapphire Story

    10:58 Organic Molecular Electron Transition

    16:22 Colour Centres in Diamonds

    22:39 The Science of Synthetic Diamonds

    25:27 Understanding Green Diamonds

    27:44 The Mystery of Pink Diamonds

    30:48 Exploring Colour Centers in Diamonds

    35:28 The Future of Gemmology and Podcasting

    resources

    Gem-A Gemmology Course - https://gem-a.com/education

    Instagram - https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology

    Email - mailto:facetnation@facetnation.co.uk

    gemmology, gemstone colour, charge transfer, sapphire, diamond, heat treatment, colour centres, spectroscopy, mineralogy

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    38 min
  12. 33. Tourmaline Part One: Conquistadors and the party where everyone's invited

    Season 1, Episode 33

    Show notes

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    Join us as we explore the fascinating world of tourmaline, its formation, varieties, and historical significance, with insights from gemmologists Lucinda and Simon.

    Tourmaline's chemical complexity and isomorphous series
    Formation of tourmaline in pegmatites and metamorphic rocks
    Varieties of tourmaline and their unique features
    Historical lore and the myth of pyroelectricity
    Testing and identifying tourmaline in gemmology

    Simon and Lucinda

    Titles
    The Hidden World of Tourmaline: From Conquistadors to Colourful Crystals
    Unlocking the Secrets of Tourmaline: Varieties, Formation, and Lore

    sound bites
    "Paraiba tourmalines glow like neon blue."
    "Rubellite is the most popular tourmaline."
    "Rubellite is a deep, moody red."

    Chapters
    00:00 Introduction to Facet nation and Personal Updates
    04:26 Shout Outs and Community Engagement
    08:38 Exploring Tourmaline: A Gemstone Overview
    12:59 The Chemistry and Characteristics of Tourmaline
    17:28 Historical Significance and Unique Properties of Tourmaline
    20:26 The Science Behind Tourmaline
    24:17 Formation of Tourmaline
    29:24 Varieties of Tourmaline
    36:40 Favourite Tourmalines and Their Unique Qualities

    Instagram - https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology

    tourmaline, gemstones, gemmology, mineral formation, jewellery, gem varieties, gemstone history, gem testing, gem inclusions

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    42 min
  13. 32. Causes of Gemstone Colour: Dispersed Metal Ions

    Season 1, Episode 32

    Show notes

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    This episode explores the science behind gemstone colours, focusing on dispersed metal ions, valency states, atomic environments, and their effects on colour and luminescence. Hosted by Lucinda and Simon, it combines scientific insights with personal reflections and industry tips.

    Dispersed metal ions and their role in gemstone colour
    Valency states of transition metals and their effects
    Atomic environment and its influence on gemstone hue
    Luminescence and fluorescence in gemstones
    Energy transfer and electron excitation in gemology

    Energy transfer in electrons
    Valency and atomic environment influence on colour
    Colour change effect in gemstones

    Review the valency states of transition metals in your gemstone collection
    Use a spectroscope to observe absorption bands and fluorescence
    Experiment with heating and irradiation to alter gemstone colors

    The Science of Gemstone Color: Dispersed Metal Ions and Atomic Environments
    Unlocking Gem Colors: Valency, Atomic Environment, and Light

    "Light as packets of energy excite electrons."
    "Atomic arrangement affects gemstone colour."
    "Chromium electrons jump, causing fluorescence."

    Chapters
    00:00 Introduction to Colour in Gemmology
    02:50 Philosophical Reflections on Energy and Colour
    05:31 Understanding Ions and Their Role in Colour
    08:03 The Impact of Valency State on Gemstone Colour
    10:47 Atomic Environment and Colour Variations
    13:30 The Role of Chromium in Colour Change
    16:16 Luminescence and Its Connection to Colour
    18:56 Fluorescence and Crystal Defects
    21:25 Conclusion and Future Topics

    resources

    Gem-A (Gemological Association of Great Britain) - https://gem-a.com
    Spectroscope and Light Source Information - https://www.gemologyonline.com
    Simon and Lucinda's Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/facetnationgemmology/

    gemmology, gemstone colour, dispersed metal ions, valency, atomic environment, luminescence, gemstone spectroscopy, Alexandrite, ruby, emerald

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    28 min
  14. 31. Interview: Ian Dun FGAA FGSGA, Federal President Gemmological Association of Australia

    Season 1, Episode 31

    Show notes

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    This week we are joined by Ian Dun, president of the Gemological Association of Australia. Discover insights into gemstone grading, Australian gemstones, and the future of gemological research. Of Particular interest is GAA's, world first, Opal Studies Course. Come and listen to find out all you need to know.

    key topics
    Gemological education and certification in Australia
    Australian gemstones: Opal, Sapphire, and more
    Advances in gemstone grading and identification

    guest name
    Ian Dun

    Titles
    Unlocking the Secrets of Gemmology with Ian Dun
    Australian Gemstones: A Deep Dive into Opal and More

    sound bites
    "Welcome to Facet Nation, a gemmology podcast."
    "Opal is misunderstood and polarizing."
    "Australian opal is my favourite gemstone."

    Chapters
    00:00 Introduction to Facet Nation and Ian Dun
    01:52 Ian Dun's Gem Story and Career Path
    08:49 The Gemological Association of Australia: History and Courses
    12:55 Diploma of Diamond Technology and Practical Grading
    21:42 The Online Opal Course: Development and Purpose
    23:39 The Journey of Opal: From Mine to Market
    27:36 Understanding the Opal Course: Structure and Feedback
    29:21 The Allure of Opal: Personal Perspectives
    34:19 Opal's Renaissance: Trends and Design Innovations
    38:19 Research and Future of Opal Studies
    40:39 Exploring Other Australian Gemstones
    52:32 The Future of Gemmology: Education and Career Paths

    Resources
    Gemological Association of Australia - https://www.gem.org.au/

    Opal Course - https://www.gem.org.au/courses/opal-studies/

    CIBJO Opal Guide - https://www.cibjo.org/

    keywords
    gemmology, gemstones, Australian gemstones, gemstone grading, gemmological education, opal, diamond, jewellery design, opal study, education

    Support the show

    55 min
  15. 30. Colour: Physical Optics and Colour Phenomena

    Season 1, Episode 30

    Show notes

    Send us Fan Mail

    Explore the fascinating world of physical optics in gemstones, focusing on iridescence, thin film interference, and the science behind colour phenomena like labradorescence and opalescence. Perfect for budding gemologists and enthusiasts alike.

    key topics
    Physical optics in gemstones
    Iridescence and wave interference
    Thin film interference in gem materials

    Unveiling Gemstone Colours: The Science of Iridescence and More
    The Hidden Physics of Gemstone Beauty: A Deep Dive

    sound bites
    "Iridescence is caused by wave interference."
    "Labradorescence is due to the chemistry of feldspar."
    "Pearlescence results from stacked layers of aragonite."

    Chapters
    00:00 Introduction to Physical Optics
    02:09 Understanding Iridescence
    11:00 Exploring Twin Planes and Their Effects
    14:11 The Fascination of Labradorescence and Adularescence
    20:03 The Nature of Light and Colour
    21:06 Exploring Rainbow Moonstone
    22:28 The Allure of Pearls
    25:06 Understanding Iridescence in Pearls
    28:27 The Mystique of Opals
    36:52 Reflections on Quality and Value in Gemstones

    resources
    Facet Nation Podcast - https://youtube.com/@facetnationuk

    guest links
    Instagram - https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology
    TikTok - https://tiktok.com/@facet.nation.pod
    Email - mailto:facetnation@facetnation.co.uk

    gemmology, physical optics, iridescence, labradorescence, opalescence, gemstone science, thin film interference, gemstone phenomena

    Support the show

    41 min
  16. 29: Organics: Coral. Don't bleach it! Or Maybe you should.

    Season 1, Episode 29

    Show notes

    Send us Fan Mail

    This episode explores the fascinating world of coral, its history, types, and significance in gemmology. Hosted by Simon and Lucinda, it covers everything from the biological origins of coral to its cultural importance and modern regulations.

    sound bites

    "Polyps are tiny creatures related to sea anemones."

    "Coral structures are like a living family tree."

    "Black and gold coral are rare and often bleached."

    key topics

    Definition of organic materials

    History of coral harvesting and trade

    Types of coral: precious, soft, fossilised, black and gold

    Identification and authenticity of coral in jewelry

    Regulations and sustainability in coral trade

    Chapters

    00:00 Introduction to Coral and Organic Materials

    02:53 The Importance of Organic Materials

    05:14 Coral Fishing in History

    07:57 Understanding Coral Polyps

    10:32 The Journey of Coral Harvesting

    13:03 Regulations and Sustainability in Coral Harvesting

    15:33 Coral as a Jewelry Material

    18:03 Types of Coral and Their Significance

    21:50 Identifying Coral: Key Features and Characteristics

    24:33 Understanding Soft Coral: Misleading Names and Textures

    26:42 Fossilised Coral: The Transformation Process

    28:20 Exploring Black and Gold Coral: Unique Properties and Origins

    32:17 Coral Conservation: The Impact of Overfishing and Regulations

    34:44 Closing Thoughts: The Beauty and Importance of Coral

    resources

    Gemmology by C. D. M. Roberts - https://www.amazon.com/Gemmology-C-D-M-Roberts/dp/XXXXXX

    CITES - Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species - https://cites.org/

    Coral Museum in Naples, Italy - https://www.coralmuseumnaples.it/

    https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology

    guest links

    Instagram - https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology

    TikTok - https://tiktok.com/@facet.nation.pod

    coral, gemmology, organic materials, jewellery, coral harvesting, coral types, coral regulation, fossilised coral, coral history, coral identification

    Support the show

    37 min
  17. 28. Colour: Pleochroism and Colour Filter Gem testing

    Season 1, Episode 28

    Show notes

    Send us Fan Mail

    In this episode, Lucinda and Simon explore the fascinating world of gemmology instruments, focusing on colour filters like the Chelsea colour filter and pleochroism testing methods. Learn how these tools aid in gemstone identification and enhance gem cutting techniques.

    Educational

    key topics

    Colour filters in gemmology

    Chelsea colour filter purpose and use

    Pleochroism and its significance in gemstone identification

    Testing for pleochroism with London Dichroscope and calcite dichroscope

    Importance of light source and gemstone orientation in testing

    Natural vs synthetic gemstone identification techniques

    key frameworks

    Colour absorption principles

    Pleochroism and optical anisotropy

    Gemstone orientation and cutting strategies

    Titles

    Mastering Gemstone Identification: The Power of Colour Filters and Pleochroism Tests

    Unlocking Gem Secrets: Chelsea Filter and Pleochroism in Gemmology

    sound bites

    "Record your observation by stating the colour scene."

    "Always think about why you're looking at the stone."

    "Share your pleochroic observations with others."

    Chapters

    00:00 Introduction to Colour Filters in Gemmology

    01:55 Understanding Pleochroism and Selective Absorption

    05:27 Testing for Pleochroism with the London Dichroscope

    10:34 Comparing the London Dichroscope and Calcite Dichroscope

    15:36 Documenting Pleochroism Observations

    17:35 Understanding Gemstone Colours and Pleochroism

    20:04 The Chelsea Colour Filter: A Gemstone Testing Tool

    26:23 Practical Applications of the Chelsea Colour Filter

    28:50 Identifying Gemstones: Colour Responses and Observations

    resources

    Gem-A - https://www.gem-a.com

    Pleochroism in Gemstones (Book) - https://www.amazon.com/pleochroism-gemstones

    Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/facetnationgemmology

    Email - facetnation@facetnation.co.uk

    gemmology, colour filters, Chelsea filter, pleochroism, gemstone identification, gem testing, gem cutting, gemmology tools

    Support the show

    32 min
  18. 27. Jadeite: A Cultural Icon

    Season 1, Episode 27

    Show notes

    Send us Fan Mail

    This episode explores the fascinating world of jadeite, covering its geology, colours, treatments, cultural significance, and the latest gemological insights. Hosted by gemmologists Lucinda and Simon, it offers a deep dive into one of the most revered gemstones across cultures.

    key topics

    Jadeite vs Nephrite

    Colours and Varieties of Jadeite

    Treatments and Impostors in Jadeite

    Cultural Significance of Jade in China and Central America

    Geology and Formation of Jadeite

    Titles

    Jadeite Unveiled: 10 Facts Every Gemologist Should Know

    The Hidden World of Jadeite: From Burma to Central America

    sound bites

    "Imperial Jade is the poster child for jadeite"

    "Mining jadeite involves cutting into massive boulders"

    "Testing includes SG, hardness, and visual clues"

    Chapters

    00:00 Introduction to Jadeite

    02:54 The Complexity of Jadeite

    05:43 Understanding Jadeite's Properties

    08:39 The Formation and Sources of Jadeite

    11:20 Cultural Significance and Jewellery of Jadeite

    14:08 Impostors and Imitations of Jadeite

    18:40 Testing and Identifying Jadeite

    26:46 Exploring Literature and Its Influence

    28:01 Understanding Specific Gravity in Gemmology

    29:59 Testing Gem Hardness and Its Implications

    31:30 Refractive Index: A Key to Gem Identification

    33:28 The Complex World of Jade Treatments

    39:14 Cultural Significance of Jade in China

    51:31 Jade's Historical Importance in Central America

    Resources

    Gem-A (Gemological Association of Great Britain) - https://gem-a.com

    Real Jade Co. - https://realjade.com

    Instagram - https://instagram.com/facetnationgemmology

    jadeite, gemmology, gemstones, jade, mineralogy, treatments, cultural significance, Guatemala jade, gem identification

    Support the show

    56 min
  19. 26. Interview: Andrew Geoghegan - Jewellery Design, Branding and Keeping it Real

    Season 1, Episode 26

    Show notes

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    Join us as we explore the journey of jewellery designer Andrew Geoghegan, from childhood fascination with treasure to creating innovative collections inspired by history and nature. Discover insights on craftsmanship, branding, and staying authentic in a digital world.

    key topics

    Andy Geoghegan's early fascination with treasure and jewellery

    The journey from university to professional jewellery design

    The importance of authenticity and personal style in branding

    Inspiration from history, nature, and personal experiences

    Challenges and insights in modern jewellery marketing

    guest name

    Andrew Geoghegan

    Titles

    From Childhood Mischief to Jewellery Mastery: Andrew Geoghegan's Creative Journey

    Unlocking the Secrets of Gem Setting and Jewellery Design

    sound bites

    "That moment sparked my love for jewellery"

    "The use of colour in jewellery is about expression"

    "Finding that relic was like discovering treasure"

    Chapters

    00:00 Introduction to Andrew Geoghegan

    01:20 The Journey Begins: Early Memories of Jewellery

    02:57 From Art College to Jewellery Design

    09:10 Building the Brand: The Early Days

    11:32 Navigating Challenges and Perseverance

    16:22 The Digital Age: Marketing Jewellery Today

    23:56 Design Inspirations and Client Connections

    30:08 The Art of Craftsmanship in Jewellery

    34:06 Innovative Use of Colour in Jewellery Design

    36:59 Embracing Individuality in Gemstone Choices

    37:21 Inspiration from Nature and History

    42:33 The Thrill of Treasure Hunting

    48:44 Launching the Treowth Collection

    resources

    Susannah King on Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/susannahkinglondon/

    The Detectorists (TV Series) - https://www.netflix.com/title/80064446

    Gemology Resources - https://www.gia.edu/

    Jewelry Design Books - https://www.amazon.com/s?k=jewelry+design

    guest links

    Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/andrewgeoghegan/

    https://andrewgeoghegan.com/

    jewellery design, gemmology, jewellery collection, craftsmanship, branding, authenticity, goldsmithing, gemstone, jewellery inspiration, digital marketing

    Support the show

    53 min
  20. 25. Interview: Wim Vertriest - GIA Field Gemmology, Gem Identification and Mozambique Rubies

    Season 1, Episode 25

    Show notes

    Send us Fan Mail

    Join us as Wim Vertriest, head of field gemmology at GIA, shares his journey from geology to gemmology, insights into Mozambique rubies, and the fascinating science behind gemstone origin determination. Discover how field gemmology connects geology, anthropology, and the gemstone trade to deepen your understanding of these precious stones.

    Key topics

    Wim Vertriest's journey from geology to gemmology

    Insights into Mozambique ruby deposits and mining practices

    The role of field gemmology in understanding gemstone origins

    Scientific techniques for gemstone identification and origin determination

    The impact of Mozambique rubies on the global gemstone market

    Guest name

    Wim Vertriest

    Titles

    The Science and Secrets of Mozambique Rubies: An Interview with Wim Vertriest

    From Geology to Gemmology: Wim Vertriest's Journey at GIA

    sound bites

    "Gemmology is about understanding the whole ecosystem."

    "Heat treatment leaves subtle but detectable clues."

    "My favourite gemstone is the Cat's Eye Chrysoberyl."

    Chapters

    00:00 Introduction to Gemmology and Guest Background

    02:57 Wim's Journey into Gemmology

    05:19 The Role of Field Gemmology

    07:55 Understanding Gemstone Origins

    10:14 Geological Mysteries of Rubies

    12:39 The Impact of Mining on Gemstones

    15:12 The Evolution of Consumer Awareness

    17:43 Building a Reliable Gemstone Collection

    20:30 The Multidisciplinary Nature of Field Gemmology

    23:04 Exploring the Origins of Sapphires

    24:09 Field Gemmology: Balancing Lab Work and Expeditions

    26:03 Research-Driven Gemmology: Filling Knowledge Gaps

    27:39 Emerging Trends in Gemstone Popularity

    29:24 The Challenges of Diamond Origin Determination

    30:37 Identifying Gemstones: The Art of Exclusion

    33:23 Declassifying Misidentified Stones

    39:55 The Canary in the Coal Mine: Ruby Heating Experiments

    44:18 The Chemistry of Gemstones

    46:47 Advanced Techniques in Gemmology

    48:08 The Rise of Mozambique Rubies

    52:42 The Evolution of Ruby Mining

    58:42 Changing Perceptions of Rubies

    01:01:11 The Future of Gemmology

    resources

    GIA Official Website - https://www.gia.edu

    Gems and Gemology Journal - https://www.gia.edu/gems-gemology

    Mozambique Ruby Mining Insights (Report) - https://www.gia.edu/mozambique-ruby-report

    Wim Vertriest's Profile on LinkedIn - https://www.linkedin.com/in/wimvertriest

    Guest links

    LinkedIn - https://www.linkedin.com/in/wimvertriest

    GIA Profile - https://www.gia.edu/wim-vertriest

    gemmology, gemstones, Mozambique rubies, gemstone origin, field gemmology, GIA, gem research, gemstone mining, gemstone identification, gem science

    Support the show

    1 hr 3 min