The SJX Podcast

On episode 56 of the SJX Podcast, SJX speaks with Anthony de Haas, A. Lange & Söhne’s longtime head of product development, about the thinking behind the brand's watches. The starting point is the new Datograph Perpetual, which takes a familiar model in an unexpected direction with a platinum bracelet and discreet diamond indices.

The conversation explores the collaborative watchmaking culture in Glashütte and why every new release should bring something different. Mr de Haas also explains how Lange retains the character of a small manufacture within Richemont — an approach that has earned it the reputation of being “the biggest independent”.

Other topics include the growing attention paid to finishing, the work required to give movements a recognisable aesthetic, and why collector enthusiasm won’t necessarily translate into more watches or more bracelets.

Show notes:

• 00:30: Developing the Datograph Perpetual’s platinum bracelet: construction, finishing, and lessons from the Odysseus
• 07:30: Demand for bracelets, then and now
• 15:55 : The “biggest independent”: preserving Lange’s character within Richemont
• 18:46: Finishing in focus: rising collector expectations and the challenges of production scale
• 32:14: Designing a recognisable movement: balancing technical requirements with visual identity

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A Cartier Cheich selling for US$3.38 million has put quartz back in the conversation, but does the huge result mean much for the broader market? On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, we discuss the appeal of unusual Cartier shapes and why Patek Philippe’s new Gondolo “Ladies First” makes a practical case for quartz at the high end.

Brandon also shares impressions from a visit to Manufacture La Joux-Perret, where solar quartz calibres account for a quarter of annual movement production. Despite the Citizen-owned manufacture’s Japanese technical foundations, these calibres are almost entirely Swiss-made, with more hands-on assembly than one might expect.

We also discuss A. Lange & Söhne’s upcoming Singapore exhibition, dedicated to chronographs and classic cars.

Show notes:

• 00:25: The record Cartier Cheich result
• 03:10: Patek Philippe Gondolo “Ladies First”
• 06:25: Inside Manufacture La Joux-Perret
• 10:30: Lessons from the American and Swiss watch industries
• 13:55: A. Lange & Söhne’s “Challenging Chronographs” exhibition in Singapore October 18-30th

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On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, SJX returns from London and Milan with impressions of two very different demonstrations of watchmaking’s biggest names at work. Rolex’s “Four Seasons” Daytona auction broke the record for the biggest charity watch auction in history, raising nearly US$50 million, but a longer run-up could arguably have pushed the result even higher.

In Milan, Patek Philippe unveiled the ref. 5978P, pairing an instantaneous perpetual calendar with its manually wound chronograph. The exhibition’s Rare Handcrafts and Italian-market limited editions also offer plenty to debate, from remarkable pocket watches to a Ferrari-red minute repeater.

Finally, we discuss highlights from Marteau & Co’s fourth online auction, which runs from October 8-15th.

Show notes:

• 00:40: Rolex’s “Four Seasons” auction: bidding momentum, logistics, and a record charity result
• 08:00: Patek Philippe’s Milan exhibition and the instantaneous perpetual calendar chronograph ref. 5978P
• 13:30: Rare Handcrafts favourites: Venice in wood marquetry and Dante in enamel
• 16:20: Milan limited editions: day-and-night World Time Minute Repeaters, colourful Calatravas, and a new Aquanaut
• 19:40: Marteau auction highlights: independent watchmaking across the price spectrum, including unique pieces by Yosuke Sekiguchi and Sylvain Pinaud

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From the Five Time Zone to the Astronomia and Bugatti, Jacob & Co. has evolved considerably over the past 20 years. On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, SJX speaks with Benjamin Arabov about the family-owned brand’s transformation and the mechanical ingenuity sometimes obscured by its celebrity clientele and gem-set watches.

The conversation explores how ideas become watches, why smaller cases have opened the door to new collectors, and what makes partnerships with Bugatti and The Godfather work.

We also discuss the origins of the brand’s celebrity following, the continued importance of retail partners, and Benjamin’s approach to building a business that can outlast its founder while preserving his creative ambition.

Show notes:

• 00:20: Family ownership and the evolution of Jacob & Co.
• 02:44: Finding a niche in unusual complications
• 04:20: Product development and the push for smaller watches
• 07:15: The evolution of the client base
• 08:20: Partnerships (Bugatti, Godfather, etc.)
• 12:07: The Five Time Zone and the origins of the celebrity following
• 15:03: The next generation, long-term direction, and retail partnerships

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With around 130 people producing just 200 watches per year, Greubel Forsey seems to have returned to its roots and abandoned plans to expand production further. On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, CEO Michel Nydegger explains why the brand’s approach to watchmaking doesn’t scale and why growth is not a priority.

Recorded just after Geneva Watch Days, the conversation covers co-founder Stephen Forsey’s departure from operations, the new Qualité Musée finishing standard, and the challenge of preserving the brand’s distinctive movement architecture in smaller watches.

We also discuss the traditional skills behind the Hand Made series, how R&D is pursued without a particular product in mind, and why (but not how) a watchmaker quietly slipped a dozen handmade hairsprings into regular production watches for unbiased real-world testing.

Show notes:

• 02:30: Michel's journey into watchmaking
• 06:36: Managing succession of a founder-led brand
• 11:30: The decision to reject expanding the business beyond ~200 pieces/year
• 14:00: The development of the Qualité Musée standard
• 16:25: The role of R&D and technical innovation at Greubel Forsey
• 22:45: Adapting the house style of architectural watchmaking to smaller watches
• 23:45: The Hand Made series, preserving traditional skills, and balancing production
• 30:00: In-house hairspring production
• 32:10: Handling bespoke and custom orders responsibly
• 34:40: Longevity and lessons from two decades of independent watchmaking
• 38:40: The future of ultra high-end watch market and the importance of intrinsic value
• 40:35: Recognition and awards in the watch industry

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Geneva Watch Days just concluded, and by most measures it was the biggest ever. Brands exhibiting topped 70 while visitors were at a record high. The event attracted “an even larger contingent of content creators” according to GWD’s organisers, underscoring the growing fashionability of watches on social media.

In total, some 400 watches were debuted at the event - but were they any good?

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Episode 50 of the SJX Podcast rounds up recent reviews, including a review of a new book about Universal Genève chronographs, and the latest updates to long-running platforms from Breguet and Patek Philippe.

The discussion also explores the intensifying competitive landscape in high-end watchmaking as big brands like Patek Philippe, Breguet, and A. Lange & Söhne close the gap with many artisanal independent brands in terms of finishing and execution.

Show notes:

• 00:30: Universal People Universal Dreams by Luca Mignini
• 03:47: Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral ref. 7255PT
• 10:10: Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 5227G

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Ahead of Geneva Watch Days, which will feature 71 (mostly independent) brands in 2026, episode 49 of the SJX Podcast looks back at how independent watchmaking became the phenomenon it is today. SJX and Brandon trace its evolution from 1970s pioneers like George Daniels and F.P. Journe through the arrival of Daniel Roth, Philippe Dufour, and Franck Muller. The conversation also examines the avant-garde boom of the 2000s, the renewed emphasis on traditional finishing, and the role of digital photography and social media in transforming what was once a solitary pursuit into a global collector community.

Listeners can sign up for the SJX Newsletter by August 12, 2026 for a chance to win a Habring² Chrono-Felix Medicus.

Show notes:

• 00:23: Habring² Chrono-Felix Medicus giveaway
• 02:25: Geneva Watch Days 2026 preview and origins
• 04:00: The pioneers of independent watchmaking
• 10:00: The 2000s wave and the influence of the Philippe Dufour Simplicity
• 12:09: Survivorship bias, changing tastes, and returning makers
• 14:03: Post-Covid independents, specialist suppliers, and social media
• 18:43: Predictions for what comes next

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As Swiss watchmakers prepare for their summer holidays, episode 48 of the SJX Podcast rounds up some of the best summer-ready watches released in the first half of 2026, spanning nearly every price category.

Show notes:

• 00:40: Kollokium Projekt 2 Variant C
• 01:34: Baltic Heures du Monde
• 02:10: Seiko Prospex Marinemaster HBF001
• 03:40: Seiko 5 Sports HUF Limited Edition
• 04:25: Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee”
• 05:56: TAG Heuer Carrera Seafarer
• 07:16: Hermès Cape Cod Titanium
• 09:15: Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ushio 300 Diver
• 10:20: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time "Cardinal Points"
• 12:15: Laurent Ferrier Sport Traveller
• 14:10: Greubel Forsey Balancier 3
• 15:48: Rolex gem-set Daytona quartet

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The return of the Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar got us thinking about other technically interesting watches that showed promise but never truly found their footing.

In episode 47 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss recent releases from Seiko, IWC, and Swatch before turning to candidates for a second chance, including the Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars AP Escapement, the TAG Heuer Monaco V4, and the elusive Breguet Hommage à Nicolas G. Hayek 7887.

Show notes:

• 00:30: Seiko Star Time for Shohei Ohtani
• 02:37: IWC ProSet Perpetual Calendar
• 07:35: Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch Mission to the Moon 1969
• 12:18: Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars AP Escapement
• 14:10: TAG Heuer Monaco V4
• 16:15: TAG Heuer high-frequency chronographs
• 18:15: Louis Vuitton Tambour Twin Chrono and Audemars Piguet Michael Schumacher Laptimer
• 20:23: Breguet Hommage à Nicolas G. Hayek ref. 7887

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In episode 46 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon and SJX examine the Swiss watch industry's June export figures, which confirm the strength of the American market and reveal the impact of the Royal Pop.

The episode also explores Rolex’s unexpected activity in clockmaking, beginning with the brand's patents for a traditional inclined-plane clock that was hiding in plain sight at Watches & Wonders. We also share impressions of the Rolex Submariner Desk Clock released late last year — a conservative-looking but impressively constructed object powered by an unusually sophisticated quartz movement.

Show notes:

• 00:35: Analysis of June data for Swiss watch exports
• 05:20: Rolex inclined-plane clock
• 09:30: Rolex Submariner Desk Clock

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The unprecedented collaboration between Swatch and Audemars Piguet that resulted in the Royal Pop dominated the product's first news cycle, but market enthusiasm seems to have cooled off, with anecdotal evidence supported by broader search trends.

On Episode 45 of the SJX Podcast, we look back at the launch, and discuss what future collaborators might do differently to avoid the same fate.

We also look at the opposite end of the market, which in some ways is only gaining momentum, with a number of multi-million-dollar results in the spring auctions.

Show notes:

• 00:30: Swatch x Audemars Piguet Royal Pop
• 02:30: Google search volume
• 05:25: F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance Souscription result at Phillips
• 10:10: F.P. Journe 'Swiss Fine Timing' edition results
• 13:41: Christie's highlights, including Patek Philippe ref. 3448G 'Red Dot' and ref. 5959R

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Episode 44 of the SJX Podcast covers new releases from Grand Seiko, Greubel Forsey, Vacheron Constantin, and Breguet. The common thread that ties these releases together is that each is an incremental update to a previous model. Grand Seiko's updates to the Evolution 9 collection are perhaps most notable simply due to the brand's larger scale, and for what this refresh indicates about how the brand is listening to collector feedback.

We also shares our condolences with the Stern family over the passing of Philippe Stern, and discuss his towering legacy.

Show notes:

• 00:30: Philippe Stern's legacy
• 06:00: Grand Seiko Evolution 9 refresh (new bracelets and UFA movements)
• 09:30: Greubel Forsey Balancier QM
• 12:50: Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar
• 15:00: Breguet Tourbillon 225th Anniversary
• 16:00: Chanel Chessboard

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This weekend, the United States marks its 250th Independence Day — it's the perfect opportunity to reflect on recent American contributions to the field of horology.

On episode 43 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss the latest entry in this field — the Liberty 250 from 1776 Atelier — and break down the claim that 90% of its components are manufactured in the US. The conversation also discusses RGM and J.N. Shapiro — brands that have contributed substantially to contemporary American watchmaking.

Finally, to look into the future we go back to school by visiting the Watch Technology Institute in Seattle — the last remaining full-time public watchmaking programme in the US capable of granting a major certification.

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Jérôme Biard is good at keeping secrets. As chief executive of Roventa-Henex — a leading white label maker of Swiss watches — he needs to be. For episode 42 of the SJX Podcast, we visited Mr Biard at the company's secretive manufacture in the sleepy Swiss village of Tavannes.

The discussion covers the emergence of the 'micro-brand' (including whether that term is still relevant), the factors facing the Swiss watch industry today, the role suppliers play in shaping trends, and what it takes to start a watch company.

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Tiffany & Co. is one of the only major jewellers without a significant watchmaking programme. Episode 41 of the SJX Podcast examines the brand's past, present, and future under the leadership of Nicolas Beau, who is credited with building Chanel's watch business into what it is today.

When it comes to watches, Tiffany & Co. is potentially a diamond in the rough — it's a uniquely American luxury brand with enviable cultural recognition. The brand also has a global boutique network giving it immediate access to all major markets, which could accelerate its trajectory with the right product mix.

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For the 40th episode of the SJX Podcast, we sat down with Rexhep Rexhepi in Geneva to learn more about his latest watch — the RRCHF Chronograph Flyback. Rexhep explains why he wanted to make a chronograph, and how the self-imposed constraint of a symmetrical layout resulted in a more refined overall construction.

He also discusses the RRCHF's in-house escapement, and the trade-offs that were considered in its development.

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The spring auction seasons gets underway in Geneva in just a few days. On episode 39 of the SJX Podcast, we look at some of the top lots that caught our attention at Phillips, Christie's Sotheby's, and Antiquorum.

Auction dates (in order):

• Phillips: May 9 & 10
• Antiquorum: May 9 & 10
• Sotheby's: May 10
• Christie's: May 11 & 12

Show notes:

• 1:00: Patek Philippe Worldtime ref. 2523
• 1:20: Akrivia AK-06
• 1:45: Charles Frodsham pocket watch for J.P. Morgan partner Thomas Lamont
• 2:55: Victor Kullberg tourbillon pocket watch
• 3:25: Paul Ditisheim tourbillon pocket watch
• 4:45: Patek Philippe dual time pocket watch with Turkish dial
• 5:53: Audemars Piguet single-button chronograph wristwatch
• 7:15: School watch from Geneva Watchmaking School
• 7:47: Patek Philippe ref. 425 for Asprey
• 8:55: Audemars Piguet observatory dial
• 9:05: Rolex Submariner white gold prototype
• 10:20: Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 3700 diamond-set
• 11:30: A. Lange & Söhne grand complication pocket watch

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During Watches & Wonders, all eyes are usually on the major brands exhibiting inside the cavernous Palexpo. Episode 38 of the SJX Podcast rounds up the highlights from the smaller fairs like Time to Watches, and the independents exhibiting on their own around town.

Among the standouts were Mathieu Cleguer, who debuted a novel escapement of his own design, Dominique Renaud who launched a high-amplitude 1 Hz balance, and Franc Vila, who seems to be entering a new era of creativity.

Show notes:

• 1:12: Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing Mystery
• 2:45: Anton Suhanov Flamingo
• 4:20: Dominique Renaud Pulse 60
• 7:20: Cleguer Horology Inspiration One
• 9:15: Niton Prima
• 12:00: Franc Vila FVF2
• 14:30: Sylvain Pinaud Tourbillon
• 15:00: Marco Lang Seven Spheres

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Episode 37 of the SJX Podcast recaps the biggest releases from the brands officially exhibiting at Watches & Wonders 2026. Highlights from the independent brands exhibiting around town will be covered in our next episode.

Show notes:

• 0:55: Rolex Daytona Rolesium Enamel Dial ref. 126502
• 3:15: Rolex Yacht-Master II
• 5:00: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 'Jubilee' Dial
• 8:30: Patek Philippe Celestial ref. 6105G
• 12:00: Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5610P 50th Anniversary
• 12:30: Patek Philippe Automaton ref. 5249
• 13:30: Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar "Lumen"
• 14:50: Lange Saxonia Annual Calendar
• 15:50: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin ref. 2500V
• 16:50: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual-Time Cardinal Points
• 19:11: Tudor Black Bay Ceramic
• 19:40: Tudor Monarch
• 21:00: TAG Heuer Evergraph
• 25:00: Cartier Crash Platinum
• 26:20: Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ushio 300 Diver SLGB025 and SLGB023
• 28:00: Ressence Type 11
• 29:30: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieux

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