Leather Shop

In this episode:

How Ted grew up in a family of collectors

The unexpected $6 auction purchase that started his tool obsession

More than 40 years of collecting antique tools

Restoring thousands of vintage hand tools

How buying and selling helped Ted build a higher-end collection

Turning a lifelong hobby into Ted Dawson Antique Tools

Why collectors love "the hunt"

Leatherworking tools dating as far back as the 1830s

Why old tools were often built for functionality and repairability

Vintage C.S. Osborne, Gomph, Johnson and Barnsley tools

Oversized vintage leather edgers

A rare adjustable French edger

Antique leather draw gauges and strap cutters

A nineteenth-century Huber draw gauge

Barnsley leather plows

Brazilian rosewood tool handles

The difference between modern and vintage tool ergonomics

How decades of use physically wear into antique tools

The craftsmanship and ornamentation of nineteenth-century tools

Why high-quality modern hand tools still exist — but serve a smaller market

Why a vintage Stanley can sometimes provide the same functionality as a much more expensive modern hand plane

The surprisingly deep world of vintage vise collecting

Using vises and custom jigs to make a shop more versatile

Polish FPU and Bison vises with reverse-moving jaws

What to inspect before buying a vintage tool

Why rust and seized components aren't always dealbreakers

Why broken or missing internal parts can be much bigger problems

Ted's approach to restoration

Where to find Ted's collection of user tools and collector pieces

Find out more about our guest on his Website

Follow the show: https://www.leathershoppod.com · @leathershoppod

Support on Patreon for early episodes and bonus content.

Guest

Jake Houston
Houston Boot Company

What You'll Hear

Jake's journey from professional musician to full-time cowboy bootmaker

Learning bootmaking through repair work and independent study

Why stingray leather sparked the entire business

Working with kangaroo, horsehide, elephant, alligator, and crocodile

Understanding CITES regulations and state-by-state restrictions

Material costs and sourcing premium exotic leathers

How cowboy boot sizing differs from sneakers

Why arch length matters more than shoe size

Choosing and modifying lasts for bespoke footwear

Traditional cowboy boot construction and quality indicators

Leather insoles, welts, stacked heels, and wood pegs

Why custom boot fitting is far more involved than off-the-shelf sizing

How Houston Boot Company Started

Jake explains how leather carving began as a hobby while he was performing as a country musician. After searching unsuccessfully for a custom pair of stingray cowboy boots, he decided to learn bootmaking himself, eventually opening Houston Boot Company after studying repair work and traditional construction methods.

Choosing Leather for Cowboy Boots

The conversation compares several premium leathers, including kangaroo for its strength-to-weight ratio, horsehide for its appearance, elephant for durability, and the unique challenges of working with stingray and alligator. Material selection depends not only on appearance but also on workability, longevity, and intended use.

Sizing Custom Boots

Jake explains why proper cowboy boot fitting begins with arch length instead of overall foot length. The discussion covers Brannock measurements, width sizing, custom lasts, heel height, and how bespoke boots are built around an individual's foot rather than forcing the wearer into a standard size.

Inside a Handmade Cowboy Boot

From leather insoles and welt construction to stacked leather heels and wood-pegged shanks, Jake walks through many of the details that distinguish handmade boots from mass-produced footwear and explains why those traditional construction methods continue to matter today.

Find out more about our guest on his Website

Follow the show: https://www.leathershoppod.com · @leathershoppod

Support on Patreon for early episodes and bonus content.

dsfdGrant Anderson runs Uptown Common, a small handmade shop known for structured purses, briefcases, and bags with a distinctive double-color stitch line. This spring he launched a second venture, The Leather Reserve, importing MPG Industria hides from Italy after a discontinued leather nearly cost him a sale. Matt and Grant get into the making and the business in equal measure.

Highlights:

The used King Ranch F-150 whose saddle-leather interior sent Grant looking for a bag — and eventually into making his own.

Why he wet-forms nearly everything, and how he builds gusset forms out of stacked acrylic (with a belt-strap molding idea to kill clamp marks).

The two-color saddle stitch: four needles, two threads, and a "leapfrog" rhythm that skips every other hole.

Switching from waxed linen to Tiger/Ritza polyester after breaking thread mid-stitch.

The Barry King maul, and why a $90 hammer changed how the work felt.

How one discontinued hide turned into a corporation and a wire transfer to Italy in about three weeks.

Why a 50 sq-meter tannery minimum (~35 hides per color) keeps makers from buying direct.

The MPG lines coming in: Apollo, Aragona (corrected grain), and Vakeda (tumbled), plus a custom deep-red veg tan.

Episode Breakdown:

0:00 – Welcome and guest intro

1:02 – How Grant got into leather

2:09 – The King Ranch truck that started it

3:20 – Why leather longevity (and care) matters

4:26 – Hobby to business: Uptown Common

6:01 – Why most makers avoid bags

8:59 – Wet-forming for structured bags

12:15 – Acrylic forms, molds, and the strap trick

19:10 – Tools that matter: the Barry King maul

20:50 – Hand stitching vs. machine

24:22 – The jig rabbit hole

27:09 – The two-color saddle stitch

29:47 – How the four-needle "leapfrog" stitch works

36:19 – Stitching ponies and their frustrations

42:54 – The Leather Reserve origin story

47:17 – Why makers can't buy direct (minimums and shipping)

49:46 – What makes MPG leather different

55:12 – The Apollo, Aragona, and Vacchetta lines

1:02:00 – Five-year plans for both brands

1:08:18 – Leather weight and the splitting-machine question

1:13:03 – Listener questions and where to find Grant

💬 Join the Leather Shop Discord

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🧰 Check the Amazon Tool List

👉 Follow on Instagram: @leathershoppod
👉 More episodes: https://www.leathershoppod.com/
👉 All links & resources: Linktree

Guest: Alexis Saab
Sponsor: None
Primary Topic: Building a small leather goods brand from a custom footwear background
CTA: Listen to the full conversation on The Leather Shop Podcast at http://leathershoppod.com, Spotify, Apple Podcasts, and wherever you listen. Follow @leathershoppod for new episodes and clips.

Discussed in this episode

Alexis’s move from custom sneakers into small leather goods

The early direction for his new brand, Back Home

Designing a logo that works when stamped into leather

Why detailed artwork can fail when pressed into certain leather types

The skull-and-halo concept behind the Back Home mark

Learning leather through footwear, scrap leather, and experimentation

Chrome tan versus veg tan from a maker’s point of view

Why shoe patterns are harder than wallet patterns

Sneakers, boots, and dress shoes as different craft disciplines

Rush-order stress and the cost of mistakes in custom footwear

Heat-activated glue and sole attachment

Post-bed machines, roller feet, and stitching around curves

Bell skivers, machine maintenance, and workshop space

Leather community versus shoemaking community

Selling through design instead of only selling material

Alexis’s long-term goal of creating his own shoe silhouette

Mike from BulSae Leather joins Matt in this deep‑dive into Korea’s vibrant leathercraft culture. Starting with a single wallet and fueled by a passion to “make things that last longer than our lifetime,” Mike has built BulSae Leather into a small but mighty workshop known for its clean design, uncompromising hand‑work, and thoughtful storytelling. In this episode you’ll hear how a childhood fascination turned into a full‑time craft, why the name BulSae—Korean for “phoenix”—represents both heritage and reinvention, and how Mike balances tradition with modern tools in a world where “handmade” is often gate‑kept.

💬 Join the Leather Shop Discord
🧰 Check the Amazon Tool List

👉 Follow on Instagram: @leathershoppod
👉 More episodes: https://www.leathershoppod.com/
👉 All links & resources: Linktree

Support us on Patreon

IMatt sits down with Shane from Bow the Maker to talk about the tools every leatherworker thinks they need — and the ones that actually matter.

From $12 Amazon pliers to top-shelf skiving knives, they break down which tools perform, which ones disappoint, and how to buy smarter without wasting money. The two also tackle social media “tool envy,” influencer reviews, and how to build a functional bench setup at any level.

“You don’t need the prettiest tools — you need the ones that work for you.”

💬 Join the Leather Shop Discord
🧰 Check the Amazon Tool List

👉 Follow on Instagram: @leathershoppod
👉 More episodes: https://www.leathershoppod.com/
👉 All links & resources: Linktree

Support us on Patreon

In this episode, Matt talks with Will Hodges of Treve Cambridge about the art of fine leatherwork. They explore the tools and techniques behind luxury craftsmanship, from handling exotic skins to achieving precision with stitching and skiving.

👉 Follow on Instagram: @leathershoppod
👉 More episodes: https://www.leathershoppod.com/
👉 Recommended tools: Amazon Shop

👉 All links & resources: Linktree

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Inside Mack Provisions: Craftsmanship Beyond the Field

In this episode of The Leather Shop, Matt Roach is joined by KC of Mack Provisions, a handmade baseball glove company rooted in old-school leatherworking and modern craftsmanship. From glove relacing as a teenager to launching a full-time custom glove brand, KC shares his journey, philosophy, and what makes his gloves truly unique.

Whether you're a leatherworker, player, or lover of timeless design, this is your behind-the-scenes pass into glove-making at its finest.

🔍 Episode Highlights

Why Chrome-Tanned Leather Reigns Supreme

How KC Learned Craftsmanship in an Alaskan Tent Shop

The Horween Leather Advantage

Canvas vs. Leather: What You Need to Know

The Great Glove Break-In Debate

Tools of the Trade: Cylinder Arm Machines, Tex 135 Thread, and More

Why Suede Welting is Making a Comeback

About KC & Mack Provisions

KC started relacing gloves for teammates at age 13. After stints in Alaska sewing canvas tents and marine gear, he transitioned into building premium handmade baseball gloves using materials like Horween’s Ball Glove X leather, real shearling padding, and custom welting techniques.

His approach blends nostalgia with durability, favoring rugged, vintage aesthetics and minimal synthetic components. Each glove is made to order, emphasizing craftsmanship over mass production.

📷 Follow KC on Instagram: @mackprovisions

Craft Tips from the Episode

The Truth About Glove Construction

“Sewing a baseball glove is the hardest thing I’ve ever sewn—and I’ve worked on yachts, tents, and boat canvas.” – KC

Why Thread and Machine Choice Matter

Use UV-rated nylon thread like Tex 135, and invest in a cylinder arm machine for maximum control.

Break-in Methods

Skip the water dunk. Use a mallet and play catch for best results—especially when using wool padding.

Related Episodes

🎙️How Scott Makes Gloves: The Deep Craft of Baseball Leather

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📌 Know someone obsessed with baseball or handmade goods? Share this episode!

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Guest: Stevie, founder of Hellbound and Back Leather
Host: Matt Roach | @leathershoppod

What We Cover:

How Stevie pivoted from trauma healthcare to custom leatherwork

Designing niche gear for trap shooting and shotgun sports

What it's like being a left-handed maker in a right-handed world

Tools, templates, wetmolding, and avoiding edge paint at all costs

Mom life, creative hustle, and pricing one-off commissions

Mentions:

Trap shooting tips and terminology

Bonded stiffeners like Bontex

Edge paint favorites: Giardini vs. Vernice

Listen ifyou love: leatherworking, craft entrepreneurship, gear for sports, or behind-the-scenes process talk from makers who live it.

🎯 Rate + review us on Apple Podcasts or Spotify to help more leather lovers find the show.

Connect with Us:

Website: https://leathershoppod.com/

Instagram & TikTok: @leathershoppod

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In Part 2 of our maker Q&A, Shane Bowman (Bow the Maker) is back with Matt to tackle more of your leathercraft questions. This episode is all about tools, technique, and getting real about the ups and downs of making. Whether you're a beginner wondering how to design your first pattern or an experienced maker debating hand stitching vs. machine work, there's something here for you.

What We Cover in This Episode:

Why Vinymo is Shane's go-to thread—and what other budget-friendly options are out there

The truth about thread sizing, sheen, and durability

Pattern-making 101: the analog method Shane recommends for beginners

The best ways to work through a creative block

Tools that are truly worth your money (parallel pliers, anyone?)

A real talk breakdown on hand-stitching vs. machine-stitching

Why community support is essential—and where to find it

Free Digital 3D Printing Jig Pattern

Want to try fixing your Sinabroks French Style Pricking Irons? Now you can, below are multiple ways for you get get a jig to print yourself or buy one that can be made and mailed to you.

Purchase premade from Leather Shop Website

Makers World Download- (For Bambu Labs Printers.)

Download the file from Printables

Digital File from Leather Shop Website

Connect with Us:

Website: https://leathershoppod.com/

Instagram & TikTok: @leathershoppod

Support us on Patreon

🛠️ Hosted by Matt Roach | Guest: Shane Bowman (@bowthemaker) Website

he questions came from you — and now it’s time to dive in. In this special listener-submitted Q&A, I sat down with Shane Bowman (aka Bow the Maker) to answer the things you’ve been dying to know about leathercraft, gear, and growing a small maker brand.

From how Shane got into laser engraving (and why it cost him thousands) to the tools he’d buy again (and the ones he wouldn’t), this episode covers the business, the craft, and the chaos that comes with turning a passion into a profession.

We also talk about:

What makes good pattern design (and why most of them suck)

Clicker dies and the Temu trap

Choosing gear that fits your craft — not just the hype

Whether you’re just starting out or leveling up your shop, this one’s packed with real advice, hard-earned lessons, and enough banter to keep your glue from drying out.

🎧 This is Part 1 — we got so many great questions, we had to split it in two.

🛠️ Hosted by Matt Roach | Guest: Shane Bowman (@bowthemaker)

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In this episode of Leather Shop, we sit down with Sarah Roe, founder and artisan behind Stitch & Roe, a brand dedicated to transforming vintage baseball mitts into bespoke leather goods. Sarah shares her journey of upcycling cherished mitts into wallets, keychains, and more, preserving the memories embedded in each piece. We explore the meticulous craftsmanship involved, the sentimental value of repurposing family heirlooms, and the challenges of working with diverse leather qualities. Whether you’re a leathercraft enthusiast or someone who treasures family history, this episode offers a heartfelt look into creating timeless pieces that carry personal stories forward.

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This episode is sponsored by Bow the Maker

In this episode of The Leather Shop, host Matt Roach sits down with Justin from Wylie’s Wood and Leather to explore his fascinating journey from Hollywood actor and producer to a skilled craftsman of wood and leather goods. Dive into the challenges and triumphs of leaving behind a traditional career to pursue a life of creativity and self-reliance. Justin shares stories about his early days in Los Angeles, his transition from TV production to woodworking, and his deep passion for crafting quality, enduring products. Plus, the duo discusses the importance of preserving traditional skills in a disposable society, tools every maker needs, and the joys (and struggles) of shop organization. A must-listen for creators, DIY enthusiasts, and anyone seeking inspiration to chase their dreams.

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Explore the journey of Corbin Edwards, founder of Corbin Lane Leather Co., as he shares how he transitioned from knife-making to leathercraft and built a thriving handmade leather business. Learn the challenges he overcame, the lessons for starting a small creative business, and insights for aspiring leatherworkers, craftsmen, and entrepreneurs.

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In this episode of Leather Shop, we dive deep into the art of crafting baseball gloves with the legendary Scott Carpenter. From his beginnings in the New York art world to revolutionizing baseball glove design, Scott shares his fascinating journey and the intricate process behind creating the perfect glove. Discover the secrets, innovations, and passion that drive his craft. Whether you’re a baseball fan or a leather enthusiast, this episode offers a captivating inside look at the intersection of sports and craftsmanship.

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Ever wondered how an engineer becomes a master craftsman? Join us as we explore Zach Herberholz's fascinating journey from electrical engineering to mastering blacksmithing and leatherwork.

In this episode of "The Leather Shop Podcast," host Matt Roach sits down with Zach Herberholz of ZH Fabrications, a renowned blacksmith and leatherworker. Zach shares his inspiring story of leaving a traditional career to pursue his passion for fabrication. Learn about the unique intersection of blacksmithing and leathercraft, and how Zach's innovative designs stand out in the craft community.

Join us on Patreon

Episode Highlights:

Zach's bold transition from electrical engineering to full-time fabrication.

How Zach’s background in architecture and design influences his work.

Essential tools and materials for both blacksmithing and leatherwork.

Practical tips on maintaining and honing tools for optimal performance.

The evolving role of social media in the craft industry.

Advice for aspiring crafters on staying motivated and finding joy in the creative process.

Join us for an inspiring conversation filled with practical tips, personal stories, and a deep dive into the world of blacksmithing and leathercraft. Whether you're a seasoned professional or a hobbyist, this episode is sure to ignite your passion for crafting.

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Discover the inspiring journey of Kayleena from Wrackline Leatherware in this captivating episode of the Leather Shop podcast. Kayleena shares her innovative approach to leathercraft, blending traditional techniques with modern artistry. Whether you’re into DIY projects, small business entrepreneurship, or simply love hearing about creative pursuits, this episode offers valuable insights and practical tips. Learn how Kayleena built her brand, the challenges she overcame, and her secrets to success. Perfect for hobbyists and entrepreneurs alike, tune in for a story that bridges passion with craftsmanship.

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Join us on Patreon

Episode Notes:

1. Introduction:

• Meet Kayleena, the creative force behind Wrackline Leatherware.

• Learn how she transformed her passion into a thriving business.

2. Segment 1: Kayleena’s Business Journey:

• Discover the unique story behind Wrackline Leatherware.

• Insights into launching a successful leathercraft business.

3. Segment 2: Artistic and Crafting Techniques:

• Explore Kayleena’s innovative approach to leathercraft.

• Tips on blending traditional techniques with modern artistry.

4. Segment 3: Business Strategies and Advice:

• Practical advice for aspiring leathercrafters and entrepreneurs.

• How to market and grow a niche craft business.

5. Conclusion:

• Key takeaways and actionable tips from Kayleena.

• Call-to-action: Subscribe, rate, and review for more inspiring episodes.

Special thanks to all our partners. Their support makes this content possible. Please visit these sites below to purchase products discussed on this episode.

Leather Machine Co

Milwaukee Steel Rule Dies

This month on "Leather Shop," we're joined by Shane from Bow the Maker, who dives into an array of topics including his exciting new business venture that offers customized snaps for makers of all sizes. Shane shares his unique approach to leathercrafting, revealing how his passion for art seamlessly integrates into every facet of his business. Tune in for an inspiring session that bridges traditional craftsmanship with innovative business ideas.

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Episode Notes:

01:36 The Journey of a Maker: From Woodworking to Leathercraft

04:18 Embracing the Maker's Spirit: Challenges and Triumphs

05:06 The Leap into Leathercraft: A Tale of Passion and Pens

15:17 Crafting a Business: The Birth of Bow the Maker

22:14 The Art of Sharing Knowledge in the Maker Community

29:15 Innovating the Craft: Laser Engraving and Beyond

39:17 Expanding Horizons: New Ventures and Maker Support

49:11 Navigating the Leather Crafting Journey: Tips and Community Insights

49:37 The Maker's Dilemma: Balancing Exploration and Economics

50:16 Fostering a Supportive Maker Community

51:11 The Business Side of Crafting: Selling and Pricing Strategies

52:40 Innovating with Unique Products: The Challenge of Pricing

58:48 The Value of Community Feedback and Collaboration

59:18 Navigating Different Maker Spaces: Leathercraft vs. Lasering

01:01:39 The Importance of Kindness and Support in Online Communities

01:07:35 Personal Growth and Learning in the Maker Space

01:29:17 The Challenges and Rewards of Sharing Your Work Online

01:34:53 Creating and Nurturing a Positive Maker Community

01:37:15 Navigating the World of Online Communities and Learning

01:37:47 The Evolution of Sewing Machines and Leather Crafting

01:38:39 The Beauty of Simplicity in Craftsmanship

01:40:23 The Aesthetics vs. Functionality Debate in Crafting Tools

01:42:48 Embracing Technology: The Rise of 3D Printing in Crafting

01:43:40 The Journey of Learning and Sharing in the Crafting Community

01:45:38 The Challenges and Triumphs of Crafting

01:46:41 The Value of Minimalism and Efficiency in Crafting

01:55:51 Exploring the Potential of Splits in Leather Crafting

02:09:33 Looking Ahead: The Future of Crafting and Community Building

Special thanks to all our partners. Their support makes this content possible. Please visit these sites below to purchase products discussed on this episode.

Leather Machine Co

Milwaukee Steel Rule Dies

In this engaging conversation between Matt Roach and Alexis Saab on "The Leather Shop" podcast, they delve deep into the world of custom shoe crafting, sharing their personal journeys from painting to leatherwork, exploring the intricacies of the craft, and discussing the challenges and rewards of creating custom sneakers. They exchange insights on the tools and techniques that have shaped their work, reflecting on the continuous learning and adaptation required to excel in the dynamic field of bespoke footwear.

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Crafting Custom Shoes: Exploration of Leatherwork, Tools, Techniques and Trends

00:00 Introduction and Guest Introduction

00:42 Alexi Saab's Journey into Handmade Sneakers

01:32 The Art of Customizing Shoes

02:19 The Shoe Surgeon's Influence and Learning Experience

03:03 Challenges and Learning Curve in Leather Crafting

03:59 The Importance of Understanding Leather Types

05:43 The Journey of Learning and Experimenting with Suede

09:24 The Transition from Painting to Leather Crafting

12:45 The Role of Machines in Leather Crafting

14:56 The Art of Making Leather Sneakers

17:14 The Challenges and Solutions in Leather Crafting

20:38 The Use of Technology in Leather Crafting

31:51 The Marvel of Custom Leather Design

36:11 Exploring the World of Custom Printing

36:42 The Art of Custom Sneakers

37:07 Shoutout to Fellow Customizers

37:48 The Journey to Making Custom Shoes

38:19 The Challenges of Shoe Making

39:33 The Intricacies of Shoe Sewing Machines

40:10 The Struggles of Choosing the Right Machine

42:54 The Importance of the Right Sewing Machine Foot

50:17 The Dream of Designing Custom Sneakers

51:27 The Reality of Shoe Making Business

56:22 The Importance of the Right Tools in Leather Crafting

01:02:51 The Impact of Shipping and Duties on Business

01:13:42 The Significance of a Good Knife in Leather Crafting

01:17:02 Debating the Size of Blades

01:17:13 Discussing the Kiwi Purchase

01:17:28 Comparing Plastic and Plywood Kiwis

01:18:31 The Importance of Knife Sharpness

01:19:15 Discovering the Kiwi Creators

01:20:04 The Excitement of Supporting Local Brands

01:20:53 The Connection to Local Brands

01:22:34 The Thread Debate

01:25:33 The Challenges of Changing Pricking Irons

01:43:47 The Future of Custom Shoes

01:49:00 Wrapping Up the Conversation

Special thanks to all our partners. Their support makes this content possible. Please visit these sites below to purchase products discussed on this episode.

Leather Machine Co

Milwaukee Steel Rule Dies

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00:00 Introduction and Apologies for the Missed Episode

00:32 Introducing the Guest: Ben from Benjamin Bot

01:15 Technical Difficulties and Scheduling Challenges

01:37 Ben's Journey into Leather Crafting

02:51 The Challenges of Starting in Leather Crafting

04:00 The Evolution of Ben's Leather Crafting Techniques

05:06 Discussion on Design Choices and Techniques

05:50 The Use of Machinery in Leather Crafting

06:42 Keeping Tools Sharp and Efficient

08:48 The Art of Edge Finishing

10:41 The Struggles with Sandpaper and Other Materials

12:51 The Process of Designing and Creating Wallets

15:28 The Importance of Customer Feedback and Improvement

19:27 The Use of a Clicker in Leather Crafting

22:26 The Challenges of Keeping Tools Sharp

28:15 The Use of a 3D Printer in Leather Crafting

48:16 Introduction to Bamboo Labs

48:42 Unboxing the X1 Carbon

49:07 Exploring the Features of X1 Carbon

49:26 Practical Applications of X1 Carbon

50:08 The Speed and Efficiency of X1 Carbon

50:51 The Versatility of 3D Printing

51:34 The Challenges of Space and Temperature

53:11 The Joy of Prototyping

53:51 The Power of 3D Printing

55:38 The Magic of Carbon Fiber

56:05 Learning Fusion and Measuring Techniques

57:31 The Art of Making Leather Snaps

58:57 The Future of Leather Crafting

01:04:59 The Journey of a Craftsman

01:05:33 The Beauty of Failing and Learning

01:06:59 The High Cost of Leather Crafting

01:09:30 The Evolution of Style and Craft

01:12:19 The Power of Creativity and Innovation

01:16:36 The Future of BB Brand

01:20:09 The Joy of Being a Lefty

01:22:57 The Journey of a Craftsman: Part 2

01:28:50 Conclusion: The Power of Community

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Okada Plane

Crimson Hides Sanding Block

Special thanks to all our partners. Their support makes this content possible. Please visit these sites below to purchase products discussed on this episode.

Leather Machine Co

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