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Whether you're developing your own gear or refining a favorite project, knowing how to build an accurate, repeatable, and clear pattern is an essential skill. Our guests share professional pattern-making techniques that will help you avoid common mistakes, waste less material, and spend more time sewing instead of troubleshooting.

In This Episode, We Cover:

• The most common pattern-making mistakes
• How to include seam allowances, symmetry, alignment, and the small details
• Where to start building a pattern when you have a blank slate
• The tools professionals use to develop patterns, including Illustrator, CLO 3D, and specialized pattern-making software

Guests:

• Hailey Loudin | Dan McKewen

Products:

• #5 YKK Uretek Zipper
• Challenge ULTRa TenX

Annual Sale:

• The 2026 RBTR Annual Sale starts October 26th! Everything on the site will be discounted.

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What does it take to design bags for athletes like LeBron James and Kevin Durant—and what can the rest of us learn from it? After nearly three decades designing soft goods, Hrag Nassanian joins us to share the stories, lessons, and design principles he’s learned from creating products for some of the world’s best athletes, everyday users, and everyone in between.

In This Episode, We Cover:

• The very specific featured KD wanted on his bag
• What small ergonomic details immediately tell Hrag whether a bag was designed well
• Why originality shouldn't be your goal
• What changes when you go from making one bag to manufacturing thousands

Listen in for years of design knowledge and a look at how the lessons learned designing products at the highest level can make all of us better makers.

Guest: Hrag Nassanian | LinkedIN, Wayfinder

New Products: Zipper, Challenge ULTRA TenX

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What do names like Venom™, MONOLITE™, and HyperD™, actually tell you about a fabric? We sit down with Carter and Matt to unpack the stories, materials, and decisions behind RBTR’s signature fabric lines, so you can better understand what you’re buying and choose the right material for your next project.

In This Episode, We Cover:

• The stories behind some of RBTR’s strangest product names, discontinued favorites, and the decisions that shaped the fabrics makers use today
• What actually defines the characteristics that connect the fabrics within each line
• The yarns, weaves, coatings, and fibers behind these materials
• How to decide when a more specialized or expensive material is actually worth it

Listen in for the product knowledge we usually take for granted, and leave with a better understanding of what these fabrics are, why they exist, and where they belong in your next project.

Matt Evans | Red Paw Packs

RBTR Fabric Glossary

New Products

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You can sew with a fabric for years and still be surprised by how much you don’t know about it. Ryan and Matt are back for a fabric quiz that digs into the specs, terminology, and secrets, while uncovering some surprisingly useful things to consider when choosing materials for your next project.

In This Episode, We Cover:

• A surprisingly difficult fabric quiz covering everything from hydrostatic head and solution dyeing to UHMWPE blends, fabric weights, and warp vs. weft
• Why some of the specs we obsess over may matter less in the real world than we think
• The fabric application triad and the tradeoffs between price, weight, and durability when choosing materials for a project
• A head-to-head backpack fabric draft where every point earned in the quiz becomes buying power for main, accent, stretch, and liner fabrics

Play along, keep track of your score, and see if your fabric knowledge can beat Ryan and Matt.

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Repairing gear requires a different mindset than making it from scratch. But one of the greatest benefits of sewing skills is being able to get more out of the things you already have. Our guest breaks down how to confidently tear into finished gear, diagnose what actually failed, and make repairs that can keep your favorite equipment going for years.

Here's what we cover:

• What you need to look for before grabbing the seam ripper
• Why sometimes the best repair starts by seam ripping something that isn't broken
• The repair-specific tools and tricks worth adding to your sewing kit
• What years of repairing failed gear can teach us about better design
• How repair can make you a better gear designer

Whether you do this for environmental reasons or to have fun, gear repair has some tangible benefits to makers of every skill level.

Guest:

Maddy Hem from Black Bear Gear Repair

New Products:

X-Pac®UX20ST

1.8 oz Venom™ Ripstop Hybrid Nylon 6.6

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Technical fabrics are changing fast, but what’s actually driving the next generation of materials? We sit down with Taylor and Yann from X-Pac® to go behind the laminate and talk hyperTEC, UHMWPE, sustainability, and where performance fabrics are headed next.

In This Episode, We Cover:

• Why the industry is shifting back toward high-performance materials—and what that means for the fabrics makers will see next
• What makes the new hyperTEC line different, including 100% UHMWPE face fabrics, UHMWPE X-Ply®, and the development behind them
• The surprising truth about “recycled” fabrics, including why two materials carrying the same certification can contain drastically different amounts of recycled fiber
• What makers misunderstand about laminates, delamination, and the decades of development happening behind fabrics that might look deceptively simple

Listen in and get a rare look behind the materials you’re cutting, sewing, and building with every day.

Products: VX21OE, UX10, X11 | Shop All X-Pac®

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Many of us don't make it to the sewing machine until 8 or 9 p.m., after a full day of work. By then, it's hard to think like a product developer (and even harder to stay creative). Marc Shatalow joins us to share how he balances a full-time job with a growing bag brand, along with the design process, production habits, and mindset that help him keep creating without burning out.

In This Episode, We Cover:

• How to balance a 9-to-5 with a bag company—and why small, consistent progress beats marathon sewing sessions
• Marc's workflow for designing new bags, from paper models and 3D CAD to finished prototypes
• Production habits, lean manufacturing ideas, and shop tweaks that save time without sacrificing creativity
• Honest conversations about pricing handmade work, building products people value, and why following your curiosity often leads to your best designs

Listen in and discover why building a successful maker business isn't about finding more hours, it's about optimizing the time you do have.

Marc Schatalow | Mrs. Marc Bags

Products:

• Venom™ 200 HPU Tan
• Merino Wool Jersey Knit

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Great products don't happen by accident. They happen because someone obsesses over hundreds of tiny decisions that most never notice. In this episode, Jenna Lagonigro pulls back the curtain on how professional products go from sketchbook to production line, sharing the design principles, development process, and tech pack secrets that every maker can apply to their own projects.

In This Episode, We Cover:

• How to build your first tech pack
• Why empathy is the best skill for product designers
• What professional product developers do to choose fabrics
• Behind-the-scenes insights from overseas factories and sample rooms

Listen in and start thinking like a product developer. The way you approach your next project may never be the same.

Guest:

• Jenna Lagonigro
• Product Developer at: Moment and Long Weekend

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Most people see a finished backpack as the end of a project. Today's guest sees it as the beginning. Kenn Walker is a modification expert, known for taking a scalpel to the seams of $400 backpacks and making them even better than before.

From his background in parachute rigging to turning a World Cup soccer ball into a bag, Kenn brings the kind of creativity and problem-solving that every maker can learn from.

In This Episode, We Cover:

• Which techniques Kenn uses to confidently seam rip and modify finished bags
• The one tool Kenn cannot live without
• How he turned custom modifications into a thriving business
• What parachute rigging taught him about sewing, load paths, and building gear that lasts
• Kenn's favorite shop hacks, machines, and workflow for tackling one-of-a-kind projects

Kenn Walker is a Custom/Modification Designer | Instagram | Website

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What happens when a blacksmith becomes obsessed with making backpacks? In this episode, Ethan Goss of Goss Handmade shares the unconventional ideas, hard-earned lessons, and creative rabbit holes that have shaped his approach to designing packs that blend heritage aesthetics with modern performance.

In This Episode, We Cover:

• Why some vintage backpack designs still outperform modern alternatives—and which features deserve a comeback
• Ethan's surprisingly effective wood frame stays and what they taught him about comfort, durability, and pack design
• The anatomy of a great shoulder strap, from foam selection and fit to the small details that make packs more comfortable under load
• How classes, community, and studying other makers can dramatically accelerate your growth as a gear maker

Listen in and lend a few ideas from Ethan's playbook. You might just find your next rabbit hole.

Guest: Ethan Goss from Goss Handmade (Instagram, Website)

Shop the latest fabrics and materials here.

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Most sewing machine problems don’t start with catastrophic failure—they start with the small maintenance habits makers ignore for too long. In this episode, Matt Evans joins us to break down the practical upkeep, adjustments, and troubleshooting skills every DIYer should know to keep their machines running smoothly and sewing clean.

In This Episode, We Cover:

• The maintenance habits that actually matter
• How to diagnose common sewing issues like skipped stitches, poor tension, and fabric feeding problems
• The simple machine adjustments makers should feel comfortable making themselves
• DIY tools, cheap shop hacks, and unexpected hardware store finds that can make patterning, cutting, and machine upkeep easier

Custom UL Hiking Gear for Dogs and Humans - Red Paw Packs

Guest: Matt Evans, Red Paw Packs

Shop the latest fabrics and materials here.

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Most of us like the idea of American-made production, but very few of us understand the complexity (or the role DIY makers can play in rebuilding it). This conversation explores what it actually takes to build sewn products sustainably in America without losing sight of the people behind the products.

The Carolina Textile District helps businesses (big and small) create amazing products here in the US through educational courses, businesses connections, and operational support.

Sewn Goods 101 Course

Industrial Sewing Program

isp@theindustrialcommons.org

Shop the latest fabrics and materials here.

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Any project is a serious undertaking—but sewing everything for your thru-hike is next level. That’s exactly what Eliza did for the CDT. She breaks down what it actually takes to design, sew, and trust a full 15-piece kit when failure isn’t really an option.

In this episode:

• Where to start when you want to make something big
• Why the failed prototype helped in the long run
• How Eliza approached fabric selection
• What she did this project for

Listen in to get inspired and see where your next build can take you.

Guest:

• Eliza Sweeney

Shop the latest fabrics and materials here.

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The line between professional gear and great DIY gear is hard to define. Instead of guessing, we brought in a pro. A product developer with Patagonia and Yeti experience breaks down what actually matters and what makers can learn from the big companies.

In This Episode, We Cover:

• The real difference between product design and product development—and why it matters for makers / cottage companies
• How big companies turn rough ideas into finished products (and what you can steal from that process)
• Simple ways to define your project upfront so you don’t get stuck, overbuild, or lose direction
• How to handle feedback, check your ego, and iterate like a pro without burning out your creativity

Listen in and start building with more clarity, confidence, and intention before you even sit down at the machine.

Guest: Kyle Rogers - Project Waterloo, LinkedIn

Shop the latest fabrics and materials here.

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Stop rushing your photos and start making your gear look as good as it actually is. Cinematographer and maker Chris Ellison breaks down how to think about composition, environment, and presentation so your projects hit differently the moment people see them.

In This Episode, We Cover:

• Why most maker photos fall flat—and the simple shift that instantly improves them
• How to use environment, framing, and depth to make your gear the clear focal point
• Practical tricks like stuffing, shaping, and staging your bags so they photograph clean and intentional
• How real-world use, travel, and feedback loops shape better design (and better visuals) over time

Listen in and start taking photos (and making gear) that actually do your work justice.

Explore Ellison Handmade:

• Website
• Instagram

Shop our latest products here

• X-Pac®

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Not every upgrade happens at the sewing machine. If you’ve ever felt stuck, burned out, or unsure why your work isn’t improving, this episode breaks down the mindset shifts that actually move you forward.

Filip Raboch joins us to share what he’s learned building custom gear at a high level. Listen so you can avoid the common traps and start making smarter, more intentional decisions in your own process.

• Why identifying a specific use is most important
• How to say no and why you have to
• The hidden reality of being a custom gear maker for a living

Guest:

Filip Raboch Custom Gear

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Foam might not be the flashiest material in gear making, but it’s responsible for some of the biggest performance upgrades in your packs and bags. In this episode, we break down how experienced makers actually use foam. Covering real techniques, hard-earned lessons, and the small tricks that make projects come out better.

In This Episode, We Cover:

• When and why to add foam to a project—from shoulder straps and back panels to laptop sleeves and structured bags
• How thickness, density, and foam type change comfort, structure, and sewability in real builds
• Practical techniques for cutting, shaping, ventilating, and installing foam cleanly in your projects
• Maker-tested tips for working with foam on home machines, avoiding common mistakes, and getting better results the first time

If you’ve ever struggled with straps, structure, or padding in your projects, this episode will change the way you do your next build.

Guests:

• Ryan Campbell from the Wandering Goat
• Matt Evans from Red Paw Packs

Products:

• New X-Pac® Fabrics
• New Challenge ULTRA 200X Colors
• XLPE Foam

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If you're still using the closest scissors to your machine - you need this episode. We sit down with Kai Scissors for a deep, no-fluff breakdown of what serious makers actually need to know about cutting tools. From steel and geometry to maintenance habits that pros swear by.

Listen to the episode to get a 20% off discount for ROTR listeners.

In This Episode, We Cover:

• Why premium scissors will radicalize your cutting experience
• How to choose the right size, style, or serration for technical fabrics, tight work, or heavy-duty materials
• The secret maintenance tips you won't find on reddit
• When rotary cutters, specialty blades, or niche tools outperform traditional scissors

🛒 Shop Kai Scissors and all of our newest products

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Ever wonder what actually happens before a fabric hits the shop? In this episode, we sit down with RBTR's own Carter Holland to pull back the curtain on product decisions, failures, tradeoffs, and future releases you won’t hear about anywhere else.

• How fabric ideas really get approved or quietly killed before they ever reach your sewing table
• What goes wrong during development and testing and why some “almost launched” materials never see the light of day
• The unspoken constraints of cost, MOQ, timing, and quality that shape every product we release
• Early insight into upcoming fabrics and categories that will define what makers are building next

🛒 Shop all of our newest products

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Traditional tailoring might seem worlds away from technical gear—but the principles are the same. In this episode, Alasdair Leighton-Crawford of Cimoro shares how skills learned on Savile Row translate directly into better-fitting apparel, smarter pack design, and more intentional making.

We talk about:

• Why tailoring is one of the fastest ways to truly understand fit
• How athletic thinking and craft obsession shape better gear
• What most makers overlook when designing packs and apparel
• Balancing bespoke work, scalability, and running a small business
• Why making by hand still matters in an age of automation and AI

Cimoro

🛒 Shop all of our newest products

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