Fat Mascara

FM is in Paris at the studio of Guerlain Master Perfumer Delphine Jelk, only the fifth in-house perfumer in the house’s nearly 200-year history. Surrounded by more than 100 fragrance samples, Delphine answers some of your top crowd-sourced Qs, covering how to make your scent last longer, how to create your “olfactive look,” why dupes just don’t measure up, her favorite cheap and cheerful perfumes, and more.

La Petite Robe Noire, the "Mademoiselle Guerlain" she dreamed up after watching Sofia Coppola's Marie Antoinette.

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Noble Panacea CEO and co-creator Céline Talabaza has seen it all in skincare. After years at some of beauty's most respected companies, she was skeptical when first asked to build a brand around a new technology, until she learned it came from Nobel Prize–winning chemist Sir Fraser Stoddart and saw the real innovation behind it. On this episode, she explains why delivery systems matter just as much as star ingredients, makes the case for single-dose packaging, and shares what it takes to be a luxury product right now.

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On this Newsroom edition of Fat Mascara, we're joined by Julia Bellary and Sasa Li of GlowJob, the podcast about beauty and business hosted by two beauty enthusiasts from the worlds of tech and finance. We discuss how the "bleph" quickly became the most popular (and possibly most casualized) plastic surgery procedure in the world, and how girlboss culture has come back tenfold: "building in public" seems to be not an option but an order if you want to stay competitive. (See: Scarlett Johansson's recently shuttered, well-respected brand, The Outset.) We also dig into one retail insider's theory that "the luxury customer does not exist."

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Dana Capone (@thebeautylawyernyc) has a 360-degree view of the legal side of beauty, having worked with both major corporations and independent creators. (Full disclosure: She also works with Fat Mascara.) Her passion is helping people advocate for themselves, which she says is a muscle you can strengthen with every difficult conversation. In this episode, she explains her "Velvet Hammer" method for negotiating without being labeled "difficult," tips for protecting your product name, where AI fits into legal matters, how to go into business with a friend while protecting your relationship, and more. (Note: This podcast is for educational and entertainment purposes only. Nothing discussed should be construed as legal advice, nor does it create an attorney-client relationship. Laws and circumstances vary, and you should consult your own attorney regarding your specific situation.)

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Katie shares how a single Instagram question sparked the idea for her brand, KJH.Brand, now in Sephora and, until recently, entirely self-funded. (“It's quite scary,” she says of taking on investment.) We also get into why education is at the heart of everything she makes, her pet peeve about the term “self-taught,” the A-list founder group chat that keeps her sane, what it's like building a business with her husband, Tarek, and what interests her beyond beauty.

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Michelle Lee — Chief Brand Officer at Front Row and former Editor-in-Chief of Allure — joins Fat Mascara to unpack K-beauty's second wave, and why it's influencing how every brand operates. We discuss the business approach that sets K-beauty apart from the rest of the world, and drill down on the strategies K-beauty brands consistently rely on — from ingredient-first innovation and embracing multiple platforms to making every product even just 5% better. Plus, get insight into the next K-beauty trends coming down the pipeline.

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Legendary designer, performer, and the creative force that Isaac Mizrahi sits down with to talk about newly restored re-release of fashion’s favorite documentary, Unzipped, which hits theaters on September 25th before streaming in December. In this interview, we ping pong between topics like: Summers at the Jersey shore; his close friendship with the late, legendary Kevyn Aucoin; drag culture; synesthesia; Weight Watchers, Dolly Parton wisdom, what his dream beauty brand would look like, and so much more. Icon!

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A longevity doctor? In this economy? We've got her.

Dr. Amanda Kahn — affectionately known as "The Peptide Princess" — is a board-certified internist on the Upper East Side with a blocks-long waitlist. In this episode, Dr. Kahn explains what a longevity doctor actually does, what's happening in unregulated gray markets, and the troubling trends parents need to know about (and look out for). Plus: why low ferritin may be the reason you feel foggy, the supplement brand she trusts, and the simple longevity advice that costs very little at all.

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Jessica gathers three A-list plastic surgeons — Dr. Sean Alemi, Dr. Babak Azizzadeh, and Dr. Darren Smith — for a rare joint conversation on the hottest topics in aesthetics. They break down how to actually find a great surgeon and the critical questions to ask along the way. The conversation also covers how GLP-1s are reshaping their practices, why professional aftercare is becoming more commonplace, why some patients get turned away, and the controversial neck procedure the plastic surgery community can't stop discussing. This, and so much more.

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Erin Parsons is not a makeup artist anymore. On this episode of Fat Mascara, she explains why she quit the business at the very top, making the leap into full-time content creation in her 40s. Her niche: deep-diving into beauty history and finding a completely new audience, from 13-year-olds to makeup artists to "guys who don't care about makeup at all." ("I figured out the algorithm," she says.) Her most important contribution may just be The Makeup Archive (themakeuparchive.org), a nonprofit Parsons spent years building to research, preserve, and share beauty history.

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Manica Blain of Top Knot Ventures shares her perspective on TSG's major stake in Saltair, and what that may mean for the future of beauty. She breaks down the critical difference between "creator" and influencer brands, and the real reasons big beauty conglomerates aren't in a rush to add these brands to their portfolios. She also shares her predictions on which brands are poised for the next big deal.

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Fragrance expert Thomas Dunckley (aka Making Sense of Scent, formerly Candy Perfume Boy) joins us to talk about GLP-1s' unexpected role in the fragrance business, his "strong feelings about dupes," and the viral Scent Sounds series, in which Dunckley pairs perfumes with iconic albums. Plus, he shares his real thoughts on PR gifting, what "fragrance people" all seem to have in common, and the fragrances you need to smell this instant.

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Hallie Gould (Editor-in-Chief of Byrdie) and Lauren Valenti (Beauty Director of InStyle) talk about the stories getting the biggest reactions on the internet, from the kitten fur fragrance trend, Zendaya’s soft-focus blush, why spray tans are booming, CoverGirl’s Gen X pivot, and more. They also reveal some of their favorite products, from Hallie’s perfect red lipstick to Lauren’s cheap and cheerful OG mascara.

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Beauty retail whisperer Alison Hahn is one of the industry's most sought-after experts, with a track record of identifying major players like Patrick Ta, Kayali, and Makeup by Mario. On this episode of Fat Mascara: Business Desk, Hahn talks about selling to Gen Alpha, reengaging Gen Xers, beauty dupes, the big mistake celebrity founders often make, tough vendor conversations, and more.

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The Polyester queens, Ione Gamble and Gina Tonic, are back, and this time with a fabulous new book, The Polyester Book of (Bad) Taste. On this episode, we chat about the new plastic surgery status games, the return of old fashioned kitsch, why Charli XCX could only have exploded now, how wellness culture can be quite ableist, and more.

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James Pecis is one of the world's most respected, in-demand hairstylists, working with celebrities like Billie Eilish for Vogue, as the key hairstylist for Chanel's runway shows, and, of course, creating memorable looks for countless fashion ads and editorials. In this episode, James talks about why he reset his pace to prioritize family and the growth of his buzzy brand, Blu & Green, a direct response to beauty's plastic problem.

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We are taking a week off from Fat Mascara as it’s not only the United State’s 250th birthday, but it’s also...it Madonna’s Confessions II release week!!! What better interview to share with you than makeup artist Marcello Gutierrez, who is currently collaborating with The Queen of Pop herself? Marcelo is a makeup artist, creative director, filmmaker, and his work can only be described as sexy, expensive, and controversial. And we had the good fortune (and maybe foresight?) to catch him in back in 2022. Enjoy this conversation.

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NYC-based sisters Chloe and Claire Lee started the Selleb newsletter as a place to discover what beauty and fashion-obsessed people are actually buying (as verified by their receipts—i.e. no sponcon, please!). Now an app, this discovery platform allows more people to share their receipts and quickly connect with others who share a similar taste “timeline.” In this Business Desk, we talk about the five brands Gen Z is actually loyal to, why Merit has such broad appeal, the Substacks people are happy to pay for, the pricey facialist who keeps popping up, and more.

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It doesn’t get bigger than Linda Wells, the founding editor of Allure magazine, branding consultant, founder of Flesh, and now a columnist for Air Mail, and the editor of Look (Air Mail’s beauty vertical). Linda was the woman who decided beauty was worthy of its own conversation, with sharp reporting, a critical eye, and of course, a sense of humor. She brings all of that to this episode of Fat Mascara, where we talk about the eyewatering cost of facelifts, how tech bros hijacked the word “longevity”, and what the uber-rich are actually buying these days.

She also reveals her least favorite word in beauty editor-dom, as well as her favorite new beauty products.

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Makeup artist Lisa Eldridge really, really loves makeup. Yes, she works with every big fashion title and A-list celebrity (Kate Winslet, Dua Lipa), but she’s just as happy organizing her illegal pigment collection, buying vintage makeup, and studying exactly what shade of transparent red lip color her beauty icon Marilyn Monroe wore in 1952. Join us for a chat in Lisa’s NYC pop-up to discuss her beauty inspirations, makeup obsessions, and of course, pet peeves.

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