The Struggle Climbing Show

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber.

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

Support the Show on Patreon
Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more.
https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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Coach Louis Parkinson and psychotherapist Joel Robertson team up to explore:

• Why beginner climbers are often happier than experienced climbers
• The three main sources of enjoyment as climbers
• A “humanistic” approach to climbing
• Benefits of neutral self talk (rather than positive or negative)
• How to be an effective self-coach
• A magic word we can say to ourselves that will change our climbing in a huge way
• Arriving at the moment ready to send
• How to climb our hardest year after year (forever) if we want

Grab a copy of Get a Grip at your local bookstore, or find it on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/1839813040?lv=shuf&channelId=500&plpRedirect=mhFallback

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com
• Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals athttps://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dealspodcasthttp://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

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Shoutout to Kent Olmstead, Michael Martin, and Sam Hancock for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Self Worth After Success

00:26 Show Intro And Book Setup

01:51 Why Get A Grip Matters

05:33 Meet The Co Authors

05:59 Joel Origin Story

08:47 Coaching Meets Therapy

10:08 How The Book Began

12:57 Climbing And Fragile Worth

15:38 Why Climbing Triggers Ego

18:23 Three Joy Sources In Climbing

21:51 Sponsor Break

24:47 Humanistic Worth Explained

28:42 Erin And Family Expectations

31:38 Staying On I Am Enough

32:28 Grades And Status

34:00 Power We Give Away

37:57 Comparison Book Analogy

42:05 Neutral Self Talk

48:12 Yet And So Far

52:24 Language Shapes Training

54:40 Intentional Climber Plug

57:47 Expectations And Conditions

01:02:27 Pressure When It Matters

01:07:07 Disappointment Without Identity

01:09:06 Healthy Ambition Reframed

01:11:00 Motivation After Your Peak

01:14:58 Flow Fulfillment Purpose

01:17:23 Change Mindset For Aging

01:19:11 Mortality Regret Acceptance

01:23:09 Climbing Values Check In

01:25:03 Book Highlights Mindfulness

01:30:02 Where To Get The Book

01:32:33 Host Wrap Up Updates

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Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

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The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership withThe Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of thePlug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

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The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber.

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

Support the Show on Patreon
Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more.
https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

Climbing Coach Kevin Cowell joins to discuss:

• Starting the Climb Clinic in his garage
• Treating elite athletes and weekend warriors
• What happens to our identify as climbers when we become injured
• How to keep climbing and training while managing an injury
• Work, school, family… and other things that can affect our climbing identity
• What to do when pushing grades is important
• What to do after we’ve “peaked”
• How to get better when we can’t get stronger

Follow Kevin https://www.instagram.com/theclimbclinic/?hl=en

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com
• Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals athttps://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dealspodcasthttp://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Plateaus And Shifting Focus

00:56 Meet Kevin Kowal

03:44 Squamish Academy Stories

04:42 Kevin’s Climbing Origin

06:12 Building The Climb Clinic

08:23 Treating Pro Athletes

10:23 When Expectations Collapse

12:43 Injury And Identity

14:39 Reframing Rehab And Training

19:13 Beyond Injury Life Changes

22:56 Sponsors And Gear Break

25:48 Kevin’s Own Setbacks

31:47 Progression Obsession

34:14 Can You Still Progress

36:03 Plateau And Tweaks

36:46 Low Hanging Fruit

38:50 Elite Habits Beyond Hangboarding

40:55 Training Shift Rope To Board

45:36 Injury As Performance Gift

46:51 Life After The Peak

51:38 Humbling Trips And New Beta

57:14 Long Term Climbing Relationship

01:00:39 Work With Kevin And His Course

01:04:12 Bonus Episode And Season Updates

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Shoutout to Kent Olmstead, Michael Martin, and Sam Hancock for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

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Follow along onInstagram andYouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow

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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber.

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

OG climbers and advocates Shannon Stuart-Smith, Hugh Loeffler, and Paul Vidal, join for a live discussion at iconic Miguel's Pizza during Rocktoberfest to explore:

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The hilarious stories behind the naming of the classic routes “Two Women Alone” and “Mercy the Huff”

•

Early days of bolting routes at the Red

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The forest service bolting ban that prompted Shannon, Hugh, and others to take action to protect the Red

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How to fake your way into becoming an organization

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The discovery, development, and purchase of the Motherlode

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The discovery of The Dark Side

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The Hominy Hole incident

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Petzl RocTrip and Rocktoberfest

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PLEASE SUPPORT THE WORK OF THE RRGCC IF YOU CAN, ALONG WITH THESE RAD BRANDS WHO SUPPORT THE COALITION:

• Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition: Freedom to climb is not free. If you climb at the Red, become a member!
• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout athttps://scarpa.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far.
• Petzl: The best and most reliable helmets, harnesses, draws, and gear that'll help you to Access the Inaccessible. Find Petzl at your local gear shop, and learn more at Petzl.com
• Rhino Skin Solutions: Take care of your skin, send harder! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase!

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals athttps://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dealspodcasthttp://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Kent Olmstead, Michael Martin, and Sam Hancock for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

-

Follow along onInstagram andYouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber.

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

Support the Show on Patreon
Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more.
https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

Chris Kalous of the Enormocast, along with weekend warrior (and Hell coach) Annette Guo, join me to explore the good, the bad, and the ugly of our recent 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell epic, including:

• My mind blowing COROS metrics
• Coach Annette and her support plan
• Using legs more than arms
• Funniest moment
• Darkest moment
• Having a good cry
• My epic bonk and how we adjusted
• The song that lifted me out of the depths
• 75 routes, 100 routes

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS WHO GOT ME THROUGH HELL AND BACK:

• COROS: Track your workouts, HR, HRV, Sleep, Recovery, and Climbs with the best wearable tech for serious climbers. Use code STRUGGLE at COROS.com to score a free watch band with the purchase of a COROS Apex 4.
• SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout athttps://scarpa.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far.
• Petzl: The best and most reliable helmets, harnesses, draws, and gear that'll help you to Access the Inaccessible. Find Petzl at your local gear shop, and learn more at Petzl.com
• Rhino Skin Solutions: Take care of your skin, send harder! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase!

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals athttps://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dealspodcasthttp://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Kent Olmstead, Michael Martin, and Sam Hancock for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

-

Follow along onInstagram andYouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber.

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson
(normally $15)
http://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong

Support the Show on Patreon
Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more.
https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

Climbing Coach Joy Black joins to discuss:

• How to make a 30-min session count
• Removing friction to start workouts faster
• Being strong doesn’t mean being good
• Her groundbreaking study on climbing while pregnant
• How dangerous is falling while pregnant?
• Helpful signs to know when to end a session
• Postpartum training and climbing
• I HAVE A PELVIC FLOOR (and so do you)
• Listener Q&A

Follow joy on IG, @climbingwithjoy, and email her for a copy of the study: joy@trainedbyjoy.com

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com
• Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals athttps://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dealspodcasthttp://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Why This Paper Matters
00:48 Meet Joy Black
05:01 Small Talk and Cold Plunges
08:07 Parenting and Training Consistency
13:08 Beating Perfectionism
16:56 Joy’s Current Struggle
21:12 Coaching Pregnant Climbers
24:52 Sponsor Break
27:45 Replacing Opinion With Data
33:14 Study Methods and Fall Risk
36:24 Risk Rates In Context
37:29 Talking With Providers
40:01 Bouldering Falls Breakdown
41:38 How Climbers Self Modify
44:03 Misconceptions About Falling
45:50 Miscarriage And Birth Outcomes
46:48 Natural Taper And Guardrails
50:45 Pregnancy Not Performance Season
54:12 Intentional Climber Ad Break
56:04 Mental Health Benefits
58:18 Relaxin And Finger Training
01:03:21 Defining Postpartum Timeline
01:06:13 Breastfeeding Vs Recovery
01:08:11 Pelvic Floor Explained
01:12:55 Postpartum Pelvic Floor Rehab
01:16:04 Pelvic Floor Progression
01:17:04 Coaching Lessons for All
01:19:41 Consistency and Intentional Training
01:20:55 Finger Training Focus
01:22:31 Overcoming Iso Repeaters Setup
01:25:52 Overhead vs Ground Repeaters
01:28:32 Stacking Sessions and Block Pulls
01:30:22 Rapid Fire Listener Q&A
01:30:36 Kids at the Gym Tips
01:32:53 Caffeine During Pregnancy
01:34:05 Two Years Postpartum Rebuild
01:37:41 Where to Find Joy
01:39:06 Wrap Up and Next Pro Clinic
01:41:11 Host Updates and Upcoming Events
01:47:48 Final Thanks and Sign Off

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Shoutout to Kent Olmstead, Michael Martin, and Sam Hancock for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

-

Follow along onInstagram andYouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber.

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

Support the Show on Patreon
Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more.
https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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Weekend Warrior and badass adventurer Eddie Taylor explores:

• How to plan a first expedition as a weekend warrior
• What to do when the plan goes sideways
• Dealing with killer mosquitoes
• Trundling while climbing
• Training hard on a busy schedule
• Participating in the SCARPA Athlete Mentorship Initiative
• How he raised funds for his Everest expedition
• Why onsighting is the way

Learn more about the SAMI program here: https://us.scarpa.com/pages/scarpa-athlete-mentorship-initiative-sami

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout athttps://scarpa.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far.
• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals athttps://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dealspodcasthttp://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Kent Olmstead, Michael Martin, and Sam Hancock for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Midnight Pre Climb Panic
00:23 Sendtember Welcome
01:10 Meet Eddie Taylor
02:38 Weekend Warrior Resume
04:55 Catching Up Dad Life
06:03 Family Climbing Trip Beta
07:17 Why The Cirque
08:30 Getting There Logistics
09:43 What Makes It Unique
11:59 Endless Daylight Window
12:58 Training And Prep Reality
14:22 The Expedition Team
15:32 Goals And Route Wish List
17:22 Parenting Time Tradeoffs
18:54 Sponsor Break Scarpa
20:19 Sponsor Break Physiovantage
22:30 Trip Length Breakdown
23:24 Planning And Packing Lessons
27:29 The Brutal Mosquito Hike
29:16 Fairy Meadows Vibe
30:39 Right Into The Storm Warmup
31:43 Lotus Flower Tower Push
35:17 Summit Glow And Rappel
36:10 Rest Days and Forecast
37:46 Goals Shift After Storms
38:26 Power of Silence Attempt
40:29 Bailing and Regrets
41:43 Arc'teryx Gear Break
43:08 Hawaiian Shirts and Meaning
45:30 Parenting and Next Trips
47:46 Training Split and Simul Mileage
49:12 Freerider Boulder and Board Power
53:22 Scarpa SAMI Mentorship
58:13 Funding Everest Lessons
01:03:57 Fall Goals and Yosemite Plans
01:07:13 Ground Up Adventure Ethic
01:09:01 Wrap Up and Listener Takeaways
01:10:44 SAMI Links and Bonus Episode
01:13:05 Host Training and Horseshoe Hell
01:17:33 Final Thanks and Sign Off

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Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership withThe Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of thePlug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber.

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

Support the Show on Patreon
Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more.
https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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Michaela Kiersch: Her Latest 5.15a (9a+) Ascent, Grade Debates, Power Endurance Training, and Reel Rock

• The story behind her FA of Mad Lib (9a / 5.14d)
• Sending Dolby Surround (9a+ / 5.15a) after a hold broke
• Trading beta with Will Bosi
• Taking her strength and power endurance to a new level
• Handling send pressure on a limit project
• The challenge of grading the hardest climbs
• A case for doing easier volume
• The most efficient way to build endurance
• Being featured in Reel Rock

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com
• Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals athttps://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dealspodcasthttp://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Pressure at the Limit
00:24 Mikaela Returns
01:27 Big Sends Preview
04:03 Lyme Disease Detour
07:10 Catching Up and Moving
08:50 Vermont Bouldering Tear
09:53 Madlib First Ascent
15:22 Jaws and Size Beta
16:25 Dolby Surround Backstory
19:04 Two Months on Dolby
21:44 Sponsor Break
24:41 Training for Dolby
27:08 Send Day Mindset
32:50 Grading and Consensus
35:50 Grades Versus Inspiration
39:20 Breakthrough Grades Memories
42:21 Colorado Plans And Technique
44:58 Tactics And Smart Volume
45:55 Intentional Climber App
47:47 Anti Style And Beta Sharing
50:34 Training For Route Season
51:48 Endurance Sessions Explained
55:22 Madness Cave Prep Tips
58:32 Mindset Journaling Progress
01:02:13 Real Rock Feature Reveal
01:06:46 Bonus Episode And Patreon
01:11:00 Host Red Session Update
01:16:18 Thanks Sponsors And Wrap

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership withThe Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of thePlug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Casually reflecting on my training, performance, and experimentation for the month, including:

•

Recap of August goals (hits and misses)

•

Struggling like crazy with the new training load

•

How I achieved 18% more completed workouts

•

Squamish recap

•

Getting on the fall 12c projie for the first time

•

Technology I'm using to hack my training

•

Can a vegetarian use collagen?

•

September goals

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

I hope your training and climbing are going great!

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber.

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

Support the Show on Patreon
Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more.
https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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Jonathan Siegrist, Alannah Yip, Mike Foley, and Tyler Thompson sit down at the Arc'teryx Academy to explore:

• Memorable climbing experiences (and epics) in Squamish
• The process of athlete-designer collaboration for gear design
• The future of hard sport climbing
• When will we see a 5.15d (9c) repeat or 5.16a (9c+) FA
• Why America is falling behind on hard sport climbing
• What went into Arc'teryx's brand new sport harness, the Lithos SL
• Gates in or out

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• Arc’teryx: Check out the new Lithos SL harness; the lightest and most comfortable harness I've ever tied into. Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com
• Intentional Climber: Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for busy climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals athttps://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dealspodcasthttp://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right):

00:00 Intro

00:24 Ryan Returns From Squamish

01:10 Meet The Panel

02:18 Puppy Distraction

04:47 Live Show Kickoff

04:59 Enormocast Origins

06:23 Old School Harnesses

10:03 Suffering And Progress

11:41 Alannah First Gear Story

13:53 Mike Foley Squamish Intro

15:34 Designing Lithos SL

19:31 Mike Path To Arc'teryx

21:34 Harness Giveaway Moment

22:41 Future Of Sport Climbing

25:13 Non Gendered Fit System

29:31 Bring Out Tyler And J Star

31:00 Clinic And First Leads

32:11 Squamish Memories Grand Wall

35:41 Squamish Epic Stories

37:49 Harness Design Testing

41:57 Minimalist Sport Rack

46:06 Future of Hard Climbing

52:15 Route Development Debate

54:07 Audience Q and Harnesses

59:22 Squamish Trip Recap

01:00:46 Bouldering and Slab Lessons

01:05:10 Multi Pitch Humble Pie

01:09:23 Sport Day and Film Night

01:12:04 Fun Over Grades

01:13:46 Thanks and Wrap Up

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership withThe Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of thePlug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber.

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson
(normally $15)
http://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong

Support the Show on Patreon
Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more.
https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

-

Pro climber, mindset coach, and badass mom, Hazel Findlay, is back to discuss:

• Her recent 5.14R trad ascent
• How to care about a goal without losing oneself in the process
• Pushing to the edge of what was healthy
• Is projecting “fun”?
• Her emotional low point and what turned it around
• How her friends helped her to send
• The highs, lows, and "what's nexts" after the send

Sign up for the Strong Mind newsletter and check out their other free resources at https://www.strongmindclimbing.com/ Check out the Strong Mind YT channel: https://www.youtube.com/@StrongMindClimbing

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com
• Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals athttps://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dealspodcasthttp://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Hazel Returns and Big Send

03:51 Tea Talk Warmup

06:38 Route Name and Welsh Roots

11:38 E Grades and Risk Explained

14:23 Postpartum Performance Context

18:23 Motivation and Finding Your Why

24:18 Sponsors and App Updates

28:08 Goals Without Obsession

32:48 Costs Boundaries and Motherhood

36:56 Project Life Balance

39:18 Progress And Pressure

41:48 Training App Break

43:40 Projecting Fun Debate

47:09 Weather And Low Points

49:47 Route Beta Breakdown

54:04 Send Day Story

58:39 Mindset And Trying Hard

01:02:37 After The Send

01:09:45 Strong Mind Resources

01:11:20 Bonus Episode Pitch

01:14:02 Host Training Update

01:17:30 Final Thanks And Wrap

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership withThe Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of thePlug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber.

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

Support the Show on Patreon
Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more.
https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

Ari Grode and Rob Liberatore from The Ground Up podcast (along with special guest Chris Kalous) share pro insights from Horseshoe Hell:

• What is Horseshoe Hell
• 12, 24, and 36 hours of Hell
• Why aren't there more injries
• How to qualify in different areas
• Biggest mistakes noobs make at Hell
• What Chris and I need to do to survive
• Pro tactics to save skin, energy, and sanity
• What to expect before, during, and after the event
• The most important thing: choosing the right costume

Check out The Ground Up Podcast wherever you get your pods, and follow their adventures on IG https://www.instagram.com/listentogroundup/

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com
• Rhino Skin Solutions: Take care of your skin, send harder! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you’re pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase!
• Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals athttps://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dealspodcasthttp://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Why Hell Feels Grim

00:51 Meet The Guests

08:52 Event Basics Explained

10:17 Vibe Costumes And Culture

14:16 Rules Points And Qualifying

18:33 The Ranch Layout And Rock

28:10 Prep Mindset And Goals

33:44 Training Systems And Stashes

38:39 Old Man Strength Training

40:19 Tactics Over Training

41:08 Shoes for 24 Hours

43:58 Prewalk and Partner Sync

46:54 Fast Transitions No Retie

49:43 Safety and Code Words

54:02 Sponsor Break Skin App

57:11 Route Difficulty Strategy

01:02:47 Rack and Permadraw Beta

01:05:49 Lead Swap and Efficiency

01:08:47 Pacing Bonks and Howls

01:10:58 Food Water Caffeine Plan

01:13:51 Food Stash Strategy

01:15:19 Dialed Systems and Ropes

01:16:40 Stashing Timing and Labels

01:18:59 Darkest Hours and Bonks

01:22:31 Night Gear and Headlamps

01:24:59 Logging Routes and Weather

01:26:56 Crowds Etiquette and Waiting

01:29:22 Taping Fingers and Gloves

01:31:21 Support Crew Rules

01:32:52 Final Hour Sprint

01:35:39 Post Finish Recovery Party

01:39:46 Wrap Up Sponsors and Training

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

-

Follow along onInstagram andYouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber.

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson
(normally $15)
http://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong

Support the Show on Patreon
Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more.
https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

-

Professional filmmaker and climber Jon Glassberg explores:

• Documenting the cutting edge of climbing performance
• Being with Janja for every attempt on Bibliographie (9b+ / 5.15c)
• Dirt bagging days
• The evolution of climbing media
• What it takes to make it as a climbing photographer / filmmaker
• The send footage of Tommy on Meltdown that can’t be shared (yet)
• Exploring his incredible films Girl Climber and Strength to Weight
• Is Janja capable of 9c/5.15d?

Check out Jon's projects and everything Louder than 11 is up to at https://lt11.com/ and https://www.instagram.com/louderthan11/

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout athttps://scarpa.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far.
• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com
• Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.
• Spire Clip: Built to last, built to work every time. Easily hang and remove draws, clip your rope through a pre-hung draw, and snag your rope for the next climb. Purchase just the head or full rig with the carbon fiber pole and use code STRUGGLE for $10 off.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals athttps://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dealspodcasthttp://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Why Film Struggle

00:26 Meet John Glasberg

03:53 Parenthood And Travel

07:37 Janja And Bibliographie

09:56 Early Climbing Roots

13:28 Dirtbag Year On Road

14:26 Bouldering Breakthrough

18:13 Digital Media Revolution

20:01 Building Louder Than 11

26:18 Creative Hustle Today

27:27 Betting On Stories

33:50 Strength To Weight Origins

35:16 Ethan And Fatherhood

42:06 Sponsor Break And Next Film

46:01 Girl Climber Reflections

47:20 Portaledge Turning Point

51:38 Storytelling Under Pressure

52:57 Chasing Janja Interview

54:28 Why Bibliographie Matters

58:15 Near Misses And Conditions

01:00:47 The Send Day Breakdown

01:03:19 Is This Her Limit

01:07:06 What Makes Janja Great

01:12:51 Future Goals And 9C

01:19:13 Bonus Episode Teaser

01:22:10 Support The Show

01:24:34 Bee Sting Climbing Update

01:27:56 Final Sign Off

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership withThe Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of thePlug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Reflecting on my training, performance, and experimentation for the month, including:

•

Recap of June/July goals (hits and misses)

•

Another back injury

•

Australia struggles and climbing

•

Nate Drolet's new training plan for me

•

Exploring the maximum tolerable dose of training

•

A technique "a-ha moment" on the Treadwall

•

August goals

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

Download Intentional Climber on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock $100 of free coaching plans, plus a secret discount.

Have an awesome month!

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber.

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson
(normally $15)
http://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong

Support the Show on Patreon
Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more.
https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

Father, husband, computer programmer, and weekend warrior Jeff Ash explores:

• Climbing in the 80s with Matt Samet
• Quitting climbing for 32 years
• Ninja training crossover
• Being more intentional with training
• Focusing on technique
• The power of reflection and journaling
• How to avoid gym distractions
• Training indoors for just a few outdoor days
• Intuitive eating and forming a healthier relationship with food
• Drill work to improve movement
• The benefit of “coaching” our friends

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout athttps://scarpa.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far.
• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals athttps://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dealspodcasthttp://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Low Hanging Gains

00:56 Meet Jeff Ashe

09:53 Jeffs Climbing Roots

15:18 Life Break From Climbing

18:01 Return After 32 Years

22:59 Old School Ethics

23:50 Rebuilding At 50 Plus

26:02 Arcteryx Academy Plug

27:15 Shoe Gear Talk

27:43 Scarpa Shoe Picks

29:10 Software Engineer Origins

30:12 Tech Then and Now

32:03 Houston Gym Routine

34:04 Intentional Technique Gains

39:16 Planning Sessions and Drills

43:30 Outdoor Goals and Route Style

50:08 Intuitive Eating Coaching

54:57 Root Causes and Habit Fixes

58:40 Journaling Patterns in Training

01:00:33 Exaggerate Hip Technique

01:02:45 Drills and Coaching Tools

01:04:29 Film Your Sessions

01:07:38 What to Look For

01:12:12 Board Video Comparisons

01:13:24 Train Hard Then Have Fun

01:14:44 Summer Endurance Goals

01:17:10 Community Feedback and App

01:22:02 Jet Lag and Australia Trip

01:25:19 Back Injury and Reset

01:27:01 Training Plan Ahead

01:28:45 Closing Motivation

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

-

Follow along onInstagram andYouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber.

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson
(normally $15)
http://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong

Support the Show on Patreon
Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more.
https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

-

Elite climber, Emil Abrahamsson, is back on the show to discuss:

• His journey to sending 9a (5.14d)
• Managing a string of mystery injuries
• Being told he needed to quit climbing forever
• The route Adam Ondra recommended to him
• His off-the-wall training to build endurance
• Why pull-ups are pointless
• Finger training he did to get better at sport climbing
• YouTube projects (and struggles)
• His secret reality tv project

Check out Emil's YT channel: https://www.youtube.com/@EmilAbrahamsson Join the Fantasy Climbing League: https://fantasyclimbingleague.com/

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com
• Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals athttps://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dealspodcasthttp://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Shoulder Scare Cold Open

00:23 Welcome Back Emil Returns

03:14 Swedish Place Names Banter

03:56 Dad Portrait No Eyebrows

05:35 First 9A Goal Talk

09:50 Injury Streak And Misdiagnosis

13:30 Why We Climb Soul Searching

17:36 Rehab Trench No Pullups

19:35 Straight Arm Board Lessons

29:14 Arco Project Picked With Ondra

31:37 First Sessions Reality Check

34:13 Off Route Endurance Training

39:23 Resting Skills Kneebars Mastery

41:58 Sport Skills Boost Bouldering

43:25 Training Timeline and Shoulder

44:17 Pullups Versus Climbing Skill

46:37 Cardio Base for Climbers

48:15 App Break Intentional Climber

50:17 Finger Training and Hangboard

52:58 Personal Strengths and Superpowers

54:47 Fear of Falling Mindset

57:57 Next Goals and Injury Risk

01:03:59 YouTube Workload and Big Island

01:10:08 Research Projects and Physical 100

01:12:39 Fantasy Climbing League Explained

01:17:43 Wrap Up and Host Training Update

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership withThe Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of thePlug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Grab an oice cold coike, some people jerky, and tether yourself to this Bonus Movie Night takedown (and love fest) of the Netflix adventure thriller, Apex. Shoutout to Andrew and Chris from The Runout for inviting me to join the fun! Give them some Patreon love if you can-- they make a great show over there.

Test YOUR Critical Force, break through plateaus, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber.

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson
(normally $15)
http://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong

Dr. Tyler Nelson returns to dive deep on Critical Force, including:

• How to test critical force
• Why it matters
• My critical force test
• Why MVC is still king
• How critical force tells us what to train
• Improving power endurance on and off wall
• The big change I’m making to my training now
• What boulderers should focus on kill
• Why so many pros don’t test finger strength

Dr. Tyler Nelson's Critical Force Field Test is on the Intentional Climber app! Test your CF and get instant training recommendations from Tyler based on the results.

Here are Tyler's other episodes to check out:

• https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dr-tyler-nelson-on-finger-strength/
• https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/expert-analysis-training-with-dr-tyler-nelson/
• https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/pro-clinic-power-with-dr-tyler-nelson-free-preview/
• https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dr-tyler-nelson-pro-clinic-on-building-endurance-for-bouldering-and-sport-climbing/
• https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dr-tyler-nelson-stronger-wrists-stronger-climbing/
• https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/pro-clinic-dr-tyler-nelson-on-how-to-maintain-and-gain-strength-beyond-age-35-free/

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com
• Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals athttps://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dealspodcasthttp://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Critical Force Teaser
00:22 Show Intro and Focus
01:39 Critical Force Explained
05:20 Host Updates Australia
06:47 Meet Dr Tyler Nelson
08:05 Testing Protocol Breakdown
11:07 Interpreting Your Numbers
15:27 Energy Systems and Plateau
18:23 Testing Method Matters
23:58 Who Should Use This
25:43 Arc'teryx Academy Ad
26:59 What Results Mean Training
31:42 Route Goal Flower Power
33:28 Training Interventions Percentages
41:49 No Gear Testing Options
43:49 Treadwall for Endurance
45:28 How To Train From Metrics
47:38 Critical Force Takeaways
48:57 Power Endurance Priority
50:28 Training Tools Setup
52:09 Active Rest Explained
53:39 80 vs 60 Percent Blocks
56:11 Retesting and Progress
57:35 Elite Curve and Technique
01:01:47 Why Pros Skip Testing
01:04:00 More Quality Attempts
01:09:31 Repeater Protocol Details
01:11:41 In Season Projecting
01:14:52 Peaking for Fall Season
01:19:57 Outro and App Protocol
01:23:49 My Current Training Plan
01:27:25 Final Wrap Up

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Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

-

Follow along onInstagram andYouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber.

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

Support the Show on Patreon
Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more.
https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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Elite climber Adam Ondra explores:

• Flashing multiple V15 (8C) boulders
• How he’s stronger than ever at 33
• The new training tools he’s using
• The truth about his "secret" crimp grips
• Going for V17 (and perhaps V18?)
• His weird low-intensity warmup for V15 flash attempts
• Training solo vs with a crew
• Is anyone today capable of 9c+ 5.16a

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com
• Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals athttps://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dealspodcasthttp://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 App Announcement

01:15 Welcome Adam Ondra

03:46 Life in Arco Italy

05:39 Smith Rock Stories

06:57 Retiring From Comps

08:49 Flash Mindset Explained

12:20 Training Tools and Crew

16:49 Board Climbing Breakdown

19:09 Sponsor Break Arc'teryx

20:52 Sponsor Break Sendurex

22:35 Strength Testing Habits

24:23 Grip Hacks and Thumb

32:09 Flash vs Project Potential

35:02 App Break Intentional

37:04 Mindset for Flash Attempts

38:47 Flash Warmup Routine

40:48 Using Beta Videos Wisely

43:37 Solo vs Crew Training

46:30 Regimen vs Flexibility

51:39 Sport Climbing Goals

53:49 Arco New Route Potential

55:41 Will 9C Get Repeated

59:20 What Makes 9C Plus

01:03:32 Staying Psyched Climbing

01:06:54 Bonus Episode Promo

01:09:45 Host Training Update

01:11:13 Intentional Climber App

01:14:29 Final Wrap Up

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership withThe Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of thePlug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Join The Struggle’s Patreon community to get 150+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

In this Pro Clinic, mindset coach Angus Kille (with guest appearance from Hazel Findlay) explore:

• Process goals vs outcome goals
• The power of journaling and reflection
• Using thoughtful goals to mitigate fear of failure
• Finding your big Why
• Is grade chasing a “bad” goal?
• Intrinsic vs extrinsic goals
• Setting S.M.A.R.T. goals

Free access to the Mindset Makeover kit from Strong Mind: https://www.strongmindclimbing.com/course/mindset-makeover Explore all of Strong Mind's resources: https://www.strongmindclimbing.com/ Start your free 14-day Trial of the Intentional Climber app, and use code STRUGGLE to unlock mindset tools from Hazel Findlay and the Stronger Fingers program from coach Kris Hampton: https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentionalpodcast

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The free version of this Pro Clinic is being brought to you at zero cost thanks to:

• Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

-

Gain instant access to the FULL Pro Clinic by supporting the show as a Patron (you can even check it out for FREE with a 7-day trial):

https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Growth Mindset Hook
00:24 Pro Clinic Returns
00:47 Intentional Climber App
02:36 Why Goals Need Purpose
03:56 Meet Hazel and Angus
05:05 Mallorca Retreat Recap
06:27 Trip Goals and Intentions
08:10 Hazel on Goal Setting
10:44 Angus Evolves His Goals
12:30 Meltdown Project Tactics
18:23 Outcome vs Process Goals
23:53 Find Your North Star
27:09 Ryan Shares His Why
32:17 App Break Intentional Climber
34:48 Digging Deeper Than Progress
44:19 Finding Your Why Support
45:47 Strongmind Resources Explained
46:24 Mindset Frames Growth Mindset
49:24 Bad Why External Values
54:12 From North Star To Goals
55:44 Process Vs Outcome Goals
01:01:05 Intrinsic Vs Extrinsic Motivation
01:07:35 Staying Intrinsically Focused
01:11:35 SMART Goals Without Overload
01:16:35 Distill Your Why Mantra
01:18:19 Wrap Up Links Newsletter
01:21:22 Host Reflection North Star
01:26:24 Intentional Climber App Updates
01:28:09 Final Thanks And Support

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter and Michael Martin for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

-

Follow along onInstagram andYouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership withThe Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of thePlug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all.

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber.

https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional

Support the Show on Patreon
Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more.
https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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Elite climber Noah Wheeler explores:

• Specific training for Burden
• The dab ascent and what happened after
• Is Burden really V17?
• The change that unlocked the send
• Board climbing vs hang boarding
• Mindset tools to lock in for a send
• What Daniel Woods taught him
• Half crimp vs full crimp
• The next V17 on his list
• The happiness advantage

-

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com
• Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals athttps://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dealspodcasthttp://thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

-

Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

-

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Secret App Launch
02:23 Noah Wheeler Intro
06:33 Goals and Process
11:51 Evolving Through Struggle
18:18 Board Training Origins
21:15 Board Sessions and Volume
24:05 Intentional Climber Break
26:07 Rehab and Burden Prep
31:10 The Dab and Redemption
36:24 Dab Send Debate
37:25 Grading Burden Reality
42:10 V17 Or Downgrade
43:17 New Beta Breakdown
47:12 Micro Beta Anchors
50:20 Arc'teryx Harness Spot
52:06 Nutrition Calorie Wakeup
53:08 Carbs Protein Caffeine
57:11 Tactics Trip Mistakes
59:44 Footwork Pull Away
01:02:39 Grip Strength Weakness
01:05:23 Finger Strength Metrics
01:05:59 Projecting Mindset Phases
01:09:52 Pre Send Mental Crux
01:11:36 Embodiment Tools
01:15:50 Happiness Advantage
01:19:35 What’s Next Plans
01:20:53 Board Style Dreams
01:22:55 We Will Rock Vision
01:25:24 Wrap Up Bonus Plug
01:28:00 Host App Pitch
01:29:28 Climbing Reflections
01:31:59 Final Thanks Outro

-

Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

-

The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership withThe Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

-

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of thePlug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

-

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.

-

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!