On The Scent

This week, we’re getting into the Halloween spirit with scented storytelling, catching up on fragrance news and sniffing our way through everything from fizzy cola and whisky warmth to sultry florals and swelling seas. There’s news of a fragrant shopping destination returning to London, too, plus plenty to tempt you into adding another scent to your wish list.

Our two-times award-winning Halloween Scented Stories bring together spooky storytelling and fragrance, pairing a tale with scents to conjure its atmosphere. Watch @onthescentpodcast on our Instagram stories or catch up in Highlights (the circle beneath our bio).

On The Scent Magazine available to purchase in print or read online / weekly news blogs (and you can listen to On The Scent podcast and get links to all the fragrances mentioned at http://onthescentmedia.com/)

We know a lot of our listeners will be excited to visit @thepopupperfumery again this year!

Details:

10 - 14 November

A collaborative project between independent fragrance brands and retailers. A space for scent lovers to shop and meet perfumers and founders.

Opening hours:

Tue- Fri: 12pm - 6.30pm

Sat: 12pm - 7pm

Location:

41 Store Street

London WCIE 7DB

Fragrances Nicola mentioned:

Valentino Vendetta Donna

‘The olfactive pact between the solar carnality of tuberose, the addictive brightness of a red orange nectar accord and the unctuosity of enveloping woods creates a bold and sensual presence, designed for a confident and magnetic woman. Narcotic tuberose from Colombia opens with warm, solar carnality, whilst an exclusive red orange nectar accord brings addictive, liqueur-like sweetness. Sandalwood anchors the base with creamy, magnetic sensuality.’

Viktor & Rolf Bonbon Cola Fizz

‘A fragrance designed for those who crave the effervescent pop of an ice-cold cola and its sliced lemon during a hot summer day. A sensorial whisper that says: treat yourself.

Double the delight: layer with Bonbon Berry Jelly or Bonbon Caramel Crunch to reinvent your gourmand signature. Crave it. Collect it. Spray it.’

Maison de L’Assie Rivière Siam

‘Life and the quiet beauty all around us. Riviére Siam opens contemplative yet bright with delicate citrus and balmy florals, capturing the golden warmth of the sunset viewed from the riverbanks.

Top Notes: orange blossom, bergamot, lavender

Heart Notes: suede, osmanthus, sandalwood

Base Notes: musk, amberwood, vanilla.’

Chefs mentioned:

Jozef Youssef of Kitchen Theory:

https://www.instagram.com/jozef_youssef?exln=MXJwYjAxN3VrOW82YQ==

Pratap Chahal of That Hungry Chef:

https://www.instagram.com/thathungrychef?cplk=c2VqYXZzb29oYjho

Fragrances Suzy mentioned:

Jo Malone London Vanilla Scotch:

‘Scotch accord: A warm accord evocative of aged oak barrels and golden amber.

Heart Note: vanilla

It adds an enveloping and sensual warmth.

Base Note: amber

A note that wraps the fragrance with woody warmth, imbuing the fragrance with sensuality.’

Chloe Atelier des Fleurs Cedrus de Nuit

‘Elevate your fragrance collection with Chloé Atelier des Fleurs Cedrus de Nuit Eau de Parfum, which captures the sensual allure of Parisian nights through a rich floral composition. This scent reveals the queen of the night flower, blending honeyed and spiced notes with dark vanilla and resinous benzoin for a captivating experience.

Immerse your senses in the intoxicating aroma of jasmine, gardenia, vanilla, and magnolia, creating a fruity and musky floral bouquet that is both exotic and creamy. The deep cobalt blue bottle, shaped with undulated glass, reflects the elegance and mystery of the fragrance within.’

Goldfield & Banks Pacific Rock Swell

‘Celebrating 10 years of Goldfield & Banks, Pacific Rock Swell Extrait de Parfum marks a new chapter in the Pacific Collection, building on the legacy of Pacific Rock Moss with a richer, more textured and intense expression of the ocean.

Fresh oceanic bursts and crisp citrus meet sun-warmed woods and cool mineral clarity, while seaweed introduces a darker, more textural depth. Marine and captivating, it captures the moment before the break, when the tide gathers power and the ocean begins to rise.’

Roja Elysium Absolue

‘A new chapter in the Elysium legend, Roja's Elysium Absolue is created for the woman who shapes her own destiny. As she journeys across a fantastical wonderland, sensual roses unfurl in her wake, their beauty enhanced by the sweetness of fruits. Radiant, captivating and endlessly alluring, this eau de parfum paints a vivid vision through a harmony of floral elegance and luscious notes.

Top Notes: fig, lychee, raspberry, cassis

Middle Notes: rose, ylang ylang, neroli, tuberose

Base Notes: pink pepper, patchouli, vetiver, orris butter, elemodor cyclescent, benzoin, sandalwood, ambergris, musks.’

Experimental Perfume Club Cigarette After S**

‘The ritual of a cigarette without the smoke.

Warmth first, the kind that settles into skin rather than fills a room. Musk and ambroxan build a raw, sensual heat, while tonka and sesame soften it into an ashy, woody warmth. What lingers is the comfort after it, the pause afterwards, worn close to the body, for the wearer's pleasure.

Key notes: tonka bean, rice, sandalwood, suede leather, white musk, ambroxan, white moss.

Composed from: The mineral spice of Cardamom Moss, the toasted gourmand of Tonka Sesame and the creamy depth of Sandalwood Musk, blended into a third scent none could be alone.’

We couldn’t do better than quote our brilliant guest Dr Kate Lister’s own bulging

bio: ‘a history sleuth with a passion for uncovering the wild tales of the past. You

might know me from my bestselling books, “A Curious History of Sex” and

“Harlots, Whores, and Hackabouts: A History of Sex for Sale,” where I spill the

tea on our ancestors’ sex lives.’ When she’s not ‘deep-diving into historical

hanky-panky’, Kate hosts the award-winning History Hit podcast, Betwixt the

Sheets, where she and her guests (including an episode with Suzy on historical

fragrances) ‘time-travel through the sauciest and most scandalous stories in

history.’

But there’s something else that Kate’s become passionate about – other than her

eternal quest for the best red lipstick in the world – which makes us love her

even more... In this episode we delve deeper into Kate’s burgeoning olfactory

obsession, which she fully admits was Suzy’s fault, as Kate purchased the

perfumes Suzy spoke about when she was a Betwixt guest – and as we all know,

it’s a slippery scented slope from there.

You can listen to that episode here: https://shows.acast.com/betwixt-the-

sheets/episodes/cleopatra-to-jane-austen-perfumes-of-powerful-women

From Kate’s early experiments with perfumes she and her peers dabbed and

dabbled with in their youth, through to expressing her personality, and finding

fragrances she’s now fallen madly in love with; of course, our conversations took

an historical turn. Among our discussions: what people in the past actually

smelled like (did they stink, as many people assume?), the cultural controls over

what women were supposed to smell of, why we have a deep longing to smell

like forest witches, and a disturbing revelation of how and why Lysol was first

marketed to women.

We think you’ll agree that Kate was an utterly fascinating guest, and we’re

determined to get her back for a Part Two! (Once she’s tried even more of the

fragrance recommendations Suzy is going to send her. Sorry in advance, Kate...

Dr Kate Lister’s Fragrance List:

Body shop Dewberry

Calvin Klein CK Be

Gap Grass (the original)

Gap Heaven (the original)

Rook Forest

Histoire de parfum Encens Roi

Histoire de Parfum 1968

Wales Perfumery Celtic Perfume Discovery Set

Le Labo Santal 33

Stora Skuggan Sylphium

Suzy suggested: Andrea Maack Coven (and has a whole list of other suggestions

to send Kate)

Kate’s favourite novel: Perfume: Story of a Murderer by Patrick Süskind

Suzy also suggested Kate read Smells: A Culturial History of Odours in Early

Modern Times by Robert Muchembled

And Suzy also insisted that Kate (and anyone equally fascinated by the science

and history of our sense of smell) attend next year’s IFRA Fragrance Forum,

which you can find out more about in a forthcoming blog feature at

https://www.onthescentmedia.com/

You can watch videos of previous IFRA lectures on their website:

https://www.ifrauk.org/fragrance-forum-2025

Can you imagine a whole day dedicated to wandering the streets of Paris and smelling their scented wares? Utter olfactory heaven, right?! Well, recently Suzy had a morning and afternoon to do just this, and in this week’s episode, she and Nicola retrace her steps and recall the gorgeous and inspiring Parisian boutiques she managed to visit, reviewing each of the fragrances sniffed and recounting the memories they evoke.

Nicola also adds some personal recommendations of places to stop and watch the world go by and have a spot of lunch - should you be so inclined to follow the perfumed path Suzy took, and which Nicola so fondly remembers during her time of living in Paris.

From exclusive Parisian perfumes not sold anywhere else, to newly launched scents, and the unique architecture and aesthetics that make these houses so worth your time - why not settle down with a (good) coffee and fresh croissant, and indulge in this Parisian fragrant fantasy of an afternoon with On The Scent podcast…

Boutiques Suzy visited during a morning and afternoon in Paris…

Maison Crivelli

314 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, France

Designed by founder Thibaud Crivelli alongside Myriam Akl, the space functions as an "agora of perfume" combining personal objects collected ted from his travels, a stunning woven ceiling in the consultation room upstairs, signature terracotta tones, burnt wood curved benches, sculptural totems, and a series of interactive exploration boxes for visitors.

Ex Nihilo

326 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris

Designed like a contemporary art gallery combining architecture, lighting, and modern design. The Osmologue is an exclusive in-store technology system that lets visitors personalise and tailor signature fragrances to their individual preferences.

Paris exclusives:

Timeless Lovers

‘An exclusive fragrance created for the Galeries Lafayette, as an ode to Paris, it embodies the city's universal elegance and its romantic spirit.

Paris, the cradle of passion, proudly displays a flaming red color, reminding the typical red lipstick Parisian women wear. The fragrance opens with a spicy Pink Pepper top, then in the heart Cedarwood gently compliments a sensual yet sophisticated floral heart of Rose.

Eventually, Leather & Amber notes with Agarwood bring depth and power to this Parisian love story.’

Paname Palace by Ex Nihilo is a fresh, fruity unisex fragrance released in 2022. The composition opens with a bright and slightly spicy accord of bergamot, cinnamon, and pink pepper, leading into a heart where creamy fig is paired with rose and ylang-ylang. The base blends cedarwood, tonka bean, and vetiver, giving the scent a woody, softly sweet, and earthy drydown. This fragrance is available exclusively in the brand's Paris store.

BDK

Velvet Tonka Extrait

‘Almondy and vanilla-infused, Velvet Tonka is an oriental gourmand creation dusted with icing sugar, built around tonka bean, almond and orange blossom.

Velvet Tonka celebrates the tonka bean, between powdery softness and woody facets, like an oriental indulgence dusted with powdered sugar. Paired with almond and orange blossom, which lend it a luminous facet, it unfolds in a vanilla and honeyed accord, wrapped in amyris wood and tobacco. An addictive, velvety and translucent trail.’

"The scent of tonka bean has always been reminiscent of Proust's madeleines for me. Brazilian tonka bean enriches the perfumer's palette and creations with its warm and sensual almond notes. I am particularly fond of its balmy character and its milky hay aspect, which makes it incredibly addictive." Perfumer Alexandra Carlin

Solferino

310 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris

Lumiére d’Automne

‘Inspired by autumn in Paris, where golden light dances across Haussmann façades and trees are dressed in amber hues. This gourmand fragrance unfolds around a roasted chestnut accord,creamy and addictive, blending into a comforting trail of vanilla and sandalwood.’

‘The fragrance opens with notes of angelica, carrot seeds and ambrette, bringing a musky, aromatic breath. At its heart, roasted chestnut reveals a creamy, delicately smoky sweetness, evoking the melting flesh of a chestnut still warm from the fire. In the base, vanilla, benzoin and sandalwood come together to create a warm, enveloping atmosphere. An authentic olfactory stroll, celebrating the understated elegance and beauty of Parisian light in autumn.’

"I wanted to capture the golden light of autumn in Paris and the comforting gourmand emotion of roasted chestnuts, memories that are inseparable from this season."

Yann Vasnier – Givaudan

Acqua di Parma

205 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris

Created in collaboration with French designer Dorothée Meilichzon, blending Italian craftsmanship with a Parisian aesthetic. It features signature architectural arches, high-gloss yellow lacquer accents, marmorino walls, and wooden totems shaped like the iconic Colonia perfume bottle. Features an intimate consultation space at the back of the boutique highlighting the Maison's history and iconic collections.

Matiére Premiére

306 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris

‘The new 46-square-meter space reflects the brand’s philosophy. Designed by Swedish architects Halleroed, the boutique features limestone, wood, bronze, and handblown blue glass. Therefore, the space feels both refined and rooted in craftsmanship.Inside, visitors find two distinct areas. One displays the full fragrance collection. The other offers a sensory journey through raw ingredients. Because these materials change with the seasons, each visit feels new.’

Fragonard

207 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris

‘Founded in 1926 in Grasse, France, Fragonard is a family-run perfumery known for classic floral compositions and distinctive golden aluminum estagnon bottles. A stone's throw from the Jardin des Tuileries and the Place Vendôme, the Saint-Honoré boutique offers in a magnificent setting all the Fragonard ranges: perfumery, cosmetics, fashion, accessories and decorative objects.’

L'Oranger

This is a special anniversary fragrance centered around its signature orange blossom heritage. Created by perfumer Daniela Andrier, it features a bright bouquet of bergamot, Italian green mandarin, and lemon petitgrain at the top, a heart of orange blossom absolute blended with lavender and French cypress, and a soft base of white musks and blond woods.

Orange blossom has been Fragonard's signature scent since 2004, and the brand also celebrated the 2026 centenary with a special heart-shaped, orange-blossom-scented stamp issued by La Poste

Guerlain

356 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris

‘Scent creations are stored in a temperature-controlled, UV-protected cellar designed similarly to a fine wine cellar (grand crus) to preserve the integrity of the perfumes. • Visitors can customize iconic bee bottles and flacons by selecting bottle colors, custom text engraving, neck threads, ribbons, and packaging. These custom designs are recorded in a serial-numbered logbook, and the bee bottles can be permanently refilled.’

Maison Diptyque

7 Rue Duphot, 75001 Paris

‘Located in one of the French capital's most prestigious areas, halfway between a boutique and a cultural centre, you'll find iconic Diptyque creations and a range of artistic and cultural experiences, all in an architectural setting reminiscent of a Parisian aesthete's apartment. Designed like a 400m² Parisian aesthete's apartment featuring rooms such as a library, garden, home fragrance salon, bathing salon, and museum/exhibition spaces. Iconic and exclusive Diptyque creations, perfume refills, personalised engraving, gift boxes, recycling services, and rotating artistic or cultural events. Enjoy an exclusive personalised service in Le Salon Privé, where you can turn your inspiration into reality and create an extraordinary made-to-measure extra-large candle. 200 possible combinations of scents and finishes for a singular and precious creation.’

Officine Universelle Buly

45 Rue de Saintonge, 75003 Paris, France (in the Le Marais district)

A 19th-century-style apothecary counter paired with a revival of the historic Grand Café Tortoni, blending fine fragrances with a classic Parisian café experience.

Menu Highlights: Artisanal espresso, homemade hot chocolate, tea, flavored sodas, and French pastries like Tonka bean madeleines and double-raspberry tartlets.

Service Options: Features an indoor marble counter and a traditional street-side service window (à la fenêtre)

Nicola’s recommendations of places for a lunch break during a ‘sniffari’ in Paris:

“It’s Rue st Dominique for the cafes and where I used to live…

Le Jardin de Mademoiselle 69 rue st Dominique is very quirky and cute.

And the market is on Rue Cler

Both in the 7th arr!”

Which of these would you like to visit, we wonder? Are you curious to try any of the exclusives? And where else would you visit…?

Also; Don’t forget to look at Nicola & Alice du Parcq’s Parisian pharmacy must-haves saved on their Instagram highlights - @outspokenbeautynicola & @aliceduparcq respectively.

And finally: the quirky little independent parfumerie Suzy was trying to remember the name of (and didn’t have time to visit on the one day she had in Paris this time) is called Marie Antoinette (how could she forget?!) It’s a delightful bunch perfumery with many differing brands to explore. Located in Le Marais at 5 Rue d'Ormesson, 75004 Paris.

And you can explore online, here: https://www.marieantoinetteparis.fr/

5 Rue d'Ormesson, 75004 Paris, France

Fancy a scented tour through unexpected florals (via toasted seeds and cool green leaves), autumnal sunsets in California, walled gardens where a warrior goddess might stroll, impeccably tailored heritage, and a gloriously gilded pop fantasy? Step right this way, because this week Suzy & Nicola are discussing perfumes for taking a calm breath, for making an entrance, for leaning into your own glow, and the pleasure of simply choosing the perfect scent to suit the moment.

They’re also asking whether fragrance can influence mood, considering solid perfume in a new jelly-like form, and finding plenty to discuss in a line-up that moves from poised and polished to maximalist, sensual and gloriously escapist…

Let’s dive in!

Dries Van Noten Velvet Violet

Violet is so often treated as a sugary, powdery floral that it is genuinely refreshing to find it approached from a greener, more fashion-conscious angle. Here, the leaf is the real focus, giving a cool, woody freshness that feels crisp and modern rather than cosmetic. Pink pepper adds a fizzy brightness, then the texture shifts. Toasted sesame is nutty and savoury, barley brings a softly cereal-like warmth, and vetiver with tonka bean leaves a smooth, earthy-gourmand glow on skin.

The effect is tactile and surprisingly chic, with a lovely tension between freshly crushed green leaves and the almost skin-like warmth of toasted seeds. This is violet for those who usually avoid violet, and a quietly unusual choice for anyone who likes their florals with a little friction.

Notes: Violet leaf, pink pepper, sesame, barley, vetiver, tonka bean.

L’Objet Alento

Named for a word that can mean breath, spirit, encouragement and vital energy, this is a perfume conceived as an olfactory pause. The opening is bright with juicy orange, though aldehydes give it a sparkling, airy lift that stops it from becoming too obviously fruity. Orange blossom flows through the heart with a fresh, creamy radiance, before lactones, vanilla, ambergris and white musks soften into a cocooning, close-to-skin finish.

It feels less like a perfume that announces itself and more like a gentle return to oneself. There is a luminous cleanliness to it, but enough milkiness, warmth and musk to make it feel sensual rather than merely fresh. A lovely choice for anyone craving comfort that still has a little glow about it.

Notes: Top: Orange, aldehydes Heart: Orange blossom, fresh floral notes, lactones Base: Vanilla, ambergris, white musks

L’Objet Ojai

This begins with the imagined warmth of a California afternoon, when the air is bright with citrus and green things, and the earth has started to hold onto the day’s heat. Bergamot, a green note and cardamom have a breezy, aromatic freshness, before the mango comes through with a rich, softly tropical glow. Bulgarian rose and saffron lend colour and texture, making the fruit feel more nuanced than merely juicy.

As it settles, patchouli, frankincense and vanilla bring a dusky, ambery depth that is far more soulful than a straightforward fruity floral. It smells like sun on skin, fruit warmed on the branch, and a trace of incense carried through an open window. This is for days when a perfume needs to offer an instant sense of escape, while still feeling grounded and wearable.

Notes: Top: Bergamot, green note, cardamom Heart: Mango, Bulgarian rose, saffron Base: Patchouli, frankincense, vanilla

Boadicea the Victorious Andraste

This is a full, dramatic walled garden scent, where hot brick, flowering vines, crushed greenery and aromatic herbs all seem to release their perfume at once. It has the kind of lavish, maximalist construction that Boadicea the Victorious does so well, combining cool eucalyptus and smoky Lapsang Souchong tea with saffron, thyme and a cascade of flowers. Honeysuckle, wisteria, jasmine and rose create an all-consuming floral richness, while powdered orris, ambrette, leather, fumed woods and vetiver darken the edges.

There is a sense of strength to it, but it does not feel remotely austere. This is floral drama with a leather-lined, resinous, slightly feral undercurrent. It has the atmosphere of a garden after a storm, when everything smells wetter, greener, hotter and more alive. Wear it when you want perfume to feel like a form of armour, a flourish of theatricality, and a reminder to take up rather more space.

Notes: Eucalyptus, Lapsang Souchong tea, saffron, thyme, honeysuckle, wisteria, jasmine, Lady Emma Hamilton rose, citrus notes, orris, ambrette, leather, fumed woods, vetiver.

Huntsman x Truefitt & Hill Cologne

The idea here is understated luxury, and it does that most convincingly by avoiding the kind of brash, traditional barbershop clichés one might expect. The opening has a bright, aromatic polish from bergamot, lemon, cardamom, pink pepper, saffron and elemi, feeling brisk but never sharp. Then the rose and violet arrive, adding soft floral refinement, while tobacco absolute gives the heart a gentle smokiness and richness.

Vanilla pod, guaiac wood, tonka bean and cedarwood create a warm, smooth finish that gives this more depth than a conventional cologne. It is elegant without being fussy, and classic without smelling as though it has been preserved behind glass. The overall impression is of someone beautifully dressed, completely at ease and not remotely interested in making a fuss about it.

Notes:

Top: Bergamot, cardamom, pink pepper, saffron, lemon, elemi

Heart: Damask rose, tobacco absolute, violet, petitgrain

Base: Vanilla pod, guaiac wood, tonka bean, cedarwood

Britney Spears Goddess Fantasy

If fragrance is sometimes about serious artistry, it can also be about joy, memory, confidence and indulging the part of oneself that would like to feel a little more fabulous. This goes wholeheartedly into that mood. Golden mango, mandarin and bergamot bring juicy, sunlit sweetness, while jasmine absolute, Turkish rose and orange blossom give the heart a lush, glamorous floral bloom.

The dry-down is where the Fantasy family resemblance really comes through. Benzoin, vanilla buttercream and gilded musk create a warm, creamy sweetness that feels designed for unapologetic pleasure. It is bright, pretty and noticeably gourmand, but the citrus opening stops it becoming too dense. Think glossy lips, warm skin, golden light and the sheer morale boost of deciding that one is, in fact, the main character.

Notes:

Top: Golden mango, mandarin, bergamot

Heart: Jasmine absolute, Turkish rose, orange blossom

Base: Warm benzoin, vanilla buttercream, gilded musk

Joonbyrd Mood Jellies

These portable water-based solid fragrances are intended as little mood rituals, with each jelly pairing a different scent profile with Bacillus ferment and neuroscience-led wellbeing claims. It is always worth holding such claims lightly, because scent is personal and context-dependent. Yet there is something rather charming about matching fragrance to a desired state of mind, particularly when the format is so playful and easy to carry around.

Bliss

Apple gives this a crisp, cheerful lift, jasmine brings a soft floral bloom, and woods with labdanum provide a mellow, gently resinous warmth. It sounds like the most easy-going of the trio, designed for a comforting, sunny sort of uplift.

Notes: Apple, jasmine, woods, labdanum.

Confidence

Peach and saffron make for a warm, radiant opening, while oak moss and ambroxan lend dry, musky structure. This has the most polished, skin-scent-like profile of the three, with enough fruitiness to feel friendly but enough moss and woody amber character to provide presence.

Notes: Peach, saffron, oak moss, ambroxan.

Peace

Violet and orris create a soft, powdery hush, while vetiver and cedarwood add rooty calm. Cacao brings a subtle darkness and comfort, making this the most introspective choice. It feels made for the end of a busy day, when one wants a small personal pause rather than a big perfume performance.

Notes: Violet, vetiver, cacao, cedarwood, orris.

Also mentioned: Buy the just-published third print issue of On The Scent magazine here!

https://www.onthescentmedia.com/shop

And read the news and blog here:

https://www.onthescentmedia.com/news

What does a fragrance feel like? This week, Suzy Nightingale and Nicola Bonn are

following their noses into the wonderfully tactile world of perfumery, where a scent

can suggest velvet brushing the skin, the smooth swish of nylon, or the crumbly

warmth of freshly sliced cake. There’s oudh as soft as autumnal sun-warmed suede,

a mineral hush reminiscent of earth after rain, and an aromatic breeze that arrives

wind-whipped and bracing before settling into comfort.

These perfumes invite you to think beyond notes alone. Some wrap around you;

others seem to lift you into cool, open air or draw you into the glow of a city after

dark. Join Suzy and Nicola for an episode devoted to sumptuous scents you can

almost reach out and touch...

The fragrances discussed in this episode are:

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Velvet Mood Extrait

Velvet warmed by desert sun is the irresistible idea here. Peach skin, delicate suede

and deep oud wood unfold in a slow, enveloping caress – soft, sensuous and richly

textured, with a sillage that seems to ripple across dunes beneath a starry sky.

D.S. & Durga Ain’t That Sweet?

The blissful comfort of a freshly sliced cake, with no apology for its sweetness.

Cinnamon lends a spicy dusting, fresh floral lily keeps things lifted, and creamy

vanilla melts into the skin, leaving a decadent trail that lingers like the last delicious

crumb.

Pigmentarium Aereo

Airy yet grounding, Aereo feels like finding a quiet moment after rain. Soft, mineral

cashmeran suggests warm soil, pink pepper brings a flicker of clarity, and soothing

myrrh anchors it all in a clean, contemplative stillness.

Aesop Unforeseen Aer

Wind-whipped and refreshing at first, this aromatic fougère brings rugged, mineral

heights to mind. Geranium, lavandin and rosemary create its cool rush of air, while

nutmeg lends a textured warmth as the scent settles into comfort.

Prada Olfactories Nylon Noir

Prada’s iconic nylon becomes something you can almost feel against your skin.

Luminous jasmine gives way to a clean, enveloping nylon accord, before musk

emerges in the dry-down, leaving a sleek, softly polished trail.

Prada Olfactories Troubled Midnight

A city after dark, where hot pavement meets cold air and light flares against

shadow. Smoky incense and patchouli bring depth to this warm amber-musk, while

a date accord adds a softly fruity glow – satin darkness in perfume form.

Suzy & Nicola are back for part two of their Pitti Fragranze roundup, continuing their deep-dive into the perfume launches, houses and ideas that made this year’s Florence fair feel so full of possibility.

Having attended Pitti Fragranze for thirteen years, Suzy felt this was one of the most exciting editions yet. Alongside the return of classical perfume structures reinterpreted for contemporary tastes, she noticed a growing confidence in brands drawing upon personal heritage, local materials, food culture, landscape, ritual and memory. In this episode, the pair explore some of the fragrances that most vividly expressed those stories.

From a Chinese-French house capturing the transient scent of sun-dried osmanthus, to Korean brands evoking fire-charred ingredients, graceful calligraphy and fine-dining balances of flavour, this episode travels widely through fragrance’s newest creative terrain. There is also a decadent, night-time gourmand journey through Bandra in Mumbai; a woody incense scent from Reserve en Afrique; and two beautifully emotional creations from Italian poet-perfumer Meo Fusciuni.

Listen for a perfume that smells of roasted chestnuts, fermented tea and Korean seaweed crisp; a vivid, herbal peach; a “new century” Parma violet growing in a cold spring garden; and a cocoa-rich love story that charts the bitterness and sweetness of heartbreak…

https://fragranze.pittimmagine.com/en/events-calendar

Reserve en Afrique – Woodoo

Reserve en Afrique’s Woodoo is a woody, resinous composition built around the warm, meditative pull of incense, balsams and dry woods.

It opens with ginger and olibanum, giving the fragrance both brightness and a slightly peppery, ceremonial character. Labdanum, iris and white flowers arrive at the heart, adding a soft, ambery texture: floral, but shadowed by resin and a certain velvety darkness. The base of musk, benzoin, cedar, tonka bean and cypriol brings a long-lasting warmth, with dry woods, sweet balsams and a gently smoky earthiness.

The name suggests ritual, mystery and a connection to wood, smoke and spirituality, and the composition seems to play with all those ideas. This is not necessarily a loud fragrance, but one that gradually develops its presence on skin: incense-lit, softly floral, smooth with tonka, and grounded by a woody, mineral base.

Reserve en Afrique draws inspiration from African landscapes, stories and olfactory traditions, translating them into contemporary fine fragrance. Woodoo feels like a particularly atmospheric example of that approach: a scent that uses familiar perfume materials, but lets them tell a more transportive story.

Cent.PM – eau de pensée

Eau de pensée, the debut fragrance from Chinese-French house Cent.PM, begins with an intensely personal memory: founder Haoyuan recalling the childhood ritual of sun-drying osmanthus blossoms in a field.

Rather than trying to make a literal flower portrait, Cent.PM treats the memory as something unstable and shifting. The perfume is intended to capture that instant when an old recollection suddenly brightens into focus, only to blur again as past and present overlap. The opening is vibrant and light-filled, with notes including neroli, pink pepper and mandarin lending a sparkling, green-citrus lift. From there, the fragrance becomes more veiled and contemplative, eventually settling into a warm, close-to-the-skin afterglow.

Osmanthus can be a fascinating material in perfume: floral, but also capable of suggesting apricot, tea, suede and a certain honeyed, almost leathery softness. Here, its role appears to be as much emotional as olfactory, carrying the atmosphere of childhood, sunshine, landscape and passing time.

Cent.PM approaches fragrance as a meeting point between cultures, materials and memory. Its name and first release suggest an interest in the fleeting, in-between time of late afternoon: a moment for reflection, imagination and sensory recollection.

Sisology – Être toi

Korean house Sisology’s Être toi is a tender, uplifting fragrance built around the idea that being fully oneself is its own kind of beauty.

The scent opens with freesia and peach, combining clean floral freshness with soft, gently juicy fruit. Rose sits at the heart, bringing a familiar, romantic bloom, but the fragrance’s real appeal lies in the ease of its overall structure. Patchouli, woods and amber provide a warm, lightly earthy base that gives the composition depth without overwhelming its airiness.

Sisology describes Être toi as a perfume for the easy laugh, the hopeful heart and the comfort of sincerity. It is imagined as sunlight through lace curtains: bright but soft, clean but intimate. That makes it sound less like a dramatic statement fragrance and more like a gentle confidence-builder, the kind of scent that feels naturally part of the wearer rather than something imposed upon them.

The brand is based in Seoul and works across fragrance and sensorial beauty. Its style is rooted in the expressive, emotional side of scent, but presented in a modern, approachable way. Être toi is a quietly optimistic introduction to that world.

Insenf – Charred Wood

Founded in Seoul in 2025, Insenf is a niche perfume house that combines traditional Korean craftsmanship with modern scent science. Its work takes everyday cultural references such as fashion, food and lifestyle, then interprets them through fragrance in unusual and highly textural ways.

Charred Wood is part of the Table Collection, inspired by ingredients transformed through fire, smoke and time. In perfume terms, that means the scent has the drama of a meal cooked over open heat: black pepper freshly crushed on the table; chestnuts slowly roasting; smoke rising from salted seaweed; the mineral warmth of charcoal lingering after the flames are gone.

The opening combines black pepper, roasted chestnut and smoked sea salt. It is dry, spicy and savoury, with the chestnut adding a nutty, almost comforting contrast to the salt and smoke. The heart moves in an even more unexpected direction: fermented tea, Korean seaweed crisp, incense resin, myrrh and clove leaf. These notes suggest a rich umami character, but the resins and clove also ensure it remains recognisably perfumery rather than becoming simply gastronomic.

Charcoal, hinoki, amberwood, patchouli and vetiver provide the base. Hinoki is especially evocative here, its dry, aromatic woodiness echoing Japanese and Korean bathing and temple woods, while vetiver and patchouli add rootiness and shadow. Charred Wood sounds like a fragrance for anyone who enjoys scent at its most savoury, smoky and unconventional.

Kuoca – Wild Peach

Kuoca approaches fragrance through the lens of fine dining, treating its compositions as carefully balanced experiences in which freshness, sweetness, texture and contrast all matter. The Korean beauty brand is best known for making sensorial products that feel deliciously tactile, and Wild Peach takes that same appetite for pleasure into fragrance.

Wild Peach centres on the sunny, juicy character of ripe fruit, but it is not designed as a dense peach syrup. Verbena and mint bring a sparkling, aromatic greenness that makes the peach feel freshly picked and still cool from the morning air. Peach blossom adds a lighter floral aspect, while ho wood lends a smooth, softly woody finish.

The brand describes Wild Peach through the image of freshly squeezed peaches from Provence, with aromatic herbs giving a more sophisticated edge to the fruit. This sounds like a peach scent for those who usually find fruit fragrances too candied or obvious: bright, translucent and almost thirst-quenching rather than sticky.

It is also a useful example of one of the wider trends Suzy noticed at Pitti: perfume houses taking familiar notes and shifting expectations around them. Peach here becomes less about confectionery and more about the contrast between ripe flesh, green leaves, fresh herbs and pale wood.

Salon de Nevaeh – Choseo

Korean house Salon de Nevaeh was impossible to overlook at Pitti, not least because of its exquisite bottle design. The flacons are ceramic and inset with mother-of-pearl, giving them the presence of miniature objects of craft rather than simply containers for perfume.

Inside, the fragrances draw upon Korean aesthetic and cultural references. Choseo is inspired by “Grass Script”, a flowing form of cursive calligraphy in which brushstrokes can appear dynamic, spontaneous and unruly, while still carrying great poise and control.

That movement is reflected in the perfume’s green composition. Dried herbs, green leaves, lime and mandarin give the opening an angular, bright and almost brush-like energy. Spearmint, geranium and muguet create a cooler, softer heart, while pine needle, galbanum, rosewood and musk provide a base that is leafy, resinous and quietly woody.

The brand describes the fragrance as sharp and unruly green up close, but gentler and pale green from a distance. That is a beautiful way of describing the evolution of a green scent: the vivid snap of crushed stems and herbs gradually becoming more hazy, calm and atmospheric on skin. Salon de Nevaeh is described as Korea’s first niche perfume house and translates traditional Korean culture into contemporary fragrance.

Sasva – Forbidden Words Bombay Gourmand

Sasva is a contemporary Indian perfume house that refuses easy ideas of heritage or nostalgia. Rooted in India but created for a global, modern audience, the brand looks to poetry, ritual, cinema, craftsmanship, street life and contemporary culture to form what it calls a new olfactory language.

Forbidden Words Bombay Gourmand takes the original Forbidden Words fragrance into the pulsating night-time atmosphere of Bandra, Mumbai. It imagines the warm, smoky air of bars and late-night streets, where desire, ambition, indulgence and possibility mingle with the scents of cocktails and boozy desserts.

The fragrance is by Luca Maffei, and its core is the contrast between oud, salted caramel and vanilla. Sweet orange and rose introduce a nod to Indian sweets, while patchouli, davana and labdanum help give the composition its darker, more aromatic structure. The salted caramel adds a modern gourmand temptation, but the oud and resins are there to ensure depth, shadow and texture.

It sounds like a perfume of excess, but not necessarily heaviness. The use of orange, rose and davana can bring luminosity and lift, while patchouli and labdanum make the fragrance feel woody and smoky rather than merely sugary. It is an especially enticing choice for anyone who likes their gourmands with a little danger and a lot of atmosphere.

Meo Fusciuni – Amara Mia

Meo Fusciuni is the Italian independent house created by perfumer Giuseppe Imprezzabile. The brand is known for its deeply personal approach to scent, using fragrance as a poetic medium for memory, landscape, love, loss and the sensations that remain after an experience has passed.

Amara Mia is a cocoa-centred fragrance that explores the bitter and sweet sensations of a relationship coming to an end. Rather than simply making cocoa smell delicious, it uses it as an emotional material: comforting, sensual, nostalgic and, ultimately, a little painful.

The opening combines cocoa with raspberry and candied orange, creating a warm, fruit-bright impression that could suggest the first sweetness of love or the urge to seek comfort after heartbreak. Iris then brings a powdery, elegant softness, while sandalwood and tonka bean create creaminess and warmth. The dry-down is intended to hold both bitterness and serenity: an acknowledgement that love can end, change and still leave something precious behind.

This is an enveloping fragrance, but it has an emotional seriousness beneath the gourmand appeal. It is ideal for anyone drawn to cocoa scents that feel more intimate and melancholic than edible: less chocolate box, more a late-night memory held close to the skin. Meo Fusciuni describes its perfume-making as a language of sensing, memory and emotion.

Meo Fusciuni – Viole Nere

With Viole Nere, Meo Fusciuni reinterprets the iconic Parma violet in a way that retains its powdery charm but roots it firmly in earth, weather and emotional complexity.

Violet can so easily become overly sweet, cosmetic or nostalgic in perfume. Here, it is pictured in a garden in the early days of March, when the soil is still cold and damp from winter, but the first signs of spring are beginning to appear. Cassis provides an opening sparkle that feels both fruity and green. Violet, iris and floral accords offer their tender, powdery and elegant facets, while vetiver, patchouli and incense pull the scent downward towards soil, roots, resin and shadow.

The result is not a naïve floral, but a violet with history and gravity. It has the soft focus and familiar charm of an old-fashioned Parma violet, while feeling more textural, darker and more contemporary. The brand describes it as “a Violetta from the 1920s but of the new century”, which perfectly captures that meeting of vintage romance and modern perfumery.

Viole Nere won the 2024 Accademia del Profumo Award for Best Artistic Perfume by an Independent Brand. It is a fitting accolade for a fragrance that takes a beloved, often underestimated note and gives it complexity, atmosphere and an unforgettable sense of place.

Taken together, these two Pitti Fragranze episodes reveal a perfume world that feels newly confident in the quieter powers of beauty. There were, of course, striking ideas and vividly imaginative stories at every turn – shipwrecked tobacco, the rare botanicals of Mount Olympus, sun-dried osmanthus, fire-charred Korean ingredients and Mumbai after dark – but what stayed with Suzy most was the sense of refinement running through so many of the fragrances.

These scents weren’t about loudness and longevity for their own sake. Instead, perfumers seemed increasingly interested in classical forms, traditional materials and recognisable olfactory families, then finding new ways to make them feel alive on skin. Iris appeared again and again, in textures ranging from buttery and cosmetic to rooty, cool and leathery. Rose felt more nuanced than merely romantic, paired with tea, pepper, tobacco, dark woods or amber. Leather returned in supple, smoky and suede-like forms, while tobacco was made strange and compelling through salt, sunlight, water, fruit, smoke and resin.

Amber and fougère also felt ripe for rediscovery. Rather than simply recreating the past, these fragrances used familiar structures as a starting point, playing with aldehydes, shaving soap, lavender, oakmoss, balsams and musks to create perfumes that nodded to vintage elegance while still feeling utterly wearable now. They were beautifully rounded compositions – full of character, but balanced; rich in material, but never overworked.

Food remained an important source of inspiration, too, but often with greater complexity than straightforward sweetness. There were Nordic buns, salted caramel, smoked sea salt, roasted chestnut, fermented tea, seaweed crisp, cocoa, peach and boozy desserts. The most compelling examples did not smell like novelties. They used flavour, texture, heat, smoke and memory as tools of perfumery, bringing savoury, bitter, mineral, herbal or resinous facets into the picture. A fragrance might begin with a food reference, but develop into something much more layered and emotionally resonant.

The emotive rendering of scent memories was perhaps the common thread connecting everything. Whether recalling a childhood field of osmanthus drying in the sun, the first violets in damp March earth, a beloved cabin bag, a mythological passage through darkness, a late night in Bandra, or the scent of warm peach and fresh herbs, these perfumes made distant places and private experiences feel immediately attainable. One spray, and a landscape, meal, garden, journey or moment of intimacy could be summoned again.

Even the bottles reflected this renewed appreciation for craft and beauty. Ceramic flacons with mother-of-pearl inlay, considered glasswork and objects designed to be treasured suggested that perfume is increasingly being presented not simply as a product, but as a complete artistic experience.

Ultimately, the most exciting message from Pitti Fragranze was that a perfume does not need to shout in order to make an impression. It can be poetic, nuanced and exquisitely composed. It can be softly spoken but emotionally enormous. And when traditional materials are handled with imagination, sensitivity and a real sense of story, they can still surprise us completely… And hurrah for that!

If you’ve ever wondered what goes on in a fragrance trade fair, get ready for all the news as Suzy reviews this year’s Pitti Fragranze in Florence. There are some some thrilling new launches and brands to get excited by, and she reveals some of the trends we can expect to see filtering their way through to the wider fragrance world over the coming months.

In fact, firstly a storm stopped play as we arrived in Florence, with Suzy’s plane stranded on the runway for three hours as lightning struck. Luckily the rest of the trip was exciting for all the right reasons!

Suzy has been attending the Pitti Fragranze trade fair for thirteen years, and genuinely felt this was one of the best ever years. The overall vibe seemed to be a return to beauty - classical perfumery elements woven in new and intriguing ways, and with greater cultural diversity from brands showcasing their heritage and aromas they grew up with. We’ll be focussing more in this aspect - as well as talking about the trends Suzy saw emerging this year - in next week’s episode. But until then, enjoy this whistle-stop rundown of some of Suzy’s highlights of the show this year…

Suzy’s top picks of the show (well SOME of them - there were a lot! We’ll have to cover some more in future episodes and on our Patreon page).

Beaufort London Sunken Tobacco

Imagine an ancient, lead-lined wooden box of tobacco—lost in a shipwreck and submerged beneath the sea. Centuries later, the wreck re-emerges and its precious cargo is rediscovered. Barnacled and salt-encrusted, the lid is levered off - within, tobacco lies preserved in shadow and silt.

Exposed at last to the sun, the furled leaves begin to bloom: warm, dark, faintly honeyed. Salt crystals glitter on wave-lapped rocks as the tobacco is laid out upon sun-bleached driftwood, its leathery richness threaded with mineral air, smoke, tar and sea-spray.

A buried treasure, reclaimed from the deep - not pristine, but made stranger and more compelling by its long immersion. Sunken Tobacco is the scent of faded maps and flooded holds - of a sailor’s hoard brought blinking into daylight, still carrying the ocean in its grain.

Four new Olfiction Lab Editions (coming soon! Expected launch on their website by end of November)

BALSAM

Neo-vintage amber

Aldehydes, Apple, Bergamot

Jasmine, Ylang Ylang, Muguet

Peru Balsam, Labdanum, Vanilla absolute, Fir Balsam, Benzoin, White Musks, Oakmoss

SUAVE

Neo-vintage fougere

Nutmeg, Shaving soap, Cedar Leaf, Coffee CO2

Lavender absolute, Lavender oil, Coffee absolute,

Geranium, Sage

Musk Accord, Suede, Animal notes, Incense resin, Rectified Cedarwood, Oakmoss

CASSISSIMO

Fruity floral

Blackcurrant Bud CO2, Blackcurrant Bud absolute, Blackberry, Red Mandarin

Champagne accord, Tuberose absolute, Rose absolute Bulgaria, Geranium Rosat

Musk, Cognac oil, Vanilla syrup, Benzoin, Patchouli, Sandalwood Australia

LASKIAISPULLA

Gourmand

Nordic Shrove Buns

Whipped Cream, Marzipan, Raspberry Jam, Raspberry

Leaf, Orris

Vanilla sugar, Vanilla absolute, Tonka absolute, Tonka infusion, Benzoin, Opoponax

OLYMRA

Founder: Born and raised in Greece, Dr. Frida Michailidou is an award-winning scientist whose work is deeply rooted in Greek botanical heritage, nature, and innovation. Previously a Lecturer and Collegium Fellow at ETH Zurich, she led the first scientific expedition to decode the rare scents of Mount Olympus using pioneering non-destructive technology. Recognised as an MIT Innovator Under 35 Europe and TEDx speaker, she is redefining perfumery through the convergence of science, sustainability, and the timeless spirit of Greece.

‘Born from the rare botanicals of Mount Olympus, OLYMRA transforms myth, memory, and wild nature into modern extrait de parfum.

Grounded in earth, inspired by the divine.’

Persephone

‘Deep. Intimate. Transformative.

OLYMRA PERSEPHONE is a fragrance of dual worlds: one of light, one of shadow. Inspired by the mythic queen who walks between both, it captures a moment of transformation: the instant spring yields to desire, and dusk begins to bloom.

The fragrance opens with bergamot, pink pepper, and cardamom; bright, spiced notes that shimmer like sunlight across stone. At its heart, a lush pairing of Damask rose, Centifolia rose, and the OLYMRA plant accord, a precise reconstruction of rare mountain flora, unfurls with velvet intensity. Beneath, a deep base of cacao, tonka bean, beeswax, grey amber, and hyrax evokes warmth, earth, and skin; the lingering traces of a myth reborn.

OLYMRA PERSEPHONE is not a fragrance of opposition, but of passage and evolution; from innocence to knowing, from surface to depth, from petal to flame. Crafted for those who carry both sunlight and shadow.

She walks between worlds. Will you follow her into the dusk?’

Kharon

‘Dark. Sensual. Elemental.

OLYMRA KHARON is a fragrance shaped by myth and memory. Inspired by Kharon, the ferryman of Hades, silent, unwavering, eternal, it is an olfactory passage through the darker recesses of the soul.

The scent opens with sharp lemon, luminous neroli, and the spark of black pepper, evoking the moment just before surrender. At its heart, the complexity deepens: Damask rose and tobacco entwine with the OLYMRA Accord, a precise reconstruction of wild flora from Mount Olympus. In the base, smoked wood, beeswax, vetiver, sandalwood, and a bold note of hyrax create a dry, tactile finish; intimate yet vast, like breath inside stone.

OLYMRA KHARON is not designed to please. It is designed to confront. To carry. To remain. A fragrance for those drawn not to light, but to truth; wherever it may lead.

The river lays ahead... Are you ready to cross?’

Laboratorio Olfattivo Bagage à main

(translates as hand luggage in British English)

‘Leather and Nutmeg; middle notes are Vetiver and Peru Balsam; base notes are Patchouli, Amber, Tonka Bean and Ambronova ™’

Laboratorio Olfattivo Rose Me Twice

(By Jean-Claude Ellena)

‘With over 40,000 varieties, the rose is the flower whose fragrance has been most extensively explored by perfumers — an entire universe in which one can easily lose oneself among its infinite nuances. This exploration took a decisive turn in 1867, when the breeder Jean-Baptiste Guillot created ‘La France’, the first hybrid tea rose.

With this innovation, Guillot introduced not merely a new flower, but an olfactory signature that would shape perfumery forever. Today, whenever I perceive a tea note within a rose, I immediately recognize its lineage from that historic hybridization. The secret of this aroma lies in a specific molecule: ionone — used to recreate the scent of violet, but also a key component in the olfactory impression of tea.’

Heeley Chiris

Historic French house revered and revived by James Heeley in this INCREDIBLE leather / iris / Chypre fragrance.

‘The fragrance house of Antoine Chiris dates back to 1768 and is considered to be the first and perhaps the greatest of the enterprises that made a business of harvesting natural materials and turning them into the raw materials of perfumery and, at times, creating the perfumes themselves.

Antoine de Chiris was born into a wealthy family of Italian origin. In Grasse he began buying up fields which produced flowers which were converted into perfumery materials. Chiris held early patents on a steam distillation process capable of producing significant amounts of high quality oil at an economic cost. This technology helped made Grasse the international focus of perfumery for over a century and a half.’

History from https://www.perfumeprojects.com/museum/marketers/Chiris.shtml

The fragrance: ‘Chiris by James Heeley is an iris and leather fragrance created by James Heeley and launched in 2026. It pays tribute to Chiris, the historic perfume-materials producer founded in Grasse in 1768, and to the Iris Pallida it cultivated in Tuscany. Osmanthus, citrus and peach open the composition, followed by Iris Pallida and olibanum over a base of leather, cedar, sandalwood and amber.’

Lorenzo Villoresi Vol D’Abaris

The nose behind this fragrance is Alessandro Villoresi. The fragrance features Tobacco, Amber, Vanilla, Musk and Woody Notes.

Are you feeling the need for snuggly scents yet? Suzy and Nicola are leaning into the cosiness in this week’s episode and have been gathering together some of new launches and favourite fragrances they’ve been wearing as autumn approaches. The discussion ranges from ultra-sophisticated gourmands encompassing chocolate and lattes, to a bohemian rose, a truly fantastic new woody scent, and an American niche tobacco fragrance Suzy fell for years ago and a listener kindly sourced a sample of for her. Plus, the #listenerprescription this week is for a ‘friendship fragrance’ to link and be shared by a listener and her best friend who is moving far away...

Tom Ford Tobacco Chocolat

By Daniela Andrier

‘TOM FORD has long been drawn to the sensual, masculine heat of tobacco – and now, the perfumer adds another iteration to its repertoire. Tobacco Chocolat is an eau de parfum founded upon the brand’s exclusive cocoa smoke accord, a note that fuses the rich, intoxicating quality of cocoa with the grounding earthiness of tobacco. Alongside this powerful core are a host of complimentary notes, from bright orange essence to balsam and patchouli, coming together to make a fragrance set to capture attention.

Top Notes: cocoa smoke co-distillation, Orange Essence

Middle Notes: peru balsam, chocolat noir grand cru delight

Base Notes: patchouli cœur Indonesia, Ambrofix.’

NEST New York Cardamom Latte

‘Like cashmere on bare skin, this spicy gourmand eau de parfum is endlessly wearable. The gentle heat of cardamom drifts through jasmine-laced air steeped in the creamy comfort of coconut milk.

Cardamom Latte unfolds like the perfect pour—layered and immersive. Heat blooms into softness. Spice melts into cream. Steam diffuses into air. Transforming your atmosphere with warmth you can feel. An enveloping fragrance that surrounds before it settles. Because comfort isn’t static. It’s fluid.’

Acqua di Parma Signatures of the Sun Cedar Virtuoso (& body cream)

‘Cedro Virtuoso celebrates the sensorial warmth of creation—the moment when an idea begins to take shape and inner confidence turns sensibility into emotion. Like the different stages of a creative process, the fragrance unfolds like a warm embrace, encouraging creativity to rise from within. Between vivid, vibrant notes and deeper, cocooning tones that accompany the journey from intuition to realization is the fragrance’s distinctive singularity: a co-infusion of Virginia cedarwood and hazelnut, whose encounter shapes a creamy woody signature.’

Miller Harris Scherzo Extrait

‘Developed at 30% concentration, Scherzo Extrait captures the vibrant spirit of the original Eau de Parfum while unveiling a deeper, more intoxicating signature. Bright, luminous sweetness meets newfound richness and warmth, allowing the fragrance to bloom with a more immersive intensity for lasting presence.

The fragrance opens with the familiar rush of tangerine and davana, radiating vibrant fruity luminosity. At its heart, delicate peony blooms abundantly alongside crisp pittosporum, while a new dimension begins to emerge: a more sumptuous and velvety rose, enrobed in golden honey and entwined with creamy vanilla for a richer sensuality, its floral radiance enhanced by threads of incense to bring light and vibration. Together, they introduce a magnetic tension, guiding the fragrance towards more mysterious territory.

At the base, shimmering oudh unfolds with greater texture, amplified by intensified patchouli and moss. The introduction of smooth amber woods brings warmth and refinement, creating a striking counterpoint to the fragrance's signature sweetness. As these richer notes emerge, they reveal new facets of its character.

The result is a fragrance which is radiant yet mysterious, vibrant yet profound, with a more enduring and enveloping trail.’

HEAD NOTES:

Tangerine*, Davana* (herb with a fruity, sweet, tea like smell, member of the Artemisia family.)

HEART NOTES:

Rose Nectar Accord, Peony, Olibanum* (Frankincense), Pittosporum.

LASTING IMPRESSIONS:

Patchouli*, Vanilla, Oudh, Moss, Amber Woods, Sweet Note.

Sonoma Scents Tabac Aurea

‘Tabac Aurea has an enticing golden amber drydown and a pipe tobacco note that is enjoyed by women as well as men. It’s smooth and softly gourmand, with notes of amber, woods, spices, tobacco, leather, tonka, labdanum, patchouli, and vanilla. The amber accord combines dry earthy notes with sweet elements and subtle fruity touches to create an addictive, beautiful, golden aura. One of our top three best-selling scents.’

Ormonde Jayne Sybarite

Nicola has been finding great comfort and energy in this, lately. It’s the only store-exclusive founder and creative director Linda Pilkington has allowed for her own Royal Arcade boutique, this was so worth the wait. A perfect melange of creamy hazelnut and orris butter, it’s the Timur pepper and the effervescently spiced sparkle it adds to the composition that ties it all together. Utterly unique, and beautifully balanced, it’s the finer things in life lovingly bottled. Those craving outside London: call or email them for information.

Perfume Prescription:

Luci Tither:

‘Hi lovely ladies, you very kindly gave me a perfume prescription for a magical trip to Porto last year (excellent recommendation of Claus Porto). And I wondered if you'd indulge a second prescription if I may. I loved the notion of a friendship fragrance mentioned in a recent episode. It really struck a chord with me as my best friend is very sadly moving to Canada from the UK early next year and although I'm very happy for her, I'm going to miss her immensely. I wondered if it would be at all possible to help us find a fragrance that we could both wear whenever we meet, and will remind us of each other when we're apart.

She loves a gourmand like Bianco Latte, Seven Virtues Vanilla Amber or skin scents like Not A Perfume and Phlur Not Your Baby. For me, I love clean, powdery skin scents (like Molecule Iris, Prada Infusion), and warm sandalwood/ambery scents (think Sana Jardin Sandalwood Temple, BDK Vanilla Leather). We also both love a rogue option like Dries Van Noten Fleur de Mal, BDK Rouge Smoking Jacket and Amouage Guidance.

Apologies for the long message - I hope you can suggest something that we'd both love and can make being thousands of miles apart that bit easier. Thank you in advance - your podcast is very much my happy place on my commute to work. Xx’

Suzy thinks it’s definitely worth trying a sample of Estée Lauder Glimmer (and the Acqua di Parma Cedro Virtuoso), and also suggests:

Molton Brown Milk Musk Eau de Toilette

Milk gently laps at luscious notes of pear, delicate florals and sheer white musk, while Ambroxan and cashmere add that skin-on-skin warmth. Scented contentment awaits, tender as a fluttery kiss, softly embracing rather than swaddling.

Fischersund Faux Flora No. 1

Encompassing the life cycles of plants and humans alike, this scent ‘springs from universal experiences.’ A sparkle of bergamot’s brightness is swathed by ‘mountain milk’, cool, pristine and porcelain-like, warming to salty iris’s mortal muskiness.

Eris Parfums Mothers Milk

Antoine Lee’s ‘primordial gourmand’ blends buttery orris and vanilla with hyper-realistic warm milk, subverting the soft-focus skin-swaddled kiss of comfort, as ‘good’ mother (rosily nurturing) becomes ‘bad’ (suede-like, sultry). Think fairytale mother turned Joan Crawford.

Maison Louis Marie Bois de Balincourt (You can get a mini travel set with the oil and EDP, so could purchase one to share, perhaps?)

‘Bois de Balincourt is inspired by our family home, nestled deep within an ancient forest. Along a trail we fondly called Lover’s Lane, generations wandered under towering trees, surrounded by stillness and memory. This signature scent layers creamy sandalwood and cedar with warming cinnamon and nutmeg, anchored by earthy vetiver — a romantic, comforting fragrance with effortless depth.’

Olfactive O Skin

Nicola had the brilliant idea of using this scent as your shared ‘base’ layer, which you can wear alone or layer with any other perfume you have. That way, she thought you’d always be grounded in the same scent. Suzy then had the idea if you both ordered bottles, you could use then personalise them – each full-size bottle of Skin extrait comes with a fingerprint ink pad and blank label for this purpose!

Olivia, the founder, describes Skin as: ‘...for everyone, universal yet deeply personal. The delicate balance of notes blends with your skin chemistry to create the absolute essence of you – unmistakable and compelling. It can be applied on its own or worn in combination with any of the other personality scents to magnify and enhance your unique scent. I am the alchemist, the musician, the storyteller. I am confident in my own skin and never need to pretend. I confound expectations and you’ll keep coming back to me, intrigued and charmed. I am sun-warmed skin on the beach, tousled hair, the cool of cotton sheets at the end of the day.’

This week Suzy & Nicola are pondering the resurgence of iris - one of the most traditional (and costly) notes in perfumery made modern by exploring it in surprising ways. From one of the all-time classic iris perfumes launching a new version after 114 years, to another historic house who’s just launched a dashingly debonair iris scent; and a brilliantly affordable iris from a high street shop that’s one of our star buys year… There’s a lot to love!

After discussing what else we’ve fallen for lately, and Suzy’s perfume picks from an Australian brand’s stunning new East End boutique; we asked Scott (@blublazer guy) to answer a listener’s question about fragrances to wear while visiting Edinburgh.

On the show:

Guerlain L’Heure Bleu (new)

Perfumer Delphine Jelk says she didn’t try ‘to modernise the original L’Heure Bleue from 1912, nor to revisit it, but to pay tribute to a masterpiece and to translate that emotion into the present through a new palette of ingredients.’ A ‘homemade iris tincture created exclusively for this perfume’ is woven into a fresher-feeling ‘ozonic blue sky accord to shiver’, together with ‘the softness of orange blossom’, on a base of vanilla, woods and musk, creating what Jelk calls ‘airy, powdery sensuality’.

Creed Iris Debonair

‘Unlock Iris Debonair, an addictive fougère floral capturing the allure of an aesthete's domain, where every room reveals an intentional art of living. Opening with a luminous stroke of bergamot co-infused with absinthe leaves, at the heart, crisp English lavender unfolds with cool, aromatic clarity. French iris pallida, suffused in pale blue, is magnetic and among perfumery's most precious materials.

Head Notes

Bergamot & Absinthe, Pink Pepper, Cardamom

Heart Notes

English Lavender, Violet Leaf, Fig Pulp Accord

Base Notes

French Iris Pallida, Ambrette, Amberwood’

Boots Last Note Echoes of You

50ml fragrance priced at £12.99 from the debut "Last Note" collection. It features a sparkling pink pepper top note, a middle core of velvety iris and cashmere musk, and a warm amber base.

Top: Pink pepper

Heart: Iris, cashmere musk

Base: Warm amber

Merchant of Venice Renaissance

‘By Calice Becker, this floral-leathery fragrance is inspired by Renaissance ideals of balance and harmony, housed in a golden-accented Murano glass bottle.

Top Notes: Galbanum, Orange Blossom Absolute, Saffron

Heart Notes: Iris, Indonesian Patchouli, Leather, Akigalawood

Base Notes: Ambrofix™, Vanilla, Frankincense (Incense), Musk.’

Jo Malone London Rose & Oud Leather Cologne Intense (Harrods)

‘The captivating fragrance is a tribute to the prevailing beauty of the flower and is brought to life by additional notes of patchouli and amber.

Top Notes: oud, leather

Middle Notes: damask rose

Base Notes: patchouli, amber.’

Thomas de Monaco Luisant Haze (Wild Iris)

‘Luisant Haze expands the Gold Collection of Thomas De Monaco Parfums with a fragrance that approaches sweetness in a different way.

At the heart of the composition is a reimagined tuberose. Not opulent or dense, but softened, diffused, and luminous. Sweetness appears here in a new form: airy rather than heavy, radiant rather than indulgent. Notes of fraise des bois, cotton candy, and tonka are lifted by white musks and amber facets, creating a transparent structure that stays close to the skin.’

Givenchy L’Interdit Elixir

‘L'Interdit Elixir evokes a precious talisman infused with power, created to unveil the magnetic strength within every woman.

The scent opens with the voluptuous intensity of Black Cherry, illuminated by the delicate bitterness of almond essence. It melts into L'Interdit's iconic bouquet of white flowers, where Orange Blossom, Tuberose, and Jasmine reveal an opulent, almost carnal femininity, enriched by the profound woody nuances of pure oakwood extract.

Faithful to Givenchy's art of contrast, L'Interdit Elixir balances shadow and light, sensuality and strength. At its most addictive, a warm, liqueur-like accord unfolds through the richness of Rum Absolute, Davana Essence, and Vanilla Extract, leaving behind a deeply enveloping trail. Fused with the skin, the fragrance becomes a captivating aura of confidence — a pure expression of empowered femininity.’

Giorgio Armani I WILL

‘A sensual strength forged through time, I WILL awakens tenacity with confidence and leaves an intense, unmistakable trail. Created by Nathalie Lorson and Alberto Morillas, it opens with bergamot and cardamom, develops through lavender and violet leaf, and settles into Madagascan vanilla with a woody leather accord.’

Flaner fragrances: new Australian niche fragrance boutique in East London. You can listen to a live recording of Suzy and Amanda Carr visiting their stunning shop and hearing all about the collection on an exclusive extra episode. Head to http://patreon.com/ here to sign up for an extra episode every week:

https://www.patreon.com/u84518038

Suzy’s favourites from Flaner were:

Sonic Silver

‘Inspiration: Tram tracks connecting city streets

The sun peaks through the clouds after rain, glistening off the sleek silver tracks. Urban landscapes echo past, providing a window into the irreverent spirit of an eclectic city with backdrop of thunderous rhythm of metal. Imbuing the artistic spirit found in the canvas of urban laneways, this fragrance captures the raw, urban edge of a city's atmosphere to create something truly unique.

Notes:

Top: Basil, Lavender, Bergamot

Middle: Metallic, Petrichor, Cardamom

Base: Asphalt & Tar, Green Patchouli, Musk & Tonka.’

Manhattan Cherry

‘Inspiration: Speakeasies of Manhattan

A laneway door opens and down a flight of stairs a small room with leather chairs, dark woods and the faint smell of tobacco signals a forbidden and mysterious world. Dimly lit and intimate, the night invites indulgence and seduction. A sensual tryst of cherry and dark bourbon, this fragrance evokes the boldness and intoxicating allure that comes from the Manhattan cocktail, in Manhattan of course.’

Enjoy responsibly.

Notes:

Top: Maraschino cherry, Red vermouth, Orange peel

Middle: Bourbon, Ginger, Cinnamon

Base: Amber wood, Tobacco, Leather, Vanilla

Listener prescription:

Ashley Burk

‘Hello! :) I have been listening to your podcast for years and years! I feel like you both have been traveling with me around the world because you have now helped me find fragrances to wear in Greece, Ireland, and Japan! This October I got myself a ticket to go to Edinburgh, Scotland and was wondering if you could recommend me some perfume to wear while I go for a week. I will be doing the Harry Potter steam train day trip one of the days! If you know of any perfume stores I should see in Edinburgh please let me know as well. I am so excited to be there during October. Thank you both! :)’

Who better to turn to than our friend Scott @blublazerguy (who happens to live in Edinburgh) and suggested:

Kingdom Scotland Portal

‘Ancient forest. Still air. The scent of Scotland before the world arrived.

A green woody chypre eau de parfum that opens on crushed heather and wild herbs, deepens into cool fern and forest moss, and settles into a long, intimate base of oakmoss, vetiver, and peat-warmed cedar.’

Jorum Studio Boswelia Scotia

‘Royal Green Hojari Frankincense, Pink Pepper, Saffron, Cistus, Sandalwood Mysore, Cypriol, Patchouli, Black Hemlock, Fir Balsam, Olibanum Absolute.

A golden veil of gossamer-light. Royal Green Hojari Frankincense soothed by fir balsam and black hemlock. Boswellia Scotia is incense reimagined; translucent, atmospheric and quietly magnetic.’

ANFORH Aire

‘Crisp citrus, cool ozonic air, and dry vetiver - Aire is clarity bottled. Fresh, textured, and quietly confident.

Fresh, zesty, and mineral. Green mandarin and Calabrian bergamot open with a burst of citrus brightness before giving way to the cool lift of ozonic air and the dry, earthy depth of vetiver. A fragrance that moves with energy and purpose, settling into a steady, confident calm.

From the Scots word "aire" (a gravel-shored coastal edge where land meets sea), Aire captures the sensation of standing on a coastal edge, breathing in invigorating, mineral air as light breaks across the water. It’s bright, citrus-driven, and full of energy - the feeling of movement and clarity. Inspired by the Scottish coastline, it balances natural vibrancy with grounded calm.’

Suzy suggests visiting Jorum Studio’s shop (incredible Scottish fragrance brand)

Jorum Edinburgh

12 St. Stephen Street, EH3 5AL

https://jorumstudio.com/

& the new niche fragrance boutique Scent-ed in Glasgow:

https://www.scent-ed.com/

In this episode we’re partnering with Estée Lauder for the first in a new series: Fragrant Focus. This is where we take our time exploring a single scent - smelling it together and sharing our thoughts. And we have an exciting GIVEAWAY for you to enter! Listen and read on to find out how to enter, hear our reviews of Glimmer, and the beautiful inspiration behind its launch.

We have a plethora of exciting new launches to tell you about, from niche names, designer and heritage houses alike. But we begin with an emotional journey to capture the scent of something very special to Suzy…

MANE Dad’s Rose

Suzy got very emotional about this olfactory delivery, as MANE - a fragrance creation house in the U.K. who’ve made scents for some of the biggest brands out there - managed to capture the scent of a rise her father planted for her when she was a little girl. One of MANE’s standout innovations is their ‘Jungle Essence™’ technology. In some ways similar to ‘headspace’ captures of previously unusable materials in perfumery, these essences are utterly unique and exclusive to MANE. And to see it in action is just MIND BLOWING!

Jungle Essence™ is a patented, eco-friendly scent and flavor extraction technology created by the fragrance house MANE. It uses supercritical carbon dioxide (CO₂) to capture the exact, true-to-life aroma of a raw material—whether it is a spice used in men's cologne, a flower, or wood—without using harsh chemical solvents or high heat. You can hear all about the process in a special Patron only extra episode on http://patreon.com/ (search for ‘On the Scent podcast’ to find us)

Penhaligon’s The Manoeuvres of The Baroness

Suzy and Nicola got very excited about this latest character in the Portraits collection (and it’s an orange blossom - one of the notes they regularly swoon over!) Key notes

Orange Blossom, Chantilly, Sandalwood

‘Collector of secrets and quiet conspiracies, the Baroness has always ruled from the shadows. Orange blossom sparkles with influence next to Chantilly. A whispered order of sandalwood. She doesn’t outrun danger; she outsmarts it.’

Jil Sander collection

Both Suzy & Nicola were hugely impressed by the latest Jil Sander fragrances, and these were Suzy’s two favourites:

Lily

‘Caught by surprise by an enchanting perfume on a warm Florentine night.

Lilies are white, sensual flowers that primarily release their fragrance after sunset.

In Jil Sander Lily the aldehydes bring the flower's metallic, blooming facets to life, while the floral power of the CO₂ extracted Jasmine Sambac, the warmth of Benzoin from Vietnam, and the verticality of the upcycled Cypress structure and balance this luscious, radiant fragrance.

This new majestic Floral White Flower fragrance magnifies the ephemeral into a lasting form.’

Mahogony:

‘The supreme energy of a tropical forest captured into a scent.

For the depths of its hues where red turns to black, mahogany is one of the most fascinating trees.

Jil Sander Mahogany pays homage to this exceptional expression of nature in a fragrance that fuses upcycled Cedarwood with the profound leathery facets of Cypriol from India, the fizzy, spicy notes of CO₂ extracted Ginger, and the aldehydes.

A rich and sophisticated Woody Leathery fragrance that raises mahogany to new heights.’

Nicola was so impressed by how realistic the Jil Sander Sesame was (though admits she may not be brave enough to wear it yet), while Suzy thought it was cosy and comforting.

French Cowboy Mezcal Chocolate (available at Wild Iris)

Suzy continues to be wowed by this exciting new niche house, and cannot wait for cooler weather in which to indulge in this one.

‘Mezcal Chocolat is fueled by extraordinary raw materials. It hits like a shot of mezcal: it opens with a sparkling Lime Oil, sharpened by Olibanum from Somalia for smoky depth. To push it further, our perfumer added an ultra-rare Rhum extract (as costly as some of perfumery’s finest Iris!).

Instead of just a synthetic cacao accord, Mezcal Chocolat goes all in on Cacao Absolute: the most precious form of cocoa, used here in unprecedented amounts. Its creaminess melts into a bed of woods: Virginia Cedarwood, prized for its soft smoky creaminess, and Cypriol Oil from India, adding shadow, depth, and a dark, earthy glow.’

Byredo Future Memories

Another fascinating take on vanilla, and our hosts both adored the juicy blackcurrant note balance g the sweetness here. ‘Byredo captures the tension between now and next: an invitation to live fully, to choose deliberately, to imprint the present with intention. Held like a quiet mantra at the back of the mind, one question remains: What do you choose today, to remember tomorrow?

A scent crafted like a memory in motion.

The fragrance opens with the vivid green freshness of galbanum, illuminated by the juicy brightness of blackcurrant and a veil of aldehydes that diffuse light through the composition. At its heart, powdery iris unfolds alongside warm, resinous labdanum, creating a textured impression that settles gently onto the skin. In the base, vanilla emerges in full, enriched by Ambrofix and an intimate veil of musks lingering on the skin as a subtle trace of what remains.

Top Notes: Galbanum essence, blackcurrant accord, and fresh aldehydes for a bright, sparkling, and green start.

Heart Notes: Iris butter, labdanum resinoid, orange blossom, and white vanilla accord providing powdery floral warmth.

Base Notes: Madagascar vanilla CO2, vanilla liqueur accord, Ambrofix, and sensual musks.’

Nishane Thorns Become Roses

When a rose is velvety and gorgeous but still displays its sharpness… This is by Julien Rasquinet, and inspired by the Rumi quote "With love, thorns become roses"

‘Thorns Become Roses is a contemporary, contrast-driven rose that embodies transformation, evolving from a vivid, luminous opening into an intense floral heart, and settling into a deep, enveloping woody amber trail. Crafted as an extrait de parfum, it redefines the rose through a balance of tension and softness, offering a structured yet sensual and evolving olfactive experience.

Lychee and raspberry, luminous and vibrant, meet the metallic sharpness of saffron and cardamom, evoking the harsh brilliance of noon light on Petra’s cliffs.

At its heart, Turkish rose unfolds with dense, velvety depth, held in contrast by the green-leathery facets of violet leaf and the powdery softness of mimosa. A rose both thorned and tender, asserting its beauty through contrast.

The base settles into a mineral, enduring trail of amberwood and patchouli, softened by creamy sandalwood. Here, tension gives way to a quiet radiance, neither sweet nor austere, but balanced, tactile, and lasting.

Top Notes: lychee, raspberry, saffron

Heart Notes: rose, mimosa, blackcurrant

Base Notes: patchouli, amberwood, aetoxylon’

FRAGRANT FOCUS:

AD: Estée Lauder Glimmer

Extraordinarily, this is the first new main line fragrance for 12 years, and the first ever gourmand style fragrance for the house! But Suzy and Nicola think that unmistakable Lauder DNA shines through. Indeed, this a scent that celebrates shining - finding your own light and the things that lift you every single day.

Dominique Ropion, Anne Flipo and Jean-Marc Chaillan are the incredible perfumers.

Top Notes: raspberry, orange blossom, milk mousse and mandarin

Heart Notes: Cashmeran, macarons, vanilla and rose

Base Notes: amber, tonka bean, sandalwood, patchouli and cedarwood.

Bright, sparkling and mouthwatering. Fruity-rosy raspberry, a fresh lift of mandarin, and a soft orange flower glow.

Warmer and more enveloping. Macaron Rose Accord comes forward with its gourmand impression, wrapped in the radiant depth of Amber Embrace Accord and Shimmering Patchouli, with a smooth, skin-warmed softness.

The fragrance settles into a lingering, addictive trail, a glowing blend of Amber, Patchouli, Woods and Tonka Bean notes. Still warmed by a whisper of sweetness that stays close and feels unforgettable.

Estée Lauder says:

This is the fragrance for life’s most extraordinary moments. It’s a scent not just to be worn, but to be felt, remembered, and shared. Because when you find what makes you glimmer, it lights up everyone around you.

For the full sizes, a beautiful rectangular bottle embodies femininity and strength. Sculpted semi-circles catch and reflect each ray of light. A circular gold-tone cap adds a luminous finish.

Travel Size:

The Travel Size is a deluxe mini fragrance spray. Perfect for on the go, to gift to a friend, or to try for the first time. 10ml travel size £25

Also comes in 30ml, 50ml & 100ml

GIVEAWAY:

We have a full size bottle of Glimmer to giveaway - see the post on our Instagram to enter!

How to enter: Follow both @onthescentpodcast and @esteelauderuk on Instagram, then like and comment on the giveaway post on our Instagram account. That’s it!

Entries must be made before 8.00 pm BST on Thursday, 3 September 2026. Because of delivery restrictions we can only accept entries from U.K. residents.

Terms & Conditions: One winner will receive one full-size bottle of Estée Lauder Glimmer Eau de Parfum. The prize is non-transferable, non-refundable, and cannot be exchanged for cash or an alternative product.

Winner selection: The winner will be selected at random using a random number generator from all eligible entries received by the closing date.

Notification: The winner will be contacted by direct message via Instagram within 7 days of the closing date. If they do not respond within 48 hours, the Promoter may select another winner at random.

Delivery: The prize will be posted to a U.K. address provided by the winner. The Promoter is not responsible for prizes lost or damaged in transit.

Good luck!

We’re hanging on to summer with the fragrance launches discussed, and in what we’re wearing this week, but there is a noticeable change in the weather here in the U.K. There have even been sightings of socks, jackets, cardigans and knee-high boots on the streets! A week ago, such items were unthinkable, but now we’re almost looking forward to the seasons changing again.

ALMOST, but not quite yet. Not when there’s a plethora of new perfume discoveries to delve in to (many of which will prove incredibly versatile in cooler weather anyway, we feel). Quite apart from some exquisite new fragrant finds to welcome Nicola back from holiday with, we’ve two more of your utterly brilliant Listener Prescriptions to answer, and an exciting update from Madeline – the musician / vineyard worker / medal-winning fighter we helped find new fragrances for last week!

In this week’s episode we discuss:

Jo Malone London Sea Salt & Bergamot

‘Plunge into the exhilarating surf of the Celtic Sea. Immersed in the wild waters, every wave carries a fresh minerality. Joining a burst of bergamot, driftwood anchors this sea-salt fresh scent. Experience the untamed beauty of the British coast.

Top Note: bergamot

(Brightens with its sparkling, citrus freshness)

Heart Note: sea salt

(The crunchy nature of sea salt accord brings both texture and a sense of freshness and purity to the heart of the fragrance)

Base Note: driftwood

(Suffused with the saltiness of the sea, this accord brings a light woodiness to the fragrance)’

Jo Malone London Iris & White Musk Cologne Intense (recommend to listener in last week’s episode seeking clean / soapy iris fragrances!) Harrods

‘The Iris and White Musk Cologne Intense from Jo Malone London is a light and airy scent that’s perfect for everyday use. It marries powdery iris with creamy white musk, resulting in a distinctive aroma that’s ideal for layering with other fragrances but can also be worn alone.’

Ex Nihilo Demon Dancer (Harrods)

‘Ex Nihilo recreates the defiant freedom of dance in motion.

Inviting you to move to your own rhythm, Ex Nihilo’s Demon Dancer is a call for ‘unapologetic self-expression’. Inspired by contemporary dance performance, the fragrance ignites an inner fire through energetic fruity notes that flow with freeing freshness and grounded intensity.

Top Notes: rhubarb, bergamot, peppermint, blood orange

Heart Notes: orange blossom, blackcurrant

Base Notes: georgywood, akigalawood, ambrofix, musks, tonka bean.’

Une Nuit Nomade Sun Bleached

‘Clean Linen Accord • White Flowers • Bergamot •Ambrette Absolute

Muscat, the capital of the Sultanate of Oman, also known as the White City.

The sun drowns the immaculate walls with its rays. It is a bright light that makes eyes squint. Omanis wander the streets, elegantly wearing their dishdashas, a long white tunic decorated with a pom-pom that is delicately dipped in perfume.

'Sun Bleached' is adorned with freshness, in an accord of clean linen, white flowers and a zesty flight of citrus fruits as if biting into a piece of orange, with white musks and sandalwood rounding off its explosiveness.’

Connock London Pelago

‘A sun-drenched Mediterranean fragrance with bright citrus and aromatic herbs, evoking the warmth of golden afternoons along sunlit shores.

Top Notes: orange, bergamot, lemon, mandarin, grapefruit.

Heart Notes: rosemary, neroli, petitgrain.

Base Notes: amber, vetiver.’

Roger & Gallet Neroli Solid Perfume

‘Discover your Néroli Wellbeing Fragrant Water in a new solid format to put on the neck, the neckline and the wrists. An alcohol-free perfume merging soflty with the skin. A new way to boost and facet your trail all day long. Enriched with rose essential oil, known for its relaxing benefits, the solid fragrance is a real caress onto the skin. Its rich and unctuous texture with vegetal waxes encapsulates the olfactive notes and keep the trail longer. A small and nomad format with an addictive gesture, to bring everywhere, wherever you are.’

French Cowboy Pear Pavlova

‘Almond, Ambrette Seeds, Jasmine, Meringue, Pear, Pink Pepper, Powdery Musk, Vanilla.

Ashley Santiago is the youngest perfumer at Givaudan and the co-founder of French Cowboy. California-born with Mexican-Caribbean roots, she honed her craft in Paris, New York & Singapore: blending global flavour with French savoir-faire.’

PERFUME PRESCRIPTIONS:

Update from Madeline (the musician / vineyard worker / medal-winning fighter from last week’s Correspondence Special episode):

‘OH MY GOODNESS GRACIOUS!!

Suzy and Nicola thankyou so so sooooo much for my prescription!!

When I saw that you had dropped a new episode WITH MY NAME IN THE NOTES I screamed!!!! It's perfect perfect PERFECT beyond words.

I have already ordered a bottle of the Map Of Hearts Valour and I am currently hunting for samples of the others you both suggested!!

I CANNOT wait to let you know how I go, l am so so sooooo excited to try them all!!’

(If we don’t have time this week: NEXT WEEK’S EPISODE, another Perfume Prescription special?)

Jessi - aka @grotesquex_o

‘hi suzy and nicola,

the day that you answered my cave perfume prescription was one of the best days of my life. i was hiking around the forest on a break at the museum in san francisco where i work, squealing and reveling in our shared zeal! ill remember the feeling forever. although i havent gotten my nose on that perfect perfume you found just yet, my sister and boyfriend know exactly what to get me for Christmas…

I’m writing to you humbly with the hope of another perfume prescription. i love cold incense perfumes, and found that my favorites (andrea maack craft and CDG avignon) have a chlorine note (to my nose at least, tho unlisted) that i crave. like the way your skin and hair smell after a swim in the pool, not the smell of sunscreen or tropical fruits that so often characterizes pool culture-inspired perfumes. are there any other cold, chlorinated, incense perfumes you love?’

Suzy’s Answer:

Serge Lutens L’Eau Froide

‘By Christopher Sheldrake. The fragrance features Sea water, Pepper, Mint, Musk, Incense, Olibanum, Ginger and Vetiver.’

‘"The situation was too hot for me to handle.” or “A chill ran down my spine.” I simply applied a similar concept to an Eau. The hero of this story is a tree during the dog days of summer. If an incision is made in its trunk, "tears of glass" come out. Without air conditioning, the heat would kill it. Frankincense helps this scent preserve an icy cool." - a note from the brand.’

Bibbi Swimming Pool

‘By Jérôme Epinette. Top notes are mint, basil and Ginger; middle notes are Eucalyptus and Geranium; base notes are Blonde Woods, Grass, White Wood, Ambroxan and Light Amber.

You completely forget about time and space when you swim in the pool. The water forces you to go through all the darkest hours and brightest moments of your life. After swimming in the pool, you will be forever changed and have an intense basil-like scent stuck to your skin forever.’

Heretic Nosferatu

‘SMELLS LIKE: An encounter with an apparition in the cold, damp caves of Count Orlok's castle.’

‘In partnership with Nosferatu and Focus Features, Heretic is proud to present Nosferatu Eau de Macabre, a fragrance inspired by the iconic vampire. A chilling scent of wilting lilacs, velvety vegan ambergris and strikes of lightning that fill the air with petrichor and electricity—It's both delicate and hedonistic. Samples available.

Top Notes: lilac, ambrette

Heart Notes: petrichor, violet absolute, orris concrete, cypriol

BASE: vegan ambergris, oudh, labdanum.’

Pip:

‘Hi Suzie and Nicola. I’m looking for a perfume prescription. I’ve had a bit of a rollercoaster year, my partner and I were lucky enough to have a little boy together after IVF and it’s been a really incredible (though exhausting!) time. One of my oldest and dearest friends died a month before we had him and there’s not a day that goes by where I don’t think about her. I’m incredibly sad that we never got to share any of our boy mum moments together. She was always so positive though and down to earth, and I want to remember her with happiness, as well as have a comforting fragrance that will make me think of my little boy when he’s older and him of me. My memories of my friend when we were growing up together are scented with incense, books and the sticky floors of rock bars! I like vanilla, sandalwood and scents that have a bit of smoke. Thanks so much and thank you for keeping me company on my particularly sleep deprived days, I love listening to you both! Pip x’

Suzy’s answer:

The Perfumer’s Story Old Books by Azzi

‘Character: intelligent, eccentric, rock & roll.’

‘incense, books and the sticky floors of rock bars! I like vanilla, sandalwood and scents that have a bit of smoke.

This character is intelligent, warm – something quite turn of the century about it, a Dickensian style with a twist of rock and roll.

It whispers to you when you wear it and also to those around you by the incredible ingredients of Frankincense, Olibanum, Myrrh, and Elemi with a loyal accord of Patchouli, Amber, Vetivert and Cedar.

With an air of tenancity, this perfume is like a good book you just can’t put down.

Packaged in its own special scent storybook with bookmark.’

(Mini spray from £23)

Olfiction Lab Editions Librido

‘A torrid affair with the printed word. Evoking the glue of book bindings, fresh ink from glossy magazines, new and worn paperbacks and aged leather-bound tomes. A romanticised moment – catching eyes with an impossibly handsome librarian or bookseller.

If perfume be the food of love, spray on.

The formula explores the perfumer’s obsession with books and libraries, a result of hundreds of trials to capture the impression of paper, evolving into a well-stocked library as the ultimate book lovers’ scent.

NOTES / SCENT IMPRESSIONS

Fresh ink, new magazines, spicy accord, lemon

paper, papyrus, new books, rectified cedarwood, iris

Old paperbacks, leatherbound books, sandalwood Australia, ambergris infusion, orris, musk.’

£50 for 15ml

Byredo Bibliothèque

‘

Norfolk Natural Living Annotations Parfum

‘Time stretches in that particular way it does when you’re absorbed. The warmth builds gently. Your skin warms under the glass. The scent of books deepens: paper, leather, that faint resinous sweetness that only appears when things have been left alone long enough. Balsams and benzoin gather quietly in the background, smoothing everything out, and then oud arrives, unshowy, steady. It doesn’t darken the room. It holds it. It smells like confidence built slowly, thought layered upon thought.

By the time you look up, you feel held inside a quietly luminous world. Full of asides. Full of small, private understandings. The sort of place where nothing has to prove itself, and everything feels, somehow, meant just for you.’

Top Notes: cedarwood, bergamot, lemon essential oil,

Heart Notes: rose absolute, coriander seed,

Base Notes: oudh, balsam of Peru, benzoin resin, patchouli

We cannot tell you how much we LOVE receiving your questions and requests for

‘perfume prescriptions’ (something we’ve always specialised in at On the Scent

Podcast – it brings us such joy being able to match people to perfumes they’d

perhaps never tried or even heard of). And we get a LOT of DMs

@onthescentpodcast on Instagram, and messages on our On the Scent private

Facebook group, so here we are dedicating an episode to do a deep dive on two

fascinating fragrant conundrums...

Sometimes the prescription requests we get are to help find a ‘replacement’ for a

beloved signature scent that’s since been discontinued – to which we say, there’s

probably never going to be an exact match, but we can definitely guide you toward

trying some scents that match the vibe, the feeling that fragrance gave you when

you wore it, and the way it slotted into your life like a puzzle piece. We also get a

lot of requests for very specific scenarios, sometimes quite abstract themes or

intimate moments our listeners are seeking to scent! But when we think about

them more broadly, there’s ways of applying these scenarios (and the things the

listener needs to take from them: strength, motivation, comfort, energy...) to

aspects of our own lives.

In this correspondence special, we begin with some lovely feedback from a listener

who made a new discovery via a previous prescription suggestion, then we dive into

the two new requests, which are equally intriguing, and really showcase the kinds

of questions we get so many of and adore researching (often for hours!) to find the

perfect perfumes for.

Let’s begin!

Joanna said:

‘Dear Suzy and Nicola,

I can’t thank you enough for your amazing affordable iris prescriptions! Both sound

incredible and I will be definitely be hunting them down, especially Fragonard Belle

de Paris!

I especially want to thank you for your reviews of the new M&S perfumes. That

episode came out shortly before my trip to England from the States, and I

immediately added M&S to the itinerary! And WOW…Sheer Musk and Darkest

Vanilla are incredible! M&S perfumes are unavailable in America, so had my trip

been just a couple of weeks earlier I would have been completely out of luck, as I

would never have considered exploring M&S as a perfume haven without your

expert recommendation. I humbly beg you to do full reviews of the rest of the

Studio lineup! I feel that the interests of promoting truly exquisite super-affordable,

unique fragrances warrant such a podcast focus. Thank you for all you do for the

fragrance community!!’

Listener prescriptions:

Netta asks:

‘Hi! I recently discovered your podcast and I’m absolutely loving it. I’ve been binge

listening and enjoying every episode!!

I’ve always been obsessed with fragrance and smelling good, so it feels like I’ve

finally found my people.

I was wondering if you could recommend a perfume that’s similar to the

discontinued Armani Privé Pierre de Lune. I absolutely loved it and have never

managed to find anything that captures the same feeling. It had such a clean, soft,

almost soapy quality while still feeling fresh and elegant. I’d be so grateful for any

recommendations! Many thanks in advance, Netta.’

Daniela Andrier (well known for her love of iris) created Pierre de Lune, featuring

violet, iris, cassia & woody notes.

Suzy suggests:

Prada Infusion d’Iris

‘This modern and elegant fragrance opens with notes of mandarin, galbanum,

orange and orange blossom which lead to the heart composed of iris, cedar and

vetiver. The base is composed of incense and benzoin.’

Fragonard Belle de Paris

Another stunning iris scent by Daniela Andrier. And only £42 for 100ml eau de

toilette! ‘Belle de paris is elegantly cloaked in iris, a symbol of chic, and wears its

incomparable scent. Its fruity head notes of green mandarin, neroli, and pear

brighten a generous heart of iris absolutely adorned with violet and incense. Musk

and white cedar form its base.’

27 87 Per sē

‘Per sē is our scent identity and the olfactive translation of our core belief: There is

No Scent Like the Present. It combines the now. The achromatic, and the individual

in a sensory experience.

“In creating Per sē, we aimed to capture the very essence of the present moment.

This fragrance is unparalleled; it ebbs and flows with the dynamism of change, yet

its core remains strikingly constant. Just as time never stops, neither does ‘Per sē’.

It serves as evidence of the enduring within the ever-changing.”

Crafting a symphony of achromatic elegance, Per sē is composed of a floral

bouquet, orris butter, and violet leaves. Juxtaposed with clean aldehydes, bamboo,

and a pinch of spicy pepper, a subtle underscore of ambrette seeds, angelica roots,

and gentle musk complete the incompletable experience of the sensory now.’

Nicola suggested:

Diptyque Fleur de Peau

‘A tribute to the mythical love between Psyche and Eros, which led to the birth of

their daughter, Hedone. One scent can convey this legend: musks. At the heart of

Fleur de Peau, they are cottony, downy or soft. Highlighted with iris and ambrette

seed, they reveal their full tactile dimension.

Absolute ambrette seed extract comes from hibiscus flowers. Its notes are

extraordinarily rich: sweet, slightly animal, fruity (like pear and plum).’

Madeline @rocknrollgypsy_13 asks:

‘Hello Suzy and Nicola! Fragrance goddesses!

Long time listener of the pod, I work on a vineyard in the Hunter Valley NSW

Australia and listening to both of you have gotten me through some long, long days

working by myself. My name is Madeleine and I was wondering if you could give me

a perfume prescription to empower and ground me.

Apart from being a musician, one of my other passions is Muay Thai. As a female

fighter I compete quite regularly, recently coming back from a life changing trip to

Bangkok where I competed at the WBC games winning a silver medal for Australia.

It was a tough fight and I know I could’ve done more to win that gold, but my mind

always seems to stop me before I even step over the ropes. My mentality is

something I always battle with, self-doubt, self-confidence and self-belief is always

what I struggle with. This is a weird kind of prescription, but I would like something

to wear before my fights, something that is empowering, fires me up, grounds me

and makes me feel like I am an unstoppable force going into the ring to face my

opponent. Think a goddess of war, powerful, strong, unbreakable and fierce.

Something to spray on before I warm up, or walk into the ring that grounds me,

centres me and reminds me of who I am.

I am open to anything, as my love for perfume has grown so much since listening

to you both. Much love always, thank you for all you do.

Madeleine xx’

Nicola’s answer:

Olfactive O New Earth

‘I am the host who cooks to the rhythm of the seasons, the one who pulls up an

extra chair before you’ve even asked. I believe in the beauty of things made by

hand - the thumbprint in the clay, the worn-in softness of a family heirloom. There

is quiet joy in walking the same path every day and noticing the first green shoots

of change. For me, luxury resides in the weight of a heavy linen shirt and the

simple, rhythmic task of chopping herbs from the windowsill pot. I am a life lived in

the present tense.

NOTES:

Luminous top: shiso, pink peppercorn, spearmint, elemi Present heart: deep-leaf

immersion, armoise, geranium, chamomile blue, cardamom, clary sage Rooted

base: hay absolute, fir balsam, oakmoss, myrrh

MOMENTS:

Nurturing my sourdough starter Fantasising of a life in the wilderness Leaving the

bookshop with just one more A cup of tea in the garden Seeking out the perfect

soulful escape’

Amouage Meander

‘The Amouage Meander eau de parfum explores the exhilarating feeling of

happiness in a land covered by fog – think lush green mountains and running

waterfalls covered in steamy clouds. Translating this surreal landscape using notes

of frankincense and vetiver, the rich greenery with cypriol and jonquille, and the

caramel-hued earth with sandalwood, carrot heart and orris root, this unique

fragrance captivates the senses and doesn’t let go even hours after being spritzed

on the pulses.’

Suzy’s answer:

Eris Parfums Ma Bête

‘MA BÊTE (My Beast) caresses you with the suggestiveness of perfumed fur. A

collision of the floral and the animal, MA BÊTE combines a regal Tunisian Neroli with

spices and a 50 percent overdose of Antoine Lie's own animalic cocktail.’

‘Ma Bête is a fierce beast with raunchy elegance.’ – Antoine Lie (Perfumer)

Aldehydes, Tunisian Neroli, Indian Nutmeg

Indian Cypriol, Honduran Styrax, Indian Jasmine Sambac

Virginia Cedarwood, Indonesian Patchouli, Synthetic Animalic Accord

‘After interviewing Master Perfumer Antoine Lie for Scent and Subversion, Barbara

asked him to help her create a collection of fragrances as bold as her favourite

vintage perfumes but for a modern audience.

Named after ERIS, the Greek goddess of troublemaking and disruption, ERIS

PARFUMS is inspired by muses — divine, human, and fragrant — that exemplify

unconventional beauty and subversive glamour.’

Sora Dora Brocéliande

‘Brocéliande is a bewitching, mystical concentrate. Delightful with its citrus entrance

and sweet notes on a caramel and cinnamon undertone, Broceliande then reveals a

fragrance of indecipherable power. Let yourself be seduced by the full bark of the

oak casks. As it dries, the bark reveals gentle whisky aromas. Deep down, the juice

settles into a desirable, musky mystery. Combining the power of the forest with the

magic of the animal world, SORADORA sign Broceliande like a wild, secret blend

that calls forth and stirs up our most unpredictable instincts. Here's to your

impulses.

Fragrance Notes

Italian Bergamot Essence, Lime Essence, Lemon Essence, Ginger Essence,

Coriander Seeds Essence, Ceylon Cinnamon Essence, Iris, Sesame, CO2 extracts,

Castoreum, Civet, Styrax Pyrogene Essence, Vanilla, Caramel, and Rum’

Map of the Heart Purple Heart

‘Inspired by the Purple Heart medal, awarded for acts of valour, this fragrance

salutes courage in all its forms. Anyone can be a hero in their day-to-day life, and

even the smallest of courageous gestures can make a big difference.

Flipping the olfactory pyramid upside down, The Heart of Valour opens in a darker

place, then moves towards the light. Sometimes all it takes is an act of courage to

move from dark to light, because the fragrance then opens up into a luminous,

optimistic and unique scent. A heroic and unique journey, an ultimately sumptuous

and rewarding scent.

Top: Black Plum, Black Cherry Middle: Salty Liquorice, Violet, Purple Rose Base:

Amber, Australian Sandalwood

PERFUMER Jacques Huclier

HOW IT WEARS The Purple Heart opens with rich, sweet, sumptuous black plum

and black cherry, then as it settles, the other notes begin to sparkle through. The

earthy violet and purple rose are complemented by the salty liquorice which adds a

real sense of intrigue to the fragrance. The longevity of The Purple Heart is

amazing, it lasts at least 8 hours on the skin, settling into a much softer and

smoother fragrance as the hours go by.’

Okay, we all know vanilla has been trending for ages now, but WHY does it prove

so popular? We think half the reason is the sheer diversity of vanillas available,

and the incredibly high-quality materials perfumers are able to use these days.

Plus the fact that vanilla continues to be one of the most universally adored

scents. Love them or loathe them, we feel sure there’s truly something for every

taste (and maybe some that will surprise or even shock you) in this week’s

episode...

Now, obviously, we mean five favourites *each*, we couldn’t possibly contain

them all to only five vanillas when there are SO many excellent varieties of

vanilla fragrances around these days. We have to say, though, f you’re a vanilla

naysayer, please don’t shy away from this episode, as we’ve versions that segue

from the just-launched and fabulously tobacco-filled, the sweetly tempting and

addictive you might expect, to the mind-blowingly modern and unlike any vanilla

you’ve ever smelled.

Encompassing hip-swivelling seduction, a stunning body butter, hugely powerful

fragrant talismans, and summery every-day wearability, there’s also a truly

affordable modern classic vanilla – created by a Master Perfumer who trained at

Chanel, created scents for Frederic Malle, Guerlain, Gucci, Amouage and

Atkinsons, but THIS one can be snapped up for under £30!

While some of our top vanillas crossed over, we also surprised each other with

some of our choices. Now then, which have YOU tried or want to go and smell

after listening...?

We discuss:

D’Orsay Vanilla Affair Extrait

By Nathalie Lorson

‘Immerse yourself in the captivating mystique of D’ORSAY, with Vanilla Affair

extrait de parfum transforming your everyday allure into one of intriguing

elegance.

Its scent – reminiscent of forbidden encounters and fierce passion – is infused

with riveting notes of tobacco and tonka bean, deepened with a vanilla duo, and

grounded with a smoky base of white musks and patchouli. No matter the

occasion, its aromatic blend of exhilarating notes will elevate your essence with

ease.’

The Body Shop Vanilla Body Butter

‘This indulgent cream melts in beautifully, delivering up to 96 hours of hydration

without greasiness. Skin feels instantly softer, smoother and cared for. The

fragrance opens with juicy nashi pear and fresh coconut water, lifted by mood

orchid. At its heart, rich Madagascar vanilla tincture blends with upcycled vanillin

ex rice, creamy milk and heliotrope for a smooth, enveloping warmth. It settles

into a sensual base of vanilla absolute, sandalwood and second skin musk for a

long lasting, skin hugging finish. Every application is a warm, comforting routine.’

Jovoy Fire at Will

‘This perfume’s sweet promises echo around your like languorous kisses.

Crafted by independent perfumer Vanina Murraciole, Fire at Will eau de parfum

from JOVOY explores the duality of vanilla and mimosa – at once intense yet

subtle, seductive yet enchanting. The opening reveals an unexpected vanilla: airy

and ethereal, lifted by honeyed, powdery mimosa. As it evolves, the vanilla

becomes more gourmand and fruity, evoking the delicacy of real vanilla ice

cream while lingering with the allure of whispered promises.’

Top Notes: Mimosa Absolut, Vanilla Absolut

Middle Notes: Vanilla Sugar, Brown Sugar

Base Notes: White Musks, Amber Vetiver

Maison Louis Marie No.15 Vanille Infinie

‘Vanille Infinie, a luxurious and sweet gourmand, is a celebration of hope and

renewal. No.15 Vanille Infinie unfolds as a warm, luminous composition, soft vanilla

layered with citron, sugared amber and cashmere oud for gentle resinous warmth.

The Eau de Parfum evolves naturally on skin, shifting with your body heat to reveal

a smooth, enveloping trail that feels both intimate and enduring.’

Jeroboam Insulo

‘For François Hénin, the founder of Jeroboam, vanilla has always been the

absolute weapon of seductive souls. The ingredient is recognized throughout the

world as an irresistible enticement to be devoured. Insulo (meaning ‘island’ in

Esperanto) is used in this case as a code name for Madagascar, the island which

produces perhaps the highest quality and most famous vanilla in the world.

The olfactive pyramid of Insulo is incredibly simple with vanilla at the top, jasmine

at the heart and the signature blend of enigmatic musks at the base. These few

notes combine to produce a luxurious and irresistible.’

AKRO Bake

‘Bake is our addictive cupcake fragrance.

Everyone has their own favourite sweet treat, and for Akro, it's the small, but

perfectly delicious lemon cupcake—an item we just can’t resist any time we walk

past a good bakery. To honour our favourite cupcakes, we created BAKE, a

gourmand fragrance made up of Tart Lemon notes, followed by sweet Vanilla and

rich, nutty Praline. BAKE is so good, you might not need that second cupcake

after all.

TOP: Lemon peel

MIDDLE: Chantilly cream, Praline

BASE: Brown sugar, Vanilla.’

Matiere Premiere Vanilla Powder

‘A sophisticated take on vanilla, diffusing like a bright, soft cloud. I contrasted

dark vanilla absolute with an overdose of modern white perfumer powders — as

if the vanilla bean had been painted white.

Palo Santo Oil Ecuador brings structure and verticality. The addictive character of

Vanilla is reinforced by Coconut powder. White Musks envelop the Vanilla and

powders for a contemporary, luminous perfume.’ - Aurélien Guichard

Rochas Tocade

One of THE best vanillas if you’re on a budget. Or even if you’re not, come to

that!

‘Originally launched in 1994, and composed by Maurice Roucel, Rochas Tocade

opens with a vibrant burst of bergamot and green notes, setting the stage for a

heart that blooms with the rich aromas of rose, geranium, and magnolia. These

floral elements are beautifully balanced by the warmth of vanilla and amber,

creating a harmonious blend that is both sensual and inviting. The base notes of

musk and cedarwood add depth and longevity, ensuring that this enchanting

fragrance lingers on your skin throughout the day.’

Season 8, Episode 7 Alice du Parcq & The Philosophy of Perfume (her

NEW BOOK!)

This week we welcome back dear perfume pal and friend of the pod (star of two

previous episodes), the multi-award-winning fragrance writer, presenter, content

creator and now AUTHOR, Alice du Parcq!

Alice has always been ‘on a mission to decode perfume in a fun, relatable and

objective way.’ Now, added to her perfumed portfolio will be an incredibly gift-

able (to self or scent-loving friends) book, created in collaboration with none

other than The British Library, called The Philosophy of Perfume. Out in October,

we cannot WAIT to read it, and in this episode, Alice gives us a sneak peek at

what you expect to find inside, plus the entire story of how the book came to be,

and why she burst into tears in a library.

We’ve even managed to wangle a must-sniff list of perfumes Alice has been

wowed by so far this year (not in the book, just a little scented extra to get you

scurrying to smell them). We loved this warm, emotive, wide-ranging

conversation and, as ever, could have talked to Alice for hours longer, and we so

hope you enjoy this deep dive into one of the most hotly anticipated books for

some time...

Some context about the British Library and this collection:

‘The British Library has an in-house publishing division, and they have an

established collection of around 18 books called "The Philosophy Of...". It's a

family of small giftable books that cover fun and whimsical lifestyle topics, such

The Philosophy of Cheese, The Philosophy of Christmas of Gin, of

Tattoos and of Houseplants, where an expert in that specific field dives into the

origins and evolution of that subject. In January, I was invited to do The

Philosophy of Perfume and it will sit within this collection but as a slightly

longer and more standout format. It's out in October, in time for the gifting

season, and the RRP is £12.99.’

About the book:

‘The Philosophy of Perfume is a fun, warm, thoughtful and practical book all

about fragrance, which looks at its origins and how it's made, how we smell and

how best to shop for perfume. It is an adventure into the facts, folklore and

fantasies surrounding perfume, delving into how it has evolved through the eras

and decades as an artform, reflecting our cultural patterns through history. In

the book, you'llmeet perfumers who share insights into their fascinating creative

process; you'll learn the science behind how we smell and the wild emotional

voyage from smell to soul! There are tales of scented superstitions, and the

literary and historical figures who inspire perfume, plus the ways in which AI is

impacting the future of fragrance and a helpful guide on how to shop for

perfume and find The One(s!).

It was so important to me that this book was not for perfume experts, but for

fragrance lovers of all ages who want a moment of enchantment laced with

interesting facts, a sprinkle of science and some practical guidance when on their

next scent shopping safari.’

Can’t wait until October? You can see Alice talking live, interviewed by the

wonderful Amanda Carr (founder of Barnes Fragrance Fair @barnesfragrancefair)

at the Barnes Bookfest sat 26 th September at 6pm, and get tickets and more

info here: https://barnesbookfest.org/

Fragrances Alice has adored so far this year:

Pia Long’s Olfiction Iconic (by name and nature! An utterly staggering vision of

1980s department stores, expensive makeup and body creams – nostalgia

personified)

Botega Venetta’s new Ulta collection (especially Bare Morning which Alice

feels is the longest-lasting most comforting powdery scent she’s smelled for

years)

Hellenist (all of them basically – a stunning house Suzy first saw at Pitti

Fragranze, and which we all very much hope will be available in U.K. soon)

Neal’s Yard Remedies Mood Awakening Collection (Alice loved how true

these felt to the brand’s ethos, and how they slotted so perfectly into their most

beloved collections)

Ode Ona (all of them, again – an exquisitely crafted and curated collection, all

worth exploring)

This week is a truly madcap sniffathon HOPEFULLY encompassing [*takes a

deep breath*] wild seascapes, fragrant ghosts and a notorious rake; a spicy

summer scent to set your senses tingling; a fruity treat based on a perfumer’s

favourite breakfast; a splendiferous peacock strutting its scented stuff; a stunning

sueded rose; perfumes pulled straight from the vegetable patch; Harrods

exclusives to swoon over; a seriously affordable new niche house; a mesmerising

myrrh, and Alice du Parcq’s book pre-order discount code…

AND if all that wasn’t enough, we’re also answering a #listenerprescription for a

jasmine fragrance to remind her of a dance while wearing jasmine garlands.

Phew!

Can we possibly fit it all in without going off-topic? Listen along and find out!

BeauFort London continued: Following on from last week’s fascinating interview

with founder Leo Crabtree, Nicola tries a trio of intriguing scents:

Cape Wrath

‘Cape Wrath Eau De Parfum. Named after the rugged area of coastline on the

most North Westerly tip of Britain, Cape Wrath pulls inspiration from this wild,

treacherous seascape. The remote landmark - named after the old Norse word

for ‘turning point’ has for centuries been used by sailors to safely navigate the

coast of Britain, yet its treacherous waters have claimed countless vessels.

Character: Powerful; wild; windswept THE WEARING EXPERIENCE

Top Notes: Pink Pepper, Elemi, Galbanum, Angelica Root Opens with a blast of

bracing ocean air.

Heart Notes: Frankincense, Mastic, Geranium Resinous smoke and geranium

add both warmth and austerity.

Base Notes: Ambergris, Vetiver, Ambrette, Seaweed, Oakmoss

Absolute Mossy oceanic base which powerfully lingers.

Perfumer: Euan McCall

Absent Presence

‘‘O absent presence, Stella is not here’

The fifth and final instalment of the Revenants collection draws inspiration from

the Elizabethan poet Sir Philip Sidney. In his Sonnet sequence ‘Astrophel and

Stella’ Sidney develops and captures the essence of a haunting… the presence

of one that is always felt but never seen.

‘Now I, wit-beaten long by hardest fate,

So dull am, that I cannot look into

The ground of this fierce love and lovely hate,

Then some good body tell me how I do,

Whose presence absence, absent presence is;

Blesst in my curse, and cursed in my bliss.’

Comprising the highest level of natural ingredients of any BeauFort fragrance,

Absent Presence explores its themes with typically ‘overdosed’ concentrations of

violet leaf absolute, vetiver bourbon oil, smoky leather and black pepper oil. As

with all the Revenants family, Absent Presence is presented as 30% Eau De

Parfum.

Character: Dark; enveloping; waves.

THE WEARING EXPERIENCE

Top Notes: Bergamot, Galbanum, Pepper Fresh, green, and fleeting felt but out

of reach.

Heart Notes: Jasmine, Violet Jasmine and violet bloom with intensity.

Base Notes: Leather, Sandalwood, Musk, Amber, Cedarwood Warm leather,

woods, amber and musk linger like a ghost on the skin, the violet heart returning

in waves.

Perfumer: Julie Dunkley.’

Rake & Ruin

‘Rake & Ruin Eau De Parfum is inspired by the works of satirist William Hogarth,

this fragrance summons his characters from a gin soaked 18th century London.

This debauched Eau De Parfum incorporates the botanical ingredients of gin;

dark woods, civet, musks and amber bringing to life 'all manner of Vice and

Wickedness.’ THE WEARING EXPERIENCE

Top Notes: Angelica, Liquorice, Juniper, Coriander, Szechuan Pepper, Pink

Pepper, Orange, Lemon Opens with a sharp, gin-like freshness, spiced and

effervescent.

Heart Notes: Cypress, Pine Needles, Castoreum, Labdanum, Cade Oil, Costus,

Violet Orris Bowing to a heart of smoky woods, animalic tones and powdered

florals.

Base Notes: Dark Woods, Ambrarome, Sandalwood, Musk Dark woods, musk

and animalic. Ambrarome complete the seductive yet slightly sinister finish.’

Alice du Parcq’s book: The Philosophy of Perfume

Pre-order at Waterstones for £10 (25% off with code SUMMER26)

https://tinyurl.com/AliceWaterstones

‘The Philosophy of Perfume is a fun, warm, thoughtful and practical book all

about fragrance, which looks at its origins and how it's made, how we smell and

how best to shop for perfume. It is an adventure into the facts, folklore and

fantasies surrounding perfume, delving into how it has evolved through the eras

and decades as an artform, reflecting our cultural patterns through history. In the

book, you'll meet perfumers who share insights into their fascinating creative

process; you'll learn the science behind how we smell and the wild emotional

voyage from smell to soul! There are tales of scented superstitions, and the

literary and historical figures who inspire perfume, plus the ways in which AI is

impacting the future of fragrance and a helpful guide on how to shop for perfume

and find The One(s!).

It was so important to me that this book was not for perfume experts, but for

fragrance lovers of all ages who want a moment of enchantment laced with

interesting facts, a sprinkle of science and some practical guidance when on their

next scent shopping safari.’

AKRO Heat

‘HEAT is our addictive chili fragrance.

Chili is not just a spice. It is a rush. A burn you think you can handle. The first

time you smell it, it hits, it wakes you up. Then it warms you. Then you want it

again.

The best chili doesn’t just flavour. It ignites. It makes your skin tingle. Your

temperature rise. Your pulse quicken. Your senses sharpen.

HEAT is that moment when warmth turns into craving. When your body asks for

more. A vibrant indulgence. A dopamine shot you keep coming back to.

HEAT is a scent that sets you on fire and makes you love the burn.

TOP: CORIANDER SEED, LEMON, RED CHILI

MIDDLE: CARDAMOM, GINGER, JUNIPER

BASE: CEDARWOOD, AMBROX, MUSK.’

Jeroboam Oud Morning

By Vanina Muracciole

‘Oud Morning from Jeroboam is the perfect balance of brightness and depth.

Opening with an unexpected burst of blueberry, saffron and resins, the

composition moves into a heart of Indian oud, softened with leather and aged

woods. Sandalwood, ambroxan and white musk anchor it into a smooth, sensual

base, finishing the creation on an intimate note.

Top Notes: Blueberry, Gurjum Balsam, Saffron

Middle Notes: Indian Oudh, Leather, Dry Wood, Violet

Base Notes: Sugar, Sandalwood, Cedarwood, White Musks.’

Alexandre J Royal Peacock (Harrods Exclusive)

‘At the turn of the 20th century, Art Nouveau reshaped the decorative arts.

Mucha, Gallé, Tiffany, Lalique, all drew on nature to invent a new grammar of

curves, stylised plants and extraordinary birds. Among them,

the peacock reigned supreme: its iridescent eyes and regal bearing embodied

the movement's core belief in beauty for beauty's sake.

The opening evokes an Italian espresso served with Viennese pastry. Roasted

coffee dialogues with hazelnut in a frankly gourmand accord, before maple

syrup brings its unmistakable amber roundness, sweet without cloying, almost

woody. Caramel amplifies the indulgence, while violet casts a powdery floral veil

that keeps the composition from tipping into excess. The vanilla-almond base

settles into a lasting, addictive warmth.’

Ormonde Jayne Suede Silhouette

‘Bathed in crimson and violet, Suede Silhouette reflects the warmth of saffron,

the richness of raspberry and the quiet confidence of suede. Exclusively at

Selfridges.’

Jo Malone London Veggies collection:

Celine Roux says: ‘We just loved that people, even in the middle of cities like

London, can grow their own carrots and herbs – the fact that everyone wants to

have a grasp on nature from wherever they are. This [collection] takes that idea

of something homegrown and unmanicured but gives it a fresh take’

Velvety Butternut:

‘The path ahead is smooth, just like a velvety butternut playfully plucked from the

veggie patch. Notes of smooth butternut, warm tonka bean and patchouli create

a woody gourmand scent.

Top - Ginger

Spicy and fresh with a zingy lemon quality, it opens the fragrance with lively

brightness.

Heart - Butternut

Smooth and nutty, notes of butternut imbues the fragrance with a delicious

warmth and creaminess.

Base - Patchouli

Grounded in patchouli, a sensuously deep woody note that enhances the

longevity of the fragrance.’

Carrot Blossom:

‘Life is sweet, just like carrot blossom gloriously gathered from the veggie patch.

Notes of subtly sweet carrot, orange flower and white musk create a fresh floral

scent.

Top - Fennel

Herbaceous with hints of aniseed, it adds a dewy sweetness to the top notes.

Heart - Carrot Blossom

Lightly floral and sweet, with an earthy accent, complementing the powdery notes

of orris.

Base - Patchouli

Grounded in patchouli, a sensuously deep woody note that enhances the

longevity of the fragrance.’

Suzy’s favourite: Scarlet Beetroot

‘Colour is all around, just like a scarlet beetroot splendidly spied in the veggie

patch. Notes of beetroot, vibrant blackcurrant and a dash of patchouli create a

delicious fruity scent.

Top - Blackcurrant

Intensely juicy and ripe, it gives a crisp edge to the fragrance.

Heart - Beetroot

An accord that captures the naturalness of freshly cut beetroot combined with an

earthy texture.

Base - Patchouli

Grounded in patchouli, a sensuously deep woody note that enhances the

longevity of the fragrance.’

Jo Malone London Cologne Intense Harrods exclusives x 2:

Iris & White Musk

‘The Iris and White Musk Cologne Intense from Jo Malone London is a light and

airy scent that’s perfect for everyday use. It marries powdery iris with creamy

white musk, resulting in a distinctive aroma that’s ideal for layering with other

fragrances but can also be worn alone.

Fragrance Notes: Casablanca, White Musk, Vanilla.’

Rose & Oud Leather

‘A magnetic floral scent that blends smoky leather with oud.

Enduringly at the forefront of luxury perfumery, Jo Malone London presents the

Rose and Oud Leather Cologne Intense. The captivating fragrance is a tribute to

the prevailing beauty of the flower and is brought to life by additional notes of

patchouli and amber.

Top Notes: Oud, Leather

Middle Notes: Damask Rose

Base Notes: Patchouli, Amber.’

Idiom fragrances pop-up shop - 33 Great Windmill Street, Soho: open until

July 26th (but stay tuned for news of a permanent boutique soon!)

All the fragrances are layerable, and only £38 for 30ml eau de parfum. (Suzy’s

favourite combo is Acoustic Rose / Pepper Solstice / 3D Amplifier). In the

meantime: try a discovery kit of them all for £35.

Idiom

33 Great Windmill Street

Mon-Sat 12pm-7pm

Sun 12pm-5pm

idiomfragrances.com

Ella K Myrrh K

‘Myrrh K is a fragrance that reconciles indulgence with the sacred. It opens with

sundrenched florals and bitter almond, then melts into a tender sweetness —

Omani halwa, honey, toasted sesame, and golden saffron. Among the top notes,

the rose of Jebel Akhdar — fresh, pure, hand-picked in the mountains of Oman

— brings a subtle sophistication to the composition.

Its delicate rosewater nuance blends with the sweet halwa accord, enriching the

gourmandise with floral refinement. It acts like a red thread, linking flower to

resin, the floral to the sacred.

At the heart, a soft, luminous myrrh creates a bond between resin and skin. The

base wraps itself around roasted tonka bean, Madagascar vanilla, and warm

woods, leaving a deep and caressing trail.’

Bon Parfumeur at Jovoy: 005 Riviera Absolue

‘A convertible on the coastal road. The Mediterranean stretching endlessly

ahead. Wind in the hair, sun on the skin. 005 Riviera Absolue is all of this distilled

into three notes. A hesperidic aromatic extract by Paul Guerlain for Bon

Parfumeur.

The opening is an immediate and striking spark: Caviar Lemon, an Australian

citrus with juicy micro-beads, whose citrus vivacity and lightly floral brightness

are infinitely more precise and intense than classic lemon, explodes on the skin

with an almost electric freshness. No roundness, no conventional sweetness:

simply the sharp purity of an exceptional citrus, like the first ray of sunlight on

water in the morning. An opening that awakens instantly and resembles nothing

else.

At the heart, Ginger Essence takes over with a spiced, lightly citrus vivacity that

naturally extends the momentum of the opening. Sharp without burning, aromatic

without weighing down, ginger gives Riviera Absolue its characteristic energy. A

heart that sustains the tension and brightness of the opening while adding a

warm, spiced and discreetly aromatic depth.

At the base, Tomato Leaf signs Riviera Absoluewith its most unexpected and

most defining touch. Green, lightly tart, fresh and subtly bitter, it anchors the

fragrance in something resolutely vegetal and organic, entirely free of

conventional woody or ambered bases. It is this final note that transforms a spark

of freshness into an infinite memory: the scent of wild roadside vegetation,

caught at full speed, impossible to hold and impossible to forget.’

Listener prescription:

Geraldine asks:

‘Lovely ladies, thank you for all you continue to do, the joy you bring and your

inspirational content. I have another scent prescription for you inspired by your

recent Patreon episode on scents which remind people of special holiday places.

As a young girl I grew up in the Middle East and remember the smell of flower

garlands round my neck as part of a local dance I learned. The garlands were

mostly of jasmine and I adored Ostens Jasmine Impressions which transported

me back there. Sadly I've finished my Ostens bottle and can't find a replacement

anywhere. My mission for you this time is do you know of anywhere who stocks it

that can deliver to the UK please? Alternatively can you recommend some other

jasmine realistic fragrances I could try please? Thank you so much once again,

love Geraldine xxx’

ANSWER:

Last remaining Ostens fragrances / candles we know of available at Boots and

online (for delivery or Click & Collect) Sadly no jasmine perfume, but the Jasmine

candles are still there while stocks last! It MIGHT be worth trying the Boots niche

fragrance boutique at Broadgate shopping centre East London…?

https://www.boots.com/ostens

https://broadgate.co.uk/eatdrinkshop/boots-fragrance/

NYITA JASMIA™ Body Oil

‘Exquisitely scented with Enfleurage Jasmine to capture the full complexity of the

original flower. A blend of 11 nutrient-rich, cold-pressed, organic oils, super-

charged with our Power Plant Infusion™ . The Ultimate Seed Elixir will intensely

nourish your skin leaving it feeling firmer and remarkably radiant.

High in the Andes Mountains, our artisan jasmine growers employ an extremely

rare, Ancient Egyptian technique called ‘enfleurage’ to extract the essential oil for

this treasured body oil.

Enfleurage has almost vanished from modern perfumery today due to its time

consuming nature and cost.

Every day, for over a month, fresh jasmine petals are meticulously layered on

organic vegetable wax, painstakingly added by hand. Once the desired scent is

reached, it is then rinsed with an organic alcohol and the precious jasmine

essential oil is extracted.

Too delicate a flower to steam-distil, almost all jasmine is currently extracted with

a petrochemical solvent hexane or is a mass-produced synthetic. We never use

synthetics or petrochemical extracted scents.

Our special technique is superior to hexane extracted jasmine not only

environmentally, but also because it captures the full range and complexity of the

original scent, leaving an exceptional quality essential oil, with a scent like no

other. It is a rare commodity, produced in small, limited batches.’

Rogue Perfumery Jasmin Antique

‘Fresh, bright, living jasmine. Floral, fruity, indolic, creamy. The heady fragrance

of jasmine blossoms, permeating the summer night air. Jasmine Blossoms,

Musk, Clove, Vanilla.’

Chloé Atelier des Fleurs Jasminum

‘Envelop in Chloé's sumptuously velvety Jasminum Sambac eau de parfum, part

of the prestigious Atelier des Fleurs collection inspired by the art of floral

composition. An ode to the perfumer's memory of the exquisite jasmine sambac

Louise Turner smelled on Mother's Day in Bangkok, this fresh floral fragrance

evokes soft, sunny aromatic petals laced with dewdrops. Designed to work in

harmony, the fragrances from this collection can be layered-up or worn alone for

a distinctive signature.’

Diptyque Olene

‘Olene tells the story of Venetian gardens. In the evening, under the pergolas, the

sweet fragrance of wisteria and jasmine or sometimes honeysuckle, just as

delicate. Cross bridges to lose yourself, and then stroll through the narrow streets

to perceive the thousand and one scents of the flowers. The illustration for Olene

depicts Flora, a powerful Roman goddess. Endowed with great beauty, she is the

goddess of flowers, springtime and fertility.’

[AD: This episode is proud to be in partnership with BeauFort London - a house Suzy has championed from the start, spoken about passionately over the years, and continues to be excited by.]

From a single, hand-poured moustache wax to one of the world’s most daringly distinctive fragrance houses, BeauFort London’s story is as elemental as the scents themselves. Founded in 2013 by musician Leo Crabtree, the brand was born from salt-spray memories, naval histories and a fascination with the poetry of smoke — quite literally “per fumum” (‘through smoke’).

In this episode of On The Scent Podcast, Suzy Nightingale and Nicola Bonn sit down with Leo to trace that journey: from the formative fragrances he wore as a teenager to the moment he realised scent could become a storytelling medium for his fascinations with maritime might, Shakespearean drama, and the awe-inspiring power of nature.

With the launch of Come Hell Or High Water in 2015 — featuring the now-iconic Tonnerre, Coeur de Noir and Vi et Armis — BeauFort London set out its stall with unapologetically bold compositions, rich in unusual materials and deliberately ‘overdosed’ in their intensity. As you listen, you will hear Suzy, Nicola and Leo smelling some of the creations together — Nicola encountering them properly for the first time, while Suzy revisits fragrances she has worn and championed for years, having known Leo since the brand’s earliest days and even helping to shape the direction of Fathom V.

Together, we delve into the inspirations behind the scents, the emotions they stir, and the evolving landscape of perfumery that Leo reflects upon with candour. It is a conversation about transformation — personal, creative, and within the industry itself — and one that invites you to explore these boldly original fragrances for yourself…

Embracing the heat, and leaning into the ‘Sunscreen Scent’ perfume profile this week, we’re following on from the BONUS episode originally available to Patreon subscribers (which should soon be available here too - keep checking & scroll back in your podcast app to find it), in which we explored our favourite scented sunscreens. Flipping that fragrant theme on its head, this time we’re all about those solar, ‘holiday in a bottle’ type perfumes, and find ourselves particularly drawn to those with a vintage vibe.

Later in the episode, Nicola answers a listener question from someone who had fallen head over heels for spicy tonka / vanilla fragrances way out of her budget, and seeks affordable scents to satiate this new obsession…

We discuss;

Nuxe Prodigieux Le Parfum

This first launched in 2012, and was created by Serge Majoullier (who also created Mugler Womanity Eau Pour Elle and Viktor&Rolf Bonbon).

Top notes are Orange Blossom, Mandarin Orange, Orange and Bergamot; middle notes are Gardenia, Magnolia and Rose; base notes are Coconut Milk, Vanilla and Pebbles.

DIOR La Collection Privé Eden-Roc

We rather suspect that Dior’s resident perfumer, François Demachy, enjoyed even more than usual his ‘research’ for this fragrance, a hymn to one of the world’s most legendary hotels, on the rocky shore of the Côte d’Azur. Flooded with sunlight, it’s cooled and ruffled by a salty breeze, revealing an accord reminiscent of nothing so much as expensive suntan oil, suffused with jasmine and a touch of coconut. Truly the stuff of holiday dreams.

Juliette Has a Gun Sunny Side Up

Ohhh allow yourself to dream of a scented destination somewhere more far flung. Close your eyes and imagine an impossibly perfect beach: warm sand, warm skin, an omnipresent hush of crystal waters massaging brightly coloured pebbles and your own deep, contented breaths. Sunny Side Up is all blissfully relaxed limbs glowing with the retro-smelling scent of suntan oil, the softness of the blanket beneath you and a waft of vanilla ice-cream on the breeze as the sun dips its toes in the ocean. Bliss in fragrant form!

Elie Saab Le Parfum Lumière

‘Like an haute couture dress, Elie Saab fragrances adorn the feminine form, with a radiant sensuality. Elie Saab Le Parfum Lumière captures the sensual sparkle of light. The Dawn. The time when night meets day, when a ray of light softly glides across the darkness and reveals the golden hues of daybreak. Inspired by Mediterranean sun rays, Elie Saab Le Parfum Lumière is an ode of warm light.’

Top notes

Mandarin Essence, Ylang-Ylang

Heart notes

Jasmine Samac Absolut India, Tuberose

Base notes

Patchouli, Musky Woods & Soft amber

Tom Ford Soleil

‘Soleil Brûlant captures the high-shine brilliance of the golden sun beaming on a private oasis. Sun-kissed citrus mingles with spices giving way to an ornate and regal floral heart—while orange flower absolute and black honey release a seductive vapor, melting into the burnished warmth of amber.

Soleil Brûlant releases sun-kissed florals warmed by amber, conjuring a blazing encounter between gilded rays and naked skin. Your own private summer.’

Jennifer Elizabeth:

Hi Nicola and Suzy, I find myself turning to your podcast and fragrance in general to comfort and sweeten my day during the cold winter in Melbourne. I am really enjoying my perfume journey and recently discovered a Libertine Parfumerie near me! I got a sample of Amouge, guidance and Tonka Kumaru Atelier Materi. I didn’t think I would like the spicy saffron in Guidance but I have really warmed to it! And now expanding my tastes into spicy fragrances with a bit of heat. I absolutely love Tonka Kumaru it has become my favourite! Unfortunately both perfumes are way above my budget, and I was wondering if you have any recommendations for a similar fragrance with tonka, vanilla, almond and a spice. I find this fragrance very complex and addictive and its projection is amazing, so it would be may to find something under 100 pounds . I love this scent so much I’d also like to find a candle with similar almond and cardamon notes.

I also like Vanilla Powder Matiere Premier.

Ps I am so happy I can walk into Mecca or libertine and identity so many of the perfumes from your podcast! It brings me such joy!

Nicola’s suggestions:

Essential Parfums Divine Vanilla

Granado Tonka Eau de Toilette

L'Occitane Almond Candle

Mama Moon Prosperity and Courage Candle

Scents Journey - Masala Chai Candle

Jsala - Apothecary Candle

Talk about varied - we go from a ‘posh banana’ Brazilian carnival in a bottle Nicola experienced at a vibrantly fun perfume pop-up in Liberty, to an extraordinary, burning, bloodied rose Suzy’s entranced by (don’t worry - it’s not as scary as it sounds!)

We’re also featuring two incredibly inspirational women on this week’s show - one who’s created her own fragrance brand to reflect a life lived in scent and adventure, and another who’s bringing the playfulness back into perfumery by allowing you (and your friends) to attend a blending workshop via Zoom - to create your own fragrance with her stunning and easy-to-use accords. A whole group of the #fragfam (Suzy, Nicola, Jo, Alice du Parcq, Amanda Carr, Thomas & Hayden attended a Zoom, and we were HUGELY impressed, plus love the scents we blended!)

Amidst all of that there’s talk of a naughty Toy Boy who’s back in town, and Suzy finds two exquisite (and very affordable) iris-forward fragrances for a listener.

Plus: get the second issue of On The Scent magazine which has just been published and is already flying out again! Order online here:

https://www.onthescentmedia.com/on-the-scent-magazine

Now, on with the show, and let’s jump in…

We discuss:

Granado Yes, Nós Temos Banana!

The Brazilian brand has taken over Liberty’s historic Atrium for the whole of July with a huge banana pop-up! Do see it in-person if you can. They say: ‘Evoking the tropical vibrance of Brazil in olfactive form, Yes, Nós Temos Banana! eau de parfum from Granado is an invigorating addition to any fragrance collection.

Anchored by a classic, woody base of sandalwood and cedar, this fragrance combines vibrant notes of banana and peach blossom with the romantic delicacy of fig and iris, while highlighting banana leaf as the protagonist of the creation - spritz onto skin for a breath of escapism.’

L’Entropiste Ensang Noir

[From Sainte Cellier] ‘This rose is on fire… Ensang Noir is an extraordinarily pungent rose perfume, sanguineous red petals stained with black ink, rusted at the bleeding edges. A scent of temptation, danger and the ritualistic fumes of burnt love. Fanatical, obsessive. Skin becomes an altar for this most plush and smoky offering.’

Top Notes: aldehydes, blackcurrant, coriander, cucumber

Heart Notes: red rose, magnolia, peony

Base Notes: incense, birch, opoponax, patchouli, vetiver, caramel

Moschino ToyBoy 2

‘Moschino’s celebrated fragrance for him is back! This time, the new TOY BOY 2 will take you on a sensory journey that opens with a spicy spark and closes with an amber caress.

Toy boy 2 comes alive with an explosion of intriguing nutmeg and sparkling ginger and sets out on a quest to start a journey of lively and ironic charm, to escape from the daily greyness by retracing distant but ever-present emotions. It wraps you in a warm embrace of intense coffee, while akigalawood adds a bold touch. As the adventure continues, it leaves behind a soft trail of myrrh and vetiver, comforting you and promising even more surprises.’

Top notes

saffron accord, nutmeg Indonesia, fresh ginger

Heart notes

coffee extract, cedarwood, akigalawood

Base notes

cistus concrete, vetiver oul, myrrh resinoid

Liz Astor Fragrances

‘Three perfumes, three chapters of a life lived through fragrance.

From an English garden to distant horizons and star-filled nights — each captures a moment in Liz Astor’s journey: where she began, where she wandered, and what she became.’

HETHERSETT

‘Hethersett is a return to origin — a chypre–fruity fragrance that feels like sunlight through orchard branches and summer gardens in full bloom. Each breath reveals the early whispers of creativity: petals, citrus, and memory intertwined. Bright, romantic, rooted — the scent of home becoming art.

Olfactory Notes Orange • Citron • Jasmine • Magnolia • Orange Blossom • Saffron • Cedarwood • Musk

From £40 for 7.5ml

8.7°S 118.3°E

‘The coordinates point to a remote stretch of the Indonesian sea — a place etched in Liz Astor’s travels, when she chased adventure beyond familiar shores.

8.7°S 118.3°E captures the spirit of exploration — the scent of salt spray and sunlight, the pulse of courage, and the thrill of finding beauty in the unknown. It is both fearless and fluid, an ode to self-discovery carried on the ocean wind.

Tone Wild, radiant, unbound — freedom bottled in light and sea air.

Olfactory Notes Bergamot • Mandarin • Grapefruit • Clary Sage • Jasmine • Patchouli • Vetiver’

From £40 for 7.6ml eau de parfum

Nadira No.9

‘Nadira No.9 evokes the sensual hush of desert air beneath a vast night sky — where time slows and the spirit expands. It’s a fragrance of reverence and reflection, born of distant travels and the quiet awe of standing beneath a thousand unfamiliar.

Soft, luminous, intimate — starlight woven through spice and skin.’

Amber • Musk • Night-blooming Florals • Spiced Woods’

From £70 for 7.5ml parfum

Discovery Set: £25 for x3 samples

Purchase the collection for £25 — this is fully redeemable against a future purchase of any 75ml fragrance once you’ve chosen your favourite.

https://lizastor.com/

Elix perfume blending workshop (via Zoom)

Nicole founder Elix because: ‘Scent is uniquely powerful, yet we rarely have the opportunity to play and experiment with it. After a career in product innovation and creative facilitation, I returned to my childhood dream of perfume alchemy. Artisan perfumery became my creative outlet during lockdown, and I was inspired by the joy and mindfulness it brought into my life. I founded ELIX Personal Alchemyto share that playful magic with others and make artisan personalised perfumery more accessible.’

‘Our hand-crafted Eau de Toilette blending accords harmonise beautifully in endless combinations. Blend 2–4 accords together to create a range of scents that evolve with your mood, style or occasion; or enjoy them solo.

Our luxury set contains everything you need to enjoy a mindful personal ritual or a shared creative experience at home.

Our curated collections are inspired by some of the most-loved accord combinations created during our live workshops, and include a selection of popular blending ideas to inspire your own journey.

• Up to 70% naturally derived ingredients l • Blending accords can be worn alone or combined • Two refillable atomisers with replenishable elements • Additional accords available individually • Hand-crafted and hand-packed in the U.K.’

£149 Personal Alchemy Blending Kit

https://www.elixfragrance.com/

Listener Prescription:

Joanna Caccavo:

Dear Suzy and Nicola,

First of all, a big congratulations on the new magazine! It is absolutely mouthwatering and Suzy’s prose is exquisite - I MUST read more! I am also eager for a perfume prescription for an affordable ($100 or under) very iris-forward fragrance. I’m accustomed to seeing iris perfumes raved about online, but they tend to be quite pricy. However, I recently blind-bought Zara’s Romance d’Iris Elixir, which is almost an iris soliflore and about $70, and I fell head-over-heels in love! I know that iris is a note in many fragrances, both expensive and inexpensive, but in my (admittedly limited!) experience it’s usually quite subtle. Surely there must be other affordable super-iris-y perfumes out there? (They needn’t smell only of iris, but I’d like that to be the dominant note.) Thank you! :)

Suzy suggested:

Fragonard Belle de Paris

Composed by Daniela Andrier (of Prada Infusion d’Iris fame!) here,;lbase notes are Musk and White Cedar Extract.

‘Belle de Paris is elegantly cloaked in iris, a symbol of chic, and wears its incomparable scent.

Its fruity head notes of green mandarin, neroli, and pear brighten a generous heart of iris absolute adorned

with violet and incense. Musk and white cedar form its base.’

Top Notes: neroli, pear and green mandarin;

Heart Notes: iris, violet and incense

Base Notes: musk and white cedar extract.

€42 for 100ml eau de toilette

4160 Tuesdays Hush Hush

‘Imagine a secret 1920s party, the perfumes that people are wearing are the new things: violets and iris, vanilla and musks. They're wearing smart suits and straight silk dresses with beaded tassels. Someone opens a new paper packet of cigarettes, and they all whip out their elegant holders, even the women!

It has a powdery feel reminiscent of early 20th Century perfumes, because we both love the violet-iris texture and aroma created by ionones and irones, including those from natural orris (slightly extravagant but worth every penny). Among the many materials assembled here to create a completely new scent, we have a smidgen of natural rose, a fair quantity of Cashmeran, woods, sparkly orange flower, bergamot, creamy ethyl vanillin and layers of musks.’

£35 for 15ml eau de toilette

Looking for some truly outstanding and very affordable fragrances? Have we got an episode for you! This week, as challenged by you, we went on a scent safari sniffing our way around the new fragrances in one of the U.K’s most beloved high street shops. The results? Well, we were rather awe-struck with how wonderful they were, to be honest.

Suzy is totally in love with a new perfume shop she popped into for a (free!) half-hour hand and massage the other day; and we’ve also got some suggestions for a listener desperately missing their favourite (now discontinued) fragrance, and start this week’s episode with some lovely feedback about a previous listener prescription…

Listener feedback:

Anja:

‘Hello, after listening to your brilliant podcast episode over the weekend and the scent prescription on marocan scents one perfume came straight into my mind: Andi Tauer's L'air du Desert Marocain.

Thanks again for your podcast and hard work, it brings us all joy every week. I blind bought DS&Durga Big Sur Eucalyptus after Suzy described it and it so amazing and exactly whati was looking for (for years!) in a eucalyptus scent. Thanks, Anja’

Marks & Spencer fragrances:

We asked our Instagram followers to suggest a high street store to find some affordable fragrances in, and share our favourites. The top request by FAR was Marks & Spencer. So, we went to the Oxford Street store, and were SO impressed by the selection, layout, accessibility and thoughtfulness that’s gone in to the design - not only of the scents, but the space they’re displayed in.

Not only was the layout chic and welcoming, the shelves were well-stocked with blotters and testers, making it a truly inviting place to go and explore perfumes (both M&S own-brand ones, and a great curation of other brands).

First up, we sniffed the Summer Limited Edition duo (which we’d already promised to test for you a couple of episodes ago):

Suzy’s favourite:

Marshmallow Delight £12 for 100ml eau de parfum

‘Indulge in a scent that feels soft, sweet and irresistibly playful with this Marshmallow Delight eau de toilette from our Discover range. Juicy raspberry brings a bright opening, melting into fluffy marshmallow and smooth cream for a comforting, dessert-like finish.’

Nicola’s favourite:

Solar Fleur £12 for 100ml eau de parfum

‘Capture the warmth of sunlit skin with this radiant eau de toilette from our Discover range. A bright burst of mandarin opens the scent, softened by delicate jasmine and wrapped in the creamy sweetness of coconut milk. The result is a smooth, glowing fragrance that feels effortless and uplifting.’

Then we made a beeline for the brand new M&S Studio Fragrance collection - and were both completely blown away! The quality is apparent the second you pick up the bottles: stylishly pared back they feel satisfyingly weighty with good quality lids, and even the labels are slightly recessed - a very luxe touch, all for £22.50 per 100ml eau de perfume. And the SCENTS! Oh my. So many great ones to choose from (shall we do a whole series?) but we chose…

Suzy’s favourites:

M&S Studio Amber Crème

‘This Amber Crème eau de parfum is a refined and evocative choice. Sensual amber and rich vanilla combine with notes of rum, patchouli and crème anglaise to create a lavish, indulgent scent.

Top note: Brown Sugar Middle note: Tonka Base note: Amber’

M&S Studio Ginger Flower

‘Enjoy a fresh and contemporary scent with the Ginger Flower eau de parfum. The heart of the fragrance combines lively ginger with sweet citrus and orange blossom for an uplifting accord. Sensual white musk and blond woods create a warm, grounded finish.

Top note: Ginger Middle note: Orange blossom Base note: White musk’

Nicola’s favourites:

Darkest Vanilla

‘Enjoy a rich and velvety accord with the Darkest Vanilla eau de parfum. The sensual vanilla heart is complemented by warm amber, luscious tonka bean and dreamy patchouli. Notes of floral orchid and sweet brown sugar ensure a luxurious finish.

Top note: Vanilla bean Middle note: Tonka Base note: Amber

Sheer Musk

This Sheer Musk eau de parfum from M&S Studio is a subtly sensual choice. A heart of vegan sublimolide™ musk and ambrette absolute is complemented by floral rose and velvety orris. Cashmere and sandalwood notes create a grounded finish.

Top note: Pink pepper Middle note: Cashmere Base note: Musk

They really are knocking it out of the park at M&S - in the beauty area (our fave, obvs) but also in their fashion and accessories. So many reasons to be excited again about going in-store! We must go back to try more perfumes, though, don’t you think?

Nicola loved her Atelier Rebul mixing masterclass experience, and this is a house we want to tell you much more about (and smell our way through all their creations) in future episodes.

Meanwhile….

Suzy had the most incredible FREE half hour scented hand & arm massage at Norfolk Natural Living in their Lambs Conduit Street shop. This relaxing, unhurried ritual uses their all-natural products and ends with a bespoke fragrance discovery.

Suzy chose to finish with a layered spritz of:

Geranium & Tomato Leaf

‘Beyond the glass the garden breathes a little slower. Leaves stir with a soft whisper as the warmth begins to soften at the edges. The scent of crushed tomato vine lingers green and vivid against the rosy sweetness of geranium bloom. Neroli drifts through the shade like a pale ribbon of light while cool earth settles everything into an easy calm.

It is the sort of afternoon that asks nothing of you. Sun warming terracotta. Green stems rubbed gently between the fingers. A bright citrus breeze wandering through open windows carrying lime and eucalyptus with it. The garden smells alive and a little unruly in the loveliest way.’

(Layered with)

Rose Garden

‘The afternoon unfolds in layers of scent and light. I sit beneath the cedar tree, reading... The breeze is bright, alive, moving through the garden like thought. It brings the first shimmer of geranium leaf and Sicilian lemon, quick and green, a scent that catches the light like a silver blade. Then, the roses. They lean into the air, full and fresh, their sharp sweetness almost shocking after the citrus. The garden hums with life: petals opening, leaves trembling, sunlight deepening into gold.

This rose is no dowager; it’s an ingénue with perfect posture. Geranium keeps it clean and quick, jasmine gives it flesh, cedar lends gravity, and amber that quiet, golden hum anchors it all. The air itself seems to thrum, half floral, half mineral, alive with that peculiar English freshness that smells of rain remembered rather than falling.’

The fragrances start from £20 for 10ml and every one Suzy smelled was genuinely excellent (though we also need to go bs k here and try many more!)

Norfolk Natural Living have stores around the U.K. (as well as selling their products online:

You can enjoy the free Norfolk Natural Living hand & arm massage at selected stores (Cambridge, Southwold, Lambs Conduit St London, Woodbridge, Aldeburgh & Holt] by booking online, here:

https://tinyurl.com/Norfolk-Natural-Living-Massage

Listener Prescription:

Meira:

Hi! I’m reaching out because I’ve heard you are experts in tracking down lost or discontinued fragrances. I’ve been on a long quest to find Ananya by The Body Shop (the original 1980s/90s version).

​It holds so many memories for me, and I’ve been struggling to find it anywhere. Since it seems to be unavailable to ship to Europe, I was wondering if you could help me find it or, if not, recommend a fragrance that is a very close match in terms of scent profile (tuberose, peach, coconut, and sandalwood).

​Any guidance or tips you could provide would mean the world to me. Thank you so much for your time and help!

Suzy suggests:

Chopard Casmir

‘Casmir was launched in 1992. The nose behind this fragrance is Michel Almairac. Top notes are Peach, Coconut, Mango, Fruits and Bergamot; middle notes are Geranium, Jasmine, Floral Notes and Lily-of-the-Valley; base notes are Vanilla, Amber, Sandalwood, Musk, Patchouli and Woodsy Notes.’

Kayali Eden Sweet Peach | 35

‘Sweet, luscious, and velvety, Eden Sweet Peach | 35 Eau de Parfum is pure happiness in a bottle. On first spritz, sweet-and-tangy peach and crisp red apple create a bright, mouthwatering opening while creamy frangipani adds softness and warmth at the heart of the juice. As the fragrance dries down, comforting musk melts into the skin, leaving a tender yet addictive trail that radiates effortless joy.’

(Layered with)

Kayali Utopia Vanilla Coco | 21

‘Take a dip in your daydreams, where the clouds seem within reach and you’re blissfully floating in a glittering pool of possibilities. Creamy sandalwood and sweet white florals are topped with milky coconut, then whipped together with vanilla bourbon to evoke that sense of freedom from reality, transporting you to your perfect world, your Utopia.’

On The Scent Magazine

To purchase a print issue of the first issue of On The Scent Magazine follow this link to order yours (delivery worldwide):

https://www.onthescentmedia.com/shop

If this is your first bonus subscriber-only episode: welcome! We’ve so much more for you in store, with an extra episode every single week (even when we’re on a break from the main podcast).

Claggy, sweaty, humid weather: it’s the absolute worst for trying to get to sleep in, right? Well in this week’s extra episode, we’re discussing scents that, once sprayed, seem to instantly lower the temperature and create a cool, calming atmosphere.

Do you wear fragrances to sleep (and save some especially for hot weather), or use diffusers, essential oils, or other fragrant ways of staying cool? We’d love to hear about them!

Of course these fragrances don’t only have to be reserved for humid, sleepless nights - they can be used anytime you need to have an instant refresh or mood-re-setting moment.

Here’s what we waft when it all gets a bit much…

NEOM Super Shower Power Body Wash

‘Smells like a fresh mint tea – invigorating and energising. All the flavours that make you feel awake, and alert are blended into this incredible sensorial shower cream: pinging mint, euphoric eucalyptus, cleansing rosemary and empowering coffee. Plus, there’s creamy oat milk to add a gorgeous feeling of nourishment and care around you, charging you up for the best start to the day. - Alice du Parcq.’

NEOM Squeeze the Day Essential Oil Blend

‘Smells like freshly cut and perfectly ripe citrus fruits - juicy and uplifting. The ultimate get-up-and-go blast of sharp-sweet citrus zest, featuring the perfect balance of bitter and tart grapefruit with warm and juicy mandarin. For extra oomph, there’s a subtle ping of cooling eucalyptus that radiates through your space – the greatest of all feel-good scents. - Alice du Parcq.’

4711:

Eau de Cologne

‘One of the world's oldest and most famous authentic Eau de Cologne creations, having been produced in Cologne, Germany, since 1792. Known for its iconic blue-and-gold packaging, it is a timeless, unisex citrus-aromatic fragrance loved for its crisp, clean, and immediately refreshing profile.’

• Top Notes: Bergamot, Lemon, Orange, Peach, and Basil
• Heart Notes: Lavender and Rosemary
• Base Notes: Neroli (orange blossom) and Petitgrain

+ Eau de Cologne Tissues

+ Eau de Cologne Cool Stick

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Herba Fresca

‘A note of fresh herbs sparkling with dew and springtime flowers, energised by a bunch of spearmint leaves and connected by a green tea accord. The fragrance is enlivened by a tonic accord with the aromas of cut grass glistening with dew.’

DedCool Mineral Milk

‘Your favorite MILK scent on a seaside getaway. The familiar, skin-like musk you love, refreshed with a salty breeze and mineral sparkle. A coastal daydream, bottled.

• TOP: GOLDEN NECTAR, PASSIONFRUIT
• MIDDLE: COASTAL LAVENDER, OCEAN AIR, MARINE SALT
• BOTTOM: AMBER MILK, VIRGINIA CEDAR,AUSTRALIAN SANDALWOOD.’

Roos & Roos Globulus

‘At the top, eucalyptus globulus in two aspects: the essence of the leaves (aromatic) and the extract of the buds (fruity greens) for a lively freshness. In the heart, essence of mint (spicata mint) for a lively spicy burst of cardamom from Guatemala. The green facet is amplified by salviac (smell of sage leaves).In the background the cascalone blows a wind of aquatic freshness, like a morning dew. A crystal moss note (close to oak moss) creates a woody facet. A breeze of lively and minty freshness.’

Diptyque Lemongrass & Geranium Body Spray

‘A bright, aromatic spray infused with essential oils known to help repel mosquitoes. A limited-edition design inspired by summer water gardens.

Lemongrass, geranium and neroli create a vibrant freshness on the skin. On the bottle, geraniums come to life in a design inspired by mosaic tesserae, imagined by Mathilde Jonquière.’

HERETIC PARFUM - NOSFERATU

‘In partnership with Nosferatu and Focus Features, Heretic is proud to collaborate on a fragrance inspired by the iconic vampire. Cold, pale and pellucid, this fragrance evokes the uneasy chill of encountering an apparition. The fragrance opens with a clap of thunder and downpour of rain, strikes of lightning fill the air with petrichor and electricity. Tangled in the stones of the dark, wet heart chord you will find lilac in vivid a bouquet of cadaverous hues punctuated by inky violet absolute. This floral accord of ether conjures memories of forgotten innocence and love everlasting that give way to the peculiar delights of vegan Ambergris. Soft and velvety the ambergris dances on the skin in a nostalgic waltz that is both delicate and hedonistic. Nosferatu is only in theaters this Christmas. © 2024 Focus Features LLC.’

Norfolk Natural Living Magnesium Spray

‘Our Magnesium Sleep body spray is…

For sleep. For tension. For 3am spirals. Created by a mum who just wanted her child to rest.

I didn’t set out to launch a magnesium sleep spray — I made this because my daughter couldn’t sleep.

She wasn’t dramatic, just quietly anxious. Her little mind wouldn’t switch off. Bedtime became a knot of questions, overthinking, and restlessness. So I blended magnesium with lavender and sweet orange. A gentle, calming spray she could trust—and so could I. It helped her sleep. Properly.

And once I saw it worked for her, I started using it too—after long days, before travel, when a migraine threatened, or when my own brain refused to slow down. Now it lives in every bag and on every bedside table. Not just for sleep. For calm.

What it does

• Helps you fall—and stay—asleep Spray on feet, wrists, or chest. Breathe deeply. Sleep comes easier.
• Calms anxiety For that wired-at-bedtime feeling, or mid-day overwhelm. A few sprays help settle things down.
• Relieves muscle tension & restless legs Ideal after workouts, desk days, or long flights.
• Soothes migraines & tension headaches Apply to neck and temples at the first sign of a flare-up.
• Supports sleep during perimenopause and menopause Great for night sweats, restless sleep, and general hormonal chaos—no hormones involved.

What’s in it

• Magnesium Sulfate – Known to relax muscles, reduce anxiety, and support melatonin production.
• Lavender Essential Oil – The classic calming scent, soothing and familiar.
• Sweet Orange Essential Oil – Uplifting and comforting; balances out bedtime anxiety.
• Nothing synthetic, nothing sticky – Vegan, cruelty-free, and handmade in Norfolk.

How to use it

• For sleep: 4–6 sprays on wrists, feet, or backs of knees about 20 minutes before bed.
• For muscle tension: 8–10 sprays, massage into sore areas.
• For anxiety: Spray on palms, rub, and inhale slowly.
• For migraines or tension headaches: Apply to back of neck and temples.
• For children aged 5+: 2–3 sprays after bath or before bed.
• On-the-go: Use before travel, meetings, or school runs to take the edge off.’