The 1916 Company Podcast

Independent watchmakers, rise of grand compliations, modern sports watches, brand consilidations; the 1990s were filled with changing tides for the watch industry and Armand and Tim are dissecting just exactly what shifted. They discuss how brands like Patek Philippe, F.P. Journe, A. Lange & Sohne, and many more helped shape what we think of now when it comes to the watch world in this episode of The 1916 Company Podcast.

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0:00 Introduction

2:47 1993: When Watches Got Big

5:20 The Rebirth of A. Lange & Söhne

10:30 Patek Philippe & the Return of Complications

15:55 Grand Complications

21:15 The Birth of Modern Independent Watchmaking

30:10 The '90s Sports Watch

36:10 Consolidation: Swatch Group, Richemont & LVMH

41:50 Our '90s Watch Wish Lists

Tim is joined by CQ in this episode of The 1916 Company Podcast where they're discussing everything Panerai. The duo are choosing some of their favorite watches from the brand and discussing what they admire most about them. They also talk about the pre- and post-internet aspect of the brand, their approach to marketing, and where they go from here.

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0:00 Introduction

1:45 Pre-Internet Panerai

3:55 Luminor Tuttonero Ceramica PAM 438

6:05 Luminor Marina PAM 40

8:20 First Special Edition: Radiomir PAM 21

11:20 Luminor Submersible PAM 170

13:35 Luminor "La Bomba" PAM 64

17:45 Why Big Panerai Watches Still Work

19:20 Slytech Chronograph PAM 202

20:25 Accidental Marketing of Movie Stars

24:20 Luminor Marina Tantalum PAM 172

28:20 Chronometer Certification of Panerais

31:00 Mare Nostrum and the Original 1993 Models

35:55 Luminor Chrono for AMG PAM 108

40:00 Panerai Ferrari Watches

42:25 Radiomir Independent PAM 80

46:15 Where Does Panerai Go from Here?

55:30 Panerai Bronzo PAM 382

59:55 Radiomir Chrono Split-Seconds PAM 158

Summer is ending but the sports watch endures through all seasons, so Tim and Armand discuss the current state of the genre while talking about brands like JLC, Grand Seiko, Omega, Breitling, and more. From new releases to dying trends and a wrap-up of some of their favorite examples as of late, the duo break down everything you need to know about the sports watch in 2026.

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0:00 Introduction & Wrist Check

1:03 The Convergence of Sports Watches & Dress Watches

12:37 Current (True) Sports Watches

20:35 Patek Philippe's 50th Anniversary Nautilus

24:37 Is Panerai's Strategy Working?

31:22 Three Notable Integrated Sport Watches

40:18 70th Anniversary Blancpain Bathyscaphe

48:24 Breitling's Sport Watches

52:38 Sinn's Hunting Watch

56:34 U1 S L & GPHG Nominations

59:09 Closing Thoughts

Tim and Armand have a bit of a grab bag episode with this one where they discuss their perfect watches, customization and independent brands, comparing cars to watches, and the proliferation of AI slop. They start with a discussion of the difficulty and weight of custom orders on independent watchmakers and how they deal with it before turning to their opinion on the use of AI in the collecting hobby. Finally, they end the discussion with using watches from brands like Panerai, F.P. Journe, Hublot, IWC, and more as inspiration for their personal ideal watch.

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00:00 Introduction

00:45 Challenges of Custom Watches

19:49 The Watch Community vs. AI Slop

32:50 Tim & Armand's Ideal Watches in 2026

51:05 Repairing Cars & Watches: It's Never Simple

54:44 Closing Thoughts

Usually Tim and Armand discuss buying watches, but this episode they look at the other end of the spectrum and explain the lessons, regrets, and stories behind selling watches. From Tim's JLC liquidation to Armand's Hublot Super B regret, the duo examine the reasoning behind their personal watch sells. They also get into the stories they've heard from their time in the industry that offer up other ideas behind why people have tried to sell their watches before as well in this episode of The 1916 Company Podcast.

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00:00 Introduction

02:27 Armand's First Watch Sale

05:25 Tim's JLC Liquidation and Why

13:59 Armand's Selling Regret

18:02 Watches Caught Up in Divorce

20:54 Not Wearing Watch as Reason for Selling

24:54 Tim's Selling Regret and Seller's Remorse

31:15 Changing Tastes and Independents

40:42 Buyer Beware Stories

Tim Mosso sits down with Josh Thanos to break down where watch collecting is headed through 2030. They cover the softening Richard Mille market, why Grubel Forsey and Vacheron's titanium Overseas are gaining momentum, undervalued independents like Urwerk and Moritz Grossman, and the shift toward private WhatsApp communities and in-person events over public social media.

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Independent watchmakers like F.P. Journe, Urwerk, De Bethune, and many others all have a "then vs. now" feeling about their watches. Even if a brand is relatively new, they might have a breaking point in their design or watchmaking that makes the older era feel almost vintage. Tim and Armand explore this idea by taking a look at these brands and discuss the differences. Then, they break down what they think makes a good summer watch (outside of being just a diver) and what some of their favorites are for this season.

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00:00 Introduction

00:45 De Bethune’s Evolution

06:15 F.P. Journe Then vs. Now

11:49 Roger Dubuis and Franck Muller’s Changes

17:37 Greubel Forsey Over the Years

24:50 Urwerk’s Sudden Transformation

28:00 What Sets the Gronefelds Apart

31:10 Ulysse Nardin’s Changing Philosophy

37:05 Watches for Summer (That Aren’t Divers)

Brands like AP, Vacheron, IWC, and many others have inventories and histories that create a mountain of little-known watches whose pedigree, watchmaking, and design are just as standout as their more well-known counterparts. In this episode, Armand and special guest CQ pull from The 1916 Company vault to find these hidden gem examples. From discontinued models like the Audemars Piguet Millenary to off-the-beaten-path examples of well known lines like the IWC Ingenieur and Vacheron Constantin Overseas, you'll want to see what the guys pulled for this one!

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0:00 Introduction

1:18 Audemars Piguet: Current Collection and the Millenary

7:32 Royal Oak Offshore

10:56 The Commercialization vs. Craft of Watchmaking

15:11 Vacheron Constantin Skeleton Patrimony

18:30 The Challenges of Servicing Watch Movements

24:47 JLC Master Compressor World Time

28:16 IWC Big Pilot "Muhammad Ali"

31:40 IWC Ingenieur Chronograph

33:40 Vacheron Constantin Overseas

35:30 The Making of a Standout Sports Watch

39:25 Closing Thoughts

Tim and Armand are obviously incredibly involved with the pre-owned watch world, but that's not to say there's not still reasons to buy a new watch. In this episode, they take a look at all the reasons a watch collector might consider new over pre-owned. They dig into the case for buying new: no DPO (Dreaded Previous Owner) to worry about, no over-polishing surprises, and the chance to build a real relationship with an authorized dealer; so check out the full episode for the entire discussion!

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00:00 Introduction

00:50 Milestone Watch Buys: New or Pre-Owned?

03:21 "DPO": Dreaded Previous Owner

09:46 Watch Polishing, Laser Welding, and When is Too Much

14:49 Building a Relationship with an Authorized Dealer

20:37 New Watches from Independent Watches

26:47 New and Pre-Owned Watch Warranties

33:10 Watch Community Events and Clubs

37:47 The "New Watch Guy"

Tim and Armand dive into the world of independent watchmaking and the brands that thrive outside the mainstream spotlight. They explore the distinct appeal of the accessible sophistication of NOMOS and Sinn to the high-concept "mechanical sorcery" found in Hautlence and Reservoir. By highlighting the unique character and technical risks these smaller makers take, they showcase why brands like Fortis and Marco Lang deserve a spot in any serious collector’s conversation. Tune in for a deep dive into the innovation, value, and personality that make the independent scene so vital to the watch world.

Shop brands featured here:

NOMOS: https://www.the1916company.com/watches/nomos-glashutte/

Sinn: https://www.the1916company.com/pre-owned/sinn/

Oris: https://www.the1916company.com/watches/oris/

Zeitwinkel: https://www.the1916company.com/pre-owned/zeitwinkel/

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0:00 Introduction: Tim vs. Oasis

2:17 NOMOS

9:34 Sinn

14:18 Fortis

23:17 Dan Royter

26:51 Marco Lang

28:14 Hautlence

31:48 Fears

33:41 Reservoir & Automotive-Inspired Watches

36:49 Oris Aquis Divers

38:18 Mühle Glashütte

40:04 Zeitwinkel

43:18 Oris Artelier Calibre 113

45:39 App Promo

Tim and Armand take a deep dive into IWC, tracing the brand's heritage, identifying the turning point that defined its modern era, and sharing their all-time favorites from across the catalog. They break down the history of the Ingenieur, reflect on the enduring success of the Pilot's Watch line, and examine how the 2017 Da Vinci reboot shifted the conversation around the brand. The episode closes with a look back at some of IWC's most compelling chapters, including the Porsche Design collaborations and the mega complications of the 1990s.

Shop pre-owned IWC watches: https://www.the1916company.com/pre-owned/iwc-schaffhausen/

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00:00 App Promo

01:00 Introduction

01:50 When Did IWC Turnaround Start?

08:40 Favorite 2000-2018 Releases

14:21 How the Da Vinci Changed Releases

17:04 Recent Releases

29:51 Favorites from IWC’s Past

39:44 Porsche Design Watches and Vintage Ingenieur

48:43 Mega Complication Watches

54:59 The Ingenieur Pocket Watch

Tim and Armand are reacting to all things Watches & Wonders 2026 as they return to the podcast studio for the first time since the show. They discuss some of their favorites releases, breakdown the trends they’re seeing, and give their thoughts on novelties across brands like Zenith, Tudor, Cartier, and more. Watch the entire episode to hear all of their opinions!

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0:00 App Promo

1:00 Introduction

1:30 Patterns and Trends of Watches & Wonders 2026

4:06 Vacheron Overseas Dual-Time Cardinal Points

5:28 Zenith G.F.J.

6:51 The Rise of "Ultra-Watches"

8:38 Patek Philippe

9:57 Tudor

12:13 NOMOS

12:49 Cartier

20:33 Vacheron Overseas 2500V vs. 2000V

23:29 Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar "Lumen"

24:16 Oris & NOMOS Bring Back Green Dials

29:50 Thoughts on IWC Releases

38:59 Chopard

42:51 Hautlence

46:43 Grand Seiko "Ushio" Diver

51:09 H. Moser & Cie.

57:05 Tim and Armand's Best in Show

Tim and Armand use their experience in the watch industry to explain to listeners the true ins and outs of working in the luxury watch field. They examine the life of a client advisor, what it takes to be a watchmaker, and the funny stories they've encountered along the way. If you've ever been interested in a career in the industry, this episode has all the details!

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Tim and Armand are tackling the idea of gold watches as fragile items and if using them as daily drivers is advised in this episode of The 1916 Company podcast. That line of thought gives way to a greater discussion of watch case materials. They cover different types of gold techniques, the case for ceramic and sapphire, and the differences between white metal materials such as platinum and palladium. They even touch on some more obscure materials, so watch the full video for all the details!

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00:00 App Promo

01:00 Can Precious Metal Watches be a Daily Driver?

04:49 The Importance of Finish

07:14 Types of White Gold Watches

14:43 Use of Gold in Daily Use

16:16 Fragility of Dress Watches

20:44 Unique Types of Gold

24:20 Gold Filled, Rolled, and Capped Watches

27:58 Gold Dress Watches

29:25 Palladium

32:03 Rhodium, Cobalt, and Titanium

35:51 Ceramic Cases

41:04 Other Materials Used in Watches

Tim and Armand discuss the upcoming 2026 Watches & Wonders and breakdown what they predict, and hope, to see at this year's event. The increase in jump hour watches, the heritage of Vacheron Constantin, NOMOS prices, and much more are all covered in regards to the event. They then turn their attention to viewer questions about Blancpain vs. Sinn and MB&F alternatives to end the show.

Shop watches from this episode:

NOMOS Glashütte: https://www.the1916company.com/pre-owned/nomos-glashutte/

Vacheron Constantin: https://www.the1916company.com/pre-owned/vacheron-constantin/

Blancpain: https://www.the1916company.com/pre-owned/blancpain/

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Tim and Armand are covering three topics in this episode: watches they regret selling, the importance of box and papers, and when is it OK to wear an oversized watch. They discuss Tim parting with his JLC collection, debate on the merits of box and papers, and try to explain the exact right circumstances to wear something too big for your wrist.

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Tim and Armand take a look at the pilot watch category with brands like Patek Philippe, Breitling, Zenith, Sinn and more all discussed. They start with examining what even a pilot watch is exactly, how the modern term differs from the original concept, and cover some of their top picks from the genre. Watch the full video for all the details!

Check out some of the watches featured in this video:

https://www.the1916company.com/pre-owned/iwc-schaffhausen/pilot-s-watches/ https://www.the1916company.com/patek-philippe/complications/5524g-001/ https://www.the1916company.com/pre-owned/sinn/pilot/4966412/

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Co-branded luxury watches range from iconic, like Patek Philippe and Tiffany; to more out there, like Roger Dubuis and Pirelli Tires. In this episode of The 1916 Company podcast, Armand and Tim examine what exactly makes a match made in heaven when it comes to co-branded watches.

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Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin have long been held-up as the "Holy Trinity" of watchmaking; but what does the term actually mean? Tim and Armand take a deep dive into the name including discussing its origins, relevance in 2026, and watch companies themselves. They also touch on if brands like Breguet and A. Lange & Sohne deserve to be considered within the trio.

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Tim and Armand were reacting to the GPHG prizes and breaking down the different categories to discuss what their personal picks would've been. They talk about brands that won or lost like Grand Seiko, Audemars Piguet, Nomos, and more. The duo then turn their attention to the new year where they give their "resolutions to the watch industry" and changes they'd like to see from case sizes to boutique experiences. Watch the full episode for all the details!

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