The Business Of Modelling

In this episode of The Business of Modelling, Tessa Dewing is joined by Marcus Flemmings, founder of The Diversity Agency and Allied Artists, to talk about representation, talent development, storytelling and the changing shape of the creative industries.

Marcus has built a career that spans talent representation, photography, writing, directing and producing, giving him a perspective on the industry from both sides of the camera. He talks about his route into the creative world, the challenges he faced early in his career and the point at which he realised he wanted to do more than work within existing structures. He wanted to create opportunities too.

That thinking led him to establish BAME Models, which later evolved into The Diversity Agency. Marcus reflects on what he felt was missing from the modelling industry at the time, how conversations around diversity and representation have developed since then, and whether the industry has made the progress it sometimes claims to have made.

Tessa and Marcus explore what genuine representation means beyond casting people from different backgrounds. They discuss the difference between meaningful inclusion and diversity that can feel performative, and whether brands and creative teams fully understand why authentic representation matters.

The conversation also looks closely at what makes a successful model or performer. Marcus explains why appearance is only one part of the equation and why attitude, ambition, professionalism and mindset can have such a significant impact on a career. They discuss some of the misconceptions young talent can have when entering the industry and why understanding the business behind modelling is just as important as understanding what happens in front of the camera.

For talent from underrepresented backgrounds, seeing people with similar experiences succeeding within an industry can make a huge difference. Marcus shares his thoughts on what he would say to someone considering a creative career who does not yet see many people like themselves represented, as well as the role agencies can play in developing, educating and supporting talent over the long term.

Marcus’s work as a filmmaker brings another dimension to the conversation. Tessa asks how his experience in film and storytelling has influenced the way he approaches modelling and representation, and whether fashion and advertising have a wider responsibility when it comes to the stories they choose to tell.

They explore what makes a campaign feel genuinely inclusive rather than inclusion being treated as a box to tick, and consider which people, communities and experiences may still be missing from mainstream fashion, advertising, film and media.

The episode also looks at how much the definition of a “model” has changed. Models are increasingly working across different areas of the creative industries, while actors, creators, personalities and influencers are building careers that no longer fit neatly into traditional categories.

Marcus discusses the relationship between The Diversity Agency and Allied Artists, his actors’ agency, and whether modelling and acting should still be viewed as completely separate disciplines. They also look at how social media has changed the balance of power between talent, agencies and brands by allowing individuals to build their own audiences, platforms and opportunities.

With those changes come new expectations. Tessa and Marcus discuss whether the next generation of models will need a broader range of skills than previous generations, what opportunities exist today that were not available when Marcus first entered the industry, and how agencies may need to adapt as careers become more fluid.

AI also enters the conversation as it becomes an increasingly important subject across modelling, film, advertising and the wider creative world. Marcus shares his perspective on what agencies and talent should be thinking about as the technology develops, particularly as the industry starts to consider how human creativity, representation and new technology will sit alongside one another.

Looking ahead, Marcus considers what still needs to change when it comes to representation and access across the creative industries. He talks about what excites him about the future of modelling, film and storytelling, as well as the kind of impact he hopes his own work will leave behind.

American actress and Act Bold founder Anne Alexander-Sieder joins us to talk about rebuilding an acting career, understanding what makes someone genuinely bookable and taking a more active role in creating opportunities.

Anne reflects on returning to acting later in life and the steps she took to relaunch her career with a different mindset. From seeking out better training and creating her own material to looking more closely at positioning, visibility and industry relationships.

She shares the thinking behind Act Bold and introduces her SICK Factor framework, covering Skills, Industry Proof, Connections and Knowledge. Anne explains why talent alone is not enough, and why it’s important that actors need to be clear about how they present themselves, where they want their career to go and whether their materials support that direction.

The episode is ultimately about taking greater ownership of your career. Anne talks about moving away from simply waiting for the next opportunity and instead making deliberate choices, building meaningful connections and creating momentum for yourself.

https://www.businessofmodelling.co.uk/

https://www.act-bold.com/anne-alexander-sieder

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Greek fashion designer Vassilios Kostetsos joins us to reflect on a career shaped by creativity, Greek culture and some of the most memorable names from the golden age of the supermodels.

Vassilios’ interest in fashion began as a child in his mother’s boutique in Athens, where he discovered Vogue, fabrics and colour. By the age of 10 he was creating clothes for dolls and staging miniature fashion shows, before going on to produce his own collections and open his first boutique.

He talks about his determination to bring the scale and excitement of the international runways to Greece, drawing inspiration from ancient Greek sculpture, vases, frescoes and mythology while always interpreting them in a modern way. His career would later take his collections to London, Düsseldorf, India and New York.

Vassilios also takes us inside the extraordinary supermodel era, recalling working with Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer, Kate Moss and many more. He shares what it was like to bring some of the world’s biggest models to Athens and to witness the moment when leading models became international superstars.

Above all, it is an important reminder that tax and finances should not be something models and actors only think about when there is a problem. Building good financial habits from the beginning can make managing a freelance career considerably clearer and less daunting.

https://www.businessofmodelling.co.uk/

https://www.kostetsos.com/

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For models and actors, understanding the financial side of a freelance career is just as important as understanding castings, bookings and contracts. In this episode, Robert Green and Ben Price from Green & Peter Accountants break down the areas of tax and accounting that talent often find confusing and explain why getting organised early can prevent much bigger problems later on.

The conversation starts with the basics of being self-employed as a model or actor, including when you may need to register with HMRC, completing a Self-Assessment tax return and keeping accurate records of income and expenses. Robert and Ben also address some of the misconceptions that can leave people unsure of their responsibilities or putting off dealing with their tax altogether.

They look closely at allowable expenses for models and actors, explaining why not everything spent on a career can automatically be claimed against tax. From agency commission and professional costs to expenses that may also have personal use, they discuss the importance of understanding what should be recorded and seeking advice when the position is unclear.

As a modelling career develops, finances can quickly become more complicated. Robert and Ben explore earning through several agencies, combining self-employed and PAYE income, VAT, sole trader and limited company structures, and the additional considerations that can arise when models work internationally and earn money in different countries.

The episode also looks beyond the next tax return. From putting money aside when fees are paid to preparing for quieter periods and thinking about longer-term financial planning, Robert and Ben explain why models and talent should treat their career as a business and take an active role in understanding the money they earn.

Above all, it is an important reminder that tax and finances should not be something models and actors only think about when there is a problem. Building good financial habits from the beginning can make managing a freelance career considerably clearer and less daunting.

www.businessofmodelling.co.uk

www.greenandpeter.co.uk

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Xenia Kontou joins us to discuss her journey through the modelling industry, from beginning as a model at 17 to moving behind the scenes and building her career as a scout, booker, manager and mother agent.

She explains why modelling was not the right path for her personally, but how the experience helped lead her towards the agency side of the industry. Xenia reflects on the different skills required to recognise potential, develop new faces and represent models professionally to clients.

The conversation explores the founding of Agencia Model Management in Athens and the realities of launching a model agency during Greece’s economic crisis. Xenia talks about the importance of understanding the market in which you work, rather than relying only on international trends, and why successful scouting requires knowledge of local clients, photographers and casting preferences.

Xenia also shares her approach to developing Greek models for international careers. She explains the role of a mother agency, the importance of choosing the right markets for each individual and why models benefit from building interests, education and experience outside the modelling industry.

She offers an honest view of the agent–model relationship, describing the many supportive roles an agent can play while emphasising the need for clear professional boundaries. Xenia also discusses fair rates, protecting where a model’s image is used and why accepting unpaid or underpaid work can affect the value of the wider modelling industry.

https://www.businessofmodelling.co.uk/

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Erwan Moreau joins us to discuss his journey through the modelling industry, from being introduced to the business through his family's restaurant in Barcelona and working as a model with Traffic to becoming Senior Agent at View Management.

Drawing on his own experience as a model, Erwan explains how the job helped him understand the pressure, uncertainty and emotional highs and lows models can face. He reflects on why empathy matters in agency work and why the relationship between a model and their agency should be a genuine partnership.

Erwan also talks about what model scouts look for when searching for new faces. From scouting through crowds at Barcelona music festivals including Primavera Sound and Sónar to recognising the rare “wow moment” when someone immediately stands out, he explains why successful modelling requires much more than simply being attractive.

The conversation explores the rise of Spanish male models, the strength of Barcelona as a modelling market and the importance of travelling and gaining experience in different countries when building an international career.

Erwan also offers an honest view of the difference between a model booker and a model agent. He talks about developing careers, making decisions alongside models, supporting their wellbeing and remembering that the agency works for the people it represents.

https://www.businessofmodelling.co.uk/

www.viewmanagement.com

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Marisol Ochoa joins us to share her career behind the scenes of the modelling industry and her work as Head Booker and Scout at Miah Management in Barcelona. In this episode, she reflects on finding her way into model management, learning the business from the ground up, and the people who helped shape the way she works today.

She talks about what it really takes to recognise potential, explaining the difference between someone beautiful and someone who can build a career as a model. Marisol also shares the responsibility that comes with representing people in such a competitive industry, particularly when models are young and facing regular rejection.

The conversation explores Marisol’s role in helping to create more opportunities for curve models in Spain and how the market has gradually become more open to different sizes, backgrounds and forms of beauty. She discusses the need to move away from unnecessary labels, the importance of clients reflecting real people and why there is still more progress to be made.

Marisol also offers an honest look at the relationship between models and their agents, from building trust and confidence to supporting wellbeing and making careful decisions about the direction of a career.

https://www.businessofmodelling.co.uk/

https://www.miahmanagement.com/

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Marouso Tzaneti joins us to share her journey from being discovered in Greece at 16 years old to building an international modelling career. In this episode, she reflects on her first steps into the industry, adapting to different markets and the experiences that have shaped her both personally and professionally.

She talks about navigating the reality of life as a model, from the excitement of new opportunities to the challenges that come with building a long-term career. Marouso also discusses balancing modelling alongside studying chemistry and the importance of education.

This conversation also explores the changing role of social media in modelling, the pressure to build a personal brand, and why authenticity and personality are becoming increasingly important alongside the image. Marouso shares her advice for young models starting out, the importance of patience and resilience, and why having a wider perspective is so valuable in an unpredictable industry.

A conversation about the person behind the images, the realities of international modelling and what it takes to build a career that lasts.

https://www.businessofmodelling.co.uk/

https://agencia.gr/

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Ellen Burton is an international beauty and fashion model whose career has taken her across major markets including Milan, Paris, LA and Australia. In this episode, she reflects on starting out as a teenager in Norfolk, the early experiences that helped build her confidence, and how a dramatic haircut became a turning point in her career.

She talks about being introduced to top photographer Rankin, shooting for Hunger magazine, working on a Prada story, and how those opportunities helped open doors internationally. Ellen also discusses the different sides of modelling, including beauty, editorial and commercial work, and what it takes to adapt across markets, clients and creative teams.

This conversation also touches on what she believes makes a good model, why ego has to be left at the door, the importance of trusting your agent, and how the industry continues to change with social media, longer model careers and the growing conversation around AI.

https://www.businessofmodelling.co.uk/

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Dean Cleary Patterson is the founder of D1 Model Management, an agency that he launched in London in 2006 after working across in the industry in Glasgow, Miami, Paris and London. In this episode, he reflects on how his early love of fashion, his first agency roles and his time working with major agencies shaped the way he came to understand models, clients and business behind the industry.

He talks about creating D1 with a clear identity, backing models who did not always fit the obvious mould and developing an eye for talent that was with instinct and market understanding. Dean also discusses diversity and representation in fashion, the changing role of casting directors, expanding D1 Model Management into New York and Los Angeles, and the responsibility agencies have when developing and supporting models.

This conversation also touches on what he believes makes a model stand out and why respect, relationships and proper management are so important in this industry.

https://www.businessofmodelling.co.uk/

https://www.d1models.com/

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Antony Fitzgerald is a classic model and the founder of New Silver Generation, a community he created to champion older models and talent, particularly older people of colour. In this episode, he reflects on coming into modelling at 50 years old, after earlier careers in PR and teaching and he speaks about his view of how the industry was shaped by his father and sister who had both modelled before him.

He talks about the lack of visibility he noticed when he first started for older models of colour who did not fit a narrow commercial stereotype. Antony explains why New Silver Generation was created, not as an agency, but as a space to be seen in a more individual and expressive way.

This conversation also looks at how older models are often boxed into limited roles, and why age should not be treated as a restriction in casting. Antony speaks about confidence, personal style, personality and life experience, and challenges the assumption that older talent should only be shown in quiet, grey or “grandparent” roles. He also discusses the importance of international visibility, how working in different markets helped shift how he was seen, and what agencies, brands and clients may be missing when they fail to look beyond age, statistics or stereotypes.

https://www.businessofmodelling.co.uk/

https://www.newsilvergeneration.co.uk/

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Ines Celine Le Gousse is a model and journalist who writes about her realities of the modelling and fashion industry. In this episode, she reflects on her own experience as a model, from being scouted in London to working across Paris, Milan, Athens and London, and speaks honestly about what the job can involve beyond the image people often see from the outside.

She talks through the pressures that can come with high fashion modelling, particularly around body standards, sample sizes and the lack of control models can feel when so much depends on being chosen. Ines also discusses the contrast between the public perception of modelling and the reality of the work, including the long hours, constant judgement and the impact this can have on confidence, health and self-image.

Alongside this, Ines speaks about her move into journalism and why writing has become an important way for her to examine the industry with more distance and honesty. She reflects on the importance of education, support systems and having something outside modelling that gives models a sense of identity and worth beyond appearance. The conversation also looks at what still needs to change, the role agencies can play in supporting talent, and why models should be treated as people first, not just as part of the final image.

https://www.businessofmodelling.co.uk/

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Jody Furlong is the founder of The Eye Casting, working across fashion, advertising and commercial campaigns, with a focus on casting that feels current and grounded in relatable people. In this episode, he reflects on how he built his career in casting - from early work in the industry to establishing an agency and developing a clear approach to finding the right talent for each brief.

He talks through what casting involves day to day, from interpreting briefs to managing clients’ expectations, and explains why understanding what a brand is really asking for is often more important than what is written down. He also shares the realities behind casting decisions, the challenges that can come with unclear direction, and the importance of communication, organisation and experience in delivering a job properly.

Alongside this, Jody discusses how the industry has evolved over time, including the shift towards more inclusive and real people casting, changes in how briefs are written, and the growing need to balance creative ideas with what is achievable in practice. He reflects on working closely with agents and production teams, the pressures of delivering at pace, and why getting the right fit remains central to any successful campaign.

https://www.businessofmodelling.co.uk/

https://www.theeyecasting.co.uk/

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Freddie Abrahams and Daisy Pettinger have both built long-term careers in modelling, working across fashion, lifestyle and commercial campaigns in the UK and internationally. In this episode, they reflect on how they each entered the industry through very different routes, what it took to build careers that lasted, and how the realities of modelling changed once it became their full-time work.

They speak openly about rejection, confidence and the difficulty of separating personal feelings from professional outcomes in an industry where appearance is so closely tied to opportunity. They also talk about the pressure of freelance life, the unpredictability of the work, and how important availability, resilience and professionalism can be in sustaining a career over time.

Alongside this, Freddie and Daisy discuss what it is like to work together as a couple, how the industry has changed since they first started, and how becoming parents has shifted the way they think about work. They reflect on balancing family life with the demands of modelling, the benefits and challenges of both working freelance, and how their priorities have evolved as they have got older.

https://www.businessofmodelling.co.uk/

www.sandrareynolds.co.uk/model/freddie-abrahams

www.sandrareynolds.co.uk/model/daisy-pettinger

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Dan Kennedy is a celebrity portrait photographer working across advertising and editorial, with a portfolio that includes some of the most recognisable names in the world from Keira Knightly and Angelina Jolie to David Beckham and Gordon Ramsay. His career has developed from early press photography through to high-profile portrait work, giving him a broad understanding of both the technical and practical side of the industry.

In this episode, he speaks about the reality of working as a photographer, from navigating freelance life and building relationships to managing shoots with high-profile talent under tight timeframes. He explains how much of the role sits beyond taking the picture, with preparation, organisation and problem-solving playing a central part in delivering a successful shoot.

He also shares how the industry has evolved, with faster turnaround times, increasing demand for content and the growing importance of behind-the-scenes visibility. As expectations continue to shift, he highlights the need to stay adaptable, maintain consistency and continue developing both creatively and commercially over time.

https://www.businessofmodelling.co.uk/

https://www.danielkennedy.com/

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Natalia Littman is an agent and producer at Icon London, working across photography, production and creative representation. With experience on both the agency and production side, she brings a clear understanding of how creative work is developed, managed and delivered from initial brief through to final output.

In this episode, she speaks about the realities of working behind the scenes in the industry, from representing photographers and building their portfolios to managing clients, budgets and production on set. She explains how much of the role is built on relationships, consistency and understanding how to position talent in the right way.

She also shares how the industry has evolved, with increased competition, higher budgets and the impact of social media changing how creatives are discovered and presented. With more people entering the space, she highlights the importance of clarity, editing and knowing how to present your work effectively.

https://www.businessofmodelling.co.uk/

https://www.icon-london.com/

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Lauren Gregory is the founder of Crumb Agency, a London-based casting and talent agency representing people across fashion, editorial and creative projects. Her work focuses on casting individuals with personality, perspective and cultural relevance, moving away from traditional model boards and towards a more human-led approach. In this episode, she talks about her journey through the industry, from modelling and working in music to building businesses in hospitality, before returning to the creative world to launch Crumb, and how those experiences shaped the way she approaches casting today.

She explains why she chose to build an agency around “humans” rather than traditional models, and how that reflects a wider shift in what brands are looking for. As casting evolves, there is a growing focus on individuality, lived experience and authenticity, with clients placing more value on people who feel real and culturally connected. She also discusses how casting has changed in practice, from the rise of self-tapes to the importance of personality and connection on set, and why genuine interaction often leads to stronger creative outcomes.

Alongside this, Lauren shares her perspective on the role of AI within the industry, recognising its impact while reinforcing the importance of human connection, instinct and conversation in creative work. She also offers insight into building an agency with a different perspective, the challenges of doing things outside of traditional structures, and why staying clear on your values is key when navigating an industry that continues to evolve.

https://www.businessofmodelling.co.uk/

https://www.crumbagency.com/

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Danni Bramall is a brand and e-commerce strategist who works with businesses to strengthen how they present themselves, trade online and connect with their customers. Her work sits across brand, content and digital commerce, with a focus on making sure creative output is aligned with commercial performance.

In this episode, Danni talks about how e-commerce has become central not only to sales, but also to how modelling work is created and delivered. With the shift from traditional retail to digital platforms, brands now rely on a constant stream of content, placing increased demand on shoots, casting and production.

She explains how models play a key role in this environment, not just in wearing the product, but in bringing it to life, creating connection and helping drive conversion. From movement and expression to storytelling and relatability, she highlights why the human element remains essential within e-commerce.

Alongside this, she discusses the increasing pressure on brands to produce more content with tighter budgets, and how this is influencing decisions around casting, production and the use of technology. She reflects on the rise of AI within e-commerce, where it can support efficiency, but also where it risks reducing opportunities and removing the human connection that makes content effective.

She also shares her perspective on how the industry may evolve, suggesting a shift where AI is used at scale, while real models become more valuable for campaigns, storytelling and higher quality content.

https://www.businessofmodelling.co.uk/

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Marie Owen, founder and CEO of LS Productions, a Scotland-based production company working across advertising, film and content. She has built the business into one of the UK’s leading production companies, delivering campaigns both nationally and internationally.

In this episode, Marie talks about how LS Productions was built, starting without all the answers and learning through hands-on experience across as the business grew. She shares the realities of working in production, including the level of organisation required, the pace of the industry and the responsibility of managing complex shoots with multiple moving parts.

Marie reflects on working closely with agencies, brands and talent, and explains the role production plays in delivering a campaign from concept through to shoot. She discusses the importance of clear communication, strong relationships and practical decision-making, particularly when working under pressure and tight timelines on live productions.

Alongside this, she speaks about leadership and building a team, highlighting how a successful production company relies on the people within it rather than any one individual. She also touches on knowing when to say no, protecting standards and maintaining a strong culture as the business grows.

https://www.businessofmodelling.co.uk/

https://www.lsproductions.com/

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Lili Johnson and Melissa McConnachie are fashion models represented by Colours Model Agency in Glasgow who began their careers in Scotland before moving into international fashion markets. Both were scouted at a young age and gradually built their experience working across editorial, e-commerce and fashion weeks, gaining experience with a wide range of designers and brands.

In this episode, they talk about the early stages of their careers and the realities of starting out in fashion, including the first nerves on shoots and the pressure of being part of castings and shows. They reflect on how their work has developed over time, working with brands such as Zara, Simone Rocha, JW Anderson, Ted Baker, Selfridges and Burberry.

Lili and Melissa discuss the role their mother agency Colours has played in supporting their careers, explaining how guidance from agents and having a strong relationship with them is so essential. They share an honest insight about rejection, confidence and the importance of patience whilst modelling.

Alongside this, they reflect on the friendships that form between models and the importance of having a supportive network in an industry that can often feel fast-paced and unpredictable. Their conversation highlights how modelling careers are rarely linear, and how resilience, perspective and trust in the process are essential for building a sustainable career in fashion.

https://www.businessofmodelling.co.uk/

https://www.coloursagency.com/

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